Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s see what this 16-day window holds for us.

Right off the bat, the first three days are a bit of a write-off. Monday and Tuesday are a tough mix: the swell is getting organized, but the winds are messy, and the conditions are just not there for a good paddle. On Wednesday the 9th, the swell drops right out, so don’t even bother looking at the water.

Now, if you’re patient, the first real standout shows up early on Thursday, the 10th. Thursday morning is the moment. Eerste Steen is looking at a solid 8ft swell from the SW, and here’s the kicker – it’s a long period groundswell at 16 seconds, which is proper energy. The combined energy is pumping hard at 3577, and the wind is light, offshore, and clean. This spot is fairly consistent, and the setup is right for that long-period stuff. But listen, that 8ft is solid and punchy, so this is for experienced surfers only. Beginners, sit this one out or go watch. The water here is running at 53°F, which is over 6°F colder than normal for this time of year, so that’s very unusual – you’ll want a thick suit.

The swell sticks around through Friday the 11th into the weekend, but the onshore winds start to bully the faces. Friday morning is 6ft, but that SSE wind is howling at 19 mph, making it lumpy and cross-chop. Saturday the 12th morning has a bit of a window with lighter winds and 5ft, but the wave state is still marginal.

Looking way out to the second week, there’s a big pulse forecast for Tuesday the 15th – we’re talking 13ft from the WSW with a 15-second period, putting the energy reading at a massive 6742. That is a huge amount of swell for this break. But, and it’s a big but, the wind profile is ugly – strong cross-shore winds at 28 mph with messy cross-chop. That much size with that much wind? It’s going to be a washing machine. That’s more of a kite-surfing spectacle than a paddle-surfing day. That’s followed by more blustery weather and big, choppy swell right through the 16th and 17th.

After that big blow, the swell fades out. By Tuesday the 22nd, things look like they might settle down again. The morning shows a cleaner 3ft from the WSW with offshore-ish winds, but it’s a long way off, so keep your fingers crossed that the forecasts clean up.

Summary: The one true standout is first thing on Thursday, September 10th. 8ft SW groundswell with clean, light offshore winds. For the brave, it’s the best we have.

Rusty

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