Keaulanas Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. The start of this stretch is a total bummer, with barely a ripple and the wind blowing the wrong way. But if you've got some patience, the second week is going to deliver, especially one session that looks absolutely pumping. The first day worth a mention is Tuesday, September 1st, so we have a few days of nada ahead.

Those first few days, from Saturday the 29th of August through Monday, are a write-off. You’ve got a tiny 3 ft south swell on Saturday, but a stiff 15-19 mph cross-off breeze from the ENE ruins any chance of clean waves. Sunday and Monday are even smaller, with 2-2 ft SSW swells and the same crappy wind. Don't bother.

Come Tuesday, September 1st (at Keaulanas, a beach and reef break), things finally turn. The wind goes offshore out of the ENE at 12 mph in the morning, and the swell is a clean 2 ft from the SSW. The period is a long 18 seconds, so you've got real groundswell energy, and the combined energy is moderate (448). It’s clean and surfable for intermediates. The water temp is about what you'd expect for this time of year.

The energy really steps up on Monday, September 7th. The morning is a good session with a 3 ft SSW swell and offshore ENE wind at 16 mph (energy 428), but the afternoon is the pick of the first part. The wind goes offshore from the NE at 16 mph, and the SSW swell pushes to 3 ft with a very long 18-second period. The combined energy is a solid 678. This is a real standout – clean offshore wind, long-period groundswell, and decent size. This is the one for the intermediate crew.

But the absolute best stretch is coming. Thursday, September 11th starts with a glassy 3 ft west swell. Friday, September 12th, though, is the day. Zero wind in the morning, glassy conditions, and the swell is 4 ft from the west with an 18-second period. The combined energy is massive at 1136 (strong to very strong). The afternoon stays glassy, just a light 3 mph breeze. At 4 ft to 4 ft on Saturday, this is expert territory or for experienced surfers. The swell direction from the west is exactly what this break wants. Glassy, powerful, consistent west groundswell – this is the absolute best on offer.

From Tuesday the 8th to the 13th, you've also got a consistent run of clean conditions. You'll see a 3 ft SSW swell on the 8th (energy 534) and a 3 ft SSW swell on the 9th with glassy conditions, making for some really pleasant, clean lineups. The 13th closes it out with a 3 ft west swell and a light cross-off breeze – still a good option, but the golden window is the 11th and 12th.

One thing to keep in mind: when you get a very long period like 18 seconds, it’s a real groundswell. At a beach and reef setup like Keaulanas, it can break a bit straight, but a west swell wrapping in with glassy conditions and a reef is going to produce some proper, well-shaped waves.

Rusty.

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