Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, mates, Rusty here. Gotta be honest with you, the start of this stretch is a bit of a bust. The ocean’s just taking a breather. The first couple of days are tiny, with waves around 2ft, and the wind is all over the place. Water temp is about 55°F, pretty normal for this time of year. You’re not missing anything by staying on the beach.

But hang on, because things start to wake up Thursday arvo. The swell pushes to 4ft, and we finally get that offshore wind. The period is up at 16 seconds, so you know it’s clean groundswell. Friday sees it push to 5ft, and the conditions are looking clean. That's a good sign of things to come.

The weekend is a bit of a dud, though. The swell holds around 5ft, but the wind blows like crazy, especially Sunday, with gusts up to 45 km/h. That’s going to be a messy, blown-out mess. Not worth the paddle.

Now, for the big news. Monday the 10th, the ocean just turns on. We're looking at a solid 15ft of SW swell, but with a short period of 9 seconds. It’s gonna be powerful, but a bit bumpy. Monday afternoon it gets even bigger, with 12ft at 17 seconds. That’s a huge, powerful swell. This is for the big-wave chargers only. Tuesday the 11th is a bit of a letdown, with the swell dropping to 6ft but the wind howling at 40 km/h. Terrible.

Then, Wednesday the 12th and Thursday the 13th are the main event. Wednesday has 10ft of long-period groundswell with a fresh offshore breeze. Thursday the 13th is the biggest of the whole forecast – a massive 16ft of SW swell at 17 seconds. The energy is off the charts. This is a huge, once-in-a-while kind of day for experts only. The wind is moderate and cross-off, so it will be big and powerful, but it will be a session to remember.

The following week is still solid, but a bit more manageable. Friday the 14th is still huge, with 10ft and offshore winds. Saturday the 15th is another good one, with 8-10ft of clean, long-period swell. Sunday the 16th morning looks glassy with 7ft waves – that’s a beautiful, clean morning. The wind dies off completely, making it perfect. The arvo gets a bit onshore, so get out there early.

The last few days, from the 17th to the 20th, settle down to a more normal size, around 4-6ft. There are still some clean windows, especially Monday morning and Tuesday afternoon. It’s not as epic as the mid-week peak, but there will be fun waves to be had.

So, the long and short of it is: the start is slow, but the middle of the forecast has some absolutely massive, powerful surf. The big one is on Thursday the 13th. That’s the one to circle on the calendar. It’s a long way out, but it’s looking mighty promising.

Rusty.

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