Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s cookin’ at Junkyards.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you – this is a rough start. The first few days are a total write-off. We’re talking a gale-force cross-shore blending with a massive 21.3ft swell from the SSW, creating a dangerous, blown-out mess. The combined wave energy is absolutely pumping at a whopping 10360 (moderate to strong wave energy), but it’s unsurfable. That stormy, onshore mayhem hangs around through Saturday, Sunday, and into Monday. It’s not until Thursday morning, August 13th, that we finally get a clean window. The wind switches to a light cross-offshore breeze from the NNE, and the swell drops to a manageable 4.6ft from the SSW with a period of 9 seconds. The water’s sitting at a warm 86.0°F, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. It’s a small, clean wave, but that’s the best on offer in the first week.

After that, the surf gets tiny. From Friday the 14th through to the middle of the following week, we’re scraping the barrel with knee-high slop and onshore breezes. There’s a brief moment on Sunday afternoon, August 16th, where the wind goes glassy, but the swell is only 2.3ft. It’s surfable, but barely.

Now, hold on to your boards, because the end of the outlook gets interesting. After a long, flat spell, we see a new pulse of energy arriving on Thursday afternoon, August 20th. The swell jumps back up to 9.8ft from the SE, with a period of 10 seconds. The combined energy kicks up to 1826 (moderate wave energy). The wind will be a strong cross-offshore breeze, keeping it clean. This is a big, powerful wave, well over 8.2ft, so this is strictly for experienced surfers only. The Friday morning, August 21st, looks like the standout of the entire run. You’ve got an 8.2ft SE swell, a period of 9 seconds, and a clean, fresh offshore wind from the East. The energy is still strong at 1208. That’s a proper, punchy wall for the crew that knows how to handle it. The optimum swell direction for this reef is from the SW, so this SE swell is a bit off-angle, but the clean conditions and size make it the best bet.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a total loss. The best window is the clean, moderate swell on Thursday the 13th, but the real standout, the one to circle on your calendar, is the bigger, cleaner swell on Friday morning, August 21st. Get on it.

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