Kohala Lighthouse Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it.

Honestly, the next couple of weeks are a bit of a write-off for any decent surf around here. We’ve got a long stretch of poor conditions ahead. The wind is just howling out of the ENE for days on end, cranking up that cross-shore chop and making a mess of everything. For the first four days, from Sunday the 30th through Wednesday the 3rd, it’s all blown-out and lumpy. The swell is there, pushing 6ft to 7ft, but it’s short-period windswell, around 8 seconds, and the energy is only moderate (between 282 and 627). It’s just not worth paddling out into that mess. The water temp is about average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The wind doesn’t let up as we head into the 4th and 5th of September. It actually gets worse, gusting up to around 31 mph right out of the east. The swell builds, hitting 10ft on Saturday the 5th, and the energy gets up there into the strong range (817 to 895). But with that kind of wind, it’s a washing machine. Honestly, that setup at Kohala Lighthouse (Big Island) looks way more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing. The waves are stormy and messy, and it’s just not fun.

After that blow, things start to settle down a bit, but it stays on the poor side. From the 6th through the 8th, the wind drops back to a fresh breeze, but the swell is still disorganised. By the 7th, we finally start to see some longer period energy come in, with periods jumping to 11-12 seconds. That’s a proper groundswell, and the energy really kicks in, hitting strong to very strong values (1151 to 1290). The swells are still around 7ft, which is sizeable. But the wind is still cross-shore, so the surface stays lumpy. It’s frustrating because you can feel the power is there, but the conditions just aren't cooperating.

Finally, on the 9th of September, things start to look a little more promising. It’s still only a marginal call, but the wind is set to ease right off. A light breeze, almost glassy, is forecast. That’s a huge positive. The swell is still a solid 8ft from the NE with a period around 10 seconds. The energy is strong (around 1271). This could be the standout window of the whole stretch. With that light wind, the reef at Kohala Lighthouse will clean right up. It’s an advanced spot, and with 8ft on the face, it’s well over the 8ft mark, meaning it’s only for experts. Definitely not one for the beginners. The downside here is the crowds are marked as "sometimes", but on a day like this after a crappy week, you might get a few more out. But with the better conditions, it could be worth jostling for position. Just remember, this is a week out, so treat it as promising but not a done deal.

The next day, the 10th, is still holding on with a light morning breeze, but the swell period drops back down to 8 seconds, so it loses that quality groundswell push. By the afternoon, the wind is back up, and the window closes.

From the 11th through the 14th, we’re back to a poor forecast. The swell backs right off, dropping to 3ft by the 12th, and the energy fades away to weak-to-moderate (193-258). The wind is back in that cross-shore groove, so it’s more of the same blown-out slop.

So overall, after a rough, windy start that’s a total blank for the first four days, the one true glimmer of hope is the morning of the 9th. That’s your best bet. It’s a long way out, conditions can change, but if that light wind holds, the Kohala Lighthouse could produce some serious, expert-only waves.

Rusty.

Read more