Lucien Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s look at the charts for Lucien.

It’s a beach and point setup that’s fairly consistent and loves a southeast swell. The water’s at 23°, which is a touch warmer than average for this time of year, so the rubber might be a little thinner.

The start is a bit of a struggle. Wednesday the 29th of July is marginal. You’ve got a 2.2m swell from the southeast, but the period is short at 9 seconds, and we’ve got a cross-shore wind and light rain. The wave energy is moderate (1207), but it’s not clean.

From there, things get messy. The wind picks up from the southwest and then the north-east, blowing hard. On the 30th, we see a 1.5m swell from the southwest with a long 14-second period, which is a proper groundswell, but the wind is a fresh 35 km/h cross-off. It cleans it up, but it’s a battle.

Look at the morning of August 1st. That’s your little window. The wind is glassy from the east at only 5 km/h. The swell is 1.8m from the southeast, and the energy is moderate (492). It’s a small, clean window for a Saturday morning. Decent for an intermediate, but keep an eye on the tide.

The 2nd of August has some size with a 2.4m southeast swell, but a northeasterly cross-on wind is going to chop it to pieces. The energy is strong (1654), so there’s power, but it won’t be pretty.

Then we hit a flat spell. From the 3rd to the 6th of August, it’s a write-off. The wind is onshore from the north-east, the swell is small, and the forecasts are poor. That’s a solid four-day gap with nothing going on.

We get a little clean-up on the 6th with a south-westerly cross-off breeze on a 1.9m swell, but it’s still a cross-shore chop.

Here’s the big one. Friday morning, August 7th. We have a 3.0m swell from the south-southwest. The period is short at 9 seconds, but the wind is glassy from the east-southeast at only 5 km/h. The combined energy is very strong at 1545. This is a big, clean, powerful swell. For experts only – 3.0m is serious. The direction is a little off the preferred southeast, but the glassy conditions will make for some clean, heavy waves.

The next big one is Tuesday morning, August 11th. Another 3.0m swell from the south-southwest, with a clean 15 km/h cross-off wind from the south-southwest. Very strong energy (1680). Again, this is for the hard chargers. Clean, powerful, and big.

After that, it’s back to onshore winds and small, weak swell for the rest of the forecast.

So, for the average surfer, the best bet is the glassy Saturday morning of August 1st. For the experienced guys, lock in the mornings of August 7th and August 11th for the biggest and cleanest waves of the period. They are a week or two out, so don’t book your flights yet, but it looks promising.

Rusty, out.

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