Heavens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. We’ve got a bit of a mixed bag coming up here at Heavens. It’s a very consistent, exposed beginner spot that usually likes a solid SW groundswell, but for the next week or so, it’s going to be a real struggle to find anything worth paddling out for.

Right now, into Friday the 14th, we’ve got a small 2ft SSW groundswell rolling in with a super long 18-second period. Sounds good on paper, but the cross-on wind out of the west at 9 mph is messing it up, making it choppy. The combined swell energy is moderate at 509, but the conditions are just poor. The water temp is a whopping 72°F, which is over 7°F warmer than usual for this time of year—very unusual.

Saturday the 15th and Sunday the 16th see the swell bumping up just a touch to 3-3ft, still from the SSW with a 16-second period. But the wind is all over the place—cross, cross-on, onshore. It’s going to be marginal at best, with a lot of chop and wind ripples. The energy stays moderate, between 303 and 504, but don’t get your hopes up. The best of a bad lot might be Saturday morning with an onshore wind, but it’s still only a 1 out of 10 scenario.

From Monday the 17th through to the end of the first week, the bottom drops out. Swell drops to 1-2ft, with that period shortening to 13-15 seconds. The wind is mostly cross or cross-on, and the energy readings (127 to 232) are weak. This stretch is essentially flat and poor. Not worth a look.

Now, the long range is where things get interesting, but you gotta be patient. Around Tuesday the 25th and Wednesday the 26th, a proper pulse of SSW-S swell arrives. Heights jump to 5-5ft with a period around 14-16 seconds. That’s right in the beginner zone but getting a bit big for the real groms. The combined energy rockets up to over 1000 (1069 on Tuesday morning, 1293 Tuesday afternoon)—that’s strong wave energy. But here’s the catch: the wind is still cross-on or light and variable. Tuesday afternoon looks like the standout with a light cross-shore and some clouds, giving it a 3 out of 10.

This longer-period groundswell, over 15 seconds, is great for the reef and point breaks, but Heavens is exposed, so it might feel a bit straight and fat. Still, if the wind plays nice and stays light, that Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday could be the only real surfable windows in the whole 16-day stretch. The water will still be way warmer than normal.

So, the best advice? Sit tight for that ramp-up around August 25th and 26th. Everything before that is pretty grim. The consistency here is usually solid, so this dry spell feels a bit unusual, but the forecasts can change, so keep an eye on it.

Rusty.

Read more