Le Poux Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s be honest, this forecast for Le Poux is a tough one. I’m looking at a full 16-day window and it’s a real mixed bag of mostly poor conditions, so I’ll take you through it day by day.

The overall pattern for Le Poux is pretty grim for a while. We’ve got some swell showing up, but the wind is just ruining it. For the first week and a half, the onshore and cross-onshore winds are a constant problem, making most of the waves a messy, choppy mess. The water temperature is at 67°F with an anomaly of 5°F, so it’s much warmer than normal for this time of year at this break.

Starting on Sunday the 6th, the surf is tiny and weak. We're looking at a 2ft swell from the west with a period of only 10 seconds, and the combined energy is just 47, which is very weak. A light wind keeps it glassy in the afternoon, but the swell is just too small to bother with. The whole first week, from the 6th through to the 12th, is a write-off. There's swell, but it's all under 5ft and the wind is either cross or onshore, creating chop. Even when we see a small push in energy on the 8th with 5ft swell and a combined energy of 760, the cross-onshore wind at 12-15 mph turns it into a messy wall. For the first week, there’s nothing rideable.

We finally see a shift around Friday the 11th with a bit more size, hitting 4ft, but again, the wind is onshore and the period is short at 8 seconds. It’s just not clean. The pattern of onshore wind continues through the middle of the month. We get a few pulses of better energy – like on the morning of the 18th with a 4ft swell from the west and 11-second period, and the energy is moderate at 319. But the cross-onshore wind from the SSW at 15 mph makes it a battle. That Friday afternoon the 18th has a combined energy of 624, which is moderate, and 4ft swell from the west, but it's still cross-onshore.

Now, the one bright spot. The only standout is the weekend of the 19th and 20th. On Saturday the 19th morning, we finally get a break with a cross-offshore wind from the NNE at 12 mph. The swell is 3ft from the west, with a 10-second period, and the combined energy is 150. It’s described as clean. By the afternoon, the wind goes fully offshore from the NE at 12 mph. The waves are 3ft from the west. It’s clean, it’s offshore, and for the first time, it’s actually surfable, even if the conditions are described as ordinary. Then Sunday the 20th keeps that offshore wind from the E and ENE at 15 mph, with a 2ft swell from the west, and a 9-second period. The combined energy drops to 61, so it’s small, but the wind is clean. This is the best you’ll get in the whole 16 days.

After that, Monday the 21st looks clean again with a cross-offshore and offshore wind from the ESE and E, with 2-3ft swell from the west, but the energy is low. So, a long wait for a couple of small, clean days.

Remember, Le Poux rarely breaks, and when it does, the wind is usually the issue. This run of poor conditions is a normal thing for the area.

Stay tuned, forecasts change.

Rusty.

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