In Betweens Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let me tell you how it is for In Betweens over the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, it’s a tough stretch to start. There’s really not much to get excited about at all for the first week. The surf that’s there is pretty messy, and the winds are just blowing that cross-off all day long from the ENE, sometimes gusting to 22 mph. That constant breeze is making things lumpy and hard to read. The water temperature is sitting at 81°, which is pretty normal for this time of year, so you can’t complain about that.

We start off on Thursday the 27th with a bit of a South swell around 4 ft. The period is a solid 17 seconds, so there’s groundswell energy there, but that wind just ruins it. Combined wave energy is moderate at 922. For a beginner-friendly reef break, it’s just not the kind of day you paddle out for. It stays like this through the end of August and into the first days of September – small, choppy, and not worth the wet sand in your car.

As we move into the second week, around the 5th of September, the swell kicks up a bit and the period drops to 11 seconds. The swell height hangs around 6 ft to 7 ft from the ENE. The wave energy starts getting into the strong range, hitting 1159, then 1269. This is the best window we’ve got, but it’s still a real mixed bag. The wind is still cross-off at 19 mph, which isn’t ideal, but at least the swell has some grunt. It’s a bit big for beginners, and there’s a chance of crowds.

By the 7th and 8th, the wind cranks up into a strong breeze – 25 to 28 mph. That pretty much shuts the door on any quality. The swell is still there, over 7 ft, but it’s blown out and ugly. That’s the only real window of interest, and it’s not great. For a more protected spot or a point break, that long period groundswell on the 5th and 6th might have been something, but here it just breaks too straight and the wind spoils it.

Then it all falls apart. By the 11th of September, we’re looking at a near gale from the SSE and a tiny 2 ft onshore slop. Honestly, with all that wind and chop, this setup looks way more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

So, the standout here is really just a couple of days around the 5th and 6th of September. It’s the only time the swell has any real size and decent period, even if the conditions are rough. It’s a long-range call, so take it with a grain of salt, but if you’re desperate and the wind eases, that’s your only shot.

Rusty

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