Makapu'u Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s be straight with you: the next couple of weeks at Makapu’u look pretty grim. There’s a long stretch of poor surf conditions that just won’t let up.

We’ve got some swell coming in, but the winds are trashing it. For the first few days, starting Monday afternoon (August 24th) and right through the end of the month, the trades are howling out of the ENE at 15 to 25 mph, with some strong gusts. That’s blowing straight onshore, turning what could be a fun reef break into a messy, choppy mess. The swell height jumps around from 2 ft to 8 ft, but with short-period junk (6 to 8 seconds), the wave energy is moderate but completely unrideable. The water temp is 81°, which is about average for the time of year.

Honestly, for the whole first week, every single session is rated as poor surf. There’s no standout, no window of glass. Even a south swell that rolls in on Thursday the 27th, with a long period of 17 seconds and strong energy (1033), gets ruined by the onshore wind. That south groundswell would have been a gem at a point or reef, but with the wind… no good.

The second week doesn’t get any better. The winds stay relentless, often hitting 22 to 28 mph. On Monday, September 1st, we see 8 ft of ENE swell with energy spiking to 1162, but it’s still onshore, blown out, and too big for anyone but experts anyway. By the time we get to September 8th (Tuesday), the wind finally backs off to a light breeze, but it’s cross-onshore, and the conditions are only described as marginal. The swell is 5 ft from ENE at 9 seconds, but the quality just isn’t there.

The one and only standout – if you can even call it that – is the last day in the window. On Tuesday, September 8th morning, the wind drops to a light breeze from the SE (3 mph) and the swell is 5 ft at 9 seconds. It’s not a groundswell, and the wave energy is moderate (529), but with the lighter breeze, it’s the cleanest the break will look. The optimum swell direction for Makapu’u (Hawaii) is ESE, and the swell is coming from ENE, so it’s not a perfect match, but it’s the best shot in a 16-day forecast full of duds. You’ll have company though – crowds are possible here.

Bottom line: if you are desperate for a paddle, that Tuesday morning (Sept 8) is the only time I’d even bother checking it. For the rest, unless you’re rigging a kite, stay home.

- Rusty

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