Eerste Steen Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Eerste Steen.

Right off the bat, don’t get your hopes up for the first few days. The early part of the window is pretty ordinary. We’ve got a solid pulse of SW groundswell coming through on Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd, with sets around 8ft to 10ft and a long 13-second period, but the wind is a letdown. It’s blowing cross-on from the SSW and SW, putting a chop on the surface and making it messy. The energy is pumping – combined swell energy is up around 2429 to 3208 – but the quality just isn’t there for a decent paddle. A bit of a struggle.

Now, Thursday the 3rd is the real standout in this whole outlook. The morning glass-off is the key. The wind drops to zero, and we get a clean 6ft swell from the WSW, still with that lovely 13-second period. That’s a solid groundswell, and with the water temperature sitting about average for the time of year, it’ll feel pretty normal. With the glassy conditions, Eerste Steen will be looking as good as it gets in this run. The combined energy is significant at 1444, and the waves will have proper shape. This is the one to circle. It’s an intermediate-friendly break, and with the offshore direction being SW, it’s bang on the money. The only downside is the swell size is a bit big for beginners, but for anyone who’s comfortable, it’s a winner.

Later that afternoon, things go to pot. The wind swings around to a strong SSE, picking up to 28 mph, and the surf turns into a mess. The next few days are a write-off. Friday the 4th through to the middle of the second week sees a lot of strong cross-offshore winds, mostly from the SE, which cleans the surface up but the swell drops off to between 2ft and 5ft. The energy levels are low, mostly in the hundreds, and the periods are short – under 10 seconds for a lot of it. Not worth the towel.

There is a bit of a teaser on Monday the 7th with a small 3ft SSW swell and a light offshore from the E. The wind is clean, but it’s tiny. That’s it for the first week.

We then hit a long, quiet gap. From about the 8th through to the 15th, the swell is small and weak, and the wind is all over the shop. Most days are clean with cross-off winds, but the wave heights are mostly under 3ft. The energy is low, often under 400. It’s a flat spell, plain and simple.

Then, right at the very end of the forecast on Wednesday the 16th, we get a big red flag. The models are showing a massive 12ft swell from the SSW with a 14-second period, and the combined energy is a whopping 4216. That’s a serious amount of water. But, and this is a big one, the wind is cross from the NW at 12 mph, and the swell is predicted to be too big for the break. This is expert-only territory, and even then, it’s pushing the limits. Don’t even think about it unless you’re a seasoned charger.

So, to wrap it up: the only true standout is Thursday morning, the 3rd. Get there early for the glassy conditions and that solid SW groundswell. The rest of the window is mostly a bust or too extreme. Keep an eye on the long-range, but don’t hold your breath.

Rusty.

Read more