Ammonias Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Well folks, Rusty here. Let’s be straight with you: the next week and a half is looking pretty grim for any real surf action at Ammonias (Big Island). We’ve got some swell moving through, but it’s messy, short-period stuff, and the wind is just not playing ball. The water temp is sitting at 27°, which is right around normal for this time of year, so no drama there, just don’t expect any miracles.

For the next several days, we’re dealing with a solid cross-shore breeze and lumpy conditions. The swell is there, hovering around 0.7m to 1.0m, but the period is short, mostly in the 8 to 12 second range, and the energy is all over the place. The combined energy reads 490 on Tuesday morning, and it bumps up to 744 by Wednesday afternoon, but that’s not helping since the wind is chopping it all up. Honestly, Tuesday through to the following Monday is a write-off. The waves are weak, the period is too short, and that cross-shore wind is just making it bumpy. You’d be fighting it the whole time.

Now, hold on, because things start to get interesting around Wednesday, September 23rd. That’s when the light switches. The wind drops out, going light and clean, and the swell starts to pick up some proper punch. On the 23rd morning, we’re looking at 2.1m of east swell with a period around 10 seconds, and the energy jumps to 1114. The wind is a gentle cross-offshore breeze, and the surf conditions are rated excellent for experienced surfers. This is the one to keep an eye on.

But the real standout? That’s Thursday, September 24th. Morning and afternoon, that’s our best window. The wind goes glassy – I’m talking 5 km/h, clean, no ripples. The swell is holding strong at 2.0m to 2.3m from the ENE. That’s proper size, but it’s pushing the 2.5m mark, so this is one for the experienced crew, not the beginners. The period is a touch short at 8 to 9 seconds, but with that glassy surface and the energy at 1062 to 1146, it’s going to be hollow and fun on the reef. This is your standout day.

Friday morning, September 25th, is also worth getting up early for. Still 2.3m of ENE swell, but the wind turns a bit cross-offshore, keeping it clean. It’s still good, but that Thursday glass is the magic window.

After that, the swell starts to drop off and the wind gets funky again. By the 26th and 27th, we’re seeing the size back down and the wind turning more onshore. The period also drops back into the short range, which at a place like this means it’ll be softer and less defined. It’s not going to be terrible, but it won’t be that clean, powerful push we had mid-week.

One thing to note – those bigger swells, especially anything over 1.8m, are going to be pretty fat for the beachies. Keep in mind that longer period swells are best for points and reefs, and while we have a bit of that, the short period stuff is just going to close out. Stick to the reef and pick your moments. The message is clear: don’t waste your energy on the first week, but pencil in Thursday, September 24th as the day to clear your schedule. It’s not often we get glass and size together like that.

Alright, that’s the long and short of it. I’ll see you out there when it turns on.

Rusty.

Read more