Fistral-North Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what the next couple of weeks have in store for us.

To be straight with you, this forecast is a tough one. We’re looking at a long stretch of small, messy, and wind-affected surf that just isn't going to get the heart pumping. For the first ten days or so, we’re dealing with tiny waves and a lot of onshore and cross-shore breeze. It’s a classic summer pattern that leaves Fistral looking pretty fat and bumpy. You’ll be scratching your head wondering where the ocean went, but this is what it looks like when the swell machine is on idle. Don’t get too down about it though, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. The good news is the forecast models are hinting at a proper pulse of energy arriving later on, but we’ve got a long, flat week to get through before that happens.

The first few days are a total write-off. We're talking about knee-high slop with the wind all over the place. Tuesday the 11th kicks things off with a bit of offshore breeze, but there's no swell at all, so it’s a flat, glassy ocean with nothing to ride. The energy is incredibly weak, with the combined swell energy only hitting values in the high 20s and 30s. This is not just small; it’s basically non-existent. As we move through the following days, we see readings staying weak, in the 100-200 range. The direction is coming from the west but with a short, weak period, and the wind is mostly cross or onshore. The 15th and 16th see a bit more wind and even less swell, so it's going to be a period of staring at a pretty, but empty, ocean.

Then we hit a proper dead zone from the 17th through the 20th. The swell stays tiny, often under 3 feet, and the periods are short, in the 4 to 10 second range. The wind stays messy, and the energy readings are moderate at best, sitting between 30 and 109. The odd morning might look clean with an offshore breeze, but there is just nothing to ride. It’ll be a good time to catch up on board repairs, because the surf is simply not happening.

Now, hold on to your boards, because things change dramatically. On Friday the 21st, a real swell shows up. It’s still a week and a half away, so don’t book the day off work yet, but it’s looking proper promising. The forecast shows a jump in size to 6ft in the morning and 7ft in the afternoon. This is a solid, powerful swell from the WNW, and the combined energy leaps up to a strong 411 and then 598 – you feel that power in your chest just looking at it. The wind is forecast to be light offshore from the ESE, which would make Fistral absolutely glassy. This is the standout session of the whole window.

The day after, Saturday the 22nd, still has plenty of size, around 7ft, but the wind clocks around to the west and cross-on, so it’ll be more of a battle, with the sets closing out. It’ll be big and chunky, but not the clean, groomed waves of the day before. After that, the swell fades quickly. Sunday the 23rd is smaller and lumpy, and then we’re right back to the tiny stuff, with the local winds switching onshore again. That’s the window, folks. A whole lot of nothing, followed by one very interesting day if the forecast holds. It’s a longer period swell, which will help it hold its shape, but with the size forecast, it might well be too much for beginners. For the experienced crew, keep your fingers crossed for the 21st.

Anyway, that’s the long and short of it. It’s a waiting game this time. Keep an eye on that Friday the 21st, it’s our best, and perhaps only, real shot at something memorable. It’s a long way off, so treat it as promising but not set in stone. Until next time, I’m Rusty.

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