In Betweens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break this down in feet and miles per hour for the crew who think that way.

We’re lookin’ at In-Betweens for the next 16 days, and honestly, the first week is a bit of a struggle. The swell shows up, but the wind just won’t play nice.

The first surf we can talk about starts Tuesday, September 1st. Swell’s about 6.2ft from the ENE, but that NE wind is blowin’ 22 mph, cross-off. Wave energy is moderate at best (895), and with a short period of 8 seconds, it’s gonna be junky. Water temp is 80.8°, right where it should be for this time of year.

Wednesday through Friday, September 2nd to 4th, the swell builds to 8.2ft, and the energy climbs into the strong range (over 1000). But that wind is crankin’ at 25 mph from the ENE with a period of just 7-8 seconds. The reef is exposed, and while the cross-off wind keeps the surface looking clean, the wave shape is just poor. Honestly, this would be more fun on a kite than a surfboard. The scores for these days are terrible, so save your energy.

Saturday and Sunday, September 5th and 6th, the period jumps up to 13-14 seconds – that’s real groundswell. Swell holds around 7.9ft, and the energy is strong to very strong (2765 to 2131). The wind drops to 15-19 mph, still cross-off, so it’s clean. But this is a beginner reef, and 7-8ft with that kind of power is going to be a handful. Only the experienced guys should even think about it, and even then, the wind is still fresh enough to make paddling a battle.

Monday, September 7th, the wind eases to 9 mph from the ESE, but now it’s cross and cross-on. Swell is still 6.9ft from the ENE at 12 seconds. That cross-on chop will make it bumpy and frustrating.

Tuesday, September 8th afternoon is the first real glimmer of hope. The swell direction swings to the WSW at 7.9ft with a 14-second period, and the energy peaks at 3514. The wind drops to 12 mph from the ENE, back to cross-off, so it’s clean. The optimum direction for In-Betweens is SSE, so that WSW is a bit off, but with that size and period, the reef should still produce some solid walls. It’s the best in that first week, but it’s still called “marginal” in the notes. I’d give it a 4/10 for what’s on offer.

From Wednesday, September 9th, through the start of the second week, it goes quiet. Swell drops to 5.9-7.5ft, the period falls back to 8 seconds (wind swell junk), and the wind is back up to 19-25 mph. That’s a solid 4- to 5-day stretch of nothing worth paddlin’ for.

Now, Sunday, September 13th – that’s the one. Sunday morning we’ve got 6.9ft from the ENE, 11-second period, and a light 9 mph wind from the east, cross-shore. The energy is strong at 1859. But Sunday afternoon is the moment: 6.9ft, same direction, same period, wind drops to just 6 mph from the east, cross-off, glassy clean. The notes call it “excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers,” and I agree. That 11-second period means you’ll get lulls between sets, so paddling out is easier. For a surfer who knows the reef, that Sunday afternoon window (September 13th) is the standout of the whole 16 days.

Monday the 14th still has 7.2ft from the ENE at 11 seconds, but the wind swings SE and cross-on, so it gets choppy. Tuesday the 15th sees the swell drop to 3ft but with a crazy 21-second period from the SW. The energy is moderate (700). The wind goes light. Tuesday afternoon, it goes glassy with a 3ft SSW swell at 20 seconds – beautiful but tiny. Great for the longboard or a foil.

That long-period groundswell carries into Wednesday, September 16th, with 3.3ft and 3ft swells from the SW and SSW, 18-20 seconds, light offshore winds. Clean and small, but that long period might give the reef a little extra punch.

Bottom line: the best surf is Sunday afternoon, September 13th, at In-Betweens. Clean,

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