Surfers Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surfers, Rusty here. Let’s cut through the noise and look at the next couple of weeks for your region. We’ve got a wild ride ahead, with some serious size coming through, but a lot of it is going to be a messy, blown-out battle. The first few days have some rideable waves, but the standout windows are going to take some patience and a good eye on the forecast.

The opening act, starting Friday the 21st, has some clean conditions. Early Friday morning, the wind is light and glassy, and we’ve got a solid 12 ft SW groundswell, with a 14-second period. The energy in the water is strong. This is the best the surf will be for a while, so if you can get out there early, do it. The water temp is about average for this time of year. By the afternoon, the wind swings around, making things a bit crumbly, but it's still workable.

The weekend however, is going to be a bit of a letdown. The swell hangs in there, around 8 ft to 10 ft, but the wind has shifted and is blowing steadily cross-shore. It’s going to be lumpy and hard to find a clean face on Saturday and Sunday. You’ll be battling a lot of chop for not a lot of reward.

Monday the 24th offers a small window in the morning. The wind goes light again, and we still have 10 ft of swell, but the period has dropped to 13 seconds. It’s a step up from the weekend but still a bit bumpy. From Tuesday the 25th, things get properly ugly. The wind cranks up onshore, and the surf becomes a washing machine. Cross-onshore winds are going to make it a real chore for the paddle out. This is a good time to check your gear or find something else to do. This messy stretch will last a few days.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Wednesday the 26th, we see the swell absolutely double in size, hitting 16 ft. The energy levels are enormous. But listen to me, this is critical: this is way too much for this break. This is not a beginner spot, and at this size, it's too big even for most experts. The swell direction is WSW, right in the pocket for Surfers Point, but the sheer volume of water is dangerous. It looks like it might be more interesting for the kite crew than us paddle surfers.

The wind finally swings offshore on Thursday the 27th, but the swell is still huge at 14 ft. The sea state is clean, which is good, but that’s a serious, heavy wave. Only the most seasoned experts should even think about it. After that, the size backs down a touch, but the wind gods get angry again, blowing hard onshore and ruining the surf from the 29th through the 1st of September.

We get a bit of a reprieve on the 2nd and 3rd of September. The swell is still a solid 13 ft, and while the winds are not perfect, they are lighter. It will be a bit onshore, but the energy will be there. These are days for the experienced crew only, as it’s still a lot of water moving around.

The long-range stuff, around the 4th and 5th, shows some potential, but it’s too far out to be sure. The swell looks to stay big, but the winds are questionable. We’ll have to see how it all comes together. It’s promising, but take it with a grain of salt.

So, to sum it up: early Friday morning is your cleanest shot at a wave. Wednesday the 26th is a giant, dangerous beast, not for the faint of heart. The rest is a mix of average and messy. Stay sharp, and don't get caught inside on the big days.

Rusty, out.

Read more