Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. This is Rusty.

Look, I’m gonna level with you straight up. We’ve got a pretty bleak run ahead for our only real option, Junkyards. For a solid stretch the overall pattern is small, messy, or blown out. There’s no standout session that screams at you to drop everything and paddle out. We’re looking at a long gap with nothing much to recommend. You’re going to want to wait for the back half of the period, but even that is for the diehards.

Wednesday afternoon kicks things off with a tiny 3 ft SSW swell, period at 10 seconds. The wind is howling offshore from the ENE at 16 mph, so the surface will look clean. But the energy is weak, only 175 on the combined scale. You’ll get a wave, but it’s ordinary. You wouldn’t be stoked.

Thursday morning at Junkyards, the swell stays tiny, 3 ft from the SSW, period bumps to 11 seconds. The wind is off the sand from the north at 12 mph, but there’s a risk of thunderstorms. It’s marginal.

Thursday afternoon goes downhill fast. A 3 ft SW swell with a 12-second period has a touch more energy (275), but the wind swings onshore from the WNW. That’s a no-go.

Friday brings the biggest swell of the entire run, but don’t get excited. We see 4 ft from the SW on Friday morning, with the combined energy popping to 542 – that’s moderate, decent power for a second. But the wind is blowing strong onshore from the SW at 16 mph. It’s a washout. Poor conditions.

Saturday offers a slight reprieve with a 3 ft S swell and an 8-second period, but that’s short period, weak energy (227). The wind is cross-off from the NNE, keeping it clean, but it’s still a marginal day at best.

From Sunday, September 7th, right through to Wednesday, September 16th, it’s almost entirely a write-off. The swell drops into the 0.7 ft to 2 ft range, with periods that are mostly short. The combined energy figures are in the double digits or low triple digits at best. Most days are scored as poor. There are a few mornings with glassy, offshore ENE winds, like on the morning of the 11th and the 13th, but with a 2 ft or 1 ft wave, you’re just floating. It’s a long, flat patch.

The only glimmer, and I mean a tiny glimmer, is that Junkyards is a reef setup. It is fairly consistent, so it needs less swell than a beach to produce a wave. The optimum swell direction for this spot is SW, and we do get that direction on the 4th, but the wind ruins it. The water temperature is 84°F with a zero anomaly, so that’s average for this time of year, nothing unusual.

If you’re a beginner, anything over 5 ft would be too much, and we barely touch 4 ft, so it’s not a safety concern. The bigger issue is that from the 8th onwards, the swell is so tiny it’s hardly surfable.

Honestly, there are several days in a row here where the only energy coming in is less than 100 on that combined scale – that’s flat. If you’re looking to surf, you better have a log and low expectations for the next two weeks. Nothing here is truly worth paddling out for.

Rusty.

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