Leggy Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the table for Leggy Point over the next couple of weeks.

First up, the water temp is sitting at 65°F, which is about 0.5°F cooler than average for this time of year – nothing to write home about, just standard late-winter feel.

Now, the surf story. Things are pretty quiet to start. There’s a little bit of swell on Friday afternoon, but it’s only 5ft from the SSE with a 10-second period and a cross-off breeze. The energy is moderate (561), but it’s a bit of a mix-and-match setup – not a total write-off, but nothing to get excited about. Saturday morning drops to 4ft, still cross-off, still clean, but small. Saturday afternoon picks up a touch to 5ft, same direction, but again, it’s just okay.

Sunday morning is where it gets interesting. The wind goes glassy, barely a breath from the north at 3 mph, and the swell sits at 3ft from the SSE. It’s small but clean as a whistle. The energy is moderate (222). For a lazy Sunday session, that’s the pick of the first few days – glassy, small, and user-friendly for intermediates.

Monday morning still has that glassy feel with 4ft from the south, but the period is only 8 seconds, so it’s a bit short and weak. After Monday, the wheels fall off. From Monday afternoon all the way through to the morning of September 8th, it’s a long stretch of poor surf – small, messy, or just plain flat. The swell drops to 0.7ft, energy dips into the double digits (44). That’s a solid week-plus of nothing worth paddling out for.

Then, on the morning of Tuesday, September 8th, we get a bit of a pulse. A 6ft SSE swell rolls in with a 10-second period and a clean offshore wind from the SSW at 16 mph. The energy jumps back to moderate (515). It’s got some juice, but it’s a bit raw and the tide might be a factor. Still, for the first real surf in over a week, it’s a welcome sight. Wednesday morning the 9th is cleaner, with 4ft, light cross-off breeze, and good energy (498). That’s a solid session for the intermediate crew.

But the real standout? Two words: Thursday morning, September 10th. Leggy Point wakes up to 5ft of long-period groundswell from the SSE, period hitting 12 seconds, and the wind is near-glass, just a whisper from the WNW at 3 mph. The energy is high (625), the waves will have shape and push, and with that long period, the longer gaps between sets will make paddling out easier. This is the best on offer – clean, solid, and well-angled for the break. It’s a point-and-reef setup, so that long-period groundswell will peel nicely. Crowds are possible here, but with that quality, it’ll be worth sharing a few waves.

Friday morning the 11th also looks decent with a 4ft SSE swell and a 12 mph offshore wind, but it’s a bit smaller. Friday afternoon pushes back up to 5ft, 12 seconds, and clean cross-off winds – another very good session.

Then, Saturday morning September 12th brings a bigger pulse: 7ft from the SSE, period 9 seconds, and glassy conditions. The energy is strong (797). That’s a lot of water moving. For the experts, this is a proper session. For beginners, that’s too big – stay on the beach. The afternoon goes onshore and choppy, so get it in the morning.

All in all, the first few days are a slow burn with a glassy Sunday morning as the early highlight. Then a long, flat spell. Then the second week kicks off with that Thursday the 10th as the absolute standout – clean, long-period groundswell, and good energy. Mark it on the calendar.

Rusty, signing off.

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