Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's coming down the pipe for the next couple of weeks.

We're looking at a pretty wild start, and I gotta be honest, for the next few days it's more about sitting it out than paddling out. The ocean's got a lot of energy, and while there's plenty of swell, the wind's gonna be a mess. We’ve got a monster pulse coming through, but it's going to take a while for things to clean up.

Thursday the 3rd is a washout. We've got rain showers and a stiff 19 mph WSW wind smacking straight across the break. The swell is a solid 10 ft from the SW with a combined energy of 3774, which is strong, but it's gonna be lumpy, blown-out, and real ugly. Not worth your time. That swell actually jumps up to 13 ft in the afternoon, making it even more of a mess.

Friday the 4th! Now this is where it gets interesting, but you need to be careful. The wind swings around to the NNW at 12 mph, going cross-offshore. The main issue here is the size. We've got a 12 ft SW groundswell rolling in with a period of 16 seconds, and the energy is a massive 5171. That is *big*, powerful water. A long-period SW groundswell like this will be hitting Rye Ocean Beach hard, and at 12 ft, it's going to be too big for most. The conditions will be clean, but this is strictly for experienced surfers who know the reef breaks. The 10 ft in the afternoon with a light NW cross-shore will be a bit friendlier, but still a heavy day.

Saturday the 5th is a write-off. A near-gale force WNW wind of 31 mph is going to tear the ocean apart. The swell is still solid at 8 ft, but it'll be a massive, jumbled mess with a combined energy of 2679. Leave it for the kites, boys.

The rest of that first week is pretty marginal. Sunday the 6th and Monday the 7th are small, bumpy, and weak. Tuesday the 8th has a 4 ft SW groundswell with a very long 18-second period. That’s a beautiful period, and with light winds, the sets will be clean, but it's likely to be too straight for the beach break. The water temp is sitting at 56°F, which is just about average for this time of year up in the Rye region.

We have another massive pulse coming in on Wednesday the 9th with 8 ft to 12 ft swells, but it's again plagued by strong onshore winds. The wind finally relents on Thursday the 10th, giving us clean faces on a 12 ft SW swell, but again, that’s a whole lot of water for a beach-and-reef setup like Rye Ocean Beach. Only the crew on the big guns will be getting waves.

Now, for the standout window. If you can wait, Friday the 11th of September is our pick of the entire outlook. The swell drops back to a very manageable 6 ft from the SW, with a 15-second period—plenty of energy (1522). But the real magic is the wind. We get a light NNE offshore breeze, and in the afternoon it goes to a light ESE cross-offshore. That means the waves will be clean, lined up, and glassy. This is excellent surf for experienced surfers, and the crowd profile says it can get busy, but with conditions this good, it'll be worth competing for a spot.

The following week gets messy again, with strong winds and lumpy conditions. There's another flash of clean surf on Thursday the 17th with a 7 ft cross-offshore swell, but the energy is lower. And then Friday the 18th sees another solid 8 ft SW swell with clean offshore winds, but the 28 mph wind makes it a contest only for the strong. At that size, it’s big and challenging, so it’s a similar story to Friday the 4th—expert territory.

In short: the next few days are a no-go thanks to wind and size. Best bet is to pencil in Friday the 11th for the cleanest, most fun waves of the run. The long-range stuff has potential, but it's a week-and-a-half out and could change.

Rusty.

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