Ano Nuevo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, pull up a sand dune and let’s have a look at what the ocean’s got cookin’. This is Rusty, and I’ve been staring at charts all morning so you don’t have to squint at your phone screen in the glare.

To be straight with you, the next week and a half is looking pretty grim for a proper paddle. We’ve got a long stretch of poor surf conditions on the cards. The swell is small and the wind is mostly cross-shore, which is just gonna chop things up into a mess. We’re looking at a gap of several days where I wouldn’t even bother waxing up. From the 11th through the 22nd, it’s a whole lot of weak, crumbly lines and bumpy surfaces. There’s some energy out there, but it’s all over the place, and the prevailing NW winds are just ruining any chance of a clean face. It’s the kind of stuff that gets you out of bed, only to make you wish you’d stayed there.

Now, for the one bright spot in this otherwise flat spell. Keep your eyes on the 23rd of September. Wednesday afternoon things finally start to click. We’ve got a new swell pushing in, about 6ft, and the wind is forecast to go glassy. That’s a huge change for this spot. The energy is moderate, sitting at 544, but it’s the combination of that clean surface and the new groundswell that has me interested. It’s not huge, but it’s going to be clean, and that’s all we can ask for right now.

That Glassy window is the standout. It’s the only time in the whole outlook where the stars align. The swell direction is from the SW, which is right in the sweet spot for Ano Nuevo (Big Island). It’s an inconsistent setup, so you’ve got to be patient, but when a clean one rolls through that reef and beach mix, it’ll be worth the wait. The water temp is sitting at 61°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year. Get the booties if you're a wimp like me.

Thursday the 24th sees the swell bump up to 6ft but the wind kicks back into cross, which will put a bit of a crumble on it. The energy is still building, though. It’s an expert wave at this size for this break, so if you’re not confident, maybe sit this one out. It’s not going to be for the faint of heart. The long period stuff is better on the points and reefs, so this beach and reef setup might be a bit tricky.

The following days drop back down again. The second week looks like we’re back into the same pattern of weak surf and cross-shore winds. There’s a bit of a pulse around the 25th with a longer period, but the direction is a bit more NW, and the winds are on it again. Don’t get too excited.

So, to keep it honest: the 23rd is your day. It’s a couple of days away but it’s the only real shot at a decent, clean wave. Otherwise, keep your board in the bag and your expectations low. This place can be fickle, but it doesn’t stay poor for long. Forecasts change, so keep an eye out. I know I will be.

Stay salty,
Rusty

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