Leggy Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s brewing for Leggy Point over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a decent pulse of swell coming in. The sea temp is sitting at 66°F, which is about average for this time of year, so nothing weird going on there. The first few days are the real story here, but there’s a long, quiet gap in the middle that you’ll want to be aware of.

Kicking off Thursday, September 10th, the morning is your standout. We’re looking at a solid 8ft swell out of the south, with a period of 10 seconds. That’s a powerful, moderate groundswell with some serious energy behind it (2453). The wind is offshore from the SSW at 16 mph, which means clean, lined-up faces. This is excellent surf, but at that size, it’s definitely for experienced surfers only. The afternoon sees the swell drop a touch to 7ft, and the wind goes cross-offshore, which is still clean, but a bit less perfect.

Friday morning, September 11th, holds onto that energy. The swell is 6ft from the SSE, period still a solid 10 seconds, and the wind is offshore again. Clean, punchy waves (627). The afternoon drops to 5ft and the wind goes cross-off, but it’s still a good session.

Saturday morning, September 12th, is a real treat. The swell backs off to 4ft, but the wind is practically glassy from the south at only 3 mph. Cross-off, clean, and the period is 9 seconds. It’s a smaller day, but for intermediates and up, it’ll be a joy with no wind messing it up.

Then we hit a wall. From Saturday afternoon all the way through to Tuesday, September 15th, the surf drops right off. The energy numbers plummet into the low hundreds and even single digits. It’s small, weak, and the wind turns onshore or cross-shore. There’s a solid 5-day stretch of poor to unsurfable conditions here. Bring a book.

A glimmer returns on Wednesday, September 16th, with a 6ft SSE swell, but the period is a short 8 seconds, and the wind is cross-shore, making it choppy and messy. Not great.

The next real event to watch is on the weekend of September 19th and 20th. Saturday, September 19th, sees a big jump in size. The morning swell is 6ft from the SSE with a very long 14-second period, packing a massive punch (2070). The wind is cross-shore, so it’ll be a bit textured, but that’s a lot of water moving. The afternoon gets even bigger at 8ft, but the wind goes cross-onshore, making it lumpy. This is expert territory, and the long period means it might close out a bit on the beachier sections, but the point should handle it.

Sunday, September 20th, is still 5ft with a 12-second period, but the wind is onshore in the afternoon, so mornings are your best bet.

After that, it’s a mixed bag of onshore winds and building swell into the end of the month. The 25th of September has a 7ft swell with cross-offshore wind, but it’s a bit raw with 28 mph gusts earlier in the week.

The call: Thursday morning, September 10th, is the clear winner. Big, clean, and powerful. Saturday morning, September 12th, is a close second for the smaller, glassy conditions. Everything else is either too big, too messy, or too small. Don't sleep on that first couple of days.

Rusty.

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