In Betweens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright crew, Rusty here. Let’s cut to it—this forecast for the In-Betweens is a tough one. We’re looking at a long stretch of mostly so-so waves, with just a couple of bright spots way down the line.

The wind is the main villain here. We’ve got a persistent ENE breeze, blowing cross-off and often at a fresh clip, for the first week and a half. It keeps the surface clean, but the swell is just not cooperating. Starting Tuesday morning, we’ve got a 6ft easterly swell, but it’s a short period of 7 seconds and the combined energy is moderate (562). The water is a warm 81°, which is about average for this time of year, so the wetsuit stays in the car.

The big problem is the swell direction. The In-Betweens really want a SSE swell to line up right, and we’re mostly getting E and ENE. That means poor surf and scores of zero for the first few days. The energy fluctuates, hitting a moderate 833 on Thursday morning, but the period is long (17 seconds) and the direction is all wrong, so it’s just a jumbled mess.

We go through a whole run of days where the surf is there, but the quality is never there. The swell hits 7ft on Sunday, 30th August, but it’s still that short, wind-affected ENE pulse. It’s the kind of stuff that’s just too lumpy to get stoked on. The wind stays on it, blowing a steady 18-22 mph.

The first real window opens on Wednesday, 2nd September. The swell drops, but the wind finally eases to a gentle 9 mph cross-off in the afternoon. The swell switches to a 3ft southerly with a long 16-second period, pushing the energy to a moderate 584. The spot scores a 3, which is the best we’ll see for a while. That afternoon is the standout of the first two weeks. It’s small, but it’ll be clean.

After that, it’s back to the grind for a few more days before the real potential shows up. The period from Saturday, 5th September, to the end of the forecast starts to build some serious energy. That Saturday afternoon brings a 6ft swell from the ENE with a period jumping to 11 seconds, and the energy hits a strong 1078. The wind is still a moderate cross-off, and the score climbs to a 2. Then Sunday, 6th September, is the one to circle. We’re looking at consistent 6-6ft ENE swells with a period of 11-12 seconds. The combined energy is very strong, hitting 1621 on Sunday morning and 1358 in the afternoon. The wind is a manageable 12 mph cross-off, and the scores hit a 3. This is the best chance for a proper surf. The long period will make the waves punchy, and with the ENE direction, it should set up decently on the reef, though long-period swells can sometimes race through on beach breaks.

Monday, 7th September, is a close second. The swell drops to 5-5ft, but the period stays solid at 11 seconds, and the wind is light ESE at 6 mph, making for a clean, light cross-shore. The energy is still strong, around 1006-1088. That’s promising.

The last couple of days show another building pulse. By Wednesday, 9th September, we’re looking at 7-7ft ENE swell with an 11-second period and very strong energy (1450). The wind is moderate cross-off, but at over 7ft, this is strictly for the experts. It’s a good note to go out on, but it’s a long wait.

So, the bottom line: the first two weeks are a grind. The standout is Wednesday, 2nd September, for a small, clean afternoon session. The absolute best on offer is Sunday, 6th September, with strong, consistent groundswell and manageable wind. It’s a long-range call, so keep an eye on it, but that’s the one to mark on the calendar.

Rusty.

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