Leggy Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let's look at the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, it’s a frustrating start. We’ve got a long, dead stretch from the 1st through the 8th of September. The surf is tiny and messy. We're talking waves around 2ft to 4ft from the south, with middling periods that never get really juicy. The wind is all over the place—cross, cross-on, onshore—just wrecking any chance of a clean face. There are a couple of clean afternoons on the 3rd and 5th, but with waves barely 2ft, there’s nothing to actually ride. The combined energy is weak to moderate, mostly sitting under 300. It’s a lot of sitting around for nothing.

There’s one little bright spot on the morning of Sunday the 6th. A 3ft south swell with a decent 12-second period gives a moderate energy of 219. The wind is a light offshore from the southeast, so it should be clean. The report even says "good surf conditions." But it’s a short window before the wind flips and blows it out in the afternoon.

The real event, the one that gets the blood pumping, is Thursday the 10th. But be warned, this one is for experts only. In the early morning, Leggy Point is looking at a serious 10ft swell from the SSE with a very long 14-second period. The energy is monstrous at 2977 (strong to very strong). And the wind? Glassy. Dead calm. That’s a dream scenario, but the forecast clearly states it’s too big for this break. At over 8ft, this is strictly for the elite crew. The previous day, the 9th, also offers a big 8ft to 7ft south swell with a clean cross-off wind and an energy of 1386. It's marked as "marginal", but it’s a solid, heavy day for anyone looking for a challenge.

After that, the plug gets pulled. The 11th has a 5ft swell, but it’s onshore and weak. From the 12th onward, it’s flat and tired. The 13th is a joke with a 0.7ft easterly swell and an energy of just 29. The 14th and 15th have a little more size, but the period is terrible (4-6 seconds), creating weak and crumbly waves. The 16th is the worst of it, with waves at 1ft to 2ft.

So, the standout is clear. Thursday the 10th of September, first light. That 10ft, 14-second SSE groundswell with glassy conditions is the big dog, but it’s only for experts. For the rest of us, the morning of the 6th of September is the one time you might find a clean, fun wave.

Leggy Point is a beach and reef setup, exposed to the south. It's inconsistent, so you have to time it right, and it’s known to get crowded sometimes. The swell is coming from the SSE, which is straight on for that optimum SE direction. Water’s at 65°, which is dead average for this time of year.

In short: a long flat spell, a brief clean chance on the 6th, and then a massive, expert-only bomb on the 10th. After that, save your energy for something else.

Rusty.

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