The Wreck Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's take a good, hard look at what's coming down the pipe at The Wreck over the next couple of weeks.

First off, the water's running a bit colder than usual for this time of year, coming in at 61°, so you'll want a good quality 4/3 if you're heading out.

We’ve got a rough start, honestly. The immediate few days are pretty grim. Strong cross-onshore winds from the east are just wrecking the shape with a messy, lumpy SSW swell—the combined energy is up around 3580 (moderate to strong) but it's all for nothing with the chop. Sunday and Monday are write-offs for a decent paddle. Tuesday doesn't look much better, with a weak, short-period 5ft east swell (combined energy 822) that just isn't gonna deliver. You've got to wait through a few days of junk until we get a proper window.

Now, Wednesday the 9th is where things start to turn. It's a small day, with a 2 to 3ft SSW swell (combined energy around 401—weak energy), but the wind swings offshore from the SW. That's clean, that's surfable, and a good time to get the log out. Not a standout, just the first hint that the ocean is waking up.

The real standout? Thursday the 10th of September is the one to circle on your calendar. That morning we've got a clean 7ft SSW groundswell (period 14 seconds) sliding in, with the wind turning glassy and calm. Combined energy is a solid 1913 (moderate to strong). It's going to be clean, lined-up, and very, very good. The break is sheltered here, so that long-period energy from the SSW will wrap in nicely. Get on it early before the wind switches onshore in the afternoon.

We get another proper look on Saturday the 12th of September. The morning brings a 10ft east swell (combined energy 1999) and glassy conditions—though the period is a short 8 seconds, so don't expect a ton of power. The real magic happens that afternoon: a 7ft SSW groundswell with a very long 17-second period (combined energy 3802) and glassy wind. That is an incredible window for experienced surfers on a point or reef set-up. The Wreck is a sheltered spot, so that long-period groundswell will wrap in with serious push and shape. Just be aware, this is expert territory at that size.

Looking further out, there is promising swell into the middle of next week. Tuesday the 15th of September has a 7ft SW groundswell (period 15 seconds) and gentle offshore winds in the morning (combined energy 2011). That's clean and solid, another excellent session for experienced crew. Wednesday the 16th of September also pumps hard, starting with a 8ft SW groundswell (period 15 seconds, combined energy 3101) and building to a 12ft monster (period 15 seconds, combined energy 4776) with offshore winds in the afternoon. That's a massive, powerful swell—only for the experts, and a serious standout for the second week.

From the 17th onward, we're still looking at clean, offshore conditions on a dropper swell, with plenty of 6ft+ days running right through to the 20th. There are some solid 8ft to 10ft clean swells on the Sunday and Monday after that, but the period shortens up a bit (7-8 seconds), so it'll be more about the push than the glide.

Crowds can be an issue here "sometimes," but when you get a glassy, long-period groundswell like that, it's worth the company.

Alright, that's the story. It's a slow start, but the middle and end of this forecast have some absolute crackers. Keep an eye on that Thursday the 10th and the following Wednesday the 16th. I'm Rusty, signing off.

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