Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s coming up.

Alright, we’re looking at a solid run of swell for Point Leo over the next couple of weeks, but she’s a mixed bag. The main event is a good pulse of long-period groundswell from the SW, but the wind and conditions will chop and change a fair bit. The water temp is sitting at a pretty normal 56°F, so nothing unusual for this time of year.

The first decent action kicks off on Tuesday the 11th of August. We’ve got a 5ft SW groundswell with a 14-second period, and it’s a bit weak in terms of energy (1007). It’s clean with a moderate offshore NW wind, but the guidance says it’s only marginal. It’s not a standout, just a warm-up.

Wednesday the 12th sees the swell building. The morning has a 8ft SW swell with a long 16-second period, and the combined energy is getting serious (2887). Wind is fresh offshore from the WNW, so it’ll be clean. The afternoon is where we really start to see the standout action. The swell jumps to 10ft from the WSW, still with that long 16-second period, and the energy is pumping (7559). This is big – over 8ft, so this is for experienced surfers only. For the crew that can handle it, the wind is a moderate cross-off from the WNW, keeping things reasonably clean.

Thursday the 13th and Friday the 14th hold that 10ft SW groundswell with the same long 16-second period and solid energy readings (4615 and 4352 respectively). The mornings have moderate offshore or clean cross-off winds. The afternoons get a bit trickier as the breeze swings around. Again, this is expert-only territory. This long-period groundswell at a reef break like Point Leo is the perfect setup – it won’t close out like a beach break.

After that, the swell drops back but stays rideable. Saturday the 15th sees 8ft dropping to 8ft with a 15-second period, but the wind is cross-onshore, and it’s going to be chopped up. Not the best.

Sunday the 16th and Monday the 17th have smaller 6ft to 5ft SW swells with light cross or onshore winds. The energy is low (around 750-1300). It’s still surfable, but nothing special.

Now, here is the real gem for the cleaner, more relaxed surfer. Looking forward to Tuesday the 18th of August, we have a 5ft SW groundswell with a 15-second period. The energy is moderate (868). But the wind is glassy in the afternoon, coming from the SE at just 3 mph. This is the best window for good waves without the heavy energy. The next day, Wednesday the 19th, the swell drops to 3ft but it’s glassy again in the afternoon, with a 16-second period. That’s a proper groundswell for a smaller day, making for clean, peelable lines on the reef.

We then get a bit of a lull towards the end of the month. From Sunday the 23rd of August through to Tuesday the 26th, we’ve got very small swell (mostly under 3ft) and strong winds. The energy is weak. The conditions are poor; the break is basically asleep.

Then, a wildcard for the crew who are really keen and experienced. On Wednesday the 26th of August afternoon, the numbers go a bit crazy. We’ve got a 10ft swell from the WSW, but the period is a short 8 seconds. That’s a windswell, not the clean groundswell we had before. The combined energy is solid (1363), and it’s offshore from the NW. It’s called “excellent for experienced surfers,” but that short period means it will be a lumpy, challenging paddle. This one is only for the die-hards.

Best on Offer: For the raw, big-wave power, the standout is Wednesday the 12th of August afternoon with that 10ft, 16-second groundswell, clean cross-off wind, and huge energy (7559). For the all-round, most pleasant surf, look at Tuesday the 18th of August afternoon and Wednesday the 19th of August afternoon, when the 3ft to 5ft groundswell meets glassy conditions at a nice reef break.

Keep an eye on the crowds at Point Leo, as it’s a consistent spot and word will get out.

Catch ya later,
Rusty

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