Boneyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’m looking at the charts for the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, but we’ve got some serious potential on the horizon if you’re patient.

First thing to know: the wind is going to be a real pain for a while. The first few days are pretty messy with cross-onshore breezes, and the surf is on the small side or just not clean. You’re better off waiting. The real action starts to build towards the end of the first week.

Sunday the 23rd is the first decent call. The swell is a solid 8 ft from the WSW, with a nice 13-second period from the groundswell. That’s got some grunt. The wind is light and cross-off, keeping things clean. This is a reef break, and with that longer period, it should line up nicely. The combined energy is strong at 1812, so you’ll feel the power. For experienced surfers, this is a go. The water is sitting at 58°, which is a bit colder than normal for this time of year, so don’t forget a hood if you’re sensitive.

Now, the real standout is Wednesday the 2nd of September. I’m telling you, this is the one to circle on the calendar. The afternoon session is looking exceptional. We’re talking a massive 16 ft swell from the WSW, with an 18-second period – that’s proper groundswell, very long period. The combined energy is off the charts at 14856. That’s serious, heavy water. The wind is a light breeze, and the report says ‘glassy’. This is for expert surfers only. It’s going to be big, powerful, and perfect. If you have the skills, this is the session of the forecast.

The days leading up to that are a slow build. Tuesday the 1st of September has a solid 8 ft to 10 ft swell from the SW with a 15-second period, but the wind is cross-off and moderate, so it’s clean but not as perfect as the 2nd. The 2nd of September morning is also excellent, with 8 ft swell from the SW and glassy conditions. If you can’t handle the 16 ft bomb in the afternoon, the morning session is a much safer bet.

After that peak, it gets messy again. The wind swings back onshore and the swell stays big but turns into a washing machine. Saturday the 5th of September morning has a glassy 10 ft from the SSW with a 14-second period, which is excellent for experienced surfers, but the wind is light and glassy again. That’s another good one, but then it goes onshore in the afternoon.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a write-off until Sunday the 23rd. The best of the best is Wednesday the 2nd of September, especially the afternoon. The secondary highlight is the morning of the 2nd, and the Sunday the 23rd is a good warm-up.

This is a reef break, and it’s ‘inconsistent’, so don’t expect a wave every minute. Keep your eyes on the horizon. Spend the weekend getting your gear ready.

Rusty.

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