Publics Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, it’s Rusty. Let's talk about Publics for the next couple of weeks. It’s a waiting game.

Publics is an exposed beach and reef, and the forecast is full of strong ENE wind for days. Water temp is about 81°F, which is standard for this time of year.

Kicking off Monday, August 24th in the afternoon, we’ve got a 5ft easterly swell, but with a short period of 7 seconds. The energy is weak at 472, and the 12 mph cross-off wind keeps the surface clean, but the waves have no push. Not worth the paddle.

From Tuesday the 25th through to Saturday the 29th of August, it’s a write-off. The wind is up between 19 and 25 mph day in, day out. Swell holds between 5ft and 6ft but with the same short, weak period. Energy readings hit 605 and 660, but it’s just messy wind-slop. On Thursday and Friday, we see a small 4ft to 3ft south swell with a longer period of 14 to 17 seconds, but the wind is still too strong. Not a chance.

Into Sunday and Monday, August 30th and 31st. Still cross-off wind, a messy 5ft to 8ft east-northeast swell with a 7-8 second period. The energy finally breaks 1000 on Monday afternoon, but that short-period swell will be choppy and tough. Score is a 2 out of 10. Hard pass.

Tuesday, September 1st starts with 6ft at 8 seconds, then drops to a weak 2ft south swell. Things stay rough through Thursday the 3rd, and then near gale-force winds hit on Friday the 4th. The Friday morning report says "near gale offshore" and paddling out will be next to impossible.

Then we get a turn. Saturday the 5th of September brings in a solid 5ft long-period groundswell from the east with a 12-second period. Energy jumps to 1066. The wind is still cross-off at 19-25 mph, so it’s clean but windy.

The real prize is Monday, September 7th. This is the day. The swell hangs at 5ft from the ENE with a 9-second period, and the wind drops to a light 9 mph in the morning, barely 6 mph in the afternoon. The models say "expect very good surf conditions" and a score of 3 out of 10. (Publics) will be clean, glassy, and the direction is a perfect match. This is the only real stand-out window.

Tuesday, September 8th has a light SE cross-on breeze at 6-9 mph that will put a little texture on the face, but the 5ft east-northeast swell is still there. Rideable, but Monday is king.

So, there's a big stretch of poor surf from now until the end of August. The only real shot is Monday, September 7th. Mark it, and check the weekend before for building swell.

Rusty.

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