Le Poux Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ at Le Poux. I gotta be straight with you – this stretch of coast is not exactly firing for the next couple of weeks. The problem is that nearly every time we get a bit of swell, the wind is blowing straight onshore or cross-on, which just trashes the place.

The first real chance of anything surfable is Saturday morning, 5 September. The swell is a tiny 2 ft from the west, with a period of 9 seconds, and the combined energy is weak (83). The real winner here is the wind: a light 6 mph offshore from the northeast. That’ll clean things up nicely. The water’s at 68°, which is much warmer than normal for this time of year – a solid 5° above average, so you can leave the thick wetsuit at home. It’s a rare break, so don’t expect a crowd, but you might have it to yourself. It’s not a standout, but it’s the best we’ve got early on.

After that, we have a long dry spell. The surf just doesn’t come together. Wind swings onshore again, the swell is tiny or messy. It’s a real blank run from Sunday afternoon right through to the second week. There’s a little blip on Monday morning, 14 September, where we get a 6 ft swell from the west, but it’s short period (6 seconds) and the wind is offshore from the east at 16 mph. The combined energy is moderate (207). That’s clean, but the wave shape will be fat and weak with that short period. For a beach and reef setup, that’s a bit of a letdown. It’s surfable, and the offshore wind will make it look good, but it’s not gonna be a classic.

The real standout – and I’m marking it in my calendar – is Tuesday morning, 15 September. The swell jumps to 6 ft from the west-northwest, period bumps up to 10 seconds, and the combined energy is strong (322). That’s proper groundswell energy. The wind is light from the south-southwest at 6 mph, so it’s cross-on, but it’s light. This is the best mix of size and power in the whole 16-day window. It’s gettable. Just be aware that long-period swell like this tends to break straight at beach breaks, so with Le Poux being a beach and reef setup, it might actually hold up better on the reef sections. It’s not a beginner wave at 6 ft, but it’s not a monster either. This is the pick of the fortnight.

The rest of the second week fades back to small, clean leftovers with no real punch. The final Wednesday morning, 16 September, has a clean 2 ft swell with a 10-second period and offshore wind, but it’s just too small to get excited about.

So, bottom line: Saturday morning the 5th for a clean, small session, and Tuesday the 15th for the most power and size. Don’t hold your breath for the days in between.

Rusty.

Read more