Keaulanas Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here, lookin’ at what we’ve got cookin’ for Keaulanas over the next couple of weeks.

Right now, we’re in a bit of a flat spell to start. Wednesday and Thursday morning both have some swell in the water, but the conditions are just plain poor or very marginal – you wouldn’t paddle out. The wind is clean on Thursday with a fresh offshore (19 mph), but the swell is tiny, barely 3 ft. Not worth the effort, honestly. Friday morning drops to zero swell, so that’s a write-off.

The first real signs of life show up on Saturday the 5th. We’ve got a clean 5 ft swell from the south with a 12-second period. The combined energy is moderate at 745, but the wind is a cross-off, so it won't be perfect. Still, it's the first thing that looks worth a peek, even if it’s just a "marginal" call. Sunday the 6th is similar – 5 to 5 ft of SSW swell, but with a risk of thunderstorms and cross-off winds. Not ideal.

Now, the first true standout is Monday the 7th of September. This is the one to circle. Early morning we’ve got light offshore winds (NE at 6 mph) and a solid 5 ft SW groundswell with a 12-second period. The combined energy is high (1309), which means there’s real power in the water. The report says "excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers," and I’m inclined to agree. The swell is getting a bit big for beginners (over 5 ft), but for the rest of you, this is clean, lined-up, and pumping. The water temp is 81°F, which is pretty much normal for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The next big one comes mid-week. Monday the 8th sees a very large SSW swell building, but conditions go downhill fast. We’re talking a big 12 ft SW groundswell with a 14-second period, but the wind switches to a strong cross-shore (SE 22 mph), making it lumpy and messy. The energy is huge (5907), but honestly, this setup looks better for a kite than a paddle. The period is long enough (over 11 seconds) that the reef and point aspects of Keaulanas could handle it, but the wind just kills it.

After that, the second week settles into smaller but cleaner surf. From Tuesday the 9th through to Thursday the 17th, we’re looking at waist- to chest-high swell (2 ft to 3 ft) with a mix of SSW and SW directions. The periods get really interesting – we see a 21-second swell on the 15th, which is very long-period groundswell. That will wrap perfectly into Keaulanas, delivering crisp, powerful lines, but you’ll have longer waits between sets. The winds are looking glassy or light offshore for a lot of these days, especially the mornings of the 12th, 13th, and 17th, with "glass" conditions. That’s the kind of clean you dream about.

Tuesday the 16th and Wednesday the 17th are another little standout in the second week. We’ve got 3 ft SSW groundswell with a 16 to 17-second period, and on the 17th, completely glassy winds. The energy is solid (654-682), and the reports say "very good surf conditions." It’s not huge, but it will be beautiful and clean. Keep an eye on that.

So, if you’re picking one day, Monday the 7th is your best bet for size and quality. For the glassy, long-period perfection later on, Wednesday the 17th is the sleeper hit.

Rusty.

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