Boneyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab your board and let’s talk about what’s ahead. The next couple of weeks are a mixed bag, but there’s definitely some fire in the water if you know where to look.

First up, the water temp is sitting at 59°F, which is a solid 7°F colder than normal for this time of year. That’s not just a little chilly, that’s a proper winter suit and booties kind of deal. You’ll feel that bite on your face when you’re out there.

We’re looking at a window that starts with a bit of a lull, but then it ramps up hard. The first real call is for Tuesday the 4th, with a clean 4ft SW swell, 11-second period, and light cross-off winds. Energy is moderate at 773, and it’s looking super clean. That’s a nice warm-up.

Wednesday the 5th starts off with a smaller, but longer period swell—3ft at 15 seconds from the SSW. Light winds, clean conditions. It’s a bit small, but the long period means it’ll have some push. The afternoon kicks up to 6ft SW with a 16-second period, but the winds go a bit cross and the energy jumps to 1758. It’ll be a bit more challenging, but still fun.

Then things get serious. Thursday the 6th we see 12ft of SW swell, 13-second period, and a jump in energy to 5062 in the morning. It’s a solid, powerful groundswell. The wind is offshore, so it’s going to be big and clean. This is expert territory, not for the faint of heart. The afternoon holds at 12ft with a little less energy but still all-time conditions.

Friday the 7th is a standout. The morning is glassy, zero wind, with a solid 10ft SW swell at 12 seconds. Energy is 2396. This is as clean as it gets for a big swell. The afternoon gets a bit cross, but the morning is pure magic.

Saturday the 8th is another one to circle. 10ft SW at 14 seconds, with light offshore winds and glassy conditions in the morning. Energy is 3193. This is prime, high-quality surf. The afternoon backs off a touch to 8ft, but it’s still got plenty of punch.

Sunday the 9th is where it gets wild. The swell jumps to 15ft SW with a 13-second period, and the energy is massive at 6817. But the wind is howling at 25-28 mph from the WSW. It’s going to be a washing machine out there. Big, powerful, but messy. This is a day for the tow crew or the kitesurfers, not for a casual paddle.

Monday the 10th is a write-off. The swell is still 10ft, but the wind swings onshore from the SSE, and it’s lumpy. The energy drops, and the conditions are just poor. Best to stay on the beach.

We get a bit of a breather from Tuesday the 11th through the middle of the week. Swell drops, winds are onshore, and it’s just not great. The 12th has some long-period swell (20 seconds) but it’s small and won’t be breaking well.

Then we get a sneak peek of the next pulse. Thursday the 13th, the morning is glassy with 5ft of SW swell at 16 seconds. That’s a nice, clean, long-period wave. The afternoon is a bit more onshore, but the morning is worth a look.

The following weekend, the 15th, has another glassy morning with 5ft SW at 12 seconds. It’s a nice, clean, smaller day. The 16th is tiny, just 2ft, and the energy is weak. Not worth paddling out.

Then the big one shows up on the horizon. Monday the 17th we see a jump back to 12ft SW, but the winds are onshore. It’s a wall of water but not clean. The 18th is similar, big and cross. The 19th is the real standout for the second week. The swell is 15ft SW with a 14-second period, and the energy is a massive 8108. The wind is cross-offshore. It’s shaping up to be huge and powerful. This is a promise, but it’s a week out, so keep an eye on it.

The best of the best is that Friday the 7th morning, and then that Saturday the 8th morning. Glassy, big, and clean. That’s the window you want. The 19th is a long-range promise of something special, but it’s a wait-and-see.

The water’s cold, the waves are coming, and when it’s on, it’s on. Be smart, be safe, and get some.

Rusty

Read more