Le Poux Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, grab a coffee, this one’s a bit of a read. The outlook for the next two weeks around here is a real mixed bag, to be honest. We’ve got some swell coming, but the wind and the conditions are going to be the main talking point. Let’s get into it.

We’re looking at a long stretch of pretty average surf, to be honest. For the first week, from Sunday the 23rd through most of the following week, it’s mostly small waves. The standout in the first part of the period is a rare one. Le Poux is a beach and reef setup that ‘rarely breaks’, but it’s the only game in town. The water temp is running at 68°, which is a good 5° warmer than usual for this time of year – that’s pretty unusual, really.

Sunday morning the 23rd sees the first bit of swell, a tiny 1.0 ft from the west with a 9-second period. The offshore wind is clean though, but at 16 mph from the east, it’s a moderate breeze. The combined energy is weak, only 14. That afternoon it drops to 0.7 ft, still clean with a fresh breeze. Monday the 24th is even smaller, with 0.7 ft and a strong offshore breeze at 25 mph – that’s hard to paddle into. The energy is down to 7.

We get a little more life on Tuesday the 25th with a 2 ft north-northeast swell, but the wind is a cross-offshore from the southeast at 9 mph, keeping it clean. The energy is 30. Still, the waves are tiny. Wednesday the 26th sees a drop back to 1.0 ft, but Wednesday afternoon turns glassy, zero wind, with a 9-second west-northwest swell. It’s clean but not much to work with, energy at 18.

Thursday the 27th morning brings a bit more size, a 5 ft swell from the southwest, but it’s a short period of 5 seconds and lumpy from a fresh cross-onshore wind. The energy jumps to 96. Friday the 28th is where it gets real: a 6 ft swell in the morning with strong onshore winds and a risk of thunderstorms. The combined energy is 398 – moderate energy. It builds to 6 ft in the afternoon, with a 6-second period and fresh onshore wind. This is raw and messy.

Saturday the 29th is the biggest of the first week: a 8 ft west swell with a 9-second period, but it’s cross-onshore at 19 mph and lumpy. The energy hits 822, which is strong. That’s pretty powerful, but for a spot that rarely breaks, and with those winds, it’s going to be a chaotic, blown-out mess. That size is over 5 ft, so it’s too big for beginners. Sunday the 30th drops to 5 ft onshore, and Monday the 31st sees a return to small, 3 ft, with a 7-second period. The wind is cross-offshore from the east-southeast, and the wave comment says “surfable waves but very ordinary conditions.” It scores a 1 out of 10, the highest we see.

The second week from September 1st to the 7th is a write-off. We’ve got a big gap here, really. Most days are small, choppy, or blown out. Tuesday the 1st has 2 ft and 3 ft with cross-onshore winds. Wednesday and Thursday the 2nd and 3rd are tiny. Friday the 4th sees a 3 ft west swell with a 9-second period and gentle cross-onshore wind. The energy is 158, moderate. But Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th are back to being messy and windy, with rain showers and strong breezes. Monday the 7th is the final day with a 4 ft swell but a 44 mph gale onshore. That’s for kite-surfers, not paddle-surfers.

If I had to pick a standout, and it’s a rare one, it would be that few hours on Wednesday afternoon the 26th of August. It’s only 1.0 ft, but it’s glassy clean with a 9-second west-northwest swell. For a spot that almost never breaks, that’s a moment of pure, rare perfection.

Rusty

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