Le Poux Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. Honestly, the next couple of weeks are looking pretty grim around here. We’ve got a ton of energy in the water at times, but it’s almost all coming with messy, cross-onshore winds that are going to chop everything up. You’re going to want to be picky, and honestly, for most of this stretch, you might be better off finding something else to do.

We start off on Wednesday the 19th with some rain and bumpy conditions. There’s a weak, short-period swell showing at 3ft from the west, but the cross-on breeze is going to make it a real battle (combined energy of all swells directed here at 56). Nothing to get excited about.

Thursday the 20th gets a little more interesting as that west swell builds to 5ft in the morning, pushing up to 5ft by the afternoon. Period bumps up to 9 seconds, and the energy jumps to a moderate 390 (combined energy of all swells directed here). But here’s the catch: it’s all cross-onshore and choppy again. So while there’s more size, the quality just isn’t there.

Friday the 21st is our first glimmer of hope. The morning drops to 3ft, but the wind goes totally glassy. It’s not big, but it’s clean. The energy is weak at 106, but if you’re jonesing for a few head-high-ish waves, this might be your only real window in the near term. The afternoon stays clean with a light NE cross-off, but it’s down to 2ft.

Then we hit a real dry spell. From Saturday the 22nd all the way through to Tuesday the 26th, the swell just dies. We’re looking at ankle-biters in the 0.7ft to 1ft range. There’s some clean, offshore wind in there, especially Saturday and Sunday, but there’s just nothing to push you around. It’s flat, plain and simple.

We get a pulse of energy on Thursday the 27th with 5ft to 5ft from the west, but it’s got a short, 6-8 second period and it’s accompanied by a moderate cross-onshore breeze. The energy reads as moderate at 221, but the quality is poor. It’s going to be a messy, bumpy mess.

Friday the 28th is a write-off. We’ve got 25 mph south winds, light rain, and a junky, short-period swell. The energy is weak at 75, but the conditions are plain hostile. Not for paddling, that’s for sure. Maybe keep an eye out for the kite crew, because this is more their scene.

The weekend of the 29th and 30th sees things settle down a bit, with the swell settling back to a clean-ish 4ft to 4ft, and the winds easing to a gentle cross-on. It’s surfable, but just very ordinary, with the energy reading around 164 to 217. You’ll get some waves, but you’ll be working for them in less-than-ideal shape.

The start of next week, Monday the 31st, has a slightly larger swell arriving, 5ft with a 8 second period. The energy is a moderate 386, but it’s still cross-on and a bit lumpy. It’s a “maybe” at best, with questionable tide conditions.

Tuesday, September 1st, shows another pulse, with a 6ft SSW swell in the morning, but with a terrible 5-second period and a cross-shore wind. That’s just shambolic. The afternoon cleans up a bit, dropping to 5ft and the wind going light, but the rating is still marginal.

The last couple of days of the forecast, September 2nd and 3rd, fade out quietly. Wednesday the 2nd sees a drop back to 3ft to 3ft, with a small window of glassy conditions in the afternoon. Thursday the 3rd is back down to smaller, weaker, cross-shore dribble.

So, the long and short of it is this: if you’re desperate, Friday the 21st looks like the cleanest, most user-friendly wave, even if it’s small. If you want a bit more size, you’re rolling the dice with the bumpy, cross-onshore slop on the 27th or the 31st. But there’s nothing here that’s a real standout. It’s a waiting game, and you might be waiting a while for the next true swell.

Rusty.

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