Indicator Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here again. Let’s break down the same stretch of coast in feet and miles per hour for you.

We’re looking at a reef and point spot that works best for intermediate surfers, picking up swell from the northwest. The water is about 72°F right now, which is running much warmer than normal for this time of year – about 6°F above average, so you’ll be fine in boardshorts or a spring suit.

The first week is a real bummer. From the 6th through the 10th of September, it’s mostly flat and messy. The swell is tiny, often under 2ft, and the wind is all over the place – cross-on, cross-off, you name it. The combined energy is weak, mostly under 100 (35). Not worth paddling out.

Things get a little better from the 11th. Friday morning the 11th has a clean offshore wind from the SE, with a 2ft swell from the west. Energy is still low (45), but it’s clean. That afternoon, the swell picks up to 2ft from the SW with a 15-second period, and the energy hits 193 (moderate). The wind is light and cross-off, so it’s clean but still just ordinary. Saturday the 12th morning is similar – 2ft from the SW, 14-second period, clean offshore SE wind, and moderate energy (155). Surfable, but nothing special.

The one to save for is Monday the 21st of September. Monday morning is glassy. The wind is from the SSW at just 3 mph, dead calm. The swell is 3ft from the SW with a long 17-second period, and the energy is a solid 370 (moderate). That’s a proper groundswell wrapping into a reef and point. The water will still be warm, and the crowds? This spot gets crowded sometimes, so with glassy conditions like that, you’ll have company. But it’s the best session of the whole 16-day window. The afternoon gets blown out with a cross-on, so get out there early.

The week before that, from the 14th to the 20th, there are a few clean mornings with small swell (1ft to 3ft) and moderate energy, but the wind is often cross or cross-on. The 14th afternoon has a 4ft swell from the west with 346 energy, but it’s cross-shore and only marginal. The 20th Sunday afternoon has a 3ft swell and 427 energy, but it’s cross-on and choppy. Nothing beats that Monday morning glass.

For beginners, that 3ft swell on the 21st is perfect. It never gets over 5ft in the whole run, so it’s manageable for most. The long period means longer lulls between sets, but cleaner, more powerful waves. Just watch out for the crowd.

Get your board ready for Monday the 21st of September, first light. That’s the call.

Rusty.

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