Long Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. It’s been a bit of a mixed bag lately, but we’ve got a solid run of surf coming through at Long Beach, so let’s break it down.

The water’s sitting at 59°, which is a bit colder than normal for this time of year – about one degree off the long-term average, so you’ll want a decent wetsuit.

We start off Wednesday morning, September 9th, with some small but clean waves. Swell is 3ft from the WSW, period 13 seconds, with a light offshore SSE breeze. The combined energy is weak (350), so it’s not going to blow your socks off, but it’s surfable and the conditions are clean. Wednesday afternoon picks up a little – 4ft from the SW, still offshore, and the energy climbs to moderate (404). Expect good surf, nothing huge but plenty of fun.

Thursday, September 10th, is where things start to get interesting. Morning brings 8ft of SW swell, period 14 seconds, and a moderate offshore breeze. The energy is strong (2590) – this is excellent surf for experienced surfers. The swell direction (SW) matches the optimum for this sandbar, so it’ll be well-shaped. Afternoon holds 8ft from the WSW, still clean, but the energy drops a bit.

Friday, September 11th, is a write-off. Strong cross-offshore winds from the SE at 25-28 mph mess up the 6ft to 10ft swell. The energy is still moderate to strong (1559-1541), but the wind makes it poor. Don’t bother.

The weekend goes downhill. Saturday, September 12th, has 7ft to 8ft of SW swell but the wind is gusting 25-31 mph from the SE, making it a mess. The energy is very strong (3548-5402), but it’s not for paddling – more of a kite-surfing show. Sunday, September 13th, is a bit calmer wind-wise, but it’s cross-on and onshore, so the 7ft to 6ft swell is marginal.

Monday and Tuesday, September 14th and 15th, are flat and poor. Swell drops to 3ft-4ft with strong onshore winds. Nothing to write home about.

Then we hit a standout. Wednesday, September 16th, morning: 13ft of SW swell, period 14 seconds, with a moderate offshore SSE breeze. The combined energy is massive (6583) – this is expert-only territory. The swell is big and powerful, and the offshore wind will keep it clean. If you’re experienced, this is the best on offer in the whole forecast. The afternoon stays big at 12ft but the wind freshens.

Thursday, September 17th, and Friday, September 18th, are blown out by strong ESE winds, though Friday afternoon sees a drop in wind and 3ft from the WSW, with clean conditions – a small window for a fun session.

Saturday, September 19th, is another standout. Morning: 8ft of SW swell, period 16 seconds, light cross-offshore wind, and very strong energy (2698). This is excellent for experienced surfers. The afternoon is even better – 8ft from the SW, period 15 seconds, with a moderate offshore breeze. The swell direction is right on the money. Clean, powerful, and long-period groundswell. This is the second-best day of the run.

Sunday, September 20th, is manageable but not as good. The swell drops to 6ft from the WSW, with a fresh offshore wind, but the energy is lower (1134). The afternoon sees a 10ft SSE windswell (period 7 seconds) – short period and messy.

From Monday, September 21st, through Wednesday, September 23rd, it’s poor. Strong cross-offshore winds, dropping swell (12ft down to 2ft), and no quality.

But we end on a high note. Thursday, September 24th, morning is glassy – perfect conditions. 4ft of SW swell, period 16 seconds, light wind, and energy is moderate (996). Afternoon: 5ft from the SW, period 15 seconds, with a light offshore breeze. Expect very good surf, clean and well-shaped. A lovely way to close out the 16-day window.

The best of the lot? Thursday, September 16th morning, for the sheer size and power, and Saturday, September 19th afternoon, for the combo of clean conditions and solid groundswell.

Rusty.

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