Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a good look at what Eerste Steen has on offer. We’ve got a solid run of surf coming up, starting this Tuesday, August 11th, and stretching right through to the end of the month.

The overall pattern is looking promising. We kick off with a decent pulse of SSW groundswell that holds for a few days, then it backs off a bit before a bigger, more powerful WSW swell rolls in towards the end of the first week and into the second. There are a few days in the middle where the conditions get a bit tricky, but there are some real gems to pick out.

For the standout, I’m looking at Wednesday, August 12th. The morning session is looking prime. We’ve got a clean 5.6ft SW groundswell with a proper 18-second period – that’s long-period energy that’ll wrap in beautifully. The wind is offshore from the east at 12 mph, keeping the faces clean as a whistle. The combined energy is strong at 2244. This is expert territory with that size and power, but the quality is top-notch. The afternoon cleans up again with a cross-off breeze and 5.9ft swell, still with that lovely 18-second period.

Tuesday the 11th is a great warm-up. A 6.6ft SSW swell with 12-second period and a cross-off ESE breeze will have you stoked for the morning. By the afternoon, the wind goes light offshore from the east, and the swell drops slightly to 5.2ft. Very clean conditions with moderate wave energy (1385).

After that mid-week peak, the swell hangs around but the wind gets more challenging. Thursday the 13th is a bit of a write-off with a lumpy cross-onshore breeze in the afternoon. Friday the 14th, however, is a hidden gem. The morning sees a light cross-off breeze from the NNE with a clean 5.9ft WSW swell. But the afternoon is pure magic – glassy conditions, no wind at all, and the same 5.9ft swell. That’s the kind of session you dream about. Moderate energy (1393).

Saturday the 15th starts clean again in the morning with a cross-off breeze, but the afternoon turns onshore and messy. Sunday the 16th is another glassy morning, with calm winds and a clean 5.2ft WSW swell. Moderate energy at 1047. The afternoon gets a light cross-onshore breeze, so go early.

Then we hit a bit of a rough patch. Monday the 17th and Tuesday the 18th see the swell size jump up to 8.2ft and 9.8ft, but with lumpy cross-shore winds and some poor conditions, especially Tuesday afternoon when a fresh southerly breeze kicks up to 22 mph, creating lumpy cross-chop. The wave energy is high (2581), but the quality drops off. This setup at a beach-and-reef spot like Eerste Steen might be more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

We get a clean-up on Wednesday the 19th with a morning cross-off breeze and a 7.2ft S swell. That’s good for experienced surfers. The afternoon fades with a short, weak 7-second period.

Thursday the 20th and Friday the 21st see the swell drop right off to around 3.9ft, with clean but weak surf. Friday gets blown out by a strong north wind.

Now, looking into the longer range – Saturday, August 22nd, we get a glassy morning with a 5.6ft WSW swell and a 15-second period. The energy is strong at 1704. That’s a promising one, but it’s a week and a half out, so treat it as a hopeful eye on the calendar.

Sunday, August 23rd, is looking like another proper standout for the second week. A clean 8.2ft WSW groundswell with a 15-second period, combined with a light cross-off ESE breeze. The combined energy is very strong at 3219. That’s expert-only territory, but if it holds, it’ll be one of the best swells of the whole run. The afternoon gets a cross-onshore breeze, so hit it early.

After that, the swell slowly fades into the following week, with smaller, cleaner days on the 24th and a final clean pulse on Wednesday the 26th with a 6.2ft SW swell and a cross-off breeze.

Read more