Saint Leu Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, and I’ve got the lowdown on the wave action headed our way at Saint Leu. This one is a classic point break setup, exposed to the swell and demanding advanced skills. The water temp is sittin' around 75°, which is pretty much spot on for this time of year with a slight bump warmer than usual – feels like a proper tropical swim.

We kick off this Saturday afternoon, the 12th, and it’s already lookin' sweet. Small, glassy conditions with a clean 5ft swell from the SSW. The ocean’s got a moderate amount of energy pushin' through (958), and with the wind dead calm, it’s going to be a dreamy session, no crowds to speak of just yet.

Sunday the 13th sees a jump in class. Morning glass starts with a 6ft SSW swell and an offshore breeze, the energy jumps way up (2136), and it's got some serious legs with a 17-second period. This is proper groundswell, peeling down the point like it should. The afternoon stays clean, a little bigger at 7ft, still off the wind. That’s your first real standout window.

Monday the 14th holds the quality, with clean 6ft waves in the morning and a gentle offshore kickin' in. The afternoon winds pick up a notch but stay offshore, keepin' the face clean on the 5ft sets. Good, consistent, reliable action.

Tuesday the 15th is the highlight of the first week. The morning is a bit fresh on the breeze (19 mph), but it's offshore; the swell jumps to 6ft from the SW with a massive 18-second period, delivering very strong wave energy (2621). The afternoon settles right down again, with the same powerful 6ft, 17-second groundswell and gentle offshore winds. That afternoon session is the pick of the bunch for the week – long, clean lines and plenty of grunt.

Wednesday the 16th brings the biggest swell of the pack so far: 10ft from the S. This is expert territory now, too big for the average punter. The energy is absolutely pumping (5786) and the wind is glassy or light offshore. This is a serious, heavy point wave with raw power. Not for the faint-hearted.

The run from the 17th to the 19th stays good. Thursday starts with clean 6ft waves and glassy conditions, then the wind swings offshore later in the day. Friday the 18th is a bit of a cooldown, with a smaller 4ft swell and an onshore wind in the morning, but the afternoon cleans up nicely with some glassy high-period knee-to-waist-high sets (3ft, 18-second period). Saturday the 19th is a split day: clean in the morning with shoulder-high sets, but the wind goes cross-on in the afternoon, chopping it up.

There’s a lull from the 19th afternoon through the 20th, with small swells and mixed winds. Not worth paddling out for unless you’re desperate.

Monday the 21st bounces back with a nice pulse of glassy 4ft to 4ft SW groundswell. Clean faces and the wind is perfect. A solid mid-range day.

Tuesday the 22nd through Wednesday the 23rd offers a clean run of offshore or light wind conditions with building swell. Tuesday afternoon sees a nice 4ft groundswell (18-second period), and Wednesday morning pumps up to a clean 6ft. That Wednesday morning is another quality window, with the point linking up nicely.

The end of the run gets less consistent, with the 24th offering glassy 5ft sets but some cross-shore winds in between, and the 25th peters out to tiny waist-high leftovers.

Now, hold on to your board – we’ve got a serious pulse arriving on the final day of the outlook. On Sunday the 27th of September, a massive 12ft to 13ft SSW swell hits, with insane wave energy (8294). The wind is light cross-onshore or onshore, so it won’t be perfect, but for experts, this is a massive, heavy, powerful groundswell that will barrel down the point. It’s a big, raw beast of a day.

For the everyday surfer, the standout window is Tuesday 15th afternoon to Wednesday 16th morning. If you’ve got the skills, the big stuff on the 16th and 27th is the real deal.

Rusty.

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