In Betweens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s take a good look at what’s coming up for In Betweens.

This is going to be a pretty grim run for a while. Expect a long dry spell with nothing really surfable for over a week due to strong onshore winds from the ESE and ENE that’ll mess up what little swell there is. The water temp here is sitting at 81° - about average for this time of year, so at least you won’t be freezing while you’re sitting there frustrated.

The first few days – Sunday the 16th through Wednesday the 19th – are a write-off. You’ve got stormy weather on Sunday with ESE winds howling at 25 mph, creating a really messy, cross-onshore chop. The combined energy of the swells is very strong (2287), but it’s just raw, ugly power. Not worth paddling out. Monday and Tuesday stay clean-looking but the winds are still strong from the ENE, and the swell energy drops (579 down to 346), but the swell’s too short-period and weak to form anything decent. Wednesday is the same story – small (4 ft), weak (342), and not breaking cleanly.

Thursday the 20th morning is the first faint glimmer. The swell from the SSW at 2 ft has a long period of 18 seconds – a proper groundswell – and the winds ease to a gentle breeze (9 mph) with offshore conditions. Combined energy is low (264), but for a reef setup like In Betweens, those long lines could wrap in and offer a few rideable waves. This is the best on offer in the first half of the forecast, but barely a standout. It’s more of a “if you’re desperate” situation. Crowds are likely here, and the break is fairly consistent, so don’t expect total solitude.

From the 21st through the 23rd, it’s back to marginal or poor surf. Light cross-shore winds on Friday bring tiny, weak swells (2 ft). The energy stays low (396 to 276). By the 22nd and 23rd, the ENE winds pick back up to a fresh breeze (19-22 mph), and the surf quality tanks again.

Now, something interesting happens in the second week. Starting the 24th, the swell slowly builds, and by the 27th of August and beyond, we start seeing some solid numbers. But and it’s a big but – the wind stays relentless from the ENE at 22 to 25 mph, which is cross-offshore, keeping the waves clean but also pushing hard. The swell height climbs from 6 ft up to 10 ft by the 29th, with strong wave energy (up to 1548). But the period is short (7-8 seconds), meaning it will be bouncy, fat, and a real battle for beginners. With 8 ft to 10 ft swells, this is strictly for experts.

The absolute best bet in this whole outlook falls on Saturday the 29th and Sunday the 30th. You’ve got a solid 10 ft swell from the ENE, with the combined energy cranking (1342 to 1548), and moderate to fresh breezes still from the ENE keeping the surface clean. At In Betweens, this swell direction isn’t optimum (it wants a SSE swell), but on a reef setup with that much energy, there will be some thick, powerful barrels. It’s not for the faint of heart – this is proper, heavy surf for experienced surfers only. Crowds are possible here, and with this much size, it’s likely to draw a crew of chargers.

For the last day of the month, Monday the 31st, the swell drops back to 4 ft but the period lengthens to 13 seconds. ENE winds ease to 12-16 mph, and while it’s still not perfect, this might offer a last few clean, manageable waves before the pattern changes.

Bottom line: this is a long, quiet start. Don’t even bother until Thursday the 20th for tiny, clean waves. If you’re an expert, pencil in the 29th and 30th – that is your window.

Rusty.

Read more