Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s in store for us over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, so we’ll have to be patient and pick our moments.

The overall pattern is dominated by a lot of south-west swell, but for a beach and reef setup like Rye Ocean Beach, the size and wind are going to be the main story. The water is sitting at 56°F, which is a touch warmer than average for this time of year, so that’s a nice little bonus.

First up, we have a long wait. There’s nothing good on offer for the first few days. The forecast really kicks into gear on Sunday, September 6th. The morning looks like a standout, with a solid 8ft SW swell rolling in, a period of 14 seconds, and clean onshore wind. The combined energy is strong at 2736, and the wind and tide are favorable. But, the swell is predicted to be too big for this break, so that’s a bummer for the average surfer. The afternoon is a bit smaller at 7ft, but the wind is onshore, and it’s only marginal.

Things get tricky the following week. The swell gets huge, with peaks of 13ft on Wednesday, September 9th, and Thursday, September 10th, with periods getting up to 19 seconds. That’s serious energy – we’re looking at readings of 13229 and 9755 – but the wind is onshore and strong, making for poor surf conditions. This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddling one.

The real highlight, and the one that’s got my attention, is Saturday, September 12th. The morning is looking clean with a light cross-offshore breeze from the NNW at just 3 mph. The swell is a solid 8ft from the SW, with a 15-second period, and combined energy of 2789. The wind and tide are favorable, but again, the size is predicted to be too big for this break. Still, if you’re an experienced local who knows how to handle the power, that morning session could be the best on offer. The afternoon is a bit smaller at 7ft, but the wind goes cross-shore and the conditions are more marginal.

Then, Sunday, September 13th, is another one to circle. The morning has a clean 8ft SW swell, 15-second period, and a gentle offshore breeze from the NNE at 9 mph. The water will be clean, and the energy is solid at 2342. But again, the size is the issue for this break.

We then get a drop-off in size and energy, with a few days of poor conditions and smaller swell in the second week. The swell picks up again from Tuesday, September 15th, but it’s short period, messy, and windy. Not worth a paddle.

Looking further out, the 17th and 18th of September have big 10ft SW swells, but the wind is messy or cross-offshore. The combined energy is very high, in the 4000-5000 range, but the conditions aren't clean enough to make it a true standout.

So, to sum it up: the best bets are the mornings of Saturday, September 12th, and Sunday, September 13th, if you can handle the size. The forecast is more reliable for the first week.

Rusty.

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