Cyrils and Big Left Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's talk about the waves coming our way.

The outlook is a bit of a mixed bag, but there's some real magic lined up if you're patient. The big story is a solid, long-period groundswell from the southwest that hangs around for a while, but the wind is going to be the deciding factor on whether it's a dream or a drama.

We've got a tricky start. The first few days are a write-off. Tuesday the 8th sees a clean 4ft to 5ft swell from the southwest, but the wind is all wrong, making it messy. By Wednesday the 9th and Thursday the 10th, the swell jumps up to a hefty 10ft to 12ft, but it's accompanied by brutal cross-onshore winds. That's a no-go for paddling; honestly, that setup looks like it's more for the kite surfers than us. The combined wave energy is massive, hitting 6975 and then a whopping 13501, but it's all wind chop.

The tide starts to turn on Friday the 11th. The swell drops to a more manageable 7ft from the southwest, but the wind is still not cooperating. It's just not clean enough to get excited about.

Then we get to the highlight. Saturday the 12th is the day to circle on the calendar. We've got a 7ft southwest groundswell, with a very long 16-second period, and the wind is going light offshore from the NNW in the morning, turning glassy in the afternoon. This is going to be top-shelf at Cyrils and Big Left. The water is sitting at 56°, which is about average for this time of year, so you won't need the thickest rubber. The wave energy is a solid 2525, showing there's plenty of push. This is a reef break, and with that long period, the sets will be proper, with nice gaps to paddle out. It's an intermediate spot, but at 7ft, it’s getting a bit big for beginners, so the experienced crew will have a ball. Just keep in mind that crowds are possible here.

Sunday the 13th still offers some fun with fresh offshore winds, but the swell is backing off to 5ft to 5ft.

The middle of the week from Monday the 14th to Wednesday the 16th is pretty average, with the swell hanging around 3ft to 8ft, but the wind is inconsistent and usually cross-shore or cross-on. Not worth the paddle.

The second week holds some promise. On Thursday the 17th and Friday the 18th, we get another window of clean, offshore winds from the NNW, with a 5ft to 6ft SW swell. It’s not the size of the weekend, but it’ll be clean and fun. Saturday the 19th looks even better, with a 6ft swell and moderate offshore winds, which is a solid option.

Looking further ahead, Monday the 22nd of September is another standout for the experts. The swell is back up to 6ft, but the wind is light offshore from the NNW, promising clean, long-period waves. And then Wednesday the 23rd of September sees the swell build again to 7ft with a very long 17-second period, but the wind is howling offshore at 28 mph in the morning. That makes for beautiful, clean waves, but it’ll be a battle to get out and hold your position. That’s one for the strong paddlers only.

So, to wrap it up: if you can only get wet once, make it Saturday the 12th. That’s the clear winner. For a second option, keep an eye on Saturday the 19th or Monday the 22nd, which are promising but a bit less certain this far out.

Rusty.

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