Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it’s Rusty here. We’ve only got one spot lighting up in the next 16 days, and that’s Point Leo. It’s a reef setup that’s fairly consistent, but this forecast is a bit of a slow burn with a rough patch to get through first.

The early part of the week is messy. Starting Sunday afternoon (26 July), there’s a 5ft SW swell with moderate energy (632) and a light NW breeze keeping things clean, so a few waves will be rideable, but it’s not the best. Then Monday through Wednesday is a write-off. The wind swings around, howling from the NW and then SW, pushing through 25 to 28 mph gusts. Even though there’s solid swell—up to 13ft by Wednesday morning (29 July) with very strong energy (8055)—the cross-shore and cross-off winds are tearing it up. That Wednesday, with a 13ft SW swell and a 16-second period, is packing some serious punch, but the 25 mph SW wind is making it a messy cross-chop. That’s expert territory, and only if you’re feeling tough. For anyone else, the setup looks more interesting for a kite session than a paddle.

Thursday (30 July) starts to ease. The southwest swell drops to 7ft in the morning with moderate energy (1488) and a moderate cross-shore breeze. The afternoon cleans up a bit with a cross-off wind, but it’s still marginal. Friday (31 July) is small and rainy with weak energy (600-585) and cross-shore winds that leave a slight chop; not worth hanging around for.

Now, everything changes on Saturday (1 August). The sun’s out, the wind is light or glassy. The morning has a 4ft SW swell (667) with a cross-off breeze, and the afternoon turns glassy with a 3ft SW swell and an incredible 16-second period. That long-period groundswell will be lining up nicely on the reef, giving you clean, fun waves. Not huge, but quality is the name of the game here. This is a standout moment.

Sunday (2 August) keeps the good run going. You’ve got clear skies, a moderate N cross-off breeze, and a clean 6ft SW swell (1681) with a long 17-second period. The reef will hold that swell well, and the wind is just offshore enough to keep the faces smooth. Both the morning and afternoon sessions look solid. This is another highlight.

The first week of August stays active. Monday (3 August) is tricky with a fresh NNW breeze, but by the afternoon a 8ft WSW swell (2508) shows up with a fresh offshore NW wind. That’s a punchy, clean wave, but at 8ft it’s starting to get sizeable for the average punter. Tuesday (4 August) sees the swell push up to 10ft (4032) with a fresh cross-off wind, then drops to 8ft in the afternoon with a strong breeze. That’s expert-only territory, and the cross-off wind will keep it from being perfect. Wednesday (5 August) has a solid 7ft+ SW swell (2637-3213) but a moderate cross-shore wind, so there’s some chop to deal with.

Then we hit the absolute best of the run on Thursday (6 August). The morning has a 5ft SW swell (1196) with light cross-off winds, clean as a whistle. But the afternoon is the jackpot: a 3ft SW swell with a 20-second period—that’s a very long groundswell—and glassy conditions. The combined energy is moderate (1552), but for a reef break like Point Leo, that long period will produce some beautifully shaped, powerful lines. It’s excellent for experienced surfers. Friday (7 August) is still good, with a 5ft SW swell (1244) and a moderate offshore, cleaning up into the afternoon with a light offshore and a 4ft swell (740). The last few days (8-10 August) fade in size, down to 2ft and 4ft with lighter winds, but the period stays long (15-21 seconds), offering small but clean glassy sessions for the loggers or on a big board.

Water temp is sitting at 56°F, which is just about normal for this time of year at Point Leo. No surprises there.

The biggest standouts are the afternoon of Saturday 1 August and the afternoon of Thursday 6 August. Saturday has the glassy, small but clean conditions, while Thursday has that rare 20-second swell with zero wind. For me, Thursday 6 August afternoon is the one to circle on the calendar—just keep in mind it’s more than a week out, so don’t lock your plans in too tight. Crowds at Point Leo are only sometimes an issue, so you should have plenty of room to find your own peak.

Keep your eyes on the sky, and I’ll catch you in the water.

Rusty.

Read more