Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break it down in feet and miles per hour.

Point Leo is the only spot on the menu right now. We’ve got a big run of swell coming, but the early part is a challenge. Wednesday afternoon (the 12th) fires up with a solid 8ft SW groundswell, period a very long 16 seconds, and the energy gauge is hammering at 4630 – that’s serious power. Wind is cross-off from the west at 12 mph, so the reef should be clean. Water temp is 55°, about normal for the time of year. That’s a big, powerful swell, but the forecast says it’s marginal, so the tide window might be a pain. This is for experienced folks only, especially with that long period – it can be a bit tricky at a reef.

Thursday the 13th keeps the juice on. Morning has 10ft SW swell, 16-second period, and 5036 energy units – massive. Wind is cross-off from the WNW at 16 mph, clean but still huge. The afternoon eases to 10ft with 4524 energy units and a lighter 9 mph W cross-off. The afternoon gets a rating of "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." That’s the best window for the crew that can handle it on Thursday.

Friday the 14th drops a little, but still holding 10ft SW in the morning with a moderate cross-off wind. The afternoon gets messy with a cross-shore SW wind at 12 mph and a cross-chop, killing the quality. Saturday the 15th sees the swell fade to 8ft, and the morning has a light 3 mph SE onshore wind, which is a problem. Glassy but onshore makes it tough. Sunday the 16th is smaller at 6ft, and the wind is all over the place.

There’s a lull from Monday the 17th through Thursday the 20th, with swell dropping below 5ft and low energy (down to 214 units by Wednesday the 19th). Not worth it. Friday the 21st has some hope – the afternoon shows a 3ft SW swell with an offshore wind at 12 mph and clean conditions, but it’s small.

The real standout is further out. Saturday the 22nd afternoon brings a 5ft SW swell, 13-second period, and more importantly, a moderate offshore wind from the NNW at 12 mph with clean conditions. The rating calls it "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers." That’s the best of the smaller stuff.

But hold on, because Sunday the 23rd brings back the monster. A 10ft WSW swell, 15-second period, and 4001 energy units in the morning with a cross-off wind. Monday the 24th holds that 10ft SW groundswell with clean cross-off winds. Tuesday the 25th keeps the 10ft, but the wind turns onshore. Wednesday the 26th is the big finale: 12ft SW swell, 15-second period, and a massive 7606 energy units in the morning with a light ENE cross breeze. That is a huge, powerful swell. It’s only for experts. The morning of Wednesday the 26th is the absolute standout of the whole forecast – a big, clean, powerful groundswell at a reef. It’s a long-range call, but mark it down. After that, Thursday the 27th drops back to a clean 6ft SW swell with glassy winds in the afternoon – a nice way to finish.

Honestly, the first week is all about the big, expert-only waves on Wednesday the 12th and Thursday the 13th, and the second week is all about Wednesday the 26th. Everything else is either too small or too messy. Crowds at Point Leo can be a problem sometimes, so for those standout sessions, get out early. For anything over 8ft, leave the beginners on the beach.

Rusty.

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