Saint Leu Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright crew, Rusty here. Got a solid run of swell on the cards for our local break. Let’s break it down.

First waves are up this Sunday afternoon, and the pattern builds into a powerful week. The real standout is mid-week, so keep your schedule clear. The run fades towards the end, but the main event is a beauty.

Saint Leu is the only game in town. It’s a point break, so it loves a big, long-period groundswell. The water is a warm 76°, a touch warmer than usual for this time of year, which is a nice little bonus.

We get started on Sunday afternoon (September 6th) . Glassy conditions, a light S wind, and a clean 4ft swell from the SW. The energy is building, reading 1032. It’s small but clean, a good warm-up.

Monday morning (7th) pushes up to 8ft from the SSW, but it’s cloudy with a cross-off wind. Energy jumps to 2287. By Monday afternoon, it cleans right up with a proper offshore wind and 8ft of SSW swell. The period is a nice 15 seconds, and the energy is humming at 3293. This is where the trip starts.

Now, Tuesday afternoon (September 8th) gets serious. The swell holds at 8ft from the S, but the period stretches to 15 seconds and the energy explodes to 10650. The wind is a fresh offshore from the SE at 22 mph. That’s massive energy (10650), so there’s a ton of water moving. It’s clean and powerful, strictly for the experienced crowd.

But the absolute best of the forecast is Wednesday morning (September 9th) . We’re looking at a massive 13ft of long-period groundswell from the SSW, with a 17-second interval. The combined energy is a colossal 10246. The wind is a moderate offshore from the ESE at 16 mph – absolute perfection for this point. This is exceptional, world-class surf for experts only. The afternoon is just as big, just a touch less wind.

The swell eases through Thursday (10th) and Friday (11th), but it stays clean. Thursday morning has 7ft from the SSW, and Friday brings glassy conditions with 5ft. Both are excellent for experienced surfers.

Saturday morning (12th) is glassy again with 4ft of long-period swell, but the afternoon picks up a light cross-onshore that puts a bit of texture on it. Sunday (13th) bounces back with a glassy morning and a building 6ft swell, followed by a clean offshore afternoon.

The second week settles into a more consistent but smaller groove. From Monday 14th onward, we see persistent offshore winds, mostly from the SE. Swell sits in the 5ft to 7ft range with good periods, but the wind gets stronger (up to 22 mph), so it stays clean but punchy. The best in this second week is Friday afternoon (September 18th) , with 7ft of SSE swell and a moderate offshore wind.

Things go quiet after that. By the 21st, the swell drops below 3ft with poor onshore and cross-shore winds. It’s a sleepy end, but that first week is the real deal.

Mark your calendar for Wednesday. That’s the one you don’t want to miss.

- Rusty

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