Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Grab a coffee, let's look at what the next couple of weeks are shaping up to be for Eerste Steen.

We've got a slow start, but there’s a proper pulse of energy heading our way. The first couple of days are just a warm-up with weak to moderate energy, but from Wednesday the 5th onwards, things start to fire. The real stand-out window looks like Thursday the 6th through Friday the 7th, and then again on Sunday the 16th and Monday the 17th.

Sunday the 2nd is a bit of a limp start with 4ft of SW swell at 13 seconds and combined wave energy of 492, but the wind is a clean cross-off in the morning and glassy in the afternoon. It’s surfable but not the headline act. The water temp is 56°F, which is a full 4 degrees colder than usual – definitely a thick winter wetsuit job, don’t be fooled by the sun.

Monday the 3rd is where it starts to get interesting. The morning session looks clean with a glassy 5ft SW swell, a longer 12-second period, and combined energy jumping to 805. That’s a solid, clean wave for the intermediates. The afternoon gets a bit messy with a cross-onshore wind, so hit it early.

Tuesday the 4th is a write-off with messy onshore and cross-shore winds on a dropping swell.

Now, here’s where we talk about the proper muscle. Wednesday the 5th shows a jump to 6ft SW swell, with a very long 16-second period, and combined energy of 1745. The wind is a cross-shore though, so it gets a little bumpy. This is a sign of what’s coming.

The standout window is Thursday the 6th and Friday the 7th. Thursday morning delivers a clean 10ft WSW swell with a 13-second period. The combined energy is massive at 3095, and with a cross-offshore breeze, this is proper, powerful, and clean. This is expert territory – if you don’t have your wits about you, sit this one out. The afternoon stays clean and drops to 8ft. Friday morning is more of the same: another clean 10ft SW groundswell, 14-second period, and combined energy of 3294. This is big, clean, and heaving. For the experienced crew, this is the best on offer in the first week.

Don't even look at Saturday the 8th. That is dangerous. We’re talking 21ft to 23ft of pure, raw energy (15675 to 21152). That’s not surfing, that’s a survival mission. Sunday the 9th is still huge with 13ft swell, but the wind is clean offshore. Still, at that size, it’s only for the truly elite few.

After that chaos, things settle down. Monday the 10th is a nice break with a glassy 6ft S swell in the morning. Much more manageable.

Looking into the second week, Tuesday the 11th brings a clean 5ft SW swell in the morning with 728 energy and a cross-off wind. Worth a look.

The next real standout is Sunday the 16th. It’s a little far out so treat it as promising but not locked in, but the data shows a glassy 10ft WSW swell with a 15-second period and combined energy of 3534. That’s a serious, clean, powerful groundswell. Same for Monday the 17th with a glassy 8ft WSW swell, 13 seconds, and 2065 energy. Both of these, if they hold, will be excellent for the strong intermediate to expert surfer.

Remember, with these long-period swells (over 15 seconds), the waves will have real punch and shape, but at a beach break they can close out. Eerste Steen is a fairly exposed beach-and-reef setup, so that long period energy will be lining up nicely, but keep an eye on the banks.

Overall, don’t waste your time on the 4th or the 8th. Your two best bets are Thursday the 6th and Friday the 7th for the first week, and a potential cracker on Sunday the 16th in the second week.

Stay stoked, and don't be a hero on the big days.
Rusty

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