Leggy Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s have a look.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a bit of a flat spell ahead. The first few days are pretty grim, with only tiny, messy swells and cross-shore winds that just aren’t doing Leggy Point any favours. It’s going to be a frustrating watch until conditions start to line up. The water temp here is sitting at 65°, which is right around average for this time of year, so nothing out of the ordinary there.

Tuesday morning and afternoon are both a write-off – weak 2ft to 3ft swell from the south with a short 11-second period, but the cross-onshore wind has it all chopped up. Wednesday and Thursday stay just as poor, with the swell dropping off a little more and the wind swinging cross-shore, making for lumpy, unappealing surf. The combined energy is low, barely scraping over 100 (117 to 94), so you're not missing much.

Friday the 4th of October – we finally see a change. The morning goes glassy with a light SSW breeze, and that south swell bumps up to 3ft at 11 seconds, with combined energy rising to 187. The waves are still only surfable in a very ordinary way, but at least it’s clean for a paddle. The glassy conditions are a big positive here, but it’s not going to set the world on fire.

Sunday the 6th is where it starts to get interesting. The morning has a clean 3ft south swell with a 12-second period, and combined energy jumps to 305. The light cross-off wind keeps it tidy. This is the first proper glimmer of quality, and I’d say it’s your best bet for the first week if you’re itching for a session.

Thursday the 10th and Friday the 11th – hold onto your board. This is a massive, expert-only event. The swell is forecast to pump in at 10ft to 16ft from the south, with a very long 13-second period. The combined energy readings are insane (2768 to 15175). That’s a serious amount of power. The wind is offshore or cross-off, so the faces will be clean, but this is far too big for anyone but the most experienced. Leggy Point is a beach and reef setup, and with that long-period groundswell, expect it to unload fast and heavy. Not for the faint of heart.

Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th – the swell drops back to a more manageable 4ft to 6ft from the SSE/SE, with combined energy still very solid (510 to 517). The morning sessions look clean with light winds. Saturday morning in particular with that 6ft south swell and a light SSW breeze is a strong call for good quality waves. Crowds are possible here, so get in early.

Monday the 14th – the morning goes glassy again with a 3ft ESE swell. It’s clean, but the swell is quite short period (10 seconds). Still a decent option for a fun, uncrowded session.

Tuesday the 15th – a nice little cleanup with a light SSE breeze and a 4ft east swell in the afternoon. Clean conditions make this worth a look for a cruisy afternoon wave.

Overall, the standout is Sunday the 6th for the first clean, fun-size swell. But the real epic event is the 10th and 11th, which is only for big-wave chargers. After that, the weekend of the 12th and 13th delivers the most consistent, good-quality surf for everyone else.

Rusty.

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