Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s coming. We’ve got a solid run of good-to-excellent surf kicking off tomorrow, but it’s a real mix of tricky winds and a lot of powerful, heavy swell. The water is much colder than normal at 56°F, sitting about 4°F below the long-term average, so you’ll want the thick wetsuit.

Tuesday 11th August is a nice way in. The morning at Eerste Steen is clean with a 6ft SSW swell at 12 seconds and a light ESE cross-off breeze. The wave energy is very strong (1120), and it’s a fun, manageable size for the intermediate crew. The afternoon stays clean and drops a touch to 5ft, still with the same cross-off wind – excellent conditions for those with some experience.

Wednesday 12th August is the big standout. We’ve got a proper groundswell filling in from the SW at 6ft with a very long 18-second period. That’s a long-period swell, so it’ll be chunky and powerful, with long lulls between sets – perfect for a point or reef setup like Eerste Steen. The morning has a clean offshore wind (E at 9 mph) and the energy is through the roof (2215). The afternoon holds at 6ft with the same very long period, still cross-off but cleaner. This is the pick of the whole run for the confident surfer.

Thursday 13th August stays solid but the wind gets more complicated. The morning has a 7ft WSW swell at 17 seconds – that’s a lot of power (2998). The wind is a cross-off from the NNE, so it’s still clean. By the afternoon, a light cross-on breeze kicks in, making it more marginal, but the size holds at 7ft.

We then hit a patch of marginal conditions through Friday 14th and Saturday 15th. The swell is still around 6-6ft from the WSW, but winds are mostly onshore or cross-shore, creating a bit of chop. Saturday morning 15th is the one exception – glassy conditions with a 6ft SW swell – a real chance for a clean session if you’re keen on a dawny.

Sunday 16th August is a similar story: glassy morning with a 6ft WSW swell, but the afternoon turns messy with a 7ft swell and a light cross-onshore wind.

Monday 17th August sees a jump in size to 8ft, but the wind is a cross-shore from the NNW, and by the afternoon it’s onshore. This is too big for beginners, and the conditions aren’t favourable for a clean ride.

Tuesday 18th August has the biggest swell of the run – a solid 10ft from the SW. The morning is cross-shore and choppy; the afternoon gets stronger with a 12 mph cross-onshore. That kind of size and mess is really only for experts, and honestly, it looks more like a kite day than a paddle day.

The run continues with a lot of medium-to-big swell (6ft to 10ft) right through to Saturday 22nd August, but the wind keeps swinging around. The afternoon of the 22nd sees a 10ft SW swell at 14 seconds with a light cross-shore wind – that’s a massive energy reading of 4800, but it’s only a marginal call for paddle surfing due to the size and period.

The real window to watch is Sunday 23rd August. After a lot of messy days, the morning at Eerste Steen cleans right up with a 6ft WSW swell, a light cross-off ESE wind, and over 2000 in energy. It’s clean, it’s solid, and it’s a solid option for the experienced surfer.

After that, the swell backs off slightly into the following week. Monday 24th August has a smaller 4ft SSW swell with good morning conditions, but nothing that matches the earlier standouts. Tuesday 25th and Wednesday 26th offer glassy mornings again, with 6ft and 5ft respectively, but the energy drops off.

Overall, the cream of the crop is Wednesday 12th August – that long-period SW groundswell with offshore wind is the one to circle. The Saturday morning 15th and Sunday 23rd August mornings are the other true standouts for clean, solid waves.

Rusty.

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