Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Howdy, Rusty here again. Let’s break it down in feet and miles, for those who think in old-school units.

Looking at Rye Ocean Beach, a beach and reef setup that faces the south-west, we’ve got a solid 16-day window with some gems and some real duds. Water temp is about 56°, dead average for the season.

We start on Sunday the 30th of August. Swell is 6 to 7 ft from the SW, with a 13-second period – that’s proper groundswell energy. But the wind is cross-on and onshore, so the waves will be a bit rough and choppy. Not the best day to paddle out.

Monday the 31st is where it’s at. Morning comes with a light cross-shore, and by the afternoon it turns glassy – dead calm. We’ve got a 7 ft SW swell with a 14-second period. The combined energy is solidly in the moderate to strong zone (2028 to 2293). The waves will have nice shape, and the wind won’t mess ‘em up. It’s a touch big for beginners, but for the rest of us, this is a beauty. Expect a few heads in the water, though.

Tuesday the 1st of September starts with strong north winds at 28 mph, cleaning the waves up but making it a battle. Swell is 6 ft. The afternoon turns lumpy, so chalk it up to a training day. Wednesday the 2nd is similar – swell builds to 7-8 ft, 15-second period, but cross-onshore winds make it choppy. The energy is there, but the quality isn’t.

Then we hit the rough stretch. From Thursday the 3rd, the swell jumps to 13 ft from the WSW, with cross-onshore winds at 22 mph. The combined energy is massive (8454). This is a heavy, powerful, and dangerous swell. Way too big for a fun surf, and the wind is ruining it. This continues through Friday and Saturday – 10-12 ft swells with strong to near gale-force winds. At this point, with the wind and size, this setup is more for kite surfers than paddle surfers.

Sunday the 6th gives us a break. The swell drops to 8 ft in the morning and 7 ft by the afternoon, with a long 13-14 second period. The wind shifts to a clean offshore from the north at 12 mph. The energy is moderate to strong (2555 to 1843). This is a good, solid day for experienced surfers. The waves will have good shape and the wind won’t ruin it.

After that, Monday the 7th sees a drop to 4 ft, with clean but strong winds. The energy is weak (573 to 776). A few small clean waves, but not much grunt. Tuesday the 8th and Wednesday the 9th bring another massive pulse – up to 13 ft – with near gale-force winds. Blown out. Dangerous. Kite weather again. This hangs around through Thursday the 10th.

Now, Friday the 11th of September is the real winner. The swell is a perfect 6 ft in the morning (5 ft in the afternoon), with a very long 16-second period from the SW. The wind is glassy in the morning and a light offshore in the afternoon. The combined energy is moderate (1554 to 1313). The waves will have beautiful shape, the sets will be spaced nicely, and the water will be like glass. For experienced surfers, this is the best session in the whole 16 days.

Saturday the 12th is still okay – 7-7 ft with a light cross-shore and a 14-15 second period. It’s good, but not as perfect as Friday. From Sunday the 13th onward, the swell stays around 5-6 ft, but the wind is strong and cross-off. The energy drops, and the quality slides into marginal. The waves are there, but the wind is always messing with the shape.

So, circle Friday the 11th of September – that’s the one to call in sick for. Monday the 31st of August is the second-best bet, with that glassy afternoon session. Everything else gets blown out or is too big. Keep the board handy, but pick your days wisely.

Rusty out.

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