Pitstops Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty, and I’ve got a look at what’s coming up for Pitstops over the next couple of weeks. I’ll be straight with you – it’s a mixed bag and you’ll want to pick your moments.

We’ve got a run of surf that starts on Monday the 7th of September, but to be honest, the first few days are a bit of a grind. There’s clean-looking swell on offer, but the wind is a persistent cross-off breeze – mostly from the SE quadrant – and it’s blowing at a solid 16 mph, coming down to 12 mph. That constant wind keeps the waves from being really special. The energy is there, with a moderate combined swell energy (819-1127), and the swell is a mix of long-period S and SSW groundswell, mostly around 3ft to 5ft. The water temperature is about average for the time of year, so nothing unusual there.

The first real standout window that starts to get my blood pumping is Thursday the 10th of September. The morning session looks the best of the early week. We’ve got a 3ft SSW swell with a 16-second period, and the wind drops to a gentle 9 mph cross-off breeze from the SE. The combined energy is moderate (950), and the call is for very good surf conditions. The water is clean, the sets will have some push, and it’s not going to be too big for most surfers. The afternoon sees a light cross-shore, so stick to the morning.

Friday the 11th of September is another good shout. The morning is looking clean with a light 6 mph cross-off breeze and a similar 4ft SSW swell at 16 seconds. Another solid moderate energy reading (980) and clean conditions. The afternoon gets a bit messy, so again, morning is the go.

The second week is where the potential gets a bit more interesting, but also less certain. We have a gap of a few days with no real standouts before we get to Saturday, the 19th of September. The morning of the 19th sees a 5ft SSW swell with a 16-second period and a moderate breeze (16 mph) from the SSE, but the waves are clean. The energy is getting stronger (1158).

The real standout, the one I’m looking at with real excitement, is the morning of Monday the 21st of September. The wind is going to be light and variable from the SE, just 6 mph, and the swell is a solid 4ft from the S with a 15-second period. The combined energy is strong (1512), and the call is for *excellent surf conditions for experienced surfers*. Clean, solid, and with that long period, the waves will have plenty of shape and power. This is the one to circle on your calendar.

But if you want the biggest, most powerful swell of the whole run, it’s Tuesday the 22nd of September. We’re looking at a 7ft S swell roaring in with a 20-second period. The combined energy is very strong (4294). The wind is light and offshore from the ENE. That’s a powerful, clean groundswell. At 7ft, it’s getting into expert territory, especially at a reef break like Pitstops. The long period means it will be holding up and offering some serious barrels, but it’s not for the faint-hearted. It’s a world-class looking day for the crew who can handle it, but it’s a long way out, so keep an eye on the forecasts.

Pitstops is a very consistent reef break, which is a big plus. It’s often crowded, so expect company, especially on any of the cleaner days. For the early part of the run, the wind is a bit of a factor, but the last week has some serious potential. If you’re an experienced surfer, the 21st and 22nd are the ones. If you want something smaller and cleaner, the 10th and 11th are your best bets.

Rusty.

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