Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it’s Rusty here, and I’ve been staring at the charts for our local stretch for the next couple of weeks. Let’s get into it.

The overall picture is a bit of a mixed bag, with a slow start before we see some real size. The water is running at a chilly 52°, which is a massive 8° colder than normal for this time of year – that’s a serious, unusual cold spell, so don’t you dare forget your top and booties if you’re paddling out at Eerste Steen.

We kick things off on Tuesday, the 8th of September. The morning is a total tease. We’ve got clean, glassy conditions with a 3ft WSW swell, a period of 12 seconds, and combined energy of 476 (moderate). The wind is light and offshore from the north. It’s a real standout for the start of the period, offering clean, fun waves. By the afternoon, the wind swings to the south and freshens, chopping it up, so make the dawn patrol.

The next few days are a write-off for good surfing. Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th are plagued by cross-shore and cross-onshore winds. Thursday does see a bump in size to 8ft with a long period of 14 seconds, but the wind is messy, and the energy is strong (2346), but it just won't be clean.

Friday the 11th stays windy and lumpy. Saturday the 12th morning shows a clean-up with a cross-offshore wind, but the swell is a solid 6ft from the SW with a period of 14 seconds and strong energy (1830). The wind is better, but it’s not a total standout. Sunday the 13th holds size at 7ft, but the wind is all over the place.

The real excitement starts to build later in the week, but it comes with a warning. On Tuesday the 15th of September, we get a monster pulse. The afternoon shows a 10ft swell from the WSW with an incredibly long period of 22 seconds and massive energy (9233). The wind is a fresh cross-shore, making it lumpy. This is for experienced surfers only, and the period is so long it might wall up a bit, but the power is undeniable.

Wednesday the 16th of September is the big one for the crew that can handle it. The morning is clean with a cross-offshore breeze and a 13ft SW swell with a 16-second period. The energy is off the charts at 8169. The pointers say it’s predicted to be too big for this break, so this is strictly for experts who know the lineup. The afternoon is similar but with a cross-shore wind.

After that peak, we see a drop back. Thursday the 17th of September looks excellent for the experienced crew. The morning has clean, cross-offshore winds and a 10ft S swell, but the period is a short 8 seconds. The afternoon goes glassy with a 8ft S swell. The conditions are described as excellent for experienced surfers.

The rest of the run into the second week sees a drop in size. The weekend of the 19th and 20th of September offers some real promise for the intermediate surfer. Saturday the 19th morning is glassy with a clean 5ft SW swell and moderate energy (978), making for a very good session. Sunday the 20th morning is also glassy with the same 5ft SW swell. These are the best all-round options for the second week.

Monday the 21st gets a bit more size and a cross-shore wind, and Tuesday the 22nd and Wednesday the 23rd of September offer clean morning conditions with cross-offshore winds and a solid 6ft to 6ft SW swell. The energy is moderate to strong, and the wind is light, making for some very good, clean waves to close out the outlook.

So, the standout is the dawn patrol on Tuesday the 8th for a clean start, but the real heavy stuff is for the experts on Wednesday the 16th and Thursday the 17th of September. For the rest of us, wait for the glassy mornings of the 19th and 20th.

Stay safe out there, and don't forget the 5mm.

Rusty.

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