Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s talk about what’s cooking at Eerste Steen.

Right off the bat, the water is sitting at 57°, which is a couple of degrees colder than what we’d usually expect for this time of year. You’ll want a good 4/3, maybe even booties if you’re feeling the chill.

The next few days are a bit of a mixed bag, not really firing on all cylinders. Thursday the 27th is pretty marginal – we’ve got a 5ft SSW swell pushing in, but the wind is cross-onshore, and the wave energy is moderate at best (749). It’s not a write-off, but it’s not going to have you sprinting for the car park.

Friday the 28th morning is a real tease. The swell drops to 3ft, but it’s a WSW groundswell with a very long 16-second period, and the wind goes totally glassy. That’s the kind of clean, lined-up stuff that makes you forgive a smaller day. It’s a bit inconsistent, but if you’ve got a log or a fish, you’ll have a blast. Afternoon turns a bit lumpy as the wind picks up.

Saturday the 29th is a no-go. That swell bumps up to 5ft in the morning, but the wind is on it, and by the afternoon it’s a choppy 6ft with 16 mph cross-onshore winds and strong energy (1358). That’s more kite-surfing territory than paddle-surfing.

Sunday the 30th sees a bigger 8ft SW swell, but the wind is cross-shore and strong on the morning session, making it a messy, lumpy affair. The waves are too big and blown out for a good time.

Monday the 31st is a bit of a letdown. The swell is still around 7ft, but it’s onshore and the energy is dropping.

Tuesday the 1st of September looks a little better on paper with a 8ft SW swell, but the wind is still a problem, keeping it from being clean.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Wednesday the 2nd of September is a beast. We’re talking a 13ft SW swell with a 14-second period, and the wave energy is off the charts (6402). The wind is favorable, but that’s strictly for the experts. It’s too big for anyone who isn’t charging hard and knows the break. There’s a caveat with that long period – it’s going to be powerful and the sets will be spaced out, so paddling out might be a mission, but the shape could be epic at this reefy spot.

Thursday the 3rd is still massive (10ft to 12ft), but the wind is strong and cross-shore, turning it into a lumpy, messy mess.

The real standout, the one you want to circle, is Friday the 4th of September. The swell is still a solid 8ft to 10ft from the S-SSW, but the wind is clean and cross-offshore from the SE. That’s the magic combo for Eerste Steen. The wave energy is strong (2134), and the conditions are described as clean. This is a proper session for the crew who want to get barreled.

Saturday the 5th of September is a nice follow-up. The swell drops to a more manageable 6ft, still clean with cross-off winds, and the energy is moderate (812). It’s an excellent second option for a more relaxed day.

After that, things taper off. The swell drops below 3ft for a few days, and the wind turns onshore. There’s a bit of a gap of poor surf from the 7th to the 9th of September.

Then, on Thursday the 10th of September, a new pulse of long-period WSW swell (5ft, 16 seconds) shows up, but the wind is strong and cross-shore, making it lumpy. That one’s a maybe.

And finally, Friday the 11th of September is another monster day. A 13ft SW swell with clean cross-off winds. Again, experts only, and the period is a bit shorter (12 seconds) so it won’t be as clean as the 4th, but it’ll be a big, powerful day.

So, to wrap it up, the best bet is Friday the 4th of September for the best combo of size and clean conditions. If you want something smaller and cleaner, Saturday the 5th is your call. Wednesday the 2nd and Friday the 11th are for the big-wave chargers only.

Stay loose, and check the tides.

Rusty.

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