Leca Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here with the skinny on Leca in feet and degrees.

The next couple of weeks are a bit of a mixed bag, to be honest. We’ve got some swell on the way, but the wind is going to be a real pain for most of the run. There’s a promising little window right at the start, but it’s a grind until we get towards the end of the first week and into the second.

Right now, for Saturday the 29th and Sunday the 30th, we’re looking at small, weak chest-high waves around 4 ft from the WNW. The wind is a problem – it’s either onshore or cross-onshore, so the surf is pretty poor and choppy. Not much to get excited about. The combined energy is weak, sitting around 138 to 196 on the scale.

Monday the 31st sees the swell nudge up to 4 ft to 5 ft, and the combined energy jumps to moderate 241, peaking at 406 that afternoon. But again, the wind is cross or cross-onshore, and by the afternoon a fresh breeze is making it lumpy. The water temp is sitting at 65°F, which is about 1°F cooler than average for this time of year, so pretty normal.

Tuesday the 1st and Wednesday the 2nd of September are a write-off. The swell drops back under 3 ft, and the wind stays messy. Thursday morning the 3rd is a tease – we get a glassy morning with 3 ft from the NW, but the period is a short 7 seconds, so it’s surfable but pretty ordinary. Friday morning the 4th is the same story: glassy, 3 ft, but short period. The energy is weak at 85.

Now, Saturday the 5th of September is our first real standout. The morning brings a 5 ft swell from the NW with a much longer period of 12 seconds – that’s proper groundswell. The combined energy jumps to a strong 521! The wind is a light cross from the south, so it’s a bit side-shore but manageable. This is the best looking session of the first week. The longer period will mean better shape, but it can be a bit straight at the beach break, so keep an eye on the tide.

We then hit a dry spell from Sunday the 6th through to Wednesday the 9th. Swell drops to 2 ft to 3 ft, and the wind is back on it. A few mornings are glassy or clean, but the swell is too small to do much with.

Thursday the 10th of September is a weird one. The swell is tiny at 2 ft, but the period is a massive 15 seconds from the W. That’s very long-period groundswell, and the energy is moderate to strong at 323. It’s a cross-shore wind, so it’s side-shore. At this size, it’s a challenge, but if you’ve got a longboard, there might be a sneaky long ride.

Friday the 11th of September is the other standout. The morning sees a 5 ft swell from the WNW, with a 12-second period and a very strong combined energy of 683. That’s a lot of power. The wind is a light cross from the north, so it’s on the side. This is a big swell for the area, and at 5 ft, it’s pushing into intermediate territory. The quality is still marginal on the scorecard, but the energy is there.

Finally, that Sunday morning on the 13th of September looks like a big clean-up set. A 6 ft swell from the WNW with a 14-second period and a massive combined energy of 1623. The wind is a clean cross-offshore from the NNE. That’s going to be a powerful, clean swell, but at 6 ft, it’s definitely for experienced surfers only. The afternoon gets blown out again.

So, if you’re picking your days, Saturday the 5th of September morning and Friday the 11th of September morning are your best bets for the best balance of size and conditions. The Sunday the 13th morning is the biggest and cleanest, but it’s a big one.

Rusty.

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