Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s cookin’ for Junkyards. It’s a reef setup, exposed to the swell, and it’s a fairly consistent spot, so it usually has something to offer. But the next week and a half is gonna test your patience. The water temp is sittin’ around 84°, which is pretty much dead average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

Right now, we’re in a flat spell that stretches all the way from today through to the morning of Saturday the 12th. That’s a solid 5 days of just plain tiny, weak junk. The odd ripple in the water, but nothing you’d bother paddling out for. You’d be better off changin’ plugs in the car.

Saturday, September 12th – That’s when things get interesting. The afternoon brings a jump in swell to 6ft, coming from the SE. The energy jumps right up to 579 (moderate wave energy) which is a massive step up. The wind goes offshore from the E at 16 mph, so that’s clean and lined up. It’s a short-period chop at 10 seconds so it won’t be the most refined groundswell, but for Junkyards, this is the standout of the whole window. The offshore flow should hold the faces open.

Sunday, September 13th – The swell drops back to 3ft in the morning and then 2ft later, from the SSE and S. Still an offshore breeze keeping it tidy, but it’s small and ordinary. The energy is back down to 126 and then 73. Just okay. You could get a slide but it’s not gonna be memorable.

Then we hit another flat, weak patch right through to the 16th, with nothing over 2ft and mostly junk energy.

Thursday, September 17th – This is the other one to circle. Right through the day we’ve got a 3ft to 3ft groundswell from the SW at a nice long 12 to 13 seconds. That’s proper groundswell period for a reef. Combined energy sits at 306 and 407, so there’s real push behind it. Cross-off wind from the SE at 6 mph keeping it glassy and clean. This is the kind of day Junkyards wants.

Friday, September 18th – Slightly bigger again at 5ft from the SE, but the period drops to 8 seconds. The energy is still up at 464 and 396, so plenty of juice, but the shorter period might make it a bit lumpy and fat on the takeoff. Still, cross-off winds at 6 mph mean the surface should be clean.

After that, it dribbles away again into the last weekend. Sunday the 20th there is a moment of total glass in the morning with 2ft, but it’s weak and small. The 21st has some push with 2ft at 11 seconds from the SW, but only 57 to 55 energy.

Bottom line: If you’re keen, make a plan for Saturday the 12th afternoon – that’s the biggest and most punchy of the whole window, and the offshore wind seals the deal. The 17th and 18th are your cleaner, longer-period options for the reef, but with smaller wave heights. The rest of it is a long, drawn-out wait.

Stay patient, stay wet.
– Rusty

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