Swansea Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the menu for the next couple of weeks.

We’re looking at a pretty slow start here. The first real surf worth talking about doesn’t show up until Thursday the 6th, and it’s nothing to write home about. We’ll see a few days of small, weak waves before things finally start to get interesting around the second week.

Thursday morning, August 6th is the first chance for a paddle. The swell is a tiny 1 ft from the south, with a period of 10 seconds. The combined energy is weak (44). The wind is a light cross-off from the northwest at 3 mph, which keeps it clean. Water temp is 64°, which is pretty normal for this time of year. It’s surfable, but very ordinary.

Friday morning, August 7th is a bit more of the same. A clean 2 ft from the SSE in the morning with light offshore winds from the WNW at 3 mph. The energy is still low (128). These are small, gutless waves.

Saturday morning, August 8th is a highlight within this flat spell. The swell is still only 2 ft from the south, but the wind goes totally glassy – calm wind, 0 mph. It’s a beautiful morning for the log, but you’ll be hunting for any little bump. Energy is very weak (83).

Sunday morning, August 9th sees a bump in size to 4 ft from the ENE, with a period of 9 seconds. The energy is moderate (194). The wind is a cross-shore from the north at 9 mph, which makes it a bit bumpy. Not great.

Monday morning, August 10th is a write-off. Strong 22 mph cross-offshore winds from the WNW make for clean but blown-out conditions on a 4 ft ENE swell. The energy is building (258), but the wind is just too strong for a good paddle.

Tuesday morning, August 11th brings a cleaner setup. We have a 4 ft south swell with a 10-second period and a cross-offshore wind from the NW at 12 mph. The energy is moderate (346). It’s a marginal session, but the cleanest we’ve seen in a while.

Wednesday morning, August 12th is similar, with a 3 ft south swell and clean cross-offshore winds, but it’s still just ordinary.

Now, Thursday, August 13th things get a bit more serious. The morning shows a 6 ft swell from the southwest with an 8-second period, but the wind is a cross-offshore from the SW at 12 mph. The energy is strong (471). The afternoon gets bigger, 7 ft from the SSW, but the wind switches to a cross-shore from the south, creating a cross-chop. This is getting into the realm of more powerful, but messy, surf.

And then, Friday morning, August 14th is the standout. This is the one to circle. We’ve got a solid 10 ft swell from the south with a 10-second period. The energy is very strong (3343). The wind is a light offshore from the WNW at 6 mph, which will result in absolutely clean, peeling waves. However, at 10 ft, this is a big drop for most. This is expert territory only. For the experienced crew, this is the best opportunity of the whole forecast.

Saturday morning, August 15th is a good follow-up. The swell drops to a much more manageable 5 ft from the SSE. The wind is a clean cross-offshore from the WNW at 9 mph. The energy is moderate (420). This is great for a wide range of surfers.

After that, the swell hangs around in the 4 ft to 6 ft range for a few days, but the winds are messy. Sunday, August 16th has strong 16-19 mph cross-offshore winds from the SSW that will make it tough. Monday, August 17th is smaller and choppy.

The last few days of the window, from Tuesday, August 18th onwards, we fade back into small, weak surf again. The best of the whole run is without a doubt the Friday morning, August 14th session for the experts, and the Saturday morning, August 15th for everyone else.

Rusty.

Read more