Boneyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s look at what’s on the table. We’re dialed into one spot: Boneyards. It’s a reef break that gets the swell, but it’s inconsistent, so you gotta pick your moments. And there are a couple of killer windows in this 16-day run.

It all starts on Saturday the 29th of August, first light. We’ve got a solid 6-foot swell rolling in from the WSW, with a 15-second period – that’s proper groundswell, long and powerful. The combined energy is a strong 1145, and with glassy conditions and just a light SE breeze, it’s going to be clean. The water’s sitting at 58°, which is a bit colder than normal for this time of year, a touch over a degree off. This is the pick of the early run – excellent conditions for experienced surfers. That 15-second period means it’ll be peeling nicely on the reef, but expect longer waits between sets.

Saturday afternoon gets a bit messy. The wind swings SSW and picks up to 15 mph, cross-off but bumpy. The swell bumps to 7 feet, but the energy jumps to 1524. It’s still clean-ish, but the forecast flags it as marginal, so the morning is the call.

Sunday the 30th sees the swell push up to 8 feet from the SW, with a 13-second period. The energy is strong at 2207, but the wind is a fresh SSE breeze at 19 mph, cross-off again. It’s clean, but that size is getting serious – expert territory only. Monday continues with 7-foot swell and lighter winds, but the quality drops off.

Now, the real star is Tuesday the 1st of September. Tuesday morning is the absolute highlight. Glassy – dead calm. The swell is a meaty 8 feet from the SW, with a 13-second period, and the combined energy is a whopping 2436. This is going to be a special morning at Boneyards, big, powerful, and perfectly clean. Only for experts though, that’s serious size and energy. Tuesday afternoon the wind picks up onshore, so don’t sleep in.

Wednesday the 2nd holds 10-foot swell with similar energy, but the wind is a moderate cross-off from the SSE. It’s clean but huge – well over 8 feet, so strictly for the brave.

Then we hit a rough patch. From Thursday the 3rd through to the end of the first week and into the second, the wind gets wild. We’re looking at near gale to gale force offshore winds through Friday the 4th and into the weekend. It’ll be nearly impossible to paddle into, even though the swell is still around. The energy is high, but the wind is going to ruin it.

Things calm down a bit on Saturday the 5th of September. The swell drops right off to 3 feet, but the wind goes light offshore from the ESE at 12 mph. It’s clean, and the energy is weak at 346. This is more of a longboard or small-wave option if you’re really jonesing.

From Sunday the 6th onwards, it’s pretty bleak for a few days. The wind turns cross-onshore, and the swell quality tanks. There’s a gap of poor conditions that lasts right through to about the 10th of September for any real quality.

We get another pulse of energy around the 12th and 13th of September, with the swell jumping back to 8 feet and even 10 feet from the WSW. The period is solid at 14 and 13 seconds, and the energy is strong, around 2500. But the wind is cross-onshore or onshore, making it lumpy and choppy. The 12th morning and 13th morning might have a window of light winds, but the direction is not ideal.

So, for the whole outlook: the absolute best session is the Saturday the 29th morning. Clean, glassy, a solid 6 feet with that long 15-second period – it’s a no-brainer. The Tuesday the 1st morning is the other standout, bigger and glassier, but only for the experts. After that, it’s a waiting game for a clean window.

Rusty.

Read more