Rockpiles Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about the waves on the horizon.

The next week is going to be a bit of a grind for us, to be honest. We’re looking at a stretch of marginal surf, with the wind stuck in a cross-off pattern that’s keeping things clean but the swell just isn’t putting in the work. Don’t get me wrong, it’ll be knee to waist-high and might catch a stray ripple, but nothing that’ll get the heart racing. We’re talking about a solid 5 to 6 day lull where the ocean is just kind of flat and uninspired. It’s a waiting game.

The first real sign of life doesn't show up until Saturday the 16th. That’s when we see a proper pulse of energy arrive. Out of nowhere, the energy reading jumps to 3486, and by the afternoon it’s a strong 4836. This is the standout of the whole fortnight. We’re looking at a swell building from 8ft to 12ft, coming from the ENE with a period of 13 seconds. That’s some serious, long-period groundswell energy. For Rockpiles (a reef setup), this is what we live for. The waves will be powerful, and with the wind turning offshore on Sunday afternoon, it should be absolutely glassy and perfect.

This is advanced territory, no doubt. 12ft of solid groundswell is not for the faint of heart; this is strictly for the experienced crew. The water temp is a warm 81°, which is about average for this time of year, so you’ll be comfortable in boardshorts and a rashie.

Before that, there’s a tiny tease on Tuesday the 12th with a long-period S swell, but it’s just not enough size to be worthwhile. And after Sunday’s big day, the swell backs down and the wind turns onshore, chopping things up by Monday the 17th. After that, it looks like we’re back to a similar pattern of small, clean but weak surf leading into the following weekend, with another chest-high pulse showing up around Thursday the 21st and into the weekend. That could be a fun one, but it's a long way out, so take it with a grain of salt.

So, mark your calendars for Sunday the 16th. It’s the one day where everything lines up. Get on it early, and get the good ones.

- Rusty

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