Heavens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surfers, Rusty here. Let’s chew on what’s coming for the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a small window, but it ain’t gonna be a classic. You gotta be realistic. The surf is gonna be small and a bit tricky, but for the patient soul, there’s a chance to get wet.

The standout, and really the only proper shout, is Heavens. It’s a beginner-friendly spot that’s very consistent. The water is a wild 72°F which is much warmer than normal for this time of year, so you’ll be comfortable in a thin suit or even a springy.

Tuesday morning, the 8th of September, is your best bet of the whole run. We’ve got a 3ft swell from the SSW, with a period of 11 seconds. The combined swell energy is moderate at 463. The wind is light from the W, just a light cross-shore breeze. It’s not perfect, but it’s the best we’ll see. It’s marginal, so manage your expectations, but you might find a few fun little lines.

The rest of the forecast is a bit of a grind. Wednesday morning the 9th drops to 2ft from the SW with a very long 16-second period, but the wind is a gentle cross-shore, making it clean. Still, the energy is weak (296). The afternoon picks up a little with a cross-off wind, which is a nice touch, but still small.

Thursday the 10th is a similar story – 3ft from the SW but with a cross-on wind. The wind stays in the cross-on or cross-shore direction for most of the run, which just mucks up the surface. There’s a brief window on the 14th of September (Monday afternoon) where a 3ft W swell with a short 9-second period pops up, but it’s a wind swell and bumpy.

From the 15th onwards, it’s a real struggle. The swell is tiny, mostly under 3ft, and the wind is often onshore or cross-on. The energy is low, and the conditions are described as poor. A few mornings later in the run, like the 20th and 21st, have a touch more size (2-3ft) and some long-period energy, but the wind is straight onshore, which just kills it for a point like Heavens.

So, the honest truth is: Tuesday morning is your only real chance. After that, you’re looking at a long stretch of small, messy surf. It’s not a blank run of zero swell, but it’s a blank run of good conditions. The swell is there, but the wind is just not playing ball. Keep an eye on it, things can change, but for now, don’t get your hopes up for anything epic.

Rusty.

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