Indicator Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's coming our way for this stretch.

Honestly, for the first few days, it’s a bit of a flat spell. Wednesday the 16th and Thursday the 17th offer next to nothing – the wave heights are barely a whisper at 1 foot to 1 feet, and the energy is weak. You’re looking at a real slow start. There’s a gap of a couple days where it’s not even worth paddling out.

We finally see a pulse of energy arriving Friday morning the 18th. Swell pushes up to 2 feet from the SW, with the period stretching out to a very long 19 seconds. This is proper groundswell, but it’s small. The combined energy is moderate at (198). The wind is light and cross-off from the S, so the waves will be clean. This is a classic reef and point setup, which is a good thing because that long period tends to make beach breaks do nothing. It’s surfable, but just barely worth the wax.

Saturday the 19th is much the same story: 2 feet of SW swell with that long 18-second period. The morning is clean again with that light S wind (213 energy). It’s still a very ordinary wave – not a standout, but it’s the best we’ve got so far. Crowds are likely, though.

Here’s your true standout: Eyes on Sunday morning, September 20th. The swell holds at 2 feet from the SW, period still holding at a very long 18 seconds. The combined energy is solid at (283). The key is the wind: light SSE at 6 mph, giving us cross-off conditions. Expect good surf conditions. This is the cleanest, most contestable window of the whole run for this break. For a reef and point, that long period will wrap in nicely and give you some shape.

Monday the 21st morning is also promising. We get 3 feet of SW swell, a 17-second period, and the wind goes pure offshore from the SE at 9 mph. The combined energy jumps to (388). That’s a real chance for a proper, drivable wave. It’s a little more size than Sunday, but still very manageable.

After that, the trend is downhill. The second week fades back into the doldrums. Tuesday the 22nd through to the end of the month sees the swell drop to 1 foot to 2 feet, the period shortens, the wind turns onshore or cross-shore, and the scores drop right off. You get a quick moment on Tuesday the 29th morning with glassy conditions and a bit of energy (189), but the swell is only 1 feet, so it’s a stretch.

Overall, your best calls are Sunday September 20th and Monday September 21st mornings. The water is sitting at a balmy 73°F, which is much warmer than normal for this time of year – with a 8°F anomaly, that’s a very unusual warmth, so you can ditch the wetsuit.

Stay stoked,
Rusty.

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