Pitstops Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s talk Pitstops. For the next couple weeks, the first few days are a bit of a write-off, but there’s a couple of real standout sessions coming up. Don’t let the first few days fool you.

Starting off Sunday the 23rd, we have a 1.6m south swell with a 14-second period. That’s a decent 5ft of energy, with combined swell energy at 1407. But the wind is a cross-off from the SSE at 15 mph, and it’s going to mess with the face. The water is a warm 29°, which is normal for the season. The afternoon drops off, and through Monday and Tuesday morning it’s just marginal with a chance of thunderstorms.

The real deal starts Tuesday the 25th. Morning sees a 1.2m (4ft) south swell, 15-second period, and the wind drops to a light 6 mph cross-off. Clean, with 758 energy. The forecast says “very good” for that morning, but watch for those afternoon storms.

Wednesday the 26th is a beauty early. Glassy, dead calm wind, with a 1.0m (3ft) south swell at a 13-second period. The energy is 457, but with no wind it’ll be like a mirror. Good for all levels.

Then we hit Thursday the 27th. This is the one. The morning is glassy again, with a 0.9m (3ft) swell from the SSW, but the period is 19 seconds. That’s proper long-period groundswell. The energy jumps to 1050. The afternoon is the star: a 1.4m (5ft) SSW swell, 18-second period, and a huge energy reading of 1764. Glassy conditions. The lines will be long and powerful. This is a session for the experienced crew. The swell direction is spot on for the break.

Friday the 28th is still good, with a 1.4m (5ft) SSW swell and 16-second period, but the wind is back up to a 12 mph cross-off from the southeast. The energy is 1021, so still hefty. But Thursday is the clear winner.

Heading into the first week of September, Monday the 31st and Tuesday the 1st bring back 1.2m to 1.4m (4ft to 5ft) SSW swell with steady 16 to 18-second periods. Light cross-off wind at 6 mph. Energy readings in the 1000-1184 range. Very clean and powerful. Another solid window for a good paddle.

After that, from the 3rd into the second week, the swell drops under a metre (3ft) with shorter periods. There’s still a few glassy windows, like the morning of the 5th with a 1.2m (4ft) south swell and 975 energy, but it’s not as consistent as the week before.

So, to cut it short: Thursday the 27th afternoon is your absolute best bet. The week starting the 31st is a very strong second place. The first weekend is a no-go, and the second week is iffy for anything more than a small wave.

Keep an eye on the sky, and I’ll catch you in the lineup.

- Rusty

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