Backdoor 4 Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming down the pipe for Backdoor 4. This is a reef set-up, exposed to the east, and it’s a very consistent wave. The water temp is sitting right around 66°, which is pretty much average for this time of year, nothing wild there.

We’ve got a bit of a slow start, but the first real surf to get excited about hits Monday morning, September 7th. It’s a clean, glassy morning with a small 5 ft south swell, period around 8 seconds. The combined energy is weak at 304, so not a lot of grunt, but it’ll be clean and fun for an intermediate. That glassy wind is a huge plus.

The standout of the whole run, without a doubt, is Tuesday, September 8th. This is where it gets real. We’ve got a solid 8 ft south swell pushing in the morning, with a combined energy of 1218, so that’s some proper moderate wave energy. The wind is offshore and clean from the south. This is solid size—over 8 ft—so it’s expert territory. It might be a bit much for most, but for the crew that can handle it, this is going to be a pumping day. The afternoon holds at 7 ft from the SSE, still clean and offshore, with energy at 700. Brilliant.

Wednesday morning, September 9th, drops back to a more manageable 4 ft south swell, clean with a light cross-offshore breeze. Energy is back down to 258, so it’s weak, but it’ll be a nice, cruisy morning wave. The afternoon, though, gets ugly with a strong 28 mph offshore wind and a 10 ft south swell. The energy jumps to 977, but that wind is just going to make it a battle to even get out. Hard to paddle into.

Thursday, September 10th, is another big day, but it’s all too big. Morning kicks off with a 10 ft south swell and 1763 energy, cross-offshore wind. By the afternoon, it’s an 12 ft south swell, 2200 energy, and a fresh offshore wind. It’s clean, sure, but at that size on this reef, it’s only for the absolute elite.

Friday, September 11th, still offshore and big, but easing. Morning is 8 ft from the south with 1345 energy, and afternoon drops to 8 ft with 978 energy. Both clean. Still expert-level stuff.

Now, here’s where it gets really interesting for most of us. Saturday, September 12th is the sweet spot. Morning has a 6 ft south swell from the south, clean with a light offshore breeze, and energy at 819. The afternoon is even better: 6 ft, a longer 11-second period from the south, and a light cross-offshore breeze. Energy is 785. This is the best on offer for the intermediate surfer. The longer period means better shaped, more powerful waves, and it’s a reef, so it’ll line up nicely. Crowds can be an issue here sometimes, so get in early.

Sunday the 13th turns onshore and messy, with a 4 ft SSE swell. The surf quality drops right off. From Monday the 14th through the rest of the week, it’s all pretty poor. Mostly small, onshore, and choppy. There’s a tiny blip on Tuesday the 15th with a clean offshore wind, but the swell is only 1 ft, so it’s a non-event.

We then see another big pulse trying to push in on Wednesday, September 16th. An 8 ft south swell with 1341 energy, but it’s cross-onshore and lumpy. Too big and messy. That trend of poor, choppy conditions sticks around for days. The energy is low, the wind is bad, and the swell direction is off.

There’s one last interesting window much further out, on Tuesday, September 22nd. It’s a chunky 8 ft south swell with a short 7-second period, cross-shore wind, and 679 energy. But that short period means it’ll be a bit of a washing machine, and with the cross-shore, it’s going to be choppy. Too big and too messy to recommend.

So to sum it up: Tuesday the 8th is the big, expert-only stand-out, but Saturday the 12th is your real gem for a clean, fun, intermediate session. That’s the one I’d be circling on the calendar.

Rusty.

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