Lucien Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get into it for Lucien. We’ve got a long window ahead, but it’s a bit of a slow starter. The first real action doesn’t kick off until Monday August 31st, but honestly, it’s nothing to write home about.

The week starts with a small, clean wave on Monday. A 4ft east swell, with a period of 9 seconds, coming in at 336 combined energy. The wind is light and cross-off, so the surface will be clean, but the energy is weak (336). It’s a marginal call, not worth getting too excited about. Tuesday, September 1st, is a write-off – onshore wind and small, weak swell. Wednesday, September 2nd, brings a weird one: a 2ft SSW swell but with a very long period of 15 seconds. That’s a groundswell, and the combined energy is moderate (390). The wind is cross-off and clean, but the swell is tiny. This long-period swell needs a point or reef to show its best, but with waves that small, it’s hard to get excited.

The first real standout comes later in the week. Thursday, September 3rd, afternoon is the first time things get interesting. The swell jumps to 7ft from the ENE, with a period of 9 seconds. The combined energy is strong (871). The wind is cross-off, making for clean conditions. This is a solid, surfable size for intermediates, and the clean conditions will make it a good session for those who can handle it. Water temp is about 69°F, which is pretty average for this time of year.

Friday, September 4th, is a mess. The swell hits 15ft with a strong 11-second period, and the energy is enormous (4556). But the wind is howling, cross-onshore and lumpy. This is a full-on, blown-out mess. Only for the experienced, and even then, it’s not going to be pretty. Saturday, September 5th, is still big but messy with onshore winds. Sunday, September 6th, the wind swings offshore again, but the swell is 13ft and strong. It’s gonna be a challenge, especially with the 9-second period breaking fast.

Now, if you’re looking for the absolute best of the whole forecast, you have to look ahead to Wednesday, September 9th. This is the one. We’ve got a 13ft swell from the ESE, with a very long period of 14 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell. The combined energy is very strong (6500). The wind is light and cross-off in the morning, and cross in the afternoon, but still clean. For a break like Lucien, which is a beach and point setup, this long-period swell will be at its best wrapping around the point. This is a day for the experts – the size is big, but the quality will be there. It’s a week and a half away, so keep an eye on the charts, but it looks promising.

After that, the swell drops off quickly. Thursday, September 10th, is still solid but smaller, and the wind is light. Then from Friday, September 11th, through to the end of the forecast on the 15th, it’s a disappointing run of onshore winds and small, weak swell. The energy drops right off, and there’s nothing worth paddling out for.

So, to keep it simple: the best on offer is the Thursday afternoon, September 3rd, session for a clean, fun-size wave, and the standout expert session is Wednesday, September 9th, for a big, long-period groundswell with clean conditions. Don’t bother with the rest.

- Rusty

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