Keaulanas Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s coming for Keaulanas. It’s a beach and reef setup, open to the swell, and the water’s sitting at a normal 81° for this time of year, so nothing unusual there.

The forecast starts Friday the 4th, but it’s a slow start. We’ve got a 5ft swell from the south with a 13-second period, and a fresh offshore wind. The combined energy is moderate (649), and it’s clean, but the models are calling it marginal. The size is there, but the quality isn’t quite dialed in. By Saturday the 5th, the swell pushes to 6ft, still from the south, period at 12 seconds, and the wind stays offshore. Energy climbs to 988, and Saturday afternoon looks much cleaner—that’s the first real window.

Sunday the 6th is where it starts to get serious. The swell hits 7ft from the SSW by the afternoon, period stretching to 14 seconds, and energy jumps to 1677. Offshore wind from the ENE keeps it clean. This is getting into the expert zone—too big for beginners—but for the experienced crew, it’s excellent. The long period means the waves will have real grunt, and being a reef break, it’ll handle that energy well.

Monday the 7th is a wild one. Morning sees a massive 12ft SSW swell with a 15-second period, energy roaring at 6331—that’s strong. The wind is cross-offshore, keeping it clean. This is expert-only, and it’s a standout if you’re game. But Monday afternoon turns nasty. The wind swings to a fresh cross-shore at 35 km/h, and the swell hits 16ft. Energy is off the charts at 9965, but with that cross-chop, it’s poor for surfing. That setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

Tuesday the 8th drops off hard to a 3ft swell with cross-onshore wind from a risk of thunderstorms. It’s choppy, energy moderate (1158). Not worth it. Wednesday the 9th cleans up with a gentle offshore and 3ft swell, but it’s small. Energy is weak (489), so it’s a fun little session for a longboard, but nothing special.

The second week from the 10th onward sees the swell drop to 2ft to 3ft, but the period gets very long—16 to 18 seconds. The energy is low (252 to 614), and the wind is mostly offshore. It’s clean, even glassy on some mornings, but these are small waves with a slow, drawn-out feel. The long period means the sets will be spaced out, and at a reef break, it’ll be a mellow session. The standout in this stretch is the 15th and 16th of September, where the swell bumps to 3ft to 3ft, the period is 18 to 20 seconds, and the wind goes glassy. Energy is moderate (652 to 699), and it’s very clean. For a quiet morning session, that’s the pick.

So, the best on offer? If you’re an expert, Sunday the 6th afternoon is the standout—solid 7ft, long period, clean offshore wind. For everyone else, the glassy mornings on the 16th and 17th of September with 3ft swell and perfect conditions are the ones to mark on the calendar.

Rusty out.

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