Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, grab your board and let’s have a look. We’ve got a solid run of swell coming in for Eerste Steen starting this Wednesday, the 8th of July. Water temps are running a bit colder than normal at 57°, about 35° cooler than usual for this time of year, so you’ll want a decent spring suit.

Wednesday morning is where it kicks off. We’ve got a 7 ft SW groundswell rolling in with a 13-second period. That’s a nice long-period groundswell, which at a point break like this should line up beautifully. The wind is glassy from the SSE at just 3 mph, so the surface will be like a lake. Combined wave energy is pumping at 2316 (moderate to strong), so there’s real grunt in the water. This is for experienced surfers only at that size, but it’s a proper standout session.

Through Wednesday afternoon and all of Thursday, the wind swings cross-shore and the quality drops off. The swell holds around 7 ft to 8 ft, but with a moderate cross-shore breeze and a bit of chop, it’s more of a struggle than a treat. Not recommended.

Friday morning, 10th July, things clean up again. The swell is still 8 ft from the SSW with a 13-second period, but now the wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze from the SE at 9 mph. That keeps the faces clean. Combined energy is 2302 (moderate to strong). This is another window for experienced surfers. Afternoon goes cross-shore again, so aim for the early.

Saturday morning, 11th July, the swell drops a touch to 7 ft, period still 12 seconds, and the wind is light cross-offshore from the ESE at 6 mph. Combined energy is 1361 (moderate). Good clean waves for the confident intermediate surfer. By the afternoon, a light cross-onshore blows in, so the morning is the pick.

Sunday the 12th brings a smaller morning at 5 ft from the SSW, clean with a light cross-offshore breeze from the east. Combined energy drops to 675 (weak to moderate). This is more manageable for intermediate surfers. Afternoon goes onshore and weak, so get it early.

From Monday the 13th through to Tuesday the 21st, we see a long stretch of tiny, weak swell and mostly ordinary conditions. A few mornings might be glassy, but the waves are under 3 ft with low energy (201 to 306). Not worth paddling out for.

Now, there’s a big pulse coming on Thursday the 16th of July—12 ft SW swell with a 13-second period and combined energy of 3811 (strong). But the wind is onshore and the forecast says the swell is too big for this break. That’s a miss for paddle surfing; it looks more interesting for the kite crew.

Friday morning, 17th July, is a redemption set. A 10 ft SW groundswell, 12-second period, light cross-offshore breeze from the SE at 6 mph. Clean faces and 2414 combined energy (moderate). This is for experts only at that size, but if you’ve got the skill, this is a standout.

Saturday the 18th is another beauty for the morning: 7 ft SSW swell with a 12-second period, light offshore wind from the NE at just 3 mph, and glassy conditions. Combined energy at 1678 (moderate). That’s clean, lined-up surf—another standout for experienced hands.

Sunday the 19th morning is smaller at 5 ft with a clean cross-offshore breeze. Good for intermediates before the wind picks up.

The final standout to keep an eye on is Wednesday the 22nd of July morning: a 10 ft SW groundswell with a very long 15-second period, glassy wind from the SE at 3 mph, and combined energy of 3353 (strong). That’s a serious, long-period groundswell—deadly clean but big enough that only experts should even think about paddling out. After that, the run fades through to the end.

So to sum it up: the best windows are Wednesday morning the 8th, Friday the 10th morning, Saturday the 11th morning, Friday the 17th morning, Saturday the 18th morning, and Wednesday the 22nd morning. The real standouts are the 17th and 22nd for big, clean, powerful swell hitting the break perfectly.

Stay salty.
Rusty

Read more