FA's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what the next couple of weeks are shaping up like for your local stretch.

First off, this is a pretty grim start. We’ve got a long, quiet run ahead. For the first week and a half, through to the end of September, there’s basically nothing worth paddling out for. The wave energy is weak, with combined swell energy readings barely climbing past 249, and those are paired with poor surf conditions and messy onshore or cross-onshore winds. Mostly 4 ft to 6 ft of short-period, 7-second windswell from the east-northeast, but it’s all chopped up. You’d be fighting a losing battle out there. There’s a solid gap of about 12 days where I wouldn’t even bother waxing the board.

Now, if you’ve got patience, things start to look interesting right at the tail end. The real standout window kicks off on Monday the 28th of September. We see a big jump in size, with 10 ft of east-northeast swell. The period stretches nicely to 9-10 seconds. That’s some serious juice, with combined swell energy readings in the 1600-1800 range. It’s a lot of water moving, definitely expert territory at that size, and with the wind still blowing onshore it’s going to be a bit raw. But there’s power there for the experienced crew.

The true gem of this whole outlook lands on Wednesday morning, the 30th of September. It’s still a solid 6 ft from the east-northeast, but the period bumps up to a lovely 11 seconds, giving it proper groundswell shape. The combined energy is 823, which is healthy. And here’s the real magic: the wind goes totally glassy, dead calm. That’s about as clean as it gets. The swell direction (ENE) is in line with the optimum for the spot, so it should be holding together nicely. Keep in mind, with a period that long, it might rake a bit fast across the open beach, but if you can find a corner or a bank that holds, it’ll be the session of the whole fortnight. Crowds are often a factor here, so you’ll want to be early.

For the beginners, that 6 ft day on the 30th is pushing the limit, and the 10 ft days earlier are a hard pass. The water temp is about normal for this time of year, nothing weird to report.

So, to keep it simple: the first 12 days are a write-off. Focus on the morning of the 30th of September for the best chance at something clean and lined up. The wind is the whole story there.

Rusty.

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