Rockpiles Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for the next couple of weeks in feet and miles per hour.

First up, we’ve got a bit of a quiet start. Thursday 20 August sees a small, clean swell at Rockpiles, a reef break. It’s tiny, only 2 feet from the SSW, but with a very long period of 18 seconds, so there’s some proper groundswell energy in the water. The combined energy is weak (261), but the wind is light and cross-off, making it clean. This is a spot that’s fairly consistent, but the waves are small – better for a longboard or a funboard than a shortboard. The water temp is about average for this time of year.

Friday 21 August is similar in size, around 2 feet from the SW, but the morning has a cross-on breeze (261 energy), which is a bit messy. The real gem is Friday afternoon: the wind goes glassy, the swell is still 2 feet from the SW, and the energy is moderate (312). That’s the best session of the near-term – glassy, clean, and very surfable for an advanced crew on a reef.

Saturday 22 August the wind cranks up to 22-25 mph from the ENE. The swell is only 2 feet from the SW, but the energy is moderate to strong (384-509). The wind is cross-off, so it’s clean but the waves are small and blown out. Not worth paddling out for a surf – this setup looks far more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Sunday 23 through to Monday 25 the swell jumps to 6 feet from the ENE, but with a very short period of only 6-7 seconds. That’s windswell, and with strong breezes of 22-28 mph, it’s going to be a messy, choppy mess. The energy is strong (515-597), but it’s poor surf conditions – not a good time.

Tuesday 25 has a risk of thunderstorms, still 6 feet from the E/ENE with a short period. The wind drops slightly but it’s still a marginal forecast. The energy is strong (579-526). Not great for a clean ride.

Wednesday 26 and Thursday 27 see the swell drop back to 2-3 feet from the S/SSW, with a much nicer period of 14-18 seconds. The wind is still moderate to fresh, but cross-off. The energy is strong (537-602) for the size. This is more of a hopeful period, but the wind is a bit pushy – marginal at best.

Friday 28 through Sunday 30 the swell is 2.5-3.5 feet from the E/ESE, with periods around 13-14 seconds. The wind is fresh and cross-off. The energy gets very strong on 29 and 30 August (803-982). Still, the wind is strong, so it’s poor to marginal. For experts on a reef, it could be worth a look, but it’s not a standout.

Now, here’s the highlight: from 31 August (Monday) into early September, the swell really kicks up. On Monday 31 August, Rockpiles gets 7.5-8 feet from the ENE at 13 seconds. The combined energy is very strong (1986-2053). This is solid, powerful swell. However, at over 8 feet, it’s only for experts. The wind is cross-off at 19 mph, so it’s clean, but it’s big and powerful. The optimum swell direction here is SSE, and we’re getting ENE, so it’s a bit off-angle for the break. Still, for those who know the reef, this could be a big, clean session.

Tuesday 1 September holds at 7.5 feet from the ENE, energy still very strong (1597-1610). The wind drops to moderate breeze, which is better, but the period drops to 12 seconds. Still a heavy, powerful wave.

Wednesday 2 September sees the swell drop to 7 feet from the ENE, period 10 seconds, energy strong (1003-932). The wind is moderate, cross-off. This is still good for experts, but the period is shorter, so the waves will be a bit more walled-up.

Thursday 3 September morning has 4.5 feet from the ENE at 8 seconds – short period, not great. But Thursday afternoon, there’s a pulse of 2 feet from the SSW at 20 seconds! That’s very long period groundswell, energy moderate (670). The wind is moderate and cross-off. This is a classic reef/point swell – long, clean lines. For an advanced surfer on a reef, that’s a lovely session to finish the week.

Thursday 4 September morning has 3 feet from the SSW at 18 seconds, energy moderate (757) and moderate breeze cross-off. It’s a nice tail end to the run.

So, the best on offer? Friday 21 August afternoon for the glassy, clean, small-groundswell session. And the 31 August to 1 September big ENE swell for the experienced crew. The SSW groundswell on Thursday 3 and Friday 4 September is also a real gem for those who like long, clean waves.

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