Secrets Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, let’s talk about what’s cookin’ in the water over the next couple of weeks.

Right now, the surf is a bit of a mixed bag. We’ve got some swell, but the wind is playing games, making it hard to find that perfect, clean wave. The water is a cold 53°, which is about 5° colder than usual for this time of year – that’s a notable chill, so you’ll want a good wetsuit.

The first real chance of a decent wave comes on Monday, August 3rd. The morning has a 6 ft NW swell, but it’s a cross wind, so it’s not going to be polished. The afternoon stays on the same tack with a 6 ft NW swell. It’s surfable, but nothing to write home about. The wave energy is moderate.

Tuesday, August 4th, is where it starts to look a little better for Secrets. The morning shows a cleaner setup with a 4 ft WNW swell and a gentle offshore wind out of the SSE. That’s the kind of wind that will smooth things out. The swell period is a short 8 seconds, so it’ll be a bit bouncy, but it’s a start. The afternoon stays clean with a 4 ft WNW swell and a light wind.

Wednesday, August 5th, the morning drops to 3 ft NW, but the wind is still offshore and clean. The afternoon sees a 3 ft WNW swell with a 10-second period, which is a bit more drawn out, and it stays clean.

Thursday, August 6th, is small. The morning has a 2 ft SW swell with a long 13-second period, making it feel a bit more powerful, but it’s small. The wind is light, so it’s clean, but you’ll be fighting for scraps.

Then we hit a rough patch. From Friday, August 7th, through to Friday, August 14th, the wind turns mostly cross-on or cross, and the swell gets messy. The wave heights jump up and down, but the wind just ruins the quality. The 8th and 9th have some size (6 ft to 8 ft NW), but with fresh cross-onshore winds, it’s going to be a lumpy, choppy mess – more of a kite-surfing kind of day than a paddle-surfing one. This stretch of poor conditions lasts for about a week.

Now, here’s the real standout. Saturday, August 15th, the light comes back on. The morning kicks off with a 3 ft SSW swell, a long 17-second period, and a light cross-off wind. That’s clean, lined-up, and with that long period, it’s going to wrap around the point at Secrets beautifully. The afternoon is even better, with a glassy offshore wind and a 3 ft SSW swell at 16 seconds.

Sunday, August 16th, keeps the dream alive. The morning is clear with a 3 ft SSW swell, 16-second period, and a gentle offshore. The afternoon is a glassy dream with a 3 ft SSW swell and a light wind.

Then on Monday, August 17th, we get a bump in size. The morning has a 7 ft NW swell, but it’s clean and cross-off, so it’s workable. But the afternoon is the absolute best of the whole run: glassy conditions, 8 ft NW swell, with a 7-second period. This is for experienced surfers only – that size is pushing into expert territory, and the short period will make it punchy. But if you’ve got the skills, the glassy face will be a dream.

Tuesday, August 18th, the morning drops back to 3 ft WNW with a long 13-second period and clean conditions. The afternoon gets a bit more size (7 ft) but the wind turns cross-on, so it gets messy.

The best bet is the weekend of August 15th and 16th. The combination of the long-period SSW groundswell, light offshore winds, and clean conditions will make Secrets a true standout. That’s the one I’d be circling on the calendar. The Monday afternoon session on the 17th is also a classic for the experts, but that’s a different beast.

If you’re heading out any other day, you’re just waiting for the wind to play ball. This spot does see crowds often, so get out there early for the good ones.

Rusty.

Read more