Stinson Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s cooking at Stinson Beach. We’ve got a real mixed bag over the next couple of weeks, but there are definitely a few windows to get excited about.

The pattern starts with a solid pulse of long-period SSW groundswell that’s already in the water. This is a nice, clean entry for the week, but the window is narrow. The real standout, and the one you want to circle on your calendar, is the morning of Monday the 14th of September. That’s shaping up to be the pick of the entire forecast. But we’ll get to that.

First up, Monday the 7th is a gem. The morning is glassy with a clean 3 ft SSW swell pushing in from 14-seconds. That’s a beautiful, long-period groundswell. The water is sitting at 63°, which is 5° warmer than normal for this time of year – that’s very unusual, so you’re in for a treat. The combined energy is moderate (467). The wind is dead calm. It’s going to be a dream session for the beginners out there, as the size is perfect. Just be mindful, the crowds are possible here. The afternoon goes cross-onshore, so get it while it’s glassy.

Tuesday the 8th morning is another glassy winner, with a clean 3 ft SSW swell and a 12-second period. The energy is a bit lighter (372), but still plenty of fun for a log or a mid-length. The morning is the only time to go, as the wind switches and ruins the afternoon.

Wednesday the 9th morning is tiny, with only 2 ft of SW swell, but the period is very long at 19 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell, but it’s so small it’ll be mushy and mostly for the longboard crew. The energy is weak (316).

Now, the pattern gets messy from Thursday the 10th through to Monday the 14th morning. The wind is mostly onshore or cross-shore, and the swell is a mix of short-period, wind-affected junk. The exception is the morning of Sunday the 13th. The swell jumps to 6 ft from the NW, but it’s a short 8-second period, so it’s going to be a bit of a close-out mess. The wind is glassy, which is a positive, but that short period makes it tricky for the banks. It’s a looker, but not a classic.

The big one. Monday the 14th of September morning. The combined energy of all swells is a powerful 1025, which is strong energy. There’s a 7 ft WNW swell, but the period is a short 8-seconds. Now, normally that’s a red flag, but the wind is glassy, dead calm. That’s a serious trade-off. The swell is over 5 ft, so it’s getting too big for beginners. It’s a solid size for intermediates, but the short period means it’ll be a bit lumpy and fast on the take-off. This is a morning for the experienced crew who want some punch.

After that, the week of the 15th to the 21st is a long, frustrating stretch. The swell drops, and the wind is almost constantly cross-onshore or cross-shore. There are a few mornings with light winds, but the swell is tiny and weak. The 16th of September morning has a glassy 1 ft SW swell with a 16-second period – that’s all long-period fizzle. The energy is weak (164).

Finally, we get another glimmer on the morning of Monday the 21st of September. A nice 3 ft SW swell, 18-second period, glassy morning. The energy is moderate (527). It’s a clean, long-period groundswell. But the real sleeper, the one that could be even better, is the morning of Tuesday the 22nd of September. That morning has a glassy, dead calm wind, a 5 ft W swell with an 11-second period, and a combined energy of 806. That’s a solid, clean, moderate-sized swell with a good period. That’s a proper morning session waiting to happen. The afternoon goes onshore, so it’s a morning mission.

So, to sum it up: Monday morning the 7th is your immediate, clean, fun-sized classic. But the absolute standout is the morning of Monday the 14th of September for the powerful, glassy, punchy combo. The morning of Tuesday the 22nd of September is a promising long-range spot to keep an eye on. The rest of the time? You’re fighting the wind or waiting for tiny glassy windows.

Rusty.

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