Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s shaping up for the next couple of weeks.

Well, it’s gonna be a bit of a slow start for the first few days. We’ve got some swell on the way, but the conditions are gonna be a bit of a mixed bag. The standout here is Eerste Steen, and honestly, the pick of the next 16 days is Friday morning the 28th of August. We’ve got a perfectly glassy morning with the wind completely off, just a light breeze from the WNW at 0 mph. Swell is a clean 3 ft from the WSW, and it’s a long period groundswell at 16 seconds, so there’s some real energy in the water (combined energy of all swells directed here is 644). The water temperature is sitting at 56°F, which is a solid 4°F colder than usual for this time of year – that’s a noticeable chill, so you’ll want a decent wetsuit. It’s a fairly exposed spot, so it’ll catch the magic. The only downside is that crowds are sometimes a thing here, so you might have some company.

Friday afternoon the 28th, the wind swings to a light cross-onshore and the swell builds a little to 4 ft, but it’s more of a marginal call with the tide, so it’s not the same quality as the morning.

Saturday the 29th, the swell keeps building. Morning looks clean with a cross-offshore SE wind at 12 mph and 5 ft swell. By the afternoon, the wind picks up and goes cross-shore, and the swell hits 6 ft. The conditions start to get a bit lumpy and the forecast is marginal.

Sunday the 30th, the swell gets bigger, hitting 8 ft in the morning from the SW, period dropping to 13 seconds. That puts it beyond beginner territory and into the range where you need to know what you’re doing. The wind is a moderate cross-shore at 16 mph, so it’s gonna be a bit of a chop fest, and the combined energy is very strong at 2265. I’d say it’s more of a kite surf setup than a paddle session, to be honest.

Monday the 31st, we’re still on 7 ft swell but a light cross-onshore wind is making things a bit bumpy. The energy is still moderate (1102), but it’s not the cleanest.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Tuesday the 1st of September, the swell is still solid at 8 ft in the morning from the SW, and the wind goes offshore from the WSW at 6 mph. Combined energy is a powerful 2223. The conditions are described as unknown but with offshore wind, this is the one to watch. It’s still a big swell, but the quality could be there. The afternoon looks similar with a 8 ft swell and offshore wind.

Wednesday the 2nd of September, the swell goes huge – 15 ft in the morning and 13 ft in the afternoon. That’s too big for this break, and the wind is a strong cross-shore, making it a mess. The score on the afternoon slot actually mentions the swell is predicted to be too big. You’d be a lunatic to go out in that. The combined energy is massive at 9840. Definitely an expert-only zone, if anyone even tries.

Thursday the 3rd and Friday the 4th of September, the swell drops back but the wind is howling from the SE at 28-31 mph. It’s cross-offshore, so the faces will be clean, but the wind strength makes it gnarly. Swell is around 6 ft to 8 ft. The conditions are poor, with the combined energy still strong (1756 to 2558). This is a kiting day, not a paddling day.

Saturday the 5th of September, the swell settles to a smaller 5 ft to 6 ft from the SSE, with a short period of 9 seconds. The energy drops to 729. The wind is light in the morning from the NNW, making it a light cross-shore. It’s marginal, but the morning is the better of the two halves.

From the 6th of September onward, things really drop off. The swell gets smaller (2 ft to 4 ft), the period drops, and the combined energy is weak (under 500 for most of it). Wind is all over the place – sometimes glassy, sometimes choppy. The 9th of September morning has a clean 3 ft swell from the WSW with a 12-second period, with a gentle cross-offshore SE breeze. That’s a little blip of hope, but it’s a very small day. The rest of the second week is mostly a write-off for decent surf, with a few poor conditions scattered here and there.

Overall, the best bet is Friday morning the 28th of August for a clean, glassy session, and then Tuesday the 1st of September stands out for some solid offshore action, but the swell is big. After that, the second week fades out. A lot of the bigger days in between are more suited to the kite crew than the paddle bunch.
Rusty

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