Big Beach Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break down Big Beach for the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, it starts off pretty flat. Wednesday the 2nd and Thursday the 3rd are a total mess with junk surf and cross-off breezes. Don’t bother.

Things pick up from Friday the 4th. The afternoon has a 5ft S swell with a 12-second period, and the wind swings offshore, giving us clean waves. The energy is moderate (621), and it’s looking like good surf.

Saturday the 5th is where it gets fun. A 5ft SSW swell, gentle cross-off breezes in the morning, turning into a gentle offshore in the afternoon. It’s clean, the energy is building (683), and the waves are shaping up nicely. Sunday the 6th is even better. A 6ft SSW swell with a 12-second period, light offshore winds, and the energy jumps to a strong 1059 in the afternoon. This is a real standout, and the water temp is about normal for this time of year at 81°.

Now, Monday the 7th is the one to watch. The morning has a 3ft SSW swell, but the period is a very long 17 seconds, and the energy is strong (1232). The wind is light and cross-off. The afternoon is the real gem though. A 5ft SW swell, a 14-second period, light offshore winds, and the energy is very strong (1644). The data says it’s excellent for experienced surfers. This is the best on offer, but keep an eye out for rain showers.

The next day, Tuesday the 8th, is a massive change. The swell is huge, with an 12ft SW swell in the morning, jumping to 13ft in the afternoon. The energy is enormous (6383 and 10790). However, the wind is cross-shore and cross-onshore, making it choppy and messy. This is for experts only, and with that wind, it might be better for kite surfing than paddling.

The surf then drops off. Wednesday the 9th has a clean 5ft SSW swell but the period drops to 9 seconds, making it short and messy. From Thursday the 10th through to the 13th, the swell fades away to 1ft to 2ft. There’s a couple of glassy days on the 13th and 14th, but the waves are tiny, just surfable.

There’s a late-period pulse of long-period groundswell. Monday the 14th and Tuesday the 15th see a 2ft to 3ft SW swell with a very long period of 24 and 21 seconds. The energy is moderate to strong (353 to 693). The winds are light, with glassy conditions on the 14th. This is one to look at for the second week, but the swell is small. A long-period swell like this one will work best at points or reefs, if there are any, as it can close out on a beach.

The last few days, from the 16th to the 18th, settle back into small, clean, 2ft to 3ft SSW swells. It’s surfable, but nothing special.

So, the standout is definitely Monday the 7th afternoon, with that excellent, powerful swell and light offshore winds for experienced surfers. Sunday the 6th is a very close second, with great conditions for a wider range of surfers. The long-period swell on the 14th and 15th is worth a look if you’re patient, but it’s small.

Rusty.

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