Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about Point Leo.

We’ve got a solid run of swell on the way, but the wind is going to be the main character in this story. The water is sitting at 56.1°F, which is about normal for this time of year, so nothing to shock the system.

The first real action kicks off on Tuesday morning, the 8th of September. A long-period SW groundswell is rolling in at 3.9ft, with a period of 18 seconds. That’s proper groundswell energy, and the combined energy is up at 1684 (moderate). The wind is a light W at 9 mph, which is cross-offshore, and it’s clean. This is a great window for experienced surfers. The reef at Point Leo will handle that long period well, and the conditions will be clean. The swell is a bit small, but the quality will be there.

By Tuesday afternoon, it’s a bit more size at 4.6ft, but the wind swings SW, becoming a cross-shore, and the forecast mentions questionable tide. It’s a step down.

Wednesday, the 9th, is a big jump in power. The morning sees 9.8ft of SW swell, but the wind is screaming from the SSW at 22 mph, creating a lumpy cross-chop. The combined energy hits 6975 (strong). That’s too big for beginners, and with that wind, it’s a poor surf call. The afternoon is worse, with 11.5ft and 13501 energy (very strong), but still windy and messy. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddling one.

Thursday, the 10th, is similar. Swell hangs around 9.8ft, wind is a moderate 12 mph from the SW, but it’s a cross-shore chop. The energy is still strong (6058 in the morning, 4440 in the afternoon), but the quality is marginal. Tough conditions.

Now, here’s the standout. Friday morning, the 11th of September. The swell drops to 6.9ft, a much cleaner size. The wind goes light, WSW at 3 mph, cross-offshore, and the forecast says “excellent” for experienced surfers. The period is 14 seconds, solid groundswell, and the combined energy is 1736 (moderate). This is the pick of the first week. Clean, manageable size, and the reef will make the most of it.

Saturday morning, the 12th, is also a cracker. Swell is 7.2ft, wind is 3 mph from the NNW, cross-off, and clean. The afternoon gets even better with glassy conditions and 6.6ft swell. Both sessions are excellent for experienced surfers.

Sunday, the 13th, the wind picks up again from the north at 19 mph. The swell is 5.2ft, and while it’s cross-offshore, that fresh breeze will make it a bit of a battle. Not hopeless, but not the best.

Monday, the 14th, we see the swell dropping fast. Morning is 3.6ft with a 16 mph offshore wind from the NW. It’s clean, but the size is small. Afternoon is only 3.0ft.

Tuesday, the 15th, the swell jumps back to 6.6ft, but the wind is a cross-shore from the SW at 16 mph, creating a chop. The period is short (10 seconds in the morning). Poor conditions.

The next real highlight is Wednesday morning, the 16th of September. Glassy conditions, 6.9ft of SW swell at 13 seconds, and the combined energy is 2045 (moderate). It’s clean, but still a size that’s best for experienced surfers.

Thursday, the 17th, has a good window in the afternoon. Swell is 5.6ft, wind is offshore from the NW at 12 mph, and the forecast says “very good.” The morning is a bit windier.

Friday, the 18th, sees a similar story. The morning has light rain and a 16 mph cross-offshore wind, but the afternoon is better with offshore winds at 12 mph and 4.9ft swell. Good for a session.

Saturday, the 19th, is another solid day. The morning has gentle offshore winds from the NW at 9 mph, 6.2ft swell, and the forecast says “very good.” The afternoon is cross-offshore and clean.

Sunday, the 20th, the swell is 6.9ft in the morning, clean with a cross-offshore wind, but the afternoon turns cross-shore and choppy.

Monday, the 21st

Read more