Backdoor 4 Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, and I’m sizing up the local surf. Truth is, the first week and a half is a total bust. We’re looking at a long dry spell before things finally wake up.

Water temp is about 64°, which is pretty normal for late summer.

From Tuesday the 4th through the middle of the month, the surf is almost non-existent. Swell heights are under 3ft, with wave energy reading in the double digits, like 35 and 39, which is flat-out weak. The wind is a mess, switching from cross to cross-off, and even some strong breezes, but with no swell, it doesn’t matter. That’s a solid week-plus of nothing.

Then we get a dramatic spike. Around Thursday the 13th, the charts show a huge south swell hitting 13ft with a period of 11 seconds. The energy reading jumps to 4057, which is a massive amount of power. But here’s the thing: that’s way too big for Backdoor 4. It’s a shallow reef, and that much south swell will make it dangerous and unsurfable for most. The wind is good, but it’s a no-go unless you’re a pro with a death wish. The same goes for Friday the 14th, with 10ft and 8ft days. Experts only.

The one clear standout is Sunday the 16th. The morning shows a 6ft swell from the SE, 9-second period, with a solid offshore wind from the south at 12 mph. That’s clean, lined up, and fun. The energy is 506, which is a solid moderate level. The swell direction is perfect for the break. The afternoon drops to 5ft but stays offshore. This is the best window. Since it’s a very consistent reef, expect crowds, so plan your paddle out.

The following Monday the 17th and Tuesday the 18th keep some decent swell around – 6ft to 6ft from the ESE – but the wind gets a bit shiftier, and the periods are less consistent. The Tuesday afternoon session with a clean cross-off wind and a 6ft SE swell (599 energy) is a good backup option.

So, it’s a long wait for a short window, but that Sunday the 16th is the day to make it happen.

Rusty.

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