Backdoor 4 Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s chew the fat on what’s shaping up.

Alright, so we’ve got Backdoor 4 on the radar. This is a reef setup, pretty exposed to the south, so it catches a lot of what’s out there. To kick things off, the water temp is sitting at about 66°, which is pretty much what you’d expect for this time of year—nothing wild going on there.

The first bit of actual surf you can paddle into is on Thursday, September 10th. We’re looking at a solid 8ft swell from the south, with a period of 9 seconds. The wave energy is pumping hard, clocking in at 1112. Now, here’s the thing—that’s a lot of water. Over 5ft, so it’s already pushing it for beginners, and at 8ft, it’s getting into expert-only territory. The wind is cross-off from the SSW at 12 mph, which will help keep things clean on the face. But honestly, it’s a bit too meaty for the average punter. By Thursday afternoon, it drops slightly to 7ft, period stretching to 10 seconds, energy at 1225, and the wind goes proper offshore. The waves will be looking good, but again, it’s a heavy slab of water. If you’re not on your game, stay out of the way.

Friday, September 11th, we see it drop into a more manageable range. Morning brings 6ft from the south, period 10 seconds, energy at 707. The cross-off wind is lighter at 9 mph, and conditions are clean. This is the pick of the week for stronger intermediates. By afternoon, it’s down to 6ft, energy dropping to 545. Still clean, but the tide might play games with the shape.

Then we get a gem on Saturday, September 12th, first light. Swell is 4ft from the south, but the period jumps up to 12 seconds—that’s a groundswell, packing real punch. Energy is moderate at 677. The kicker? Glassy conditions. You read that right, glass. Wind is from the SSE at 3 mph, so it’s dead calm. This is the stand-out session. Clean, lined-up waves, long period, and no wind chop. It’s not huge, but it’s beautiful. Afternoon sees the cross-shore creep in, and it gets a bit lumpy, so get it while it’s hot in the morning.

Sunday and Monday (13th and 14th) are a write-off. Swell drops below 3ft, wind goes onshore or cross-on, and it’s choppy. Not worth getting wet.

We hit a dry spell until Wednesday, September 16th. Then we get a pulse back—6ft from the south, but the period is short at 8 seconds. Energy is 485. The wind is a light cross-off, so it’ll look okay, but the short period means it’s gonna be a bit lumpy and weak. Not bad for a quickie if you’re desperate.

Then, take a note for Saturday, September 19th, morning. That’s a full week and a half out, so treat this as a long-range tease. The models are showing a massive 13ft swell from the south, period 11 seconds, energy screaming at 3610. That’s huge. Too huge. This is for experts only, and even then, it’s borderline dangerous. The wind is light onshore, and that much water on a reef is gonna be a washing machine. It’s a promise of power, but you’ll need a death wish or a jet ski.

Later that same day (Sep 19th afternoon) and into Sunday the 20th, it backs off a bit. Sunday afternoon, September 20th, we get 7ft from the SSE, period 11 seconds, energy at 883. And here’s the magic—the wind goes glassy again. Light offshore breeze. This could be a proper treat if the swell holds. That’s the second potential stand-out, and probably the best for someone who can handle a solid 6ft wave in perfect conditions.

After that, it fades. Monday the 21st you’ve got a smaller, softer 5ft from the SSE, clean but not firing. Then it just dribbles away into tiny, weak, or wind-affected crap all the way to September 25th.

So, to wrap it up: the best on offer is Saturday morning, September 12th—small but glassy with long period groundswell. If you like a bit more power, keep an eye on Sunday afternoon, September 20th—glassy and a solid 7ft. For the brave, the 19th is a beast, but it’s a long way out and it’s dangerous. Most of this run is for intermediates and up. Beginners will have a rough time until maybe the 16th.

Stay stoked,
Rusty

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