Pitstops Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here.

It’s a quiet start at Pitstops, but the back half of the forecast has some real fire.

First few days – Tuesday through Thursday this week – it’s waist-to-chest high at 4 ft out of the SSW, with a long 14–15 second period. Winds are cross-off in the mornings and clean, but afternoons get a cross-shore chop. Wave energy’s moderate (530–910). Water temp’s 85°F, about normal for this time of year.

Friday the 18th drops right off – only 3 ft and weak energy, with the afternoon a total loss.

Then Saturday morning, 19th September – 4 ft SSW groundswell with a very long 18-second period and light cross-off winds from the SSE at 6 mph. Energy jumps to 840, and it’s forecast for very good surf. Reef break, so that long period will wrap in clean – not too crowded (often a few out).

Sunday 20th and Monday 21st keep it rolling: 5 ft from the SSW to S, periods 14–16 seconds, light breezes, cross-off and clean. Energy in the 800s. Mornings are the pick.

A small lull Tuesday 22nd into Wednesday 23rd, but still some clean windows.

The main event – Saturday 26th September afternoon. 5 ft of S swell with a massive 20-second period and glassy conditions (wind 3 mph from the S, near calm). Energy hits 2104 – strong, powerful groundswell. This reef will handle it, but at over 5 ft with that period, it’s for experts only. Clean and lined up.

Sunday 27th September – 6 ft S swell at 17 seconds, glassy in the afternoon with no wind. Energy 2179. Expert territory again. Mornings are cross-off and clean.

After that, swell backs off through Monday 28th and Tuesday 29th – waist-to-chest high, light winds, still fun but not the standouts.

So mark your calendar for Saturday 26th afternoon and Sunday 27th at Pitstops. That’s the gold.

Rusty.

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