Thousand Steps Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty comin' at ya from the desk. Let's talk about what's on the cards for our local stretch.

Alright, so we’re looking at a bit of a slow start here, but don’t let it get you down. The first week and a bit is a write-off, honestly. We've got a long stretch of poor conditions with nothing worth paddling out for from now until late in the second week. The winds are mostly cross or cross-onshore, and the surf is just small and messy. It’s a proper lull. But hang in there, because it looks like things finally start to turn around as we head into the weekend of the 19th and beyond.

Our one and only spot on the menu is Thousand Steps. It's a reliable reef set-up, very consistent, and exposed to the SW swell. The water temp is sitting at 70° right now, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year, so that’s a nice bonus when you finally get in.

The first real glimmer of hope shows up on Saturday morning, September 19th. We've got a 2ft SW swell rolling in with a solid 18-second period. That's a long-period groundswell, meaning proper lines and energy, though at this size it won't be too heavy. The wind is forecast to be glassy – absolutely dead flat. That's a huge positive, and it should make for some clean, fun little waves. The combined swell energy is moderate (367). It’s not going to be pumping, but after the drought, it'll feel like a blessing.

Then, as we move into the final weekend on Saturday morning, September 26th, we get another shot. Again, a small 2ft SW groundswell with a very long 19-second period. The wind is looking glassy again. This is another window for a clean, early morning session. The energy is moderate (268). For a reef break like Thousand Steps, that long period can really help the waves stand up and offer a nice, long ride.

If you’re a beginner, this is all small enough (under 5ft) to be manageable, but keep in mind the long-period swells can be a bit more powerful and the sets come in less frequently, so the paddle out is easier but the wait between waves is longer. Crowds are possible here, so get in early for that glass.

So, the standout is clear: get yourself down to Thousand Steps on the morning of Saturday the 19th, or the morning of Saturday the 26th, for some glassy, clean little rollers. The rest of the time, save your energy.

Rusty.

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