Stinson Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ at Stinson Beach.

First thing’s first, the water is a balmy 63°F right now, which is a solid 5°F warmer than normal for this time of year. That’s a real treat, feels like summer’s hanging on.

This 16-day window has a rough start, I’m not gonna lie. The first few days through the 12th are a mess. We’ve got some SW swell, around 2ft to 3ft, but the wind is mostly cross or cross-on, and the quality is just poor. The combined energy sits between 378 and 676 (moderate), but it’s not doing us any favors with the wind chop. You’d be fighting an uphill battle.

Saturday the 12th gets a bit bigger, up to 7ft from the WNW, but the period drops to a weak 6-7 seconds and the wind is a fresh 19 mph cross-on. That’s a lumpy, choppy mess. More of a kite surfing session than a paddle surf.

The First Standout: Sunday Morning, September 13th
Alright, we finally get a break. Sunday morning the 13th, the wind goes glassy, and the swell is 5ft from the NW. The period is still short at 7 seconds, so it’ll be a bit fat and soft, but it’ll be the cleanest we’ve seen. The combined energy is 394 (moderate). This is the best option for a beginner, as the size is manageable and the glassy conditions will make it look like a mirror. Just be aware it’s a fairly consistent break, and crowds can show up sometimes, so get out early.

The Second Standout: Monday Morning, September 14th
Monday morning the 14th is a repeat of the magic. Glassy winds again, with a slightly better swell at 5ft from the WNW and a period of 9 seconds. The energy bumps up to 537 (moderate). This one has a little more push to it, and the conditions will be clean. It’s the best combination of size and wind in the first week. For a beginner, 5ft is getting a bit punchy, but a solid intermediate will have a blast.

The Gap & The Long-Range Promise
After that, the surf drops off again. The week of the 15th through the 19th is mostly poor with cross-onshore winds, though the 19th sees a 7ft lump from the WNW that’s just too messy and big for the average surfer. There’s a bit of a dry spell.

Then on Sunday morning, September 20th, we get another glassy window with a 2ft SW swell, but the energy is a decent 516 (moderate). It’s small, but clean.

The Best of the Second Week: Wednesday Morning, September 23rd & Thursday Morning, September 24th
This is where it gets interesting. The long-range models are hinting at some real quality. On Wednesday morning the 23rd, we’ve got glassy conditions, a 3ft swell from the WNW, and a period of 11 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell with good shape. The combined energy is 441 (moderate). This one is a standout for the long-range.

Then Thursday morning the 24th is a repeat: glassy, 3ft from the WNW, but with a 10-second period. The energy is lower at 330, but the conditions are going to be absolutely perfect for a long, clean session.

These last two sessions are the real highlights of the whole forecast. The swell direction (WNW) is a solid match for the optimum SW direction, and the glassy wind will make it a dream. It’s a week away, so don’t lock it in, but it looks promising.

Rusty out.

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