Leggy Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the table for Leggy Point over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’ve got a messy start. Thursday the 27th kicks off with some chest-high S swell at 7 ft, but the wind is a cross-off S at 12 mph, which isn’t ideal. The energy is strong (1214), but the conditions are only marginal. Afternoon drops to 6 ft, still okay but not lighting any fires. Friday and Saturday are much the same story – surf around 5 ft to 4 ft, wind is cross or cross-off, and the scores are low. The real bright spot in this first week? Sunday morning, August 30th. It’s glassy, clean, with a tiny 3 ft S swell. The wind is dead calm from the NW at 3 mph. That’s a window for a longboard or a funboard session – small, clean, and no one else around probably. Water temp is about average for the time of year at 64°.

Monday the 31st has a similar glassy morning, but the swell is still only 4 ft. By Monday afternoon, the period jumps to 16 seconds, but the swell drops to 2 ft and the wind goes cross-on – not worth it. After that, we hit a dry spell. From Tuesday, September 1st, all the way through to Saturday, September 7th, the wave heights barely climb above 3 ft and the energy is weak (under 200). The wind is mostly cross or cross-off, but the surf is just too small to get excited about. A few days in there have a clean face, but it’s ankle-to-knee high at best. This is a proper lull.

Now, the second week starts to show some promise, but it’s a long-range call. Sunday, September 7th, is still small, but come Monday, September 8th, we start to see a pulse. The real standout, however, is Thursday, September 10th. The guidance is pointing at a big SSE swell: 12 ft in the morning, 10 ft in the afternoon, with a period of 14 seconds. That’s a lot of juice (energy reading 4824!). The wind is offshore from the SW at 12 mph, so the conditions will be clean. But here’s the thing, folks – this is a serious size. Over 8 ft, it’s expert-only territory. This isn’t for the faint of heart or the beginner. The break is a beach-and-reef setup, and with that long period (14s, getting into groundswell territory), it’s going to be powerful and peaky. It might be a bit too much for the banks, but if you’re a seasoned charger, mark your calendar for September 10th. The swell is from the SSE, which is a good match for the optimum SE direction, so the lines should be proper.

Friday the 11th is still big (10 ft to 8 ft), but the wind swings cross-on in the afternoon, so the morning will be the go. After that, the forecast gets too uncertain to call.

So, bottom line: this week is small and clean, best for a glassy morning session. The real fire is next week, September 10th, with a big, clean, offshore swell for experts only. Keep your eyes on that one.

Rusty.

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