Heavens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’ve been staring at the charts for Heavens. Let’s break it down, just for you.

Honestly, the next week or so is a bit of a grind. We’ve got small swell and a lot of cross-onshore winds making things lumpy. The water temperature is a staggering 73°F, which is about 9°F warmer than usual for this time of year – that’s seriously weird, we’re in a bath.

The first couple of days, Tuesday the 15th through to the weekend, are looking pretty poor. Swell is tiny, around 1ft to 2ft from the SW, with very long periods of 16-19 seconds. You’d think that long period groundswell would be magic, but with the wind all over the place and a score that’s a zero, it’s not worth paddling out. The combined energy is weak to moderate (187 – 339 range). Not much to get excited about.

Sunday the 20th afternoon sees the energy pick up a little to a moderate 442, with the swell hitting 3ft from the SW (18 sec period), but the wind is a moderate cross-shore WNW breeze at 12 mph, and the surf quality is still marked as poor. It’s messy.

We stay in that low-energy, marginal zone right through to the end of September. The best you’ll find most days are those “marginal” tags, which means you might get a few knee-high rollers on the right tide, but nothing with any power.

Now, there is a glimmer at the very end of the run. On Monday morning, the 28th of September, we get a tiny shift. Swell is 2ft from the S with a 14-second period, but the wind goes light off the land from the ENE at 3 mph with a score of 2/10. That’s “clean” conditions. A morning session could be glassy, but the swell is tiny.

The standout, if you can call it that, is the following morning: Tuesday the 29th of September. The forecast shows 2ft of SSW groundswell (12 second period), but the wind is glassy – 3 mph from the SW. That is a flat, clean window. The wave energy is a moderate 305. It’s a beginner-friendly spot anyway, and with those conditions, it’s as good as it’s going to get. The waves will be small and clean, perfect for a longboard or a foamie, and it’s very consistent here at Heavens. Crowds are possible sometimes, so you won’t be alone if you get there.

By Wednesday the 30th, the swell picks up to 3-3ft from the SSE with a shorter period (15-16 sec), hitting an energy of 422 to 588 (moderate to strong), but the wind is back to a cross-shore breeze. It’ll be a bit more powerful but not as clean.

So, for the whole 16-day look, the best bet is that Tuesday morning glass-off on the 29th of September. It’s not a big swell, but it’s clean, and it’s got the best wind of the whole run. Any other day this week, you’re better off checking the tide and just having a swim.

Stay frothy,
Rusty

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