Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright gang, Rusty here. Let’s break down what’s happenin’ at Junkyards.

The first real window of opportunity starts on Tuesday morning, August 11th. We’ve got a 1.6m S swell with a 10-second period, so moderate wave energy at 490. The wind is a cross-offshore from the SE, keepin’ the surface clean. The water’s at a normal 29°, which is about average for this time of year. Junkyards is a reef break, and this S swell (close to the optimum SW) should be workin’ well. This is a solid pick for intermediates, but that 1.6m might be a bit much for beginners.

The absolute standout of the whole forecast is lookin' out toward Tuesday, August 25th. We’ve got a very long period groundswell of 14 seconds from the SE, pushin’ 2.5m. That’s a massive 2463 in energy – proper big-wave territory. This is for experts only, and with the swell direction not exactly matchin’ the optimum SW, it could be a bit tricky at the reef. The wind is light from the S, so there’s a little cross-chop, but it’s manageable. It’s a long-range call, so don’t bet the farm on it, but if it lines up, it’ll be a day to remember.

Before that big one, there are some smaller, cleaner days. Wednesday morning, the 12th, has a 1.1m S swell (331 energy) with a cross-offshore breeze. Then Wednesday afternoon goes glassy – a 1.3m SSW swell with 9 seconds and zero wind. That’s a perfect session window. Saturday morning, the 15th, also has a clean 1.1m SSW swell with light E winds, and Sunday the 16th morning is similar with a 1.0m SSW swell.

The stretch from the 18th through the 24th gets pretty weak. The swell drops under 1.0m, and the wind is often strong, even hittin’ 40 km/h from the ENE on the 23rd. That’s blown-out, nasty stuff. The energy drops to under 100, which is essentially flat. Not worth the paddle.

The very end of the window, on the 26th of August, we see a massive 3.5m S swell with a 15-second period, but it’s comin’ with a cross-onshore wind from the SSW. That’s a recipe for a messy, dangerous, and ugly lineup. The energy is off the charts at 6010, but it’s for experts only, and even then, it’s just not gonna be pretty. Kite surfers might be the only ones havin’ fun.

So, for the best bets: The Tuesday morning window on the 11th of August is a solid, reliable start. The glassy Wednesday afternoon on the 12th is a gem. And if you’re a big-wave charger, keep an eye on that Tuesday the 25th of August – it’s the one that could be epic if the wind plays nice.

Rusty.

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