The Spot Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, coming to you live from The Spot. We've got a full 16-day window to look at, and let me tell you, it's a real mixed bag, so let's break it down.

First up, we’ve got some conditions setting up right now. The water temp is sitting at 70°, which is pretty much average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The surf kicks off on Sunday the 23rd. It's not the best start though. The Spot is a beach and reef setup exposed to the south, and we’ve got a solid 12ft SSW swell rolling in, but with a cross-off wind out of the SSW at 12 mph. The energy is massive at (3539), but the wave comment calls it marginal. So, it’s big, but it’s not going to be clean perfection. You'll find some sections if you pick your moment, but don't expect anything epic. Sunday afternoon drops to 6ft but the wind stays cross-off.

Monday the 24th is a total washout with onshore winds, so leave the board at home. Tuesday the 25th is where it gets interesting. We’ve got a 4ft SSW groundswell with a very long 16-second period hitting on Tuesday morning. The wind is a light cross-off, so the waves are clean. The energy is moderate (616), but that long period means the waves will have some shape and paddle-outs won't be too bad. This is likely the best window early on, especially for the more intermediate surfer. Tuesday afternoon sees the swell bump to 4ft with an 18-second period and even more energy (1034).

Wednesday the 26th is also solid. Morning light rain and a light offshore SSW wind at 9 mph, with that 4ft, 18-second swell. That’s clean, lined-up surf. It’s a standout for the first week. Come Wednesday afternoon, the swell picks up to 7ft from the S with an 18-second period, bringing strong energy (2469), but the wind swings to a light cross-shore, so it'll have a little texture on it. Still very surfable.

Then we hit a big dry patch. Thursday the 27th through to Sunday the 30th is just bad. Strong onshore winds from the NE at 15 to 25 mph just wreck everything. Swell drops right down, energy falls off a cliff (down to 28 by Sunday the 30th). There's nothing to get excited about there, a real blank run of several days.

Monday the 31st brings a pulse back. By Monday afternoon we have an 8ft SSW swell at a 13-second period with a light cross-off SW wind. The energy is significant (2768). The surf will be solid, but those are big numbers for an intermediate spot. The water's still clean though.

Another flat stretch runs from Tuesday the 1st of September through to Thursday the 4th. Very little energy, mostly onshore winds.

Now, the real standouts come in the second week. Look at Friday the 5th of September. Saturday morning, we get a massive 15ft SSW swell with a 15-second period. The wind is a clean cross-off from the south at 12 mph. The combined energy is absolutely pumping at (13936). This is huge, powerful groundswell. This is an expert-only window. The spot is exposed to the south, and with that very long period and the size, it’s going to be a freight train. Not for the faint-hearted.

Sunday the 6th is even bigger by afternoon. A 16ft SSW swell, same 15-second period, but with a light cross-off breeze. The energy peaks at (17003). This is monstrous. The wave comment says it might be too big for the break itself, so if you're a charger, get on it early morning before the peak, but be aware of the sheer power.

Monday the 7th still holds a 10ft S swell at 12-13 seconds, with clean cross-off winds. Energy stays high (5743). Still solid, still for experienced surfers only.

So, my pick? For the average surfer, get out on Tuesday the 25th morning or Wednesday the 26th morning. For the big-wave crew, your window is Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th of September – that is some serious, serious energy.

Stay stoked.

Rusty.

Read more