Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming our way.

We’ve got a solid run of swell on the cards, but it’s not all smooth sailing. The first few days have some size and quality, but you’ll need to pick your windows. The standout period looks to be Tuesday the 28th and Wednesday the 29th, with a nice pulse of SW groundswell and some very clean conditions on offer.

The action kicks off Monday morning the 27th with a solid 8ft SW swell, but a fresh 22 mph SSE cross-shore wind is going to mess it up – lumpy cross-chop, not worth the paddle. By Monday afternoon the wind swings cross-offshore and it cleans right up, but the swell energy is strong (4512) and the period is 17 seconds, making it a proper groundswell. That long period is going to make it grind a bit straight at this beach, but for experienced surfers it’ll be worth a look.

Tuesday the 28th is where it starts to come together. Morning sees 8ft SW swell with a 14-second period and a moderate cross-offshore breeze – clean waves. The afternoon is even better: 8ft SW, same period, but the wind drops to a gentle 9 mph cross-off. That’s the call for Tuesday afternoon – excellent conditions for experienced surfers, and the combined energy (2476) is solid. Crowds are sometimes an issue here at Eerste Steen, so expect some company.

Wednesday the 29th morning is the real gem. Swell drops slightly to 6ft SW, but we get a light offshore breeze from the ENE at 6 mph. Clean, lined-up waves with a 13-second period and moderate energy (1074). This is the pick of the first week – light offshore, solid groundswell, and the break is fairly consistent. Wednesday afternoon gets a bit of a cross-on wind, so go early.

Thursday the 30th still has clean 5ft SW swell in the morning with light cross-off winds, but the energy is dropping to 796. Still fun, not a standout. Friday the 31st is small – 4ft SW, cleaner in the morning but pretty weak. Saturday the 1st of August brings a nice little spike: 5ft SW in the morning with light offshore wind, then Saturday afternoon goes glassy with 4ft SW and zero wind – absolutely pristine, but on the smaller side.

Sunday the 2nd of August sees a jump back to 7ft SW with a 17-second period and moderate cross-off wind – clean but strong (2953 energy). The 8ft afternoon gets a cross-chop, so morning is the move.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting for the heavy hitters. On Thursday the 6th of August, a massive 12ft WSW swell rolls in with a 14-second period and combined energy of 4594. This is way too big for most – only for experts. The break will be handling it, but the size is extreme. Friday the 7th of August is even bigger: 12ft to 13ft SW, with energy up to 6389. This is not a day for the faint-hearted. The wave comment says it’s too big for this break, so unless you’re a seasoned charger, give it a miss. The morning of Saturday the 8th of August is glassy with 12ft SW, but same deal – big and heavy. By Saturday afternoon it drops to 10ft SW and goes glassy again – that’s the window for experts, clean and powerful.

From Sunday the 9th of August it settles back down to 7ft SW with a moderate breeze, and by Monday the 10th it’s small and choppy.

For the second week, keep an eye on Wednesday the 5th of August morning – 6ft WSW with a 17-second period and light cross-off wind, clean and 2030 energy – that’s a promising option but less certain this far out.

There’s water temperature 59° to 59°F – pretty much average for this time of year, nothing unusual.

Alright, that’s the picture. Get on it while it’s clean.
- Rusty

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