Chapel Porth Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab a seat. Rusty here, and I’ve been staring at the charts for our little corner of the world. It’s a mixed bag, but there’s a glimmer of something special way out there if you’ve got patience.

The forecast starts off promising on Saturday, 22 August, but it’s a short-lived tease. The real action is a long way off. We’ve got a bit of a dry spell for the rest of the week and into the next, so don’t get your hopes up for daily sessions. The standout is definitely going to be the big pulse arriving around the 2nd of September, but it’s a beast that needs respecting.

For the immediate future, Saturday morning at Chapel Porth is the only game in town. We’re looking at a clean 2 ft swell from the west, with a nice 10-second period. The wind is light and cross-off from the ENE, so it’ll be tidy. The wave energy is moderate (126), and while it’s not massive, it’s the most surfable we’ve got. Water temps are about average for this time of year.

Saturday afternoon and all of Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday are a write-off. The swell drops, and the periods are short and weak. The wind is okay, but there just isn't enough push. You’d be better off doing something else. The conditions are described as "poor surf conditions" across the board, so I’d give it a miss.

The mid-week shows a bit of a rise, but it comes with problems. Wednesday, 26 August, sees a 3 ft to 4 ft swell from the south, but the period is a short 7 seconds, and the wind is cross-off. The wave energy is moderate (118-179), but the models are calling it "poor surf conditions." There’s a risk of thunderstorms, too, so it’s not looking worth the effort.

Thursday, 27 August, is where it starts to get interesting, but also messy. The swell jumps to 10 ft from the west, with a very strong energy reading (1326). The problem? The wind is cross-on from the WSW, making it choppy. That’s expert territory only, and even then, it’s not going to be pretty. The period is a short 8 seconds, so it’ll be a bit of a washing machine. This is a big swell, but the quality is poor.

We then hit a dead zone from Friday, 28 August, right through to Monday, 1 September. The swell is all over the place, but the wind is consistently cross-on or onshore, and the readings are all "poor surf conditions." Just a lot of chop and no real shape. There’s a small window on Sunday, 30 August, with a 4 ft swell and clean cross-off wind, but the energy is low (286) and the models are calling it "marginal." It’s a maybe, but I wouldn’t pin your hopes on it.

Now, for the real standout. Mark your calendars for Wednesday, 2 September. This is the one that’s got my heart racing, but we need to be smart. The morning shows a 10 ft groundswell from the WSW, with a 10-second period and a very strong energy (1601). The wind is light and cross-off from the south, so it’ll be clean. The models are calling it "marginal," but that’s likely due to the size. This is a big, powerful swell.

By the afternoon, it’s a different story. The swell is predicted to be a massive 12 ft from the same direction, with a longer 11-second period. The energy is off the charts (2410), and the wind is still cross-off. The models are stating that the swell is "too big for this break." This is a genuine beast. For experts only. If you’re a beginner, stay well away. If you’re a seasoned charger, you’ll be in for a proper session, but you need to know the break and the tides. This is the clear winner of the whole outlook.

Thursday, 3 September, is still holding onto the same 12 ft swell, but the wind swings around to the west and then to the southwest, bringing in a cross-shore chop. The energy is still huge (2983), but the quality drops. By the afternoon, it’s a strong breeze from the SW making it a mess. That’s a kite-surf session, not a paddle session.

The last few days into the 5th and 6th of September see the swell dropping back down, but the wind is mostly cross-on or onshore, so it’s back to the poor conditions. There’s no real recovery after that big pulse.

So, to wrap it up: don’t bother with the first week unless you’re desperate for a tiny, clean wave on Saturday morning. The real score is the massive groundswell on the 2nd and 3rd of September. Wednesday morning, 2nd September, is your best bet if you’re a solid intermediate. The afternoon is for experts only. After that, it’s back to the drawing board.

Stay safe out there.
Rusty.

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