Rockpiles Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab a coffee and listen up. This is Rusty, and I’m looking at the next few weeks at Rockpiles. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, but we’ve got a serious light at the end of the tunnel. Let’s get into it.

The immediate outlook is grim, I gotta be honest. We’re starting Sunday the 23rd and running straight through to the end of the month with hardly anything worth paddling out for. The swell is coming from the ENE, but it’s short period, around 7 seconds, and it’s being hammered by a stiff cross-offshore breeze at 25 mph. The wave energy is weak to moderate (around 608), and the water is a warm 81°, which is about average for this time of year. The comment says it all: poor surf conditions. It’s a rough stretch.

We’ll see a tiny shift late on Wednesday the 26th and into Thursday the 27th. A long-period S'ly swell (17 seconds) shows up, but it’s small, only 2 ft to 4 ft. The energy is moderate (855), and the wind is still a cross-off, so it’s clean. But the data calls it "marginal," and I have to agree. Long-period swells like this can be a bit tricky at a reef break, but the size is just too small to get excited about.

The real story, the one that’s got me watching the calendar, is the first week of September. Things start to cook on Tuesday the 1st. We’ve got a solid 7 ft ENE swell pushing in, with moderate energy (1274). The wind is lighter, but shifting cross-on, so it’s a bit choppy. Still, it’s a step up.

Then, hold onto your board. From Thursday the 3rd through to Monday the 7th of September, Rockpiles is looking like the only show in town. We’re talking a solid 7 ft to 8 ft ENE swell, with a period that builds from 8 seconds up to a very long 12-14 seconds. The wave energy is strong to very strong, hitting 2630 and even 2913. Now, this is expert territory. At 8 ft, it’s not for beginners, and with that long period, the sets will be powerful and clean.

The absolute standout morning is Monday the 7th of September. The forecast has a 10 ft ENE swell, a 12-second period, and the wind is a glassy light NNW breeze. The report says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers," and I’m all in on that. That’s a big, clean, powerful swell at a reef break. It’s a long way out, so keep an eye on the charts, but this is the one to point your car towards.

The rest of the second week sees consistent ENE swell, but the wind sticks around as a cross-off, keeping it clean but not as perfect as that Monday morning.

So, to sum it up: the next week is a write-off. The first day of September is a tease, but the real money is on the 7th. That Monday morning is the clear standout. Get your big board ready.

Rusty.

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