Express Point Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let's get you the skinny on Express Point for the next couple weeks, in feet and miles per hour.

Water temp is a pleasant 57°, which is a touch warmer than usual for this time of year – a little treat.

Friday the 11th starts things off. Friday morning is the one to get wet. We've got a clean 6ft SW groundswell, period a long 15 seconds (combined energy of 1229). With the wind dead calm, glassy as a pond, it's gonna be firing. Expect very good surf. The afternoon gets a tricky cross-onshore breeze, so don't sleep on that morning window.

Saturday the 12th morning is the crown jewel of the first week. Still 6ft, same SW direction, but the period is even longer at 16 seconds, and we get a light cross-offshore wind. Combined energy is 1402. That's excellent, clean, powerful surf for those who know what they're doing. Afternoon gets messy with a light cross-onshore, so the early bird gets the worm.

Sunday the 13th drops off hard. Morning is a bust with cloud and 16 mph winds from the north. Afternoon cleans up with an offshore breeze, but the swell is only 4ft – it's there, but not worth a special trip.

Monday the 14th is junk – winds are blowing 19-25 mph and the swell is tiny. Tuesday the 15th gets some size, but it's a washing machine. 8ft in the morning with 25 mph winds and rain? No thanks. By afternoon it's 10ft but with a strong side-shore and chop. That's kite-surfing weather, not paddle surfing. Wednesday the 16th stays big and ugly at 8-10ft with a cross-onshore wind ruining it. Thursday the 17th is a drop to 5-5ft with a side-shore wind. Mediocre at best.

Now, Friday the 18th morning is a major highlight. 5ft of SW groundswell, period back to 16 seconds, combined energy 1164. But the key is a moderate offshore wind from the NNW. That's clean, lined-up, powerful surf. The afternoon holds up too.

Then a lull. Saturday the 19th through Monday the 21st is mostly poor to marginal – small swell and wind issues.

But Tuesday the 22nd is the bomb. Morning brings 8ft of SW groundswell, period 16 seconds, combined energy a massive 3589. That's a serious amount of water moving. Light offshore, clean. Experts only. The real magic is Tuesday afternoon: 10ft, same 16-second period, combined energy 4117, and the wind goes dead calm – glassy. That is a once-in-a-forecast-session kind of day. Perfect, big, powerful point break waves.

Wednesday the 23rd still has 7ft in the morning, clean, but it's a step down. Then it fades through the end of the month. Thursday the 24th has 4ft, but a side-shore wind cuts the quality. Friday the 25th and Saturday the 26th get big again, but it's all side-shore and messy.

To sum it up: First week, Saturday the 12th morning is your cleanest, best bet. Second week, without a doubt, Tuesday the 22nd, especially the afternoon glass-off. That's the one to block out your calendar for.

Rusty.

Read more