Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey folks, Rusty here. It’s been a bit of a wait, but we’ve finally got some swell lining up at Eerste Steen. The first real surfable waves don’t show until Monday the 31st of August, but the conditions are rough – a 7ft SW swell with a 15 km/h cross-on wind from the south has got things messy. Water temps are sitting at 55°F, which is a whopping 5°F colder than usual for this time of year, so a thick steamer is a must. The combined energy is a solid 1019 (moderate), but it’s just not clean. Monday afternoon is more of the same – 6ft SW, still cross-on, and the score is zero.

Tuesday the 1st of September sees the swell jump to 8ft SW, with a 13-second period (nice long groundswell), but the wind is still cross-on in the morning, and by afternoon it’s a full onshore 20 km/h from the SW. That’s 10ft of messy, blown-out swell – not worth paddling out. The energy is through the roof (2429-3208), but it’s all for nothing.

Wednesday the 2nd holds 10ft SW swell with that same 13-second period, but again, cross-on winds. The morning is a little lighter, but still not clean. The energy is massive (3169-2682), but the quality just isn’t there.

Now, Thursday the 3rd of September morning is a big one – 12ft of SW swell, a 11-second period, and a 25 km/h cross-shore wind from the south. The combined energy hits 5314 (very strong), but the forecast says it’s too big for this break. This is expert-only territory, and even then, with the wind, it’s going to be a battle. The afternoon is a no-go with 50 km/h winds.

Friday the 4th and Saturday the 5th are smaller (8ft down to 6ft) and come from the S and SSE, with shorter periods (10 to 7 seconds). The wind is cross-offshore from the SE, which is a huge plus for clean conditions. Saturday morning actually gets a “expect very good surf conditions” note with a 6ft SSE swell and light 15 km/h cross-off breeze. The energy is moderate (681), but the waves are clean. That’s a solid window for an intermediate surfer.

The standout, though, is Sunday the 6th of September. The morning shows a 4ft SW groundswell with a 15-second period (very long period) and a cross-offshore wind from the ESE at 20 km/h. The energy is 1154 (strong), and the conditions are clean. This is a classic setup for a point break or reef – the long period will make for lined-up, powerful waves, but it might be a bit fat for a beach break. The afternoon picks up to 7ft SSE at 9 seconds, still clean. This is the best on offer – a proper, clean, long-period swell.

Monday the 7th of September is another good call with a 4ft S swell, 12-second period, and an offshore wind from the east at 15 km/h. The energy is moderate (445), but that offshore wind is a dream. The water is still cold, but the waves are clean and glassy.

After that, the second week drops off fast. From Tuesday the 8th through to the 15th, the swell goes tiny (1ft to 5ft) with poor winds and junk conditions. There’s a small bump on the 11th and 12th with 5ft to 7ft WSW swell, but the wind is onshore or cross-shore, keeping it messy. The 15th has a 6ft SW swell with a 15-second period, but the wind is a fresh 35 km/h cross-shore – a total write-off.

So, the real highlight is the Sunday the 6th of September morning session. If you can get out, the 4ft long-period SW groundswell with clean conditions is the best we’re going to see. The Thursday the 3rd is just too big and gnarly. Keep an eye on the Saturday morning too, but for pure quality, Sunday is the one.

Rusty out.

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