Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here, and we’ve got a wild ride ahead at Point Leo. This is a reef break that’s fairly consistent, best with a SW swell, and it's a beginner-friendly spot normally, but the coming days are going to test that. The water temp is sitting at 56°F, which is a touch warmer than the long-term average, so it’s not a bad trade-off for the chilly air.

The week kicks off with a solid swell pulse, but the wind is going to be a bit of a drama. Wednesday morning has a clean 6 ft SW groundswell at 16 seconds, with a cross-off breeze, but the wave energy is already strong at 1744. The afternoon bumps up to a powerful 8 ft, but that 25 mph cross-off makes it tricky. By Thursday, the swell pumps to 10 ft on the morning and a heavy 12 ft by afternoon, but those winds are howling in the fresh breeze range and it’s a messy cross-off. The combined energy on Thursday afternoon is enormous at 8013 – this is serious power, not for the faint-hearted.

Then, Friday morning is where the magic could happen. We’ve got an 12 ft SW swell, 16-second period, and a true offshore breeze from the NNW at 15 mph. The break will be clean, the sets will be long, and the energy is intense at 5414. This is the standout for the week, but it’s big – over 8 ft – so it’s strictly for experienced surfers. The offshore wind holds through the afternoon with a 10 ft swell, still clean, still powerful.

Friday is the best on offer here. Saturday takes a messy turn with a gale-force offshore wind at 34 mph dropping the score, and the afternoon turns into a washing machine with 13 ft on a short 11-second period and strong onshore cross-off. That’s not surfable. Sunday settles down a bit with 8 ft in the morning, but the cross-off is still there; the afternoon has a 7 ft swell with light winds for cleaner conditions, but it’s not the same quality.

Monday drops right off with weak 4 ft to 5 ft swells and cross-shore chop – forget it. Tuesday morning finds a sneaky clean 4 ft swell with a very long 18-second period, and a NNW offshore breeze. The energy is only 1729 – mellow – but that long period means it’ll wall up, and for a reef, it’ll be lined-up. A good window for the less experienced crew if they’re keen on a quiet paddle.

The second week gets more uncertain. Wednesday, September 9th, has a huge 12 ft SW groundswell on the afternoon, 19-second period, but the wind is a strong cross-shore – not worth it. Thursday, September 10th, sees an 12 ft swell with a light cross-on breeze, which might be rideable but not epic. The real promise in week two is Thursday, September 17th: an 8 ft SW swell with a fresh offshore breeze from the NW at 22 mph, and the energy is getting strong at 2818. That’s a long-range highlight, and if the wind holds, it could be a solid day. But it’s far out, so keep an eye on it.

There’s a gap of a few days around the 14th and 15th where the swell drops below 5 ft and winds are poor – a flat spell. Overall, Friday is the true standout this period – if you can handle the size, it’s worth the drive. The rest of the time, it’s either too windy or too mushy.

Stay stoked,
Rusty

Read more