Cyrils and Big Left Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. The only spot firing in this window is a reef set-up, and there’s a whole lot of waiting around before things get really good. Here’s the rundown.

We’re looking at Cyrils and Big Left for the whole 16-day stretch. The water temp is sitting at 56°F, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The first few days are a bit of a write-off, honestly. Monday 3rd August through to Wednesday 5th, we’ve got swell hanging around 5 ft to 6 ft, but the wind is a problem – cross-off or cross, with a fresh breeze. The wave energy is moderate to strong (1020 to 1734), but the conditions are just marginal or poor. Not worth paddling out for.

Thursday 6th is a tease. The swell drops right off to 2 ft to 3 ft, and the wind goes offshore and clean, but there’s just not enough push. The energy is low (429 to 467).

Now, Friday 7th August is the first real standout. Morning brings a clean 6 ft swell from the SW with a solid 16-second period, and a light offshore breeze from the NNW at 6 mph. The energy is strong (1519). The afternoon is even better – glassy conditions, 5 ft swell, and the same long period. This is excellent for experienced surfers. The swell direction is from the SW, which is a touch off the optimum S direction, but the quality is there. Crowds are possible, so get there early.

Saturday 8th is still decent, with 5 ft SW swell and a 16-second period. The wind is cross-off to offshore, but it’s a fresh breeze (19 mph), which takes the shine off a bit. The energy is still strong (1243 to 1345).

Sunday 9th is a write-off – strong winds, 34 mph in the morning, making it near gale-force. Not surfable.

Monday 10th August is a monster. Morning sees a massive 15 ft SW swell with a 16-second period, and the energy is off the charts (17218). The wind is moderate cross-off, but the model says the swell is too big for this break. Stick to the afternoon, when the swell drops to 12 ft and the wind goes offshore. This is exceptional for experts only. Anything over 8 ft is for the brave.

Tuesday 11th to Thursday 14th keeps the swell solid, between 7 ft and 10 ft, with that long SW groundswell. The wind is offshore to cross-off, but often strong, making it hard to paddle into. The energy is strong to very strong (1914 to 8863). The model rates the Thursday sessions as excellent, but the wind is cross-off, not perfect.

Friday 15th and Saturday 16th see a drop in quality. The wind turns cross-on or cross, and the swell gets messy. The energy is still strong, but the conditions are choppy and lumpy.

Sunday 16th is similar – cross-shore wind, 6 ft swell, but not clean.

Monday 17th morning has a clean 8 ft SW swell with a 17-second period and moderate wind, but it’s big. The afternoon turns onshore and choppy.

The very best on offer is Friday 7th August – that glassy afternoon session with 5 ft of clean, long-period SW swell is the pick of the window. The second best is Monday 10th August afternoon, but only for experts. The long period (15-17 seconds) means these swells are proper groundswell, and at a reef break like Cyrils and Big Left, that’s a beautiful thing – the waves will peel nicely.

After that, the forecast gets less certain, but Tuesday 18th August morning looks promising with a clean 6 ft swell from the SW, a 17-second period, and a gentle breeze. That’s one to watch as it gets closer.

Rusty.

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