Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's on the cards for the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, I gotta be straight with you— this is a lean stretch. We're looking at a long, quiet run with very little to get excited about. The only real window of any note is right at the start, and even then, it's a short-lived pulse.

The first bit of action comes in on Thursday the 3rd of September. The swell pops up to about 3 ft from the SSW with a period of 11 seconds. That's a groundswell, which is good for shape, but the combined energy is only weak, around 215 (moderate energy). The real kicker is the wind. Thursday morning we've got a NNE breeze at 9 mph blowing cross-offshore, which is great for keeping things clean. The water temp is sitting right on 84°, which is bang on average for this time of year. It's a marginal call with the risk of thunderstorms, but that morning window might just offer a few fun ones.

Now, the swell bumps up a touch heading into Friday and Saturday, hitting 5 ft from the SSW on Saturday morning. But the wind swings around to the SSW and SW, blowing cross-onshore and chopping it all up. The energy climbs a bit, hitting 480 (moderate wave energy) on Saturday morning, but with that wind and the risk of storms, it's not going to be a pretty sight. The short period of 8 to 9 seconds means the waves won't have much push either.

For the standout in this whole outlook, I’d point to that Thursday the 3rd morning session at Junkyards. It’s not big, but with that 3 ft SSW swell and the clean cross-offshore wind, it’s the only time the conditions line up right. Just keep an eye on the sky for those storms.

After that, it's a long, slow slide into nothing. From Sunday the 6th onwards, the swell drops away fast. The energy levels fall off a cliff, dropping to just 94 (weak energy) and then down to single digits. The wind is all over the place, but it doesn't matter much because there's barely any swell to ride. We're looking at days of flat, clean, but empty water. The forecast runs dry for the entire second week, with the swell effectively gone from the 14th of September onward. That's a solid week-long gap with no recommendations.

If you're a kite surfer, there might be some wind to play with on the bigger days, but for a paddle surfer, this is a time to get the gear sorted and wait for the next system.

Rusty.

Read more