Rockaway Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s get into it.

The next couple of weeks at Rockaway are a mixed bag. We’re looking at a lot of small, messy days early on, but the second half of the period has a couple of real standouts that should get the stoke levels up. There’s a noticeable gap in quality for the first week, with only brief windows of clean surf.

Right now, the water temp is sitting at 61°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year – not a massive anomaly, but enough to make a difference in your wetsuit choice.

Tuesday, September 1st through Thursday, September 3rd is mostly poor to mediocre. Swell is tiny, mostly around 2 ft to 2 ft from the WNW or SW, with short periods. Cross-shore winds are spoiling things. The afternoon of Thursday the 3rd does see a bit of a bump: 5 ft from the WNW with a light cross-off breeze, giving cleanish conditions, but it’s not a standout.

Friday, September 4th has a bit more size – 5 ft from the NW in the morning – but it’s onshore. The combined energy jumps into the strong range (626), but the wind kills it. That afternoon, there’s a 3 ft swell from the SW with a very long period of 17 seconds, and the energy is very strong (1016), but it’s chopped up by a moderate cross-onshore. What a tease.

The weekend is a write-off. Saturday and Sunday are small, cross-onshore or onshore, and just not worth it.

Now, Monday, September 7th is where we get a little glimpse of hope. The morning is glassy – dead calm wind of 5 km/h (3 mph) from the NW – with a 2 ft groundswell from the SW. The period is a solid 14 seconds, and combined energy is moderate (172). It’s surfable and clean, but tiny. Still, for a morning session, it’s a sweet little window.

Tuesday, September 8th sees a solid pulse: 7 ft from the WNW in the morning. That’s a bit chunky for beginners. Combined energy is very strong at 762. But the wind is a gentle cross-shore, so expect some chop. This is more for the experienced crew.

Wednesday, September 9th is a classic Rockaway morning. Glassy, with a 2 ft groundswell from the SW, period of 19 seconds – that’s very long period energy. Combined energy is moderate (356). It’ll be clean, but with a period that long, the sets will be widely spaced, and it’s gonna be better on a reef or point than a beach break peak. A solid, quiet session for those who know the bank.

The rest of that week and into the next is small and mediocre again, with poor conditions. Nothing to write home about.

But then we get to the real standouts. Tuesday, September 15th morning. Glassy as can be, 5 ft from the NW. Period is short at 7 seconds, so it’s windswell, not groundswell, but combined energy is strong at 607. The wind is dead calm. That’s clean, punchy beach break waves. This is the one for intermediate and above.

And then, the absolute best on offer: Wednesday, September 16th morning. This is for experts only. 8 ft from the NW, glassy wind of 5 km/h (3 mph). Period is 8 seconds. Combined energy is through the roof at 1705. That’s massive, powerful, and clean. If you’ve got the skills and the board for it, this is going to be an unforgettable session. The afternoon drops to 10 ft but gets a cross-onshore, so the early morning is it.

So to sum it up: Don’t bother with the first week. The glassy mornings on Monday the 7th and Wednesday the 9th are small but clean. The real scores are Tuesday morning the 15th for solid clean surf, and Wednesday morning the 16th for big, powerful, glassy waves for experts only. Keep an eye on that forecast, because long-range calls can shift, but that setup looks absolutely prime.

Rusty.

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