Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Looks like we’ve got a solid run of swell coming in for Eerste Steen over the next couple of weeks, but you’ll have to pick your moments carefully. The first few days are the real standouts, with some seriously clean, powerful groundswell. After that, it gets messy, with a few opportunities for the experienced crew only.

The action kicks off Sunday the 6th of September. Morning delivers a 7ft SW groundswell with a very long 18-second period, and a cross-off ESE breeze at 9 mph. The energy’s pumping at 2865 (moderate-strong), so it’s decently solid. It’s an expert-only show, though – that size and period will be too much for beginners. The afternoon cleans up even more, with a lighter 6 mph SE breeze, still cross-off, and the swell drops slightly to 6ft SW at 16 seconds, energy at 1951. The word is “excellent” for experienced surfers, and I’d agree – that’s quality.

Monday the 7th is the absolute standout. Morning brings a 7ft SW swell at 14 seconds, with glassy conditions – a NW breeze at just 3 mph. That’s about as clean as it gets. Energy is 1504, still solid. The combination of pure groundswell and glassy surface means Eerste Steen will be running smooth and lined up. If you’re an intermediate or above, this is the session to lock in. The afternoon turns to a cross-on SSW breeze, killing the quality quickly.

From Tuesday the 8th through to the 11th, things drop off hard – small, weak swell with onshore winds, a lot of choppy, poor surf. A couple of days to skip.

Then Thursday the 10th sees a pulse: a 8ft WSW swell at 15 seconds, with a 12 mph cross-off ESE breeze. Energy is 3170 (strong), but tides and conditions are questionable. Still, that’s a big, clean-ish swell for the bold. The wind stays cross-off in the morning, so it’s worth a look if you’re experienced. Afternoon the wind swings cross-shore and gets lumpy.

Saturday the 12th and Sunday the 13th offer more size – 7ft to 8ft and even 10ft SW swells – but the wind is cross-shore from the S or SSE, bumping up the surface. Energy is high (2811, 2902, 2578), but it’s marginal. Not the best, but if you’re hungry and have a bigger board, there’s juice.

Now, a big one: Tuesday the 15th of September. The morning shows a 12ft WSW groundswell at 16 seconds, with a cross NNW wind at 16 mph. The energy is massive at 5323 (very strong). But the warning says it’s predicted to be too big for this break – that’s expert-only territory, and even then, it’s pushing limits. Afternoon gets even uglier with strong onshore winds. Wednesday the 16th is a write-off with rain and heavy winds.

The last real window comes Friday the 18th of September. Morning delivers a 8ft SSW swell at 12 seconds, with a light cross-off SE breeze at 6 mph. Energy is 1447 (moderate), and conditions are clean. “Excellent” for experienced surfers again. A nice finish to the run. Saturday the 19th morning also has a 5ft SW swell with clean cross-off winds, but it’s smaller.

One thing to note: the water temperature anomaly is not given, so it’s just average for the time of year – nothing out of the ordinary.

Overall, Monday the 7th morning is the absolute best on offer – glassy, solid groundswell, and clean. Sunday the 6th and Friday the 18th are the next best bets. The rest is either messy, too big, or too small. Stay sharp, and don’t bother with the middle of the week unless you’re a glutton for chop.

Rusty.

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