Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. We’ve got a solid 16-day window ahead, but it’s a bit of a slow burner. The first few days are a write-off, but there is some serious quality lurking further out. Let’s get into it.

Don’t even bother paddling out for the first few days. Wednesday the 9th is a total mess, with a big 10ft SW groundswell packing a massive 7174 units of energy, but it’s being torn apart by a fresh cross-shore wind. Thursday the 10th is cleaner but still lumpy and not worth the effort for the 10ft swell. It’s only from Friday the 11th that things start to look interesting.

The real standout in this whole forecast is Point Leo (reef) on Friday morning, the 11th of September. The wind drops out completely, leaving it glassy. You’re looking at a solid 7ft swell from the southwest, with a very long 15-second period. That’s proper groundswell energy, and the reef setup will handle it beautifully. The combined energy is a moderate 1760 units, so it’s got plenty of push. This is an excellent one for experienced surfers, but beginners might find the 7ft a bit too much. It’s a fairly consistent spot, and the crowds are a possibility, but for conditions like this, it’s worth the gamble.

Saturday the 12th is another top-tier day. The morning sees a clean 7ft SW swell with a cross-offshore breeze. The afternoon turns glassy again with a 7ft swell. The water temperature is about average for this time of year, so it’s nothing unusual, but don’t expect a tropical bath.

We’ve got a bit of a lull through Sunday the 13th and Monday the 14th as the swell drops off, but it picks up again in a big way. Keep an eye on Wednesday the 16th. The morning brings a 8ft SW groundswell with a long 17-second period and a gentle offshore wind. The energy is strong at 5233 units. This is a top-shelf morning for experienced surfers.

The real monster looks like it’s forming for the following week. Wednesday the 23rd of September is shaping up to be exceptional. The morning sees a 12ft SW groundswell with a 18-second period and a moderate offshore wind. The combined energy is a massive 7176 units. This is expert-level territory, but if you’ve got the skill, the reef at Point Leo will be absolutely firing. It’s a long way out, so it’s a promising but less certain call, but if it lines up, it’ll be the session of the window.

So, to sum it up: the first few days are a dog. Friday the 11th and Saturday the 12th are your best early bets. The absolute standout, if it holds, is Wednesday the 23rd. Get ready for some big ones.

Rusty.

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