Rye Ocean Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s happening at Rye Ocean Beach.

Water temp is about normal for the season—nothing to write home about.

The action starts Monday the 31st of August with a solid SW groundswell. Monday morning brings a 7 ft swell from the SW with a 14-second period and a light NW cross breeze. The combined energy is strong (2026), and it glassed off in the afternoon with a 3 mph easterly—clean as glass. But this beach-and-reef setup is already pushing into expert territory at that size. If you’re experienced, Monday afternoon is a jewel, but most folks will find it too big.

Tuesday the 1st of September drops to 6 ft in the morning, still a long 15-second period, but the wind is cross-off from the north at 28 mph. The energy is still strong (1539), but that wind is howling—clean but bumpy. The afternoon goes to 5 ft with a fresh breeze, still marginal.

Then we hit a rough patch. Wednesday the 2nd of September through Thursday the 3rd sees the swell pump to 7 ft, 10 ft, even 13 ft, with cross-on winds and massive energy (up to 11296). It’s lumpy, choppy, and blown out—kite surfing territory, not paddle surfing. Friday the 4th cleans up with cross-off winds but the swell is 12 ft to 10 ft with a 16-second period—still too big for all but the hardcore.

Saturday the 5th is a total write-off: near gale winds, 15 ft to 16 ft swell, chaos. Sunday the 6th shows some relief with 8 ft in the morning and 8 ft in the afternoon, and the wind goes glassy from the NE at 3 mph. That afternoon session could be glassy and fun if you’re confident, but it’s still a heavy paddle.

From Monday the 7th of September, the swell backs off to 6 ft to 5 ft with clean winds, but the energy drops (716 to 879) and conditions are only marginal. A lull through mid-week, with the swell bouncing between 5 ft and 12 ft, often too big or with poor winds.

Now, here’s the standout: Sunday the 13th of September. The morning brings a 6 ft swell from the SW with a very long 18-second period, glassy conditions with a light NE breeze at 3 mph, and strong energy (2722). This break loves SW swells, and that’s exactly what’s coming. Glassy, long-period groundswell, manageable for experienced surfers—this is the pick of the fortnight. The afternoon bumps to 7 ft with a light cross breeze, still good but more push.

The rest of the second week is more of the same: big swells, often too big, with clean windows on Monday the 14th and Tuesday the 15th of September, but the swell is 8 ft to 13 ft—only for experts. Energy stays high (over 2900), so there’s plenty of power, but it’s not a beginner’s game.

To sum it up: the first few days are mixed—too big or blown out, with a glassy window on Monday the 31st afternoon that’s solid but heavy. The real highlight is Sunday the 13th of September—glassy, long-period, and clean. Circle that one.

Rusty.

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