Sixtynine Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, and I’ve got the word on the surf for the next couple of weeks. Let’s get straight into it.

First up, we’re looking at a bit of a flat spell. For the first few days, there’s nothing doing. The ocean’s got no energy for us, so you can leave the boards in the shed for now. We’ve got a stretch of calm, glassy conditions on Saturday the 5th, but there’s simply no swell to work with. It’s a tough start.

Now, the real action looks like it’s going to fire up on Monday the 7th of September. That’s when we get a proper pulse of swell from the SW pushing in at 6 ft, with a long period of 14 seconds. The combined energy is massive at (1459). It’s a groundswell, which means it’s got some serious push and shape, but at that size, it's going to be a bit much for the beginners. The wind is light and onshore in the morning, so it might be a little crinkly, but the afternoon cleans up to a cross-on breeze. The wave heights are going to push up to 10 ft in the afternoon, and the energy skyrockets to (3956). That’s a solid, thumping swell. This is the standout for the whole period. The water temp is sitting at 82°, which is pretty normal for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The spot to be is Sixtynine. It’s a fairly exposed joint that handles the WNW swell direction well, and this SW swell is in the right ballpark. It’s a consistent break and it’s not going to be too crowded, but you might see a few others out there. The wind is light and cross-off on the Friday before, but by Monday, the onshore breeze might make it a bit lumpy in the morning. The afternoon session, though, with that 10 ft of SW swell, that’s the one to aim for.

After that, the swell drops off quickly. Tuesday the 8th sees a smaller 5 ft W swell, but the wind is onshore and the conditions are poor. By Wednesday, it’s flat again and we’re back into a long stretch of no real surf. The energy just isn’t there for the rest of the week or the following week. There are a few tiny pulses of long-period SW swell, like 1.0 ft with a 16-second period on the 10th, but that’s just a whisper. The energy is weak (42), and it’s not worth paddling out for.

The second week is a write-off for surf. From the 9th of September right through to the 18th, we’re looking at tiny, unrideable waves. The wind is mostly light, and there are some glassy afternoons, but with no swell to speak of, it’s a flat patch. The 15th of September has a 1 ft SW swell with a 21-second period, but the energy is still low (170) and the wind is onshore. Not a chance.

So, to sum it up: save your energy for that Monday the 7th of September. The morning is okay, but the afternoon is the highlight. Everything else is a flat, quiet stretch. The wait will be worth it.

Rusty.

Read more