Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Grab your board, because we’ve got a proper run of swell ahead, even if the start is a bit rough. The ocean’s been holding onto a bunch of energy, and once the winds play nice, we’re in for some proper sessions. The water’s sitting at 56°, which is a solid 4° colder than normal for this time of year, so you’ll want the thickest suit you’ve got – it’s properly chilly out there.

First up, Friday the 11th is a washout. We’ve got a cross-shore breeze kicking up a chop, and the waves are just messy. Not worth your time. Saturday the 12th is a bit better with cleaner conditions, but the tide’s looking iffy, so it’s still pretty marginal. The swell’s there, around 8ft from the SW, but it’s not coming together.

Sunday the 13th morning is where things start to get interesting. The wind drops right out to a light cross-off, and we’ve got 7ft of SW swell with a 14-second period. It’s clean, got some push, and for the experienced crew, this is a proper shout. The energy’s strong too, with 2152 units on the combined scale. It’s still not perfect, but it’s the first real taste of what’s coming.

Then we hit a bit of a lull. Monday through Wednesday is messy, with stronger winds and lumpy conditions. There’s some size on Tuesday afternoon – 8ft – but the wind’s all over it, turning it into a chop-fest. Not worth paddling out for unless you’re after a fight.

Now, here’s the standout. Friday the 18th morning. The sky’s clear, the wind is a light cross-off from the SE, and we’ve got 8ft of SW swell at 13 seconds, with 2867 units of energy. Conditions are clean, and it’s got that proper push. This is the one to circle on the calendar.

Saturday the 19th morning is still good – 6ft, clean, light winds – but the real gem is Sunday the 20th. Morning is glassy. Dead flat water, 8ft of SW swell at 14 seconds, and 2947 units of energy. This is about as good as it gets at Eerste Steen. The waves will be firing, and with no wind, it’ll be as clean as a whistle. The water’s still cold, but you won’t notice when you’re getting shacked.

After that, the energy fades. Monday the 21st through to the 23rd is on the smaller side, and the winds are getting messy again. There’s a pulse on Wednesday the 23rd afternoon – 6ft from the SW at 16 seconds – but it’s cross-shore and a bit lumpy.

Thursday the 24th morning is another good one. Light offshore from the ENE, 7ft of SW swell, clean and organized. 1892 units of energy. It’s a solid session for those in the know.

The last few days drop off into onshore slop with strong winds, so the outlook fades out. But don’t sleep on that Sunday the 20th – that’s the one you’ll be telling your mates about.

Just remember, this is all a bit out there, so keep an eye on the forecast as it gets closer. But for now, pencil in Friday the 18th and Sunday the 20th. You won’t want to miss those.

Rusty.

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