Keaulanas Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Keaulanas.

This is a spot that’s exposed to the swell, and over the next couple of weeks, we’re looking at a real mixed bag of energy. The real standout action is going to be early next week, but there’s some surprising clean potential right at the end of the run too.

Saturday, September 5th gets us going. It’s not perfect, but it’s a start. The morning has some cross-off wind and a 5ft south swell with a 12-second period. The combined energy is moderate (846). The water is sitting at 81°, which is pretty much normal for this time of year. By the afternoon, the wind swings offshore and clean, with the swell dropping to 5ft. It’s surfable, but it’s not the best of the window.

Sunday, September 6th is a bit of a letdown. The swell drops to 4ft and then 4ft, and the wind is cross-off. It’s clean, but there’s just not enough push to get excited about.

Monday, September 7th is where things get serious. The morning sees a jump to 7ft from the SW with a 14-second period, and the combined energy is strong (2018). But the real story is the afternoon: a 10ft SSW groundswell, with a 14-second period, and the energy is very strong (3713). That’s a big, powerful swell. However, the wind is a cross-off 19 mph, and there’s a risk of tstorms. That’s expert territory. The size alone makes it too much for beginners.

Tuesday, September 8th is a write-off. The wind goes cross-on, the swell is still big at 7ft, but the conditions are described as poor. The energy is still strong (2230 and 1363), but it’s going to be choppy and messy. This is the kind of day that looks more interesting for kite-surfing than paddle surfing.

Wednesday, September 9th – the swell drops back to 3ft, and the morning is a bit messy with a cross wind. The afternoon, however, turns clean with a light cross-off breeze. Still, the swell is small.

Thursday, September 10th through to Sunday, September 13th – the swell fades away to tiny 2ft and 1ft waves. The winds are mostly offshore, so it’s clean, but there’s no power. The combined energy drops to triple digits (354 down to 91). This is a lull, plain and simple.

There’s a gap of several days here with no real recommendation.

Monday, September 14th – it’s still small in the morning (0.7ft), but the afternoon sees a weird spike: 2ft from the SW with a 24-second period. That’s a very long period groundswell. The energy is low (308), but the period is so long it’s worth noting. It’ll be clean with offshore wind.

Tuesday, September 15th – we start to see a return of life. 3ft and 3ft from the SSW with very long periods (21 and 20 seconds). The wind is light and cross-off. The combined energy is moderate (584 and 603). This is clean and promising, but still small.

Wednesday, September 16th – the swell holds at 3ft with a 18-second period. The morning is cross-off, the afternoon is offshore. Energy is moderate (609 and 561). This is looking good for a longboard or a fun shape.

Thursday, September 17th – more of the same, 3ft, 16-second period, offshore winds. Clean and consistent.

Friday, September 18th – the swell nudges up to 3ft and 4ft with a 17-second period. The morning has a gentle offshore breeze, and the combined energy is moderate (615 and 737). This is a real highlight for the second week.

Saturday, September 19th – this is the other standout. The swell is 4ft to 4ft from the SSW with a 16-second period, light winds, and the energy is moderate (643 and 733). The afternoon is practically glassy. This is going to be clean, fun, and a proper session.

Sunday, September 20th – the run ends on a high note. The morning is glassy, with a 4ft SSW swell and a 15-second period. The afternoon has a slight offshore breeze. The energy is still moderate (498 and 478). This is a beautiful way to finish the forecast.

If I had to pick the true standouts, it’s the afternoon of Monday, September 7th for the pure power, but that’s for experts only. For the best all-round, clean, and surfable conditions, look to Saturday, September 19th – that’s the one that’s got the combo of size, period, and that glassy wind. Crowds are possible at Keaulanas, so keep that in mind.

Rusty.

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