In Betweens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s get stuck into what’s shaping up for In Betweens over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, we’re looking at a pretty grim stretch for the first week or so. For the next few days, the wind is hammering in from the ENE at 22 to 25 mph, and while it’s technically cross-off, the swell is a short, weak 5 ft to 6 ft with a period of only 7 seconds. The combined energy is in the moderate range (533 to 649), but the wave quality is just poor. There’s really nothing to get excited about here. The water temperature is sitting at 81°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year, so no surprises there.

Late on Wednesday the 26th, we start to see a change. The swell direction swings around to the south, and the period jumps to 18 seconds – that’s proper groundswell. The height drops to 2 ft, but the energy bumps up (681) and the conditions are clean. The wind is still a fresh cross-off from the ENE, so not ideal, but it’s a move in the right direction. This marginal window continues through Thursday the 27th with a 4 ft south swell at 17 seconds (energy 855), and into Friday the 28th, but the energy starts to fade (409-592). The wind never lets up enough to make it a standout.

We hit a bit of a lull over the weekend of the 29th and 30th, with the swell dropping back to short-period ENE junk at 5 ft and energy around 500-600. The wind is still fresh, and the surf is marginal at best. By Monday the 31st, the swell is tiny – 2 ft – and the end of the first week looks like a write-off.

Now, the second week opens up with something that has my attention. On Tuesday, September 1st, the swell jumps to 7 ft from the ENE with a period of 9 seconds, and the combined energy rockets up to 1274-1280 – that’s strong. The wind is still a moderate cross-off in the morning, but by afternoon it shifts to a gentle cross-onshore, which will mess with the face. The quality is still marked as marginal, but the size is there. It’s not the best, but it’s a pulse.

The real standout, and I mean the one you circle on the calendar, comes on Monday, September 7th. The morning sees a 8 ft ENE swell at 12 seconds, with energy at a massive 2630. The wind is a near-calm 3 mph from the northeast, keeping it cross-off and clean. Then the afternoon? Absolute magic. The wind goes glassy, swinging to the NNW at 3 mph, and the swell pushes up to 10 ft with the same 12-second period. The energy is a staggering 2913. This is excellent surf, but it’s only for experienced surfers – at 8 ft to 10 ft, it’s too big for beginners. The long period (12-13 seconds) will see the waves breaking a bit more straight at the beach, but with the glassy conditions and the strong energy, it’s going to be a serious session for those who know what they’re doing. Crowds are listed as “sometimes,” so you might have some company, but with the quality on offer, it’ll be worth it.

Everything else in the second week is a supporting act. The 3rd to the 6th of September has consistent 7 ft to 8 ft ENE swell (8-14 second period) with energy in the 1000-2300 range, but the wind is always a fresh cross-off, keeping it clean but not as pristine as that Monday. The 2nd of September is a drop back to a 3 ft south groundswell, which is a bit of a tease.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a write-off with no real recommendations. The second week builds nicely, but the one true standout is Monday, September 7th – that’s the day to be out at In Betweens, when the glassy conditions and the solid 10 ft groundswell line up. Keep an eye on that forecast, because it could be a cracker.

Rusty.

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