Strand (Pipe) Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it’s Rusty here, and I’ve got the lowdown on the local stretch for the next sixteen days.

Overall, we’re looking at a real mixed bag. The first week or so delivers some fun, clean, small waves, but then we get a serious bump in size that’s messy and blown out before a late window of proper, clean groundswell shows up. Patience is key.

The run starts on Wednesday, July 29th, with conditions that are nothing short of beautiful. Strand (Pipe) is the spot to be. It’s a beach and reef setup, exposed to the swell, and it’s fairly consistent. The water temp is sitting at 59°, which is pretty much spot on for this time of year. Wednesday morning shows a clean 4ft SSW swell (13 second period), with a light 6 mph offshore breeze from the ENE. The energy is moderate (579), and the vibe is perfect. The afternoon glass-off with a 3 mph SW breeze only makes it more tempting. Thursday keeps the good times rolling with glassy conditions and a dropping 4ft to 3ft swell. Friday and Saturday drop right off into tiny, glassy but weak surf, with the wave energy falling to below 200. It’s a beautiful time to be on the water, but you’ll be on a longboard or a foamie.

We hit a dry spell from Sunday, August 2nd, through to Tuesday, August 5th. The wind turns onshore and cross-shore, making a mess of things. The swell is small and the conditions are poor to marginal. This is a three-day gap where you’d be better off doing something else.

Then, things get interesting, but not for the faint of heart. From Wednesday, August 5th, the swell starts to build but the wind is howling. Wednesday afternoon sees a 5ft SSW swell but with a strong 12 mph cross-onshore breeze. The energy is ramping up into the high hundreds (954), but it’s choppy and ugly. This pattern continues into August 6th and 7th, with a serious 8ft SSW groundswell (15 second period) arriving on Friday the 7th but with a cross-onshore wind. The wave energy is massive (2648), but this is a rough, blown-out mess. With the wind and the size, this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing. It’s a pass for the average surfer.

The weekend of August 8th and 9th is still messy, but Sunday August 9th brings a change. The wind swings cross-offshore from the SE, but the swell is a short period 7ft from the SE (7 seconds). It’s a clean wave, but that short period means it’ll be a bit lumpy and weak on the face. The energy is moderate (663). It’s better than the previous days, but not the highlight.

Now, here’s where we get the real standout. The period from Tuesday, August 12th, through Thursday, August 13th, is absolutely firing for experienced surfers. This is the best on offer. The wind is a clean, light cross-offshore from the SE and SSE, and the swell is a pure, long-period groundswell from the SW. On Wednesday the 12th, we’re looking at a 5ft swell with a period of 18 seconds! The wave energy is very strong (1884). Thursday the 13th holds at 5ft with a 15 second period and strong energy (1124). This is a long-period groundswell, which means better shaped waves, more energy, and longer lulls between sets. It’s a dream for a reef break like Strand (Pipe). The only caveat is that at over 5ft, this is intermediate territory at best, and with the power of that 18-second period, it’s one for the experienced crew. Monday, August 10th, also offers a clean lead-in with a 4ft SSE swell and a 14 second period, but the wind is a little stronger.

So, to wrap it up: the first few days are small and clean, perfect for a cruise. The middle of the period is a washout. But the pay-off comes in the second week, specifically August 12th and 13th. That’s the window for the real deal. Keep your eyes on that forecast.

Rusty.

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