Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s get into what’s cooking for the next couple of weeks.

It’s a bit of a mixed bag, to be honest. Some solid swell is coming through, but the wind is going to be fighting us most of the time. The best windows are tucked away at the end of the first week and into the second week.

We’re looking at Eerste Steen first. This break is fairly exposed to a SW swell. The water is about average for this time of year. Kicking off on Sunday the 30th of August, we’ve got a strong 8ft SW groundswell with a 12-second period, and the combined wave energy is pumping at 2112 (moderate to strong). The problem is a cross-shore SSE wind at 15 mph, which is going to mess it up a bit. It’s a tough surf. Monday the 31st drops to 7ft, still a decent SW swell, but the wind stays cross-shore. The morning is marginal, and the afternoon turns cross-on and choppy.

Tuesday the 1st of September brings a bigger pulse, 8ft to 10ft of SW groundswell with a longer 13-second period. Energy is strong (2031 to 2561). But again, the wind is cross-on, making it choppy and poor. Wednesday the 2nd holds the size at 10ft with a very long 14-second period, which is proper groundswell. The energy is very strong (3499). The wind is light cross-on in the morning, which is a bit better, but that’s a big swell – over 8ft, so experts only. The afternoon is cross-shore, still not perfect.

Thursday the 3rd is a total loss. The wind is a strong breeze at 28 mph, creating a messy cross-chop. The swell drops to 6ft but the conditions are ugly. Friday the 4th is cleaner, with a cross-offshore wind from the SE, but the swell has dropped to a modest 5ft to 5ft. The energy is low (827 to 924). It’s clean, but small.

Now for the good stuff. Saturday the 5th of September is still small, but the real window opens on Sunday the 6th of September. The morning brings a 5ft SW swell with a fantastic 14-second period, and the wind is a light cross-offshore from the north. The conditions are clean, and the surf is expected to be very good. The energy is moderate (801). This is a solid, clean option.

Monday the 7th is back to small and windy, but then Tuesday the 8th of September is another standout. The morning has a 5ft WSW swell with a 13-second period, light cross-offshore wind from the SE, and clean conditions. The surf is expected to be very good again. The energy is moderate (891). This is the best session of the whole forecast – clean, manageable size, and good swell direction.

From Wednesday the 9th, the swell drops right off, with only 4ft to 4ft on offer. The wind is light, but mostly cross-on, keeping the waves small and weak. There’s a pulse on Thursday the 10th with a 5ft to 6ft long-period WSW swell, but the wind is onshore, making it messy.

The end of the second week, around Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th of September, sees a big increase in swell again, with 7ft to 10ft of SW groundswell and strong energy (1900 to 2904). The wind is cross-shore, which is better than onshore, but it’s not ideal. The size will be too big for beginners, and the chop will be a challenge. By Sunday the 13th, the wind picks up again, ruining the quality.

So, to sum it up: the best surf on offer is the clean, glassy windows on Sunday the 6th and Tuesday the 8th of September. The swell is a manageable 5ft to 5ft from the SW, with a beautiful long period and light, clean winds. The rest of the forecast is either too small, too windy, or too big. It’s not a classic run, but those two mornings will be worth the wait.

Rusty.

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