Saint Leu Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here with the long-range look for Saint-Leu. This is a proper point break, and it’s got a run of swell that’s hard to ignore.

The overall pattern is building from small and clean right into a serious pulse of groundswell. It’s an exposed spot, so it catches just about everything, and this setup is aiming right for that optimum WSW direction. The water’s sitting at about 77°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, so you can leave the thick rubber at home.

We kick off on Thursday, September 3rd. It’s small, only 2ft of swell from the SW with a 13-second period. The combined wave energy is weak (179), but the morning has a light offshore breeze and the afternoon goes dead glassy. It’s clean, but there’s not much push. Friday sees a jump in size and period. The morning is 3ft with a very long 19-second period (621 energy), but the wind is onshore. The afternoon gets bigger at 5ft, but it’s messy with a cross-shore wind. Not the one.

Saturday, September 5th, is where it starts getting good. The morning has 6ft of SW groundswell (14 seconds) with a clean cross-offshore breeze. Energy is strong (1187). The afternoon drops slightly to 5ft, but it stays clean. Sunday the 6th is a gem for the everyday surfer: 4ft swell, glassy conditions all day, and moderate wave energy (870-994). This is the kind of session where you lose track of time.

Then Monday the 7th cranks up. The morning sees 8ft of SSW groundswell (15 seconds) with a clean cross-offshore wind. The energy jumps to 2746. This is getting into advanced territory. Tuesday the 8th, the swell is 12ft, period 15 seconds, and the wind is offshore all day. The morning energy is a hefty 5950, and the afternoon blows that out to 8381. The Wednesday the 9th is the absolute standout. The morning has 13ft of SSW groundswell with an 18-second period. The energy reading is 8893, which is massive. The wind is light offshore, which is a dream. This is a big, powerful groundswell hitting a point break, so the sets will be proper and the gaps long. This is expert territory; 13ft is only for the bold.

After that peak, it slowly winds down. Thursday the 10th is still very good with 6ft and glassy conditions in the morning. Through the second week, we see multiple days of chest-to-head high swell with clean winds. The 6ft on Tuesday the 15th is a solid option, and the 4ft on Friday the 11th with glassy conditions is a nice clean smaller day.

There is a big spike again on Wednesday, September 16th. The swell is predicted to hit 16ft from the SSW with an 18-second period. The energy is 16543, which is extreme. The wind is offshore. For a point break like Saint-Leu, that’s a serious, serious day. The morning might be too big for the break itself, but the afternoon with a gentle offshore should be an exceptional, world-class session for experts only. The last few days ease back, with the 17th offering 10ft and clean conditions, and the 18th dropping to a clean, manageable 6ft.

Rusty.

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