Rockpiles Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surfers, Rusty here. Let me paint you a picture of what’s heading our way for the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, the start of the period is a tough one. We’re looking at a bit of a dry spell for any decent, clean waves. For the first few days, we’ve got a consistent cross-off wind from the ENE at 25 to 40 km/h, kicking up a messy, short-period swell that’s just not cooperating. The water’s warm though, sitting at a lovely 81°, which is about average for this time of year.

The first real glimmer of hope arrives on Tuesday, September 1st. We see a jump in energy with a moderate combined swell energy (1016), with the swell starting to build to 7ft from the ENE. It’s still a bit short-period at 8 seconds, so don’t expect perfection, but it’s a definite step up from the junk we’ve been dealing with. The wind is still a stubborn cross-off, which keeps things from being truly great, but it’s ridable.

The standout window looks to be around the 4th and 5th of September. On Thursday, September 3rd, we see a nice shift. The swell direction swings more E, and the period stretches out to a solid 14 seconds – that’s proper groundswell. The energy is getting strong, hitting a 1030, with a clean 3ft to 4ft on offer. This longer period will shape up nicely on the reef, though the persistent cross-off wind is still the main character.

But the real highlight, the one worth circling on your calendar, is Monday, September 7th. We’ve got *Rockpiles* set to fire. The morning starts light, with the wind easing to just 6 mph from the E, creating a light cross-shore texture. Then, in the afternoon, it turns glassy. Dead calm. The wind goes to 3 mph from the E, and the report says “glassy.” That’s the word. Swell is 5ft from the ENE with a short 8-second period, but when you have absolutely zero wind, that’s the trump card. It’ll be clean, fun, and holding some good energy (531). The difficulty is advanced, and it is a reef, so keep your wits about you.

Following that, Tuesday, September 8th shows a big pulse of energy hitting a strong 1543, with a 8ft swell from the ENE. However, the wind swings onshore from the SSE, which will likely chop it up. That one is for the experts only, and even then, it won't be pretty.

So, for the one-two punch: The absolute best on offer is the glassy Monday afternoon session on the 7th. The secondary nod goes to the longer-period groundswell running from the 3rd to the 5th, offering more consistent, better-shaped waves, even if the wind isn't perfect.

Keep an eye on the forecast, things are looking up.

Rusty

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