Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here again, this time in feet and miles per hour.

We’ve got a big stretch of swell coming our way at Rye Ocean Beach, but it’s not going to be a simple pick-and-choose situation. The water temp is sitting at 56.1°F, which is about normal for this time of year – nothing wild there. The main story is that this exposed beach-and-reef setup loves a good SW swell, and we’re getting plenty of that, but for the first few days, the size and conditions just aren’t playing nice for a good paddle session.

The first real chance to get wet doesn’t show up until Friday afternoon, August 28th. The swell is bumping at 6.9 ft from the SW with a very long period of 17 seconds (a proper groundswell), and the wind is blowing straight onshore from the SSW at 9 mph. But here’s the kicker: the combined wave energy is strong at 2506, and the forecast says it’s just too big for this break at that moment.

Saturday, August 29th and Sunday, August 30th are write-offs – messy cross-on winds and choppy conditions with swell hanging around the 5.6 ft to 6.6 ft mark, but the quality just isn’t there.

Now, Monday, August 31st is where we start to get a glimpse of something better. The morning has a 6.9 ft SW swell, period 14 seconds, with a light cross NW breeze at 6 mph. The energy is strong (1981). But the real standout is Monday afternoon: the wind drops to an absolute glassy 3 mph from the ESE. It’s clean as a whistle. The swell is still 6.9 ft and the energy is pumping (2280), but again, the call is it's too big for the break. For a confident surfer, that glassy afternoon window could be a true gem, even if it’s pushing the limits.

Tuesday, September 1st is a frustrating day – clean conditions with cross-off winds, but the swell is still too big and the wind is howling at 25 mph in the morning, dropping to 19 mph in the afternoon. The shape might be there, but it’s a no-go for most.

The pattern of “too big and/or windy” continues right through the first week of September. By Thursday, September 3rd, we’ve got clean cross-off winds and a 7.9 ft SW swell in the morning, and 7.2 ft in the afternoon, but it’s expert-only territory. The energy is through the roof (2377 and 2013).

Friday and Saturday, September 4th-5th, the swell just keeps building. We’re talking 9.8 ft to 13.1 ft SW groundswells with massive energy readings (11467 on Friday afternoon, 6637 on Saturday morning). The wind is cross-off and clean on Saturday, but this is big, heavy stuff – only for the brave or the crazy.

Sunday, September 6th into Monday, September 7th is a write-off. Onshore gales, 31 mph winds, and a massive 19.7 ft swell on Sunday afternoon. The beach is going to be a washing machine. Honestly, this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing – the wind and chop will be relentless.

We finally get a break in the mayhem on Wednesday, September 9th. The swell drops back to a more manageable 5.9 ft in the morning and 5.6 ft in the afternoon, both from the SW with a 13-second period. The wind is light from the S and SSE at 3 mph, creating just small wind ripples. The energy is moderate at 1103 and 976. It’s a marginal call on the tide, but this is the first session in a long time that looks genuinely fun for an intermediate.

Thursday, September 10th morning has a solid 7.2 ft SW groundswell with a very long 18-second period, and a gentle cross breeze from the NW at 9 mph. The energy is strong (3105), but the call is it’s too big again. Still, for a skilled surfer at a reef or point, that long-period pulse would be dreamy.

The final hopeful window comes on Friday, September 11th: a smaller 4.3 ft SW swell in the morning with light cross winds, and then a 5.9 ft SW swell in the afternoon with a 17-second period and a gentle cross breeze from the SE at 9 mph. Energy is moderate (1804). It’s not a standout, but it’s a solid option for a fun afternoon session.

Saturday, September 12th closes the outlook with a bang – a 13.1 ft WSW swell, 12-second period in the morning (energy 9752) and a 13.1 ft WSW swell with a 16-second period in the afternoon (energy 15754). Both sessions have clean cross-off or cross winds, but this is massive, expert-only territory.

So, if you’re looking for the *best* on offer, I’d put my money on Monday afternoon, August 31st for the glassy, clean conditions, even if you’re pushing the size limit. And for a more relaxed, manageable session, Wednesday morning, September 9th is your best bet for a proper paddle without the fear factor.

Rust

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