Exiles Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here.

Alright, look, the next couple of weeks are going to test your patience if you’re chasing waves around Exiles. It’s a classic setup, a point break that needs a good SW swell and some cooperation from the wind, and frankly, we’re not getting a whole lot of either for a while.

The early part of the run is pretty grim. Sunday afternoon kicks things off with some tiny 1ft mush and light rain, not even worth looking at. That’s the start of a real dry spell. We’re looking at a few days of onshore and cross-onshore winds chopping up an already small, short-period swell. There’s nothing surfable on Monday or Tuesday, with the swell staying under 3ft and the wind killing any chance of it cleaning up. It’s a flat, lumpy pool out there.

We finally get a bit of a breather on Wednesday morning, the 9th. The wind swings around to a light cross-offshore, and while it’s only 1ft, the period jumps to a very long 19 seconds. This makes it clean, but just too small to be any real fun. Thursday morning, the 10th, is the same story; it’s clean and glassy with a 2ft SW groundswell, and it’s the first time it feels like the ocean has a pulse, but the energy is still weak (346). It’s a dribbler, not a day to get excited about.

The standout of this whole window, if you can call it that, looks like Friday morning, the 11th. We get a proper offshore wind, that’s the good news. The swell is still small at 2ft, but it’s from the SW with a solid 16-second period. The energy is moderate (290), and with that clean offshore breeze, it should offer the best shaped, most rideable waves on offer. It won’t be big by any stretch, but it’ll be clean. It’ll be your best chance to get a few without battling whitecaps.

After that, it’s a long, tedious grind. The rest of the second week and into the third is a constant battle with small swells, cross-shore breezes, and onshores. Saturday the 12th has a bit of a pulse in the morning with a gentle offshore, but it’s weak. Then it pretty much goes flat and messy. We get stuck in a rut of 1ft to 2ft slop for days on end. The swell direction holds from the SW, but the periods are all over the place, and the winds just can’t get it together. There are windows on the 16th, 17th, and 18th where light winds make it clean, but with only ankle-biters on tap, it’s not worth the paddle.

There is one final glimmer on the horizon. The morning of Monday, the 21st of September. We see the wind go light and variable, turning cross-offshore, and the swell bumps up to 3ft with a 17-second period. The energy is strong, over 500, and it should be clean and glassy. It’s a promising way to end the run, but it’s a long way out, so keep the expectations in check.

Throughout all this, the water temp is running well above average for the time of year. At 72°, it’s a good 6° warmer than usual, so you’ll be in a shorty or maybe even just boardshorts if you’re keen.

This spot is inconsistent, and this forecast shows exactly why. If it’s small and clean, it’s a longboard, fun-waves kind of spot. But for the most part, you’re going to be staring at a lot of nothing. If you’re desperate, Friday the 11th is your morning. Otherwise, keep an eye on that Monday the 21st.

Rusty, signing off.

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