Lucien Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s cookin’ at Lucien over the next couple of weeks.

We start off with a pretty grim stretch, to be honest. The first week is basically a write-off for any decent surf. Tuesday the 4th has some waist-to-chest high swell, around 5ft, but it’s coming from the ESE with a cross-onshore breeze that’s got it all chopped up. The water’s sitting at 71°, which is about average for this time of year, but that’s about the only good news. The combined energy is moderate (522), but the quality is just poor. Wednesday and Thursday are even smaller, and while the wind swings offshore on Thursday, the swell drops right off. Friday through Sunday the 9th is a mess of tiny, wind-battered waves or weird, long-period scraps that don’t amount to anything.

Now, hold onto your board, because things get serious around the 10th of August. Monday the 10th sees a big jump in size, but the wind is howling from the SW at 25 mph, making it look more like a kite session than a paddle surf. The energy is already very strong (3821), but it’s rough. Monday afternoon the swell hits 15ft from the S with a 13-second period, and the energy jumps to 7114—that’s some serious power. Still, the wind is strong, so it’s messy.

The standout window is Tuesday the 11th. This is the one to circle. Morning sees a massive 16ft S swell, period 12 seconds, and a combined energy reading of 12685. That’s very strong wave energy. The wind is a fresh cross-offshore breeze, keeping things clean. By Tuesday afternoon, it’s still 16ft from the S, but the wind drops to a moderate 12 mph cross-off, and the energy is still enormous at 12092. This is expert-only territory—over 8ft, it’s for the big dogs only. For an experienced surfer at Lucien, this is the best on offer, no question. The swell direction (S) doesn’t match the optimum SE, but the sheer size, clean conditions, and juice make it a no-brainer.

Wednesday the 12th is still huge, with 15ft to 16ft SSE swell, but the wind swings cross-onshore, and the quality drops. By Thursday and Friday the 13th and 14th, the swell is still solid (12ft to 8ft), but the NE cross-onshore winds are ruining the surface. The following days just fade away into small, choppy junk.

So, to wrap it up: the first week is a total dud. Don’t even bother. The real deal is the 11th of August, especially Tuesday afternoon. That’s the standout. It’s huge, powerful, and clean. Get ready for the session of the month if you’ve got the skill.

Rusty.

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