Boneyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Howdy, Rusty here. Only one spot to look at for the next 16 days: Boneyards. It’s a slow start, so let’s get into it.

First up, Tuesday morning, 8 September, at Boneyards (reef). We’re looking at a small 3ft swell from the WSW with a 12-second period. The combined energy is weak (585). Water temp is 55°, which is a massive 5° colder than normal for this time of year – that’s a serious chill. Wind is a light cross-onshore from the NNW, so it’s a bit choppy. Marginal at best. Tuesday afternoon drops to 2ft, and the wind turns cross-off from the S, but energy is even weaker (254). Not worth it.

Wednesday morning, 9 September, improves a touch: 3ft from the WSW at 13 seconds, with moderate energy (325). Wind is a gentle cross-off from the S, so it’s clean. The report says “expect good surf conditions,” but it’s still small. Wednesday afternoon bumps to 4ft from the SW, but the wind picks up, and quality drops.

The first true standout is Thursday morning, 10 September. Swell jumps to 8ft from the SW with a 14-second period, and energy is moderate-to-strong (2590). Wind is a gentle cross-off from the SSE, so it’s clean. That long-period swell (14 seconds) should work well on this reef. Thursday afternoon holds at 8ft, but wind is a touch stronger.

Friday, 11 September, and Saturday, 12 September, are write-offs. Swell is 5ft to 7ft, but the wind cranks up to a fresh to strong breeze from the SE, making it poor. Saturday afternoon has near-gale offshore from the SE – clean but impossible to paddle into.

The second week brings the goods. Sunday morning, 13 September, is a cracker: 7ft from the SW at 14 seconds, moderate energy (1549), and a light offshore from the ESE. “Excellent for experienced surfers.” Sunday afternoon stays clean with 6ft and a gentle offshore.

The big one is Wednesday, 16 September. Morning sees a massive 13ft WSW swell with a 17-second period. The combined energy is exceptional (9753). Wind is a moderate offshore from the ESE. This is “exceptional for expert surfers” – raw power, long lines, and clean. Wednesday afternoon is nearly the same: 13ft at 16 seconds (energy 7857) with moderate offshore. That’s the highlight of the whole run, but it’s a full week out, so it’s promising, not locked in.

Thursday, 17 September, stays excellent with 7ft to 7ft and offshore winds. Friday, 18 September, goes bad again with strong cross-off winds. The following Sunday morning, 20 September, is a beauty: 6ft from the SW at 13 seconds, and the wind is glassy from the ESE. Glassy conditions at Boneyards – that’s butter-smooth. Monday morning, 21 September, also has fresh offshore wind with 6ft.

A few notes: Boneyards is an inconsistent reef break, so when it hits, it hits. That Wednesday, 16 September, is the one to target. The swell direction is WSW to SW, which lines up well with the optimum W direction. Crowds are “sometimes,” so you might see a few others, but it won’t be packed.

If you’re a beginner, steer clear when it’s over 5ft, and definitely avoid the 13ft days – that’s only for experts. For the rest, Sunday, 13 September, and Sunday, 20 September, mornings are your best for solid, clean waves.

That 55° water will bite, so suit up.

Rusty.

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