The Spot Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here. Let's get into it.

The Spot is a beach and reef setup, and it's a tale of two weeks. The first week is a slow burn, but the second week absolutely fires for the big-wave crew. We've got a serious run of solid swell coming through, but you've got to pick your moments with the wind.

Right now, the water's sitting at 70°, which is bang on average for this time of year. No surprises there.

The first few days are a bit of a struggle. Sunday the 30th has a weak 4ft south swell, but it's short-period and the wind is a messy cross-offshore. Not worth getting wet for. Monday morning the 31st is still marginal, but the afternoon starts to look a bit better. A 4ft easterly groundswell (10-second period) lines up with a true offshore wind from the SSW. The energy is still moderate (324), but that clean, offshore wind is a big plus. It's a solid, if small, session.

Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd are mostly flat or poor. Then, Wednesday afternoon is a real standout. The swell drops a bit, but it's a long-period 5ft SSW groundswell with a 17-second period and glassy conditions. The combined energy jumps to 1263, which is strong. That's a proper, clean, powerful wave for the experienced surfer. The Spot is a beach and reef, and that long period can make beach breaks wall up, but the reef section should handle it beautifully. This is the pick of the first week.

Thursday the 3rd and Friday the 4th morning are a write-off. Then on Friday afternoon, things get serious. The swell jumps to 13ft from the south, with a 12-second period. The energy is through the roof at 7068. The wind is a clean cross-offshore. This is big, powerful, and clean. Only for experts.

Saturday the 5th is a massive, stormy mess with 16ft south swell and cross-shore winds. Not a paddle-surfing day. Sunday the 6th morning is still huge at 13ft, but with a clean offshore wind. The period is only 8 seconds, so it'll be a bit lumpy and chaotic. Sunday afternoon gets blown out by a 31 mph near-gale.

From Monday the 7th through to Wednesday the 9th, the ocean is a beast. We're talking 18ft to 12ft swells and gale-force winds. This is not for the faint of heart, and honestly, the setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Thursday the 10th is a brief reprieve. The swell drops to a still-chunky 8ft from the ESE (12-second period), with light cross-offshore winds. The energy is still strong (1510). This is another good window for strong intermediates and above.

After that, it fades back into the doldrums from the 11th through the 14th. Small, weak, and onshore. Not much to report.

So, the standout windows are Wednesday afternoon, September 2nd for the glassy, long-period groundswell, and Thursday morning, September 10th for the cleaner, solid ESE swell. If you're an expert, the whole run from the 5th to the 9th is there, but you'll be battling the elements.

Rusty.

Read more