Shipwrecks Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, crew, Rusty here. Let's talk about the next stretch. We've got a bit of a slow start before things start to move, so don't rush out just yet. The early window looks pretty lackluster, with small, poor-quality waves and onshore winds. You'll want to wait it out for the good stuff later.

The First Week: Holding Pattern

For the next few days, it’s all about small, junky surf. The swell is tiny and weak, with energy in the low-to-mid hundreds (314-963 range). The wind is mostly onshore or cross-onshore, which is not doing us any favors. There isn't a single decent wave on offer until Friday afternoon the 28th. That afternoon, a 3ft SSW groundswell with an 18-second period rolls in, and the wind swings cross-offshore. It's not big, but it's clean and could be a fun, long-board wave.

Keep an eye on Sunday the 30th as well. The swell bumps up to 4ft, but the wind is messy. Sunday afternoon, the WSW cross-offshore wind will clean things up, but the period drops to 12 seconds, which makes it a bit more wobbly.

The start of the new week, from the 31st to the 3rd, is pretty mediocre. The swell stays inconsistent and small, with a mix of clean and choppy conditions. It's not a total loss, but you'll have to pick your windows carefully.

The Back Half: A Promise of Power

Now, things get a bit more serious, though not entirely clean. The swell really builds as we head into the second week. A bigger SSW groundswell arrives on the 4th, with wave heights up to 6ft and a chunky 9-10 second period. The wind is cross-onshore, which will chop it up. Still, there is a lot of energy (over 1100).

The real standout shows up on Saturday the 5th of September. We're looking at a solid 10ft of SSE swell, with the energy meter spiking (2762). It's big, but the period is only 10 seconds, and there is a risk of thunderstorms. This is a powerful, stormy swell, and with that size, it's expert territory only. The afternoon looks more interesting, with a lighter cross-shore wind, making it a bit more manageable for the very experienced.

This big swell rolls through the weekend, staying well overhead at 8ft to 10ft, but it gets choppy again as winds turn cross-onshore. Sunday the 6th will be a messy, powerful beast. It's not pretty, but there will be a lot of water moving around.

The Calm and the Glory

After that stormy spell, the ocean takes a breather. By the 7th, the swell drops back down to 6ft and keeps easing. Monday morning sees a light onshore breeze, but by afternoon it's cleaner. Tuesday the 8th is where we find the real diamond in the rough. After a cloudy morning with a small, 2ft SSE swell, the afternoon brings a 19-second SSW groundswell to 3ft with *glassy* conditions and a light west wind. It's not pumping, but it will be absolutely clean, making it a magical, mellow afternoon surf. This is a top pick for a clean, relaxed session.

The next day, Wednesday the 9th, is also looking good. Another glassy afternoon with a 3ft SSW groundswell. This could be a nice little run of clean surf on the smaller days.

The Long-Range Forecast

Looking out further, there are some big waves on the horizon for the 10th, with an 8ft SSE swell, but it's a short-period, junky swell. The 11th looks wild, with a massive 15ft, short-period SE swell and a strong 28 mph onshore wind. That's not surf; that's a washing machine and likely a storm. It will be a day for looking at, not paddling out.

So, to sum it up: there are a few clean moments nestled between a lot of junky, blown-out surf. The best for most will be that glassy window on the 8th and 9th of September. For the experts, Saturday the 5th could be a wild, challenging day. Stay patient, respect the ocean, and pick your waves wisely.

Rusty.

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