Surfers Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cooking for the next couple of weeks. We’ve got a solid run of swell coming, but it’s not all going to be clean. The standout is right at the start, so let’s get into it.

Tuesday, September 8th is the one to circle. We’re looking at a solid 13ft of SW groundswell rolling in with a very long 16-second period. That’s a ton of energy in the water (8888) and it’s going to be a proper west-northwest facing reef set-up. The wind is a clean cross-offshore from the ESE at 12 mph, which will keep the faces nice and lined up. This is a big, powerful swell though – this is definitely for the experienced crew only. The water here is sitting at 65°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. The morning session is the pick, but the afternoon holds with a similar size and direction, just a touch more wind. Crowds are likely to be a factor here, so get in early.

Tuesday afternoon is still good, just a notch down with the wind picking up a little and the energy dropping slightly (7354). Still a very solid session.

Wednesday, September 9th sees the swell back off a touch to 10ft, but the period stays long at 15 seconds. The morning has a clean cross-offshore breeze, but the real magic is the afternoon. The wind drops to a glassy 3 mph from the south. It’s going to be dead calm, super clean, and that long-period groundswell will be wrapping in perfectly. The energy is still strong (3641). This is a top-tier window for the more experienced surfer who can handle the size.

Thursday, September 10th is smaller again, around 7ft to 7ft, with a 14-15 second period. The morning is clean, but the afternoon is where it’s at with another glass-off from the SW. This is a much more manageable size for a wider range of surfers, and the conditions will be damn near perfect. The energy is moderate (around 2109).

Friday, September 11th we get a pulse of new energy (3786 to 5468) as the swell bumps back up to 10ft with a very long 18-second period in the afternoon. However, the wind turns onshore from the NNW. It’s not horrible, but it’s not clean. The morning is a bit better with a cross-shore breeze. This is a case of the swell being there, but the wind taking the shine off.

Saturday, September 12th and Sunday, September 13th are a write-off. Strong onshore winds from the west make it a choppy, blown-out mess. The swell is still there, but you'd be fighting a losing battle. This is when the beach breaks might be more interesting for kite surfers than paddle surfers.

Monday, September 14th we get a brief reprieve. The wind swings light and variable, with a 12ft WSW swell. The morning has a light cross-shore, and the afternoon is light cross-onshore. It’s marginal but rideable if you’re desperate.

From Tuesday, September 15th through to the end of the forecast, we’re in a pattern of onshore wind and bigger, messy swell. There are sporadic windows of lighter wind, like the Tuesday morning with a cross-shore, or the Wednesday 23rd afternoon, but the wind is mostly cross-on or onshore, and the swell is consistently over 8ft and often 12ft to 13ft. The energy is strong to very strong throughout this period, but the quality will be poor for surfing. The 20th and 21st of September look particularly nasty with very strong winds and massive swell. The 23rd of September afternoon gets a slightly better score, but it’s still a cross-onshore, choppy mess.

The bottom line: The first two days are the absolute gold. Tuesday morning is the biggest, best quality swell. Wednesday afternoon is the glassiest, cleanest session. After that, it’s a case of picking the eyes out of a stormy forecast, with the first week of the second week offering a few moments of reprieve before the wind kicks back in. It’s not a complete blank, but the quality drops off a cliff after the first few days.

Rusty.

Read more