Long Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ for the next couple of weeks.

First up, we gotta talk about the water. At Long Beach, it’s a nippy 55°F right now, and that’s a full 5°F colder than usual for this time of year. That’s very unusual, so you’ll be wanting a thick steamer if you’re paddling out.

Right now, there’s a bit of a gap. The first real surf on offer kicks off Tuesday morning, September 8th, but it’s marginal at best. We’ve got a 3ft WSW swell with a 12-second period, but the wind is onshore from the NNW at 6 mph, so it’s not looking clean. The combined energy is weak (585). Tuesday afternoon cleans up nicely with a solid offshore S wind at 12 mph, but the swell drops to 2ft. It’s surfable, but very ordinary.

Wednesday the 9th is similar. Morning brings a 3ft swell from the WSW with a 13-second period and a gentle offshore S breeze at 9 mph. It’s clean but small. The afternoon picks up a touch to 4ft from the SW, with a moderate offshore SSE wind at 16 mph, and the energy bumps up to moderate (404). The forecast says to expect good surf conditions here.

Now, Thursday the 10th is where things get interesting. The morning is the first real standout. We’ve got a solid 8ft SW groundswell with a 14-second period pumping in, and the combined energy is strong (2590). Wind is a gentle offshore from the SSE at 9 mph, so it’s going to be clean. This is excellent surf, but at 8ft, it’s for experienced surfers only. The afternoon holds at 8ft from the WSW, still with moderate offshore wind, and very good conditions.

Friday the 11th gets messy. The swell drops to 6ft, but the wind swings SE and strengthens to 22 mph, becoming cross-offshore. It’s clean but the quality drops right off. By the afternoon, the wind is up to 25 mph, and it’s poor. Saturday the 12th is worse – strong SE winds at 28-31 mph, with a 7-7ft SW swell. The energy is huge (over 4000 in the afternoon), but the wind is howling. It’s a write-off for paddle surfing; this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing.

Sunday the 13th is a redemption day. The morning is a beauty: 7ft SW swell at 14 seconds, light ESE breeze at 6 mph, excellent conditions for experienced surfers. The afternoon eases to 6ft with a gentle SE breeze, still very good.

Monday the 14th is a total no-go. Wind is cross-onshore from the NNW at 16 mph, making a mess of the 4ft swell. Choppy and poor. Tuesday the 15th is even worse. A massive 12ft SW swell with a very long 26-second period rolls in, but the wind is strong onshore from the NNW at 25 mph. Combined energy is extreme (11670), but it’s a washing machine. Poor surf.

Wednesday the 16th is a big one. We’ve got a 13ft WSW swell with a 17-second period, and the wind is cross-offshore from the ESE at 12 mph. The energy is extreme (9753). The forecast calls it marginal due to tide or conditions, but for experienced surfers only, it could be a beast. The afternoon is similar.

After that, the swell backs off a bit. Thursday the 17th is 7ft, clean, but marginal. Friday the 18th gets blown out again with strong SE winds. Saturday the 19th sees a return of clean conditions with a 5ft SW groundswell and a light cross-offshore SW breeze – very good.

Sunday the 20th is the second standout. The morning is glassy, with an ESE wind at 3 mph, and a 6ft SW swell with a 13-second period. Expect very good conditions. The afternoon holds clean with a gentle offshore S breeze.

The rest of the run into the 23rd gets mixed up with stronger winds and poorer conditions, but there’s still a 6ft SW swell hanging around.

So, the two best windows are Thursday the 10th morning and Sunday the 20th morning. If you’re experienced, get on the Thursday morning session for the biggest, cleanest swell. If you want something a bit more manageable, Sunday the 20th morning with glassy conditions is your ticket. Crowds are often a factor at Long Beach, so expect company on those days.

Rusty.

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