Big Bay Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright mate, Rusty here. Let’s break down what's coming down the line for the next couple of weeks. Things start off clean and manageable, but the real heavy stuff is a bit further out. There's a rough patch in the middle where the wind turns nasty, then a massive pulse of groundswell for the big-wave crew around mid-month. The water is running a serious chill compared to normal for September, so you'll want a thick suit.

The action kicks off on Tuesday the 8th at Big Bay. It’s glassy first thing, with a light N wind and a clean 3ft swell from the WSW. The period is a solid 12 seconds, so there’s proper energy behind it (combined energy of 476). This adds up to well-shaped, punchy waves – a solid start. The water is sitting at 52°, which is a massive 8° colder than average for this time of year. That’s a huge anomaly, so it’s going to feel properly freezing. The morning session Tuesday is the pick of the first couple of days. Wednesday keeps the S wind cross-off, with the swell holding around the 3ft mark. It stays clean and surfable.

Thursday the 10th sees a noticeable jump. The morning delivers a 8ft swell from the WSW, with a 14-second period. That’s got some serious power (combined energy of 2346), but with 8ft on a beach setup, this is only for the experienced crew. The wind is a light S cross-off, keeping it clean, but this is big territory for the average surfer. Friday drops back to a 6ft swell, though the wind picks up through the afternoon, making things a bit average.

Saturday the 12th is mixed. The morning sees a 6ft SW groundswell with a 14-second period, kept clean by a moderate cross-off wind. The afternoon, however, features a big 7ft swell with a very long 16-second period. That’s a lot of water moving (combined energy of 3665). Long-period groundswell like this can be tricky – it stands up fast and can close out on beach breaks.

Now, Sunday the 13th is a standout. Glassy conditions in the morning with a light NNW wind and a clean 7ft swell from the SW at 14 seconds. Combined energy is a healthy 1567. This is prime, clean surf for the experienced surfer. Not a day for beginners – 7ft is a proper step up – but for the intermediate-to-advanced surfer, this morning window is the real deal. The afternoon sees a light cross-onshore that scuffs the surface.

After that, we hit a rough patch. Monday the 14th and Tuesday the 15th are pretty grim. The wind turns cross-onshore and gets strong, with the Tuesday afternoon seeing a massive 10ft swell but with a strong NW wind making it lumpy and messy. The combined energy readings are enormous (over 9000 on Tuesday arvo), but the quality is zero. This is far more interesting for kite surfing than paddling.

The absolute standout of the entire forecast is Wednesday the 16th of September. Mark it down. The morning delivers a 13ft swell from the WSW with a 16-second period, combined energy of 8169, and a light SE cross-off wind keeping it clean. This is exceptional, expert-only territory. Over 8ft is for the big dogs, and 13ft is a serious ocean. The afternoon drops to 12ft but is still very clean. This is the biggest, best quality swell of the run, but you need to know what you’re doing.

Thursday the 17th is still solid, with a 10ft swell in the morning, though the period drops to 8 seconds, making it more of a wind-swell combo. The afternoon goes glassy with an 8ft S swell – still excellent for experienced surfers. We then see clean, glassy mornings around the 19th and 20th, with solid 5ft to 6ft SW swells. The runs into Monday and Tuesday of the following week (21st and 22nd) look good too, with clean, offshore winds and consistent surf around 6ft. The 23rd also looks excellent with clear skies and clean 6ft surf.

So, the best on offer is Wednesday the 16th for the heavy-water crew, and Sunday the 13th morning for the experienced surfer wanting a clean, powerful session without the monster size.

Keep an eye on the last part of the forecast – it’s showing some promise.

Rusty.

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