Point Leo Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Look, we’ve only got one spot on the radar for this entire 16-day stretch, and it’s Point Leo. It’s a reef break, fairly consistent, and it’s a beginner-friendly wave. The water’s sitting at 56°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The first decent window doesn’t arrive until Tuesday, the 8th of September. Monday the 7th is a write-off—cross-on winds and lumpy, messy surf. But Tuesday morning we see a shift. The swell is 4ft from the SW with a long period of 18 seconds, and the combined energy is solid at 1684. The wind is light cross-off, and the conditions are clean. It’s a good start, though the swell is still on the smaller side. Tuesday afternoon gets even better: the swell bumps up to 5ft, still SW, period at 17 seconds, and the energy is 1753. The wind goes light WSW cross-off, and it’s clean. This is excellent surf for experienced surfers, but honestly, for a beginner-friendly reef, it’s a sweet spot for anyone who knows what they’re doing.

Wednesday the 9th is a giant mess. The swell jumps to 10ft and then 12ft, but it’s all cross-shore wind with lumpy chop. The energy hits 7246 and 9199, which is strong, but it’s unsurfable for most. Thursday the 10th is still big—12ft and 10ft—with cross-shore winds, so it’s marginal at best and only for the brave.

Now, the real standout is Saturday the 12th. Saturday morning we’ve got 7ft of SW swell with a 16-second period, energy at 2229, and a light NNW cross-off wind. It’s clean. But Saturday afternoon is the absolute pick of the whole forecast. The swell drops slightly to 7ft, still SW, 15-second period, energy 1790, and the wind goes glassy. Dead flat calm. That’s a dream session for a reef break, and the crowd can be an issue here sometimes, so get in early. That’s the one to circle.

Sunday the 13th is a letdown, with strong N winds and a drop in swell to 5ft, though it’s clean. The next week sees a few more pulses, but the wind is often onshore or strong. The 21st of September (Monday) looks promising again: 10ft SW swell, 16-second period, energy 4544, and a light NW offshore wind in the morning. That’s clean and big—only for the experienced crew. Tuesday the 22nd also has a 10ft SW swell with offshore NW winds, keeping it clean.

Overall, there’s a big gap of poor surf from Monday the 7th, then a slow build, but the glassy Saturday afternoon on the 12th is the undisputed best on offer. The long-range stuff around the 21st is big and clean, but less certain this far out.

Stay stoked, and I’ll see you in the water.
Rusty

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