Deadman's Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I'm looking at the charts for the next couple of weeks. It's a bit of a mixed bag out there, but there's a real gem hiding at the end of the forecast if you've got the patience.

Right now, we're looking at a pretty quiet stretch. The swell energy is weak to moderate (899), with a 4 ft SSW groundswell rolling in at a long 16 seconds. The wind is a cross-shore from the NW at 15 km/h, which is putting a bit of a chop on it. The water temperature is sitting at 14°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year. It's not horrible, but it's not exactly firing either. The forecast is calling it "marginal," and I'd have to agree. The next few days are a bit of a write-off, with the swell dropping off and the winds staying cross or cross-on, keeping things messy.

We'll see a bit of a pulse around the 3rd of September with the swell picking up to 5 ft from the WNW, but it's a super short period of 10 seconds, so it's going to be a bit fat and weak. The real energy is still missing.

Now, hold onto your board, because we've got a bit of a gap and then things get interesting. On Sunday the 6th of September, the morning stays average, but the afternoon... that's a standout. The wind drops to glassy, totally calm, and we've still got a 3 ft SSW groundswell with a 14-second period. The energy is moderate (521). For a spot that's inconsistent, to have it go glassy is a real treat. That's your window for a clean, if not huge, session.

But the real story, the one you want to circle on the calendar, is the 10th of September. A new swell is forecast to push in, and it's a doozy. Thursday afternoon we're looking at a solid 8 ft of NW swell, with a short 10-second period, but the wind is forecast to be glassy. The combined energy jumps to a strong 1771. Now, this is a reef break, and 8 ft is big, expert territory. It's going to be a powerful, walling wave. The crowds are likely here, so you'll want to be on your game. It looks like the best on offer for the whole period, no question.

The following days keep the swell going. The 11th of September stays solid at 7 ft from the NW, again with glassy conditions in the afternoon. This is another excellent window for the experienced crew. The energy is still strong (1036). It's a long run of quality swell, but remember, it's a reef break and it's going to be challenging.

The energy finally starts to drop off after that, with the swell mixing up a bit and the winds getting a little more cross, so get on it while it's good.

So, to sum it up: the next few days are a bit of a struggle. The 6th of September offers a brief, clean, glassy window for a smaller wave. But the real standout, the one to get excited about, is the 10th and 11th of September. Get your big-wave board ready and be prepared for a crowd. The forecast is promising, but it's a long way out, so keep your fingers crossed.

Rusty.

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