Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on offer for Eerste Steen over the next couple of weeks.

We’ve got a bit of a mixed bag coming in. The first few days are looking pretty average – there’s some swell around, but wind and tide aren’t lining up for clean conditions. The water is sitting at 56°, which is a solid 5° colder than normal for this time of year, so that’s a notable chill. You’ll want a decent wetsuit.

Monday the 24th kicks things off with a 4ft swell from the WSW, but a 12 mph cross-shore wind from the SSE is messing it up. The combined energy is moderate (884), but the conditions are marginal. Tuesday the 25th sees a bigger pulse of 7ft from the SW, with a 14-second period, giving it good energy (2057), but again, the wind is cross-shore and not clean. Still, it’s too big for beginners anyway.

Wednesday the 26th is where things start to look up. The morning brings a clean 5ft swell from the WSW with a 13-second period. The wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze from the ESE at 9 mph, and the combined energy is moderate (997). The afternoon holds at 4ft with even lighter 6 mph winds. This is the first real standout of the forecast. The sets will have good shape, and the water will be clean. It’s a solid window for intermediate surfers.

Thursday the 27th and Friday the 28th drop off again. The swell hangs around 4ft to 4ft, but the wind turns more onshore and choppy, with the energy dropping to the 600-700 range. Not worth paddling out for.

Saturday the 29th morning is a bit of a tease. The swell is 4ft from the WSW, and the wind is a clean cross-offshore from the NNW at 12 mph. The conditions are clean, but the energy is only moderate (700). It’s surfable, but not a standout. The afternoon gets choppy again.

Sunday the 30th brings a big jump in size – 8ft from the WSW – but it’s accompanied by strong onshore and cross-onshore winds. The energy is high (1982), but the quality is poor. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddle-surfing one.

Monday the 31st has a 7ft swell from the WSW, but with cross-shore and cross-onshore winds, it’s still messy. The energy is moderate (905). Not the best.

Then we hit a real monster. Tuesday the 1st of September afternoon sees a 10ft swell from the SW with a 14-second period, and the energy jumps to 3717. But the wind is messy. Wednesday the 2nd of September morning is a full-on 12ft swell from the WSW with a 13-second period and a clean offshore wind from the north at 22 mph. The energy is massive (3785). This is for experts only – the size is well over 8ft. The afternoon turns choppy again.

Thursday the 3rd and Friday the 4th of September are all about big, lumpy, wind-affected swell. The energy is very high (up to 5253), but the wind is strong and cross-shore, making it ugly. Not worth it for a paddle surfer.

The real gold comes on Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th of September. Saturday afternoon delivers a 8ft swell from the SSW with a 10-second period, clean cross-offshore winds from the ESE at 9 mph, and strong energy (1651). Sunday morning is even better: a 7ft swell from the SSW, with a gentle offshore wind from the east at 9 mph. The energy is 1420, and the conditions are clean. This is the best window of the entire forecast. The sets will be powerful, with good shape, and the offshore wind will keep the faces clean. It’s still a bit big for beginners, but for experienced surfers, this is the one to lock in.

Monday the 7th of September is a nice cleanup, with a 4ft groundswell from the WSW at a 14-second period and a gentle offshore wind. The energy is moderate (900). It’s a good end to the run.

Tuesday the 8th of September sees a similar 5ft swell from the SW, but with stronger winds, making it less attractive.

Overall, the standout windows are Wednesday the 26th of August for a clean, smaller day, and the weekend of the 5th and 6th of September for the best combination of size, power, and clean conditions. The big swells in between are for experts only, or better left for the kite crew.

Rusty.

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