Heavens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at the forecast for our local stretch.

The water is sitting at 71°F which is a full 6°F warmer than normal for this time of year. That’s very unusual, and it’ll feel like a bath when you first get in.

Right now, though, there’s nothing doing. The first week and a half is a real struggle. From Tuesday afternoon, August 18th, right through to the end of August, the surf is tiny and mostly junk. We’re looking at weak, long-period groundswells from the SSW, but the heights are barely scraping 2ft to 3ft and the winds are just so wrong. Mostly cross-shore breezes from the WNW at 12 mph to 15 mph, or light cross-onshore stuff, and it’s leaving the ocean with a chop or a cross-chop. The wave energy is weak, sitting between 119 and 289 (weak to low-moderate). There’s nothing worth paddling out for. The swell is hanging around, but the quality just isn’t there.

There is a bit of a glimmer on the morning of Friday, August 28th. The swell picks up a little, 2ft from the SSW with a long period of 17 seconds, and the wind is light and onshore from the SSW at 6 mph. The energy is climbing to 304 (moderate). It’s still marginal, but there’s a moment of hope. Then the afternoon of Friday the 28th sees the energy jump to 412, still with 2ft swell and a 19-second period. The wind is a gentle cross-shore from the W at 9 mph. That’s the best condition we’ve seen, but it’s still only a marginal call.

The real standout, and the only one I’d call a true highlight, is the morning of Saturday, August 29th. The swell is 3ft from the SSW with a period of 17 seconds, and the energy is up to 496 (strong). The wind is light from the SW at 6 mph, making it a light cross-onshore, which will keep it reasonably clean. The water is still that warm anomaly. For a beginner spot like Heavens, that’s about as good as it gets in this window. It’s very consistent, so you won’t be waiting long. Expect some company, though, as it does get crowded sometimes.

The afternoon of the 29th keeps the swell at 3ft from the SSW, still with good energy at 523 (strong), but the wind switches to a cross-shore from the WNW at 9 mph, which will put a bit of a bump on it. Sunday the 30th morning is another similar window, with a 3ft SSW swell and a light cross-onshore breeze, but the energy drops a little.

After that, it fades again. The first of September sees a blip of 5ft from the west with a super short period of 6 seconds, which is just junky, weak windswell. Not worth it.

So, bottom line: tough start. The only real chance to get a decent, clean wave is on the morning of Saturday, August 29th, and maybe the morning of Sunday the 30th. The second week is a bit of a tease, but that Saturday morning is the one to circle.

Rusty.

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