Heavens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s have a look at what’s cooking for the next couple of weeks.

Alright, let’s be straight with you – the next 16 days are a bit of a mixed bag, and honestly, the surf is nothing to write home about for most of it. The overall pattern is pretty weak, with only a couple of moments that might get your heart rate up. After a quiet start, there’s a real gap of several days with nothing worth paddling out for, so don’t get your hopes up too high.

The first real chance of a wave comes on Monday, the 7th of September. It’s not a classic, but it’s the best we’ve got early on. Monday morning at Heavens sees a 5ft swell from the south, with a period of 13 seconds. That’s a nice, long-period groundswell, which will bring some proper energy. The combined swell energy is a solid 897 (moderate to strong). The wind is a light cross-shore from the WNW at 6 mph, which will keep things reasonably clean, though there’s a bit of a cross-chop. The water temperature is 72°, which is a whopping 7° warmer than usual – that’s very unusual for this time of year, so you’ll be surfing in a warm bath. It’s a beginner-friendly break and very consistent, but it does get crowded sometimes. The 5ft swell is a good size for intermediates, but not too big for the learner crew. Monday afternoon is a write-off with a stronger cross-shore and a drop in score.

Tuesday is a step down. The swell drops to 3ft, and the energy is way down to 443. The morning has light cross-shore wind, but it’s marginal. Tuesday afternoon cleans up a bit with a cross-offshore breeze, but the swell is only 3ft. Not great.

Wednesday and Thursday are small and weak, with swells around 2ft to 3ft. The period is long (16-17 seconds), but there’s just not enough height to do anything with it. The energy is low (292 to 478). The winds are light, but mostly cross-onshore, so it’s not clean.

Then we hit a real dead zone. From Friday, the 11th of September, through to the end of the second week, it’s pretty grim. The swell drops to 1ft to 2ft, and the energy numbers are all in the low hundreds (111 to 335). The waves are just too small and weak. There is one tiny glimmer on Friday, the 11th, when the wind goes glassy in the afternoon and the swell is 2ft from the SW with a 15-second period. That’s a clean, glassy window, but it’s a very small wave. The score is only a 2 out of 10, but for a dedicated soul on a longboard, it might be the only rideable moment in a week of flatness.

The standout, if you can call it that, is that Monday morning (7th September) session. It’s the biggest swell, the most energy, and the water is insane warm. The rest of the period is a write-off. For a few days from the 14th to the 20th, the swell is consistently under 2ft. It’s a real blank run. For this area, that’s pretty normal for a quiet spell.

So, if you’re desperate, get out on Monday morning the 7th. After that, forget it until the very end of the forecast, but even then, it’s not looking promising. Forecasts can change, but right now, it’s a time to wax the board and wait.

Rusty.

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