Shipwrecks Bay-Peaks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. We’ve got one spot on the menu for the next 16 days, and it’s a ripper for those who can handle it.

The big picture is a solid run of groundswell, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. This is a reef set-up, and it’s going to be offering up some serious, powerful waves over the next week or so. The water temp is about average for this time of year, so a good 3/2 will be your friend.

The standout is Friday the 11th morning. We’re looking at a massive 18 ft SW swell, with a very long period of 19 seconds, and the combined energy is off the charts at 21077. That is a *lot* of power in the water. The wind is a fresh offshore from the SSW, keeping it clean. This is for advanced surfers only – anything over 8 ft is expert territory, and this is more than double that. The sets will be huge, long, and heavy. This is a true big-wave day.

Friday afternoon holds similar size at 18 ft, but the period drops to 18 seconds, and the wind goes cross-offshore. Still very clean, still massive.

The swell eases a touch over the weekend, but stays in the 15 ft to 16 ft range with periods around 16-17 seconds, and the wind stays cross-offshore. The combined energy is still in the very strong range (over 11000). Saturday and Sunday are still big, powerful days for the experienced crew.

Monday the 14th is a notable drop in size to 11 ft, but the wind goes light and offshore in the morning, and the period drops to 16 seconds. The energy drops to 6388, which is still a healthy punch. The surf report says it’s excellent for experienced surfers, and it’ll be a lot more manageable than the weekend.

Tuesday the 15th drops further to 8 ft with a 14-second period and light offshore winds. Getting into more manageable territory for strong intermediates, but still a reef.

Wednesday the 16th is a write-off. The wind goes cross-onshore, the swell is small and messy, and the energy is weak. It’s a choppy, ugly day.

The following week looks promising, but with more variable winds. Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th see a spike back up to 13 ft-15 ft with strong breezes, but the wind is cross-offshore, keeping it clean. The energy jumps back up to over 8000.

Saturday the 19th sees the wind go cross-shore, which will introduce some chop. Still a solid 11 ft-13 ft of swell.

Sunday the 20th looks like another solid day with a 16 ft SW swell and a moderate cross-offshore breeze. Worth a look.

The middle of the next week, Monday the 22nd, has a small window of total glass. On Tuesday the 22nd morning, the wind is flat calm from the ENE, and the swell is 7 ft with a 12-second period. Combined energy is low at 1181, but that glassy surface will make those small, clean reef waves a joy for the right board.

The last few days of the outlook, from the 23rd to the 26th, look choppy with cross-onshore winds and dropping swell. The 25th of September sees a brief turn to a moderate offshore from the SSE with a 6 ft swell, but it’s far out and the energy is low.

So, to sum it up: the first week is for big-wave chargers only. The real highlight is Friday the 11th morning for the sheer size and power. If you’re not in that league, wait for the cleaner, smaller days around Monday the 14th or Tuesday the 15th, and keep an eye on that glassy morning on the 22nd.

Rusty, signing off.

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