Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s coming down the line for Junkyards.

First thing you need to know: the water is sitting at 86°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. Not a huge deal, but you can leave the thick rubber at home.

Now, the outlook for the next 16 days is a real mixed bag. It kicks off with a massive pulse of energy, but don’t get too excited yet. The first few days are a write-off for surfing. We’ve got a huge Westerly swell pushing through, with heights over 20ft and combined wave energy reading 6458 (strong energy), but the wind is howling out of the WNW at a gale force 43 mph, completely cross-on. It’s a total blowout – a mess of risk tstorms and onshore wind. That’s Friday the 7th of August. Saturday the 8th gets even bigger, with swell peaking at 25ft and energy hitting 17427 (very strong energy), but the wind switches to a severe gale out of the South. The waves will be huge and crossing, and it’s just too big and dangerous for any kind of paddle session. Honestly, if you’re into kiting, this setup might be wild, but for a surfboard, it’s a no-go.

Sunday the 9th drops a bit to 15ft, but the wind is still a strong cross-shore breeze making a mess of things. The swell period is a long 11 seconds, which would normally mean some power, but the wind just kills it. The energy is still high (7961), but the conditions are poor. This whole first week is a washout – we’re looking at a 5-day gap of nothing but nasty, blown-out surf.

Things start to turn around on Wednesday the 12th. The swell drops right down to 5ft, and the wind shifts Westerly, going light. We’re still not there yet, but you can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

The real standout window opens up on Thursday the 13th. The swell is a manageable 5ft from the SSW, with a period of 9 seconds. The wind is offshore from the Northeast at a moderate 12 mph, giving us clean, lined-up waves. The energy is modest (317), but with that offshore wind, Junkyards will be clean and fun. Friday the 14th and Saturday the 15th keep that same vibe: small 4ft to 4ft SSW swell, light offshore winds, and clean conditions. It’s not a big day, but for a reef break that’s fairly consistent, and with the wind right, you’ll get some nice, clean runners. The best of the lot is likely Thursday morning through Friday afternoon – that offshore flow and waist-to-chest high swell will be the pick of the entire forecast.

After that, things taper off. From Sunday the 16th onward, the swell drops under 3ft, and the energy dips below 150. The wind stays offshore for a bit, but the waves are just too small to get excited about. By the 19th and 20th, the swell is basically flat, with strong offshore winds making it clean but empty. The last week is a long stretch of small, weak surf.

So, to wrap it up: the first week is a total write-off thanks to gale-force winds and massive swell. The only real window to paddle out is from Thursday the 13th through to Saturday the 15th, with Thursday and Friday standing out as the best – clean, offshore, and a nice little SSW groundswell. Don’t expect anything big, but it’ll be the only surfable time in the whole 16 days.

Rusty.

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