Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let’s break it down.

Honestly, the first few days at Rye Ocean Beach are a total no-go for paddle surfing. The swell is pumping in from the SW, but the wind is just destroying it. That Tuesday the 15th, with 10 to 12 foot SW swell and 25 mph onshore winds, it’s a kite surfer’s dream. The wave energy is massive, over 4700. For the rest of us, we’re sitting on the beach until things settle down. Wednesday the 16th is more of the same: 10 foot SW swell, still messy with a cross-onshore wind, and that long 15-second period. That long period gives the waves a ton of energy (4336), but at a beach break like Rye, they’ll be closing out.

Finally, a window opens. Thursday morning, the 17th of September, is the one to watch. The swell drops to about 8 feet from the SW, with a solid 14-second period. The big change is the wind – a clean 12 mph onshore wind from the SW. The data says the wind and tide are good, but the swell is still probably too big for this spot. The combined energy is still a beefy 2128. This is for experienced surfers only. It’s a bit of a wild card, but it’s the best shot we get all week.

Friday the 18th sees the swell drop a little more, and we get a clean cross-off wind from the NNW at 12 mph. The swell is around 5 feet in the morning and 7 feet in the afternoon, from the SW, with a period that hits 16 seconds. That is a very long period groundswell, which means it’ll have tons of push but might be a bit fat and walled-up on the beach. The combined energy is over 2000. It’s a marginal day, but could be a fun one for the crew who know what they’re doing.

Then it’s back to the waiting game. Saturday the 19th and Sunday the 20th are blown out with strong winds. Monday the 21st brings a massive 13 foot SW swell with a 16-second period. That’s a giant (combined energy over 10,000), but with light cross-shore wind. It’s just way too big for Rye Ocean Beach. Absolute experts only.

Looking at the second week, Tuesday the 22nd of September looks like the real gem. We’ve got 8 to 10 foot SW swell, still with that very long 15-16 second period, and a clean offshore wind from the north. The combined energy is around 2900-4100. It’s still flagged as too big, but with those clean offshore winds, it could be the best wave of the whole forecast. That’s your long-range standout, but remember, it’s a bit of a promise, not a guarantee.

The end of the month (Wednesday the 23rd through Saturday the 26th) fades back into smaller 5 to 6 foot swell with mixed winds. The last real chance for a smaller day is Tuesday the 29th of September, with a smaller 4 foot SW swell, a light offshore from the NE, and very clean conditions. It’s small, but it’s the safest bet for the less experienced later on.

Water temp is about 57°, pretty average for this time of year, so you’ll want a full suit.

This is a big-swell period with a lot of patience required. Pick your moments. Rusty out.

Read more