Backdoor 4 Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here, lookin' at what's on the cards for us right through to mid-September.

Straight off the bat, it's a painful start. For the first few days, the ocean is just flat and nothin'. We're talkin' Tuesday through to Thursday with barely a ripple, let alone a wave. The energy is weak (72 to 154 on the meter) and the conditions are poor. It's a rough, empty spell. But hold on, because the weekend is where the story changes.

Friday the 4th is the first glimmer. The energy jumps to a moderate 291 combined energy units. The wind goes glassy in the morning, and we get a clean 4ft swell from the south with an 11-second period. It’s not huge, but after the drought, that’s a solid start.

Now, the standout of the whole run is Sunday, the 6th of September. This is the one to circle. Backdoor 4 (that reef break we all know) will be firing first thing. We’re lookin' at a clean 5ft S swell, with a nice 12-second period and a light offshore wind from the southeast cleaning it right up. The wave energy is strong at 575 combined units – that's proper power. For intermediate surfers, that’s about as good as it gets for the whole outlook. The water temp is about 65°F, pretty bang on average for this time of year, so just a spring suit.

Later on Saturday the 12th and into Sunday the 13th, we get another pulse. Saturday morning brings a clean 6ft swell from the SSE with a light offshore wind. The energy is moderate at 597, but the 9-second period is a little short, so it’s not as well-shaped as the earlier swell. Then Sunday the 13th morning is even better: a 4ft SE swell, clean conditions, and a better 10-second period.

Through the second week, the big news is the swell on the 10th and 11th. That south swell pumps up to 16ft on Friday the 11th with an incredible 13-second period, and the energy readings go crazy – over 16,000! But here’s the thing – it’s simply too big for the break. 12ft plus is strictly for experts only, and even that might be pushing it. The wind is offshore and clean, but it’s a beast. The 9th of September also sees strong, howling offshore winds at 25 mph, making it hard to even get out there.

For the last days, the 14th to the 16th, the swell fades back down to 3ft or less. The energy drops off (as low as 77 combined units), and while there are a few glassy mornings, the waves are small and won't hold your attention.

The absolute best on offer: That Sunday, the 6th of September. Clean, punchy, and just the right size for a good session.

Rusty.

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