Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, it's your mate Rusty here, and I've got to be straight with you – the outlook for the next couple of weeks at Junkyards is a bit of a wild ride. For the most part, we're looking at tiny, weak surf with pretty average conditions. The water temp is sitting at about 83°F, which is pretty much what you'd expect for this time of year.

The first few days are a real struggle. From Friday the 11th through to the middle of the week, the swell is just small and weak, mostly around 1ft to 3ft from the south and southeast, with a short period of 6 to 7 seconds. The wave energy is really low, hitting only single-digit numbers (9, 8, 39). The wind is generally a cross-off from the east-southeast, so the surface is clean enough, but there's just no power in the water. It's more of a paddle and a tan than a surf.

There's then a long gap from about Wednesday the 16th up until the morning of Sunday the 20th where there's basically no swell at all – a flat spell you could sleep through.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting, but you've got to pay attention to the date. On Monday the 21st of September, things switch up dramatically. We get a sudden, big pulse of swell, hitting 8ft from the northwest. The energy is massive, a whopping 1505, and with a long period of 11 seconds. This is serious, powerful groundswell. The problem? The wind is going to be howling straight out of the north at 37 to 47 mph, creating a dangerous, messy cross-off situation. This size and power is strictly for experts only, and even then, it'll be a battle to get out and a test of nerves.

The day after, Tuesday the 22nd, the swell drops to a still-chunky 4ft from the west-northwest, but the wind swings around to the northwest and cranks up to 53 mph, turning the place into a washing machine. It’s a severe gale cross-onshore, completely blown out.

The following days from Wednesday the 23rd to the end of the outlook see the wind and swell slowly drop off, leaving behind messy, choppy conditions and then eventually flat again. Honestly, for anyone who isn't a big-wave charger, the whole 16-day window is a write-off.

There are no standout sessions for a normal paddle surfer here. The one dramatic swell event is a monster that will be too dangerous and blown out for most.

Rusty, signing off.

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