Alnes Lighthouse Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it. The wait is going to be a bit of a tester, but there’s a proper payoff coming down the line for those with patience. The first week is mostly a write-off for quality waves, with a messy mix of wind and average swell, but the second half of the forecast window looks like it could be something special.

We’re looking at Alnes Lighthouse as the main player here. It’s a fairly exposed point break, which is key because the best swells are coming from the NW, and that matches up nicely with the optimum direction. Water temp is sitting at 55°F, which is bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there for the first break we talk about.

Right, from Friday the 11th through to the 18th, it’s a struggle. The swell is there, around 6 ft to 8 ft, mostly from the W and WNW, but the wind is constantly messing it up. Friday afternoon (Sep 11) has a 7 ft WSW swell but with a 22 mph cross-off, making it marginal at best. Saturday and Sunday (Sep 12–13) see the swell sticking around 7 ft to 8 ft, but the wind is cross or cross-on, creating chop. There’s a flicker of hope on Monday the 14th, with a morning session showing a 7 ft NNW swell and light cross-off winds, and the combined energy is a solid 1272 – moderate energy, but clean. The afternoon gets even better with a 6 ft NNW swell and 12 mph offshore winds from the SE. That’s the only real window in that first week, and it’s short-lived. Tuesday the 15th onward drops off into a mix of rain, fresh breezes, and poor conditions. We’re looking at a gap of several days with nothing worth paddling for through the middle of the week.

Now, hold onto your boards. From Monday the 22nd of September, the forecast turns on a dime. Tuesday morning, we’ve got a 6 ft WSW swell with glassy conditions – no wind at all. That’s clean surf, and the energy is 801, which is moderate, but the conditions make it a standout for the intermediate crew. But the real beauty comes on Tuesday afternoon: an 12 ft W swell with a 12-second period and glassy conditions. That’s a groundswell, and it’s pushing 3200 in combined energy – strong wave energy. This is expert territory. Over 8 ft means it’s only for the experienced. The period is long, over 11 seconds, so this is a proper groundswell hitting the point. It’s going to have long, clean lines, but the sets are spaced out.

Then Wednesday the 23rd? Look out. A 13 ft WNW swell with a 14-second period and glassy conditions in the morning. The combined energy is a massive 5792 – that’s very strong wave energy. This is as good as it gets for the big-wave crew. The period is very long, so expect powerful, well-shaped waves that will hold up perfectly on the point. Thursday the 24th keeps the good times rolling with a 10 ft WNW swell and glassy conditions again, both morning and afternoon. The energy is sitting over 2100, still strong. This whole stretch from the 22nd to the 24th is the absolute standout. The swell direction (WNW) isn’t a perfect match for the optimum NW, but it’s close enough, and with clean, glassy conditions on a point break, it’s going to be world-class.

After that, things mellow out. The 25th and 26th drop back to 5 ft to 8 ft, with cross-shore winds, but nothing special. The window is closing. So, the plan is simple: suffer through the first week, save your energy, and be ready for that Tuesday-to-Thursday window starting September 22nd. The best on offer is Wednesday the 23rd for the big dogs, and Tuesday the 22nd afternoon for a slightly more manageable, but still expert, session.

Rusty

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