Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's on the cards for the next couple of weeks at Eerste Steen.

Right off the bat, the first few days are pretty grim. For the rest of today (Tuesday the 8th) and into Wednesday, the swell is tiny, only around 2ft to 3ft, with mediocre cross-shore winds and a lot of cross-chop. It’s just not worth paddling out. There’s also a big, unusual story to tell with the water temp—it’s sitting at 53°F, which is a massive 7°F colder than normal for this time of year. That’s a serious chill, way beyond what you’d usually feel.

The first glimmer of hope comes on Thursday the 10th. Swell starts to build properly, hitting 8ft in the morning from the SW with a solid 15-second period. Wave energy is very strong at (2215). The wind is cross-shore though, and the report flags it as questionable due to tides, so it’s one for the keen locals who know the bank. By the afternoon, it’s still 7ft but the period drops, and energy is still strong (1690), though wind stays cross. Expect a bit of a messy surface; not the standout.

Things get interesting from Friday the 11th through the weekend. Friday sees 6ft swell, but it’s all cross-shore wind with moderate energy, nothing special. Saturday the 12th is building again—5ft in the morning jumping to 7ft in the afternoon from the SW with a very long 16-second period. The combined wave energy is massive (3454) and wind is a light cross-shore from the SSE. This is a serious groundswell. It’ll be a bit challenging due to the long period straightening out at the beach, but for the better reef and sandbar sections, this could offer some clean, meaty lines if you pick your tide.

The real standout of the first week is Sunday morning, September 13th. The wind goes light and cross-offshore from the NNE, and we get a clean 6ft swell from the SW with a 14-second period. The report says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." Wave energy is high (1478). This is your best bet for the cleanest, most user-friendly waves of the early run. It’s the one to circle on the calendar. After that, Monday and Tuesday slump back into poor surf with onshore winds and choppy conditions.

Now, looking into the second week, we get a few more intriguing windows. Friday the 18th looks like a beauty. Morning has 8ft from the SW, light SE cross-offshore wind, and a high energy level (2254) The report calls it "excellent." Then by afternoon, the wind goes glassy, flat calm, with 8ft still pumping at 13 seconds. That's the pick of the second week—clean, powerful, and the crowd could be a factor since it’s a good one. Saturday the 19th morning also goes glassy with 6ft from the SW, which will be super fun and clean for the intermediate crew.

After that, swell gets bigger again. 21st September shows a monster 12ft pulse from the SW with a very long 17-second period and massive energy (6463). But at this size, it’s for experts only, and the report states it’s predicted to be too big for this break. Monday afternoon and Tuesday get messy with onshore winds. Wednesday the 23rd sees another 10ft to 12ft pulse, but with short 11-second period and onshore winds, the quality will be poor for a wave this big.

So, overall, don't bother with the first three days. The true standouts are Sunday morning the 13th for the cleanest combo of size and offshores, and Friday the 18th, especially the glassy afternoon, for the best all-round conditions in the longer range. Keep an eye on the local banks for those long-period swells, boys.

Rusty.

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