Third Reef Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a good, hard look at what’s on the table for Third Reef. It’s going to be a long wait, but there’s a little light at the end of the tunnel.

Right now, we’re stuck in a pretty grim pattern. The wind is messy, mostly cross-onshore, and the swell is just not cooperating. The water temp is sitting at about 58°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year, so no surprises there. For the first week and a half, it’s a write-off. We’re looking at a solid 12 days where the surf is either poor or marginal, with a lot of choppy, lumpy conditions. The wind is going to be a constant problem, blowing from the NW and WNW at 9 to 19 mph, just ruining any chance of a clean face. The swell is there, but it’s short-period junk, mostly around 8 seconds, which just doesn’t have the grunt for a proper wave. The combined energy is moderate, but it’s all wasted on the wind. Don’t bother paddling out for this.

Things finally start to look interesting around Monday the 21st of September. The afternoon shows a huge shift: the wind drops to zero, going glassy. The swell is still a modest 3 ft from the SW, but the combined energy is getting up there (929). That’s a window to get a few clean, smooth ones. Nothing huge, but after all that chop, it’ll feel like a gift.

The real standout, the one you’ve been waiting for, is Tuesday the 22nd of September. This is the best day on offer. We’re looking at a solid 7 ft of swell, pushing from the NW. The wind is glassy again, both morning and afternoon, with the combined energy hitting a strong 1265. That’s proper power. This is a big swell, over 8 ft, so this is strictly for the experienced crew. The period is 10 seconds, which is decent, and the direction is right on the money for this reef. The water will be clean, the waves will have some serious punch. This is the day to circle on the calendar. The crowd situation at Third Reef can be an issue, so expect some company.

The good energy hangs around into Wednesday the 23rd. The swell drops a touch to 6 ft - 6 ft from the NW, but the wind is glassy again in the afternoon (837). This is still a very good day, especially for anyone who missed Tuesday. The swell is still a bit hefty for a beginner, but it’s a great option for intermediates and up.

The week winds down with a smaller, cleaner swell on Thursday the 24th. The morning is a bit onshore, but the afternoon turns glassy with a 5 ft NW swell. A nice, manageable way to end the run.

So, to sum it up: the first 12 days are a total bust. Don’t even think about it. The real action is from the 21st through the 24th of September. Tuesday the 22nd is the absolute best, with big, clean, powerful waves. Get your gear ready for that one.

Rusty.

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