The Pines Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Gather 'round, crew. It’s Rusty here, and I’m looking at the long-range picture for our little slice of the coast. We’ve got a bit of a slow start, but there is a window of proper, clean swell coming our way in the second half of the week that’s worth getting excited about. Don’t get too amped for the early days, though – the first couple of days are a write-off. We’re looking at a gap of about three days before anything worth paddling out for shows up.

The first real chance to get wet doesn’t come until Thursday morning, the 20th of August. The swell will be a modest 5 ft from the SW with a period of 13 seconds, and the wind will be offshore from the WNW. That’ll put some clean lines into The Pines, and the combined swell energy will be moderate (1119). It’s not huge, but it’s our first real taste of something rideable. The water temp is sitting at 58°F, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

Now, the standout window, the one you want to mark on your calendar, kicks off on Friday morning, the 21st of August. This is it. The swell builds to a solid 6 ft from the SW with a period of 14 seconds, and the wind swings to a light cross-offshore breeze from the WSW. That combination is going to produce very good surf conditions. The combined wave energy will be strong (2716). The afternoon steps it up even more with a 7 ft SSW swell at a very long 17-second period, pushing energy even higher (2879). This is a proper groundswell. That long period means the waves will have real shape and power, and the long gaps between sets will make it easier to get back out. At a reef break like The Pines, this is a dream scenario. The light wind will keep it glassy and clean.

The quality holds right through the weekend. Saturday morning, the 22nd, offers up 7 ft from the SSW at 15 seconds with light cross-offshore breezes and strong energy (2038). Saturday afternoon sees it peak a touch higher at 7 ft, still SSW, still clean. Sunday, the 23rd, keeps the party going with 7 ft to 7 ft SSW swell, clean conditions, and strong energy again (2459 and 2257). For the experienced surfer, this is the best stretch of the entire forecast. The consistent SSW swell, the offshore and cross-offshore wind, and the reef setup all align. The Pines rarely breaks, so when it gets a run like this, you need to be on it. Just be aware that it does get crowded, so expect company.

Once we hit Monday the 24th, things start to back off. The morning still has a decent 6 ft SSW swell and clean conditions, but the winds shift in the afternoon and the quality drops off fast. From Monday afternoon all the way through to the 1st of September, the forecast is a mix of poor surf conditions and onshore wind. There will be a bit of swell in the water, but it’ll be choppy and messy. Not worth the drive unless you’re desperate for a paddle. There is a final blip on Monday the 31st of August with some 7 ft SW swell and clean cross-offshore winds, but the forecast is only marginal, so don’t bank on it.

Keep your eyes on that Friday-to-Sunday window. That’s the gold.

- Rusty

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