Reef Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what the ocean’s got cookin’ at this reef over the next couple of weeks. Fair warning: it’s a slow start, so don’t be in a hurry.

We’re looking at a long dry spell to kick things off. From now until September 20th, the surf is pretty much a write-off. The energy is weak, with combined swell readings barely crackin’ 120 (a paltry 52 combined energy at best), and the wind is just relentless—howling out of the north, mostly cross and messy. It’s a lot of chop and no shape. You’d be better off waxing your surfboard and just staring at it.

First real glimmer of hope shows up on Monday, September 21st morning. After a week-plus of nothing, we finally get a pulse. The swell is a clean 3ft out of the NW with a period of 13 seconds—nice groundswell energy. The wind is light out of the SE, cross-offshore, so the surface is clean. Combined energy jumps to 536. This is the standout of the whole forecast window. It’s not huge, but for this break, that’s about as good as it gets. The swell direction of NW lines up well with what this reef wants, though the optimum is SW.

If you can only paddle out once, make it that Monday morning session. It’s a fairly consistent spot, but watch for crowds—this one gets *often* busy, so get in early. Water temps are about average for this time of year, no wild anomalies to report.

After that, the rest of the week stays interesting but not as clean. Tuesday, September 22nd morning is another decent look: 4ft NW, 12-second period, light SE cross-off wind, 405 combined energy. Good fun, but not as good as Monday.

Then we get a real treat for the patient surfer. Wednesday, September 23rd morning brings glassy conditions—dead calm, wind is almost nothing out of the SE. The swell is 3ft but with a whopping 16-second period, giving it serious push. That’s a long-period groundswell, which at a reef setup like this will wrap in and hold up nicely. Combined energy sits at 414. This is your second standout: it won’t be big, but it will be *beautiful*.

Thursday, September 24th morning bumps up in size to 6ft NW, still with light cross-off wind from the SSE, and combined energy hitting 937. That’s moderate-strong energy, but 6ft is pushing into intermediate territory, and it could get a bit fat for this break. Still, if you’re competent, it’s a blast.

Friday, September 25th morning is another glassy morning (3ft NW, 15-second period), with 546 combined energy. Clean lines, no wind. Lovely.

Into the second week, things get a bit more ordinary. Saturday, September 26th and Sunday, September 27th see the swell drop off and the wind swing more northerly. Not horrible, but nothing special.

Then Monday, September 28th morning throws up a surprise: 5ft WNW, 10-second period, light cross-off NNE wind, 373 combined energy. That’s a solid, rideable morning. But by the afternoon, the wind picks up and it gets bumpy.

The very end of the window, Tuesday, September 29th and Wednesday, September 30th, pulls in bigger swell—6ft to 7ft—but the period drops to 8-10 seconds and the wind is cross-onshore or cross, making it messy. Combined energy hits 1454 on the 30th morning, but with a strong cross-onshore wind and short-period chop, that’s more for the adrenaline junkies or the kite crowd. The reef will be a washing machine for paddle surfing.

So to sum it up: the first week is a total loss, then we get three absolute gems: Monday, September 21st morning, Wednesday, September 23rd morning, and Friday, September 25th morning. Circle those on your calendar. The rest is either average or blown out.

Stay stoked, and I’ll see you in the water.

- Rusty

Read more