Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a proper look at what’s on the cards for Junkyards over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, so strap in.

Right off the bat, we’re looking at a pretty average start. The first few days are a bit of a write-off for a proper session. Saturday the 22nd afternoon is a mess with a SSE cross-breeze at 16 mph blowing across a lumpy 8 ft S swell. The energy is up there (1161), but the wind is just ruining it. Sunday the 23rd improves a little – we’ve got a cleaner 6 ft SSW swell with ESE cross-offshore winds, but it’s still just *okay*, not really a standout. Monday and Tuesday are smaller and weaker, with the swell dropping below 3 ft, so don’t bother.

Then things get pretty wild. Wednesday the 26th and Thursday the 27th are a total no-go. We’re talking a massive, messy, wind-whipped ocean. On Wednesday, the swell jumps to 13 ft-16 ft with strong cross-onshore winds, and the energy readings are through the roof (2432 to 5668). Thursday is even worse – a severe gale, 50 mph winds, 16 ft swell, and a combined energy of 6769. That’s not surf; that’s survival. Leave the boards at home, maybe check the kite gear if you’re into that kind of thing, but for paddle surfing, it’s a hard pass.

We get a bit of a breather on Friday the 28th. The wind eases to a fresh cross-offshore breeze, and the swell settles to 7 ft-10 ft. The energy is still high (1941-2219), and the period stretches to 12 seconds – that’s some proper groundswell energy. It’s a marginal call, but the morning session on Friday (28th) with that 7 ft WSW swell could be worth a look if you’re experienced. The water is a warm 84°F, which is about average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

Saturday the 29th and Sunday the 30th are small and clean, with 3 ft-6 ft SSW swells and light offshore winds. It’s rideable but nothing to get excited about.

Now, here’s the one that’s got my attention. The standout window is the 5th of September. We’ve got a proper pulse coming in. Saturday morning (5th September) is looking exceptional for expert surfers. The swell is a solid 18 ft from the WSW, with a long 12-second period, and the wind is a clean, moderate offshore breeze from the ENE. The energy is massive (8112). This is a serious, powerful groundswell hitting the reef. The period is over 11 seconds, so expect long, powerful lines – this is a point/reef wave, so it should handle it well. The water is still warm, and the combined energy is huge. Saturday afternoon holds at 16 ft, still clean and offshore. If you’re an expert, this is the session to circle on the calendar. For the less experienced, stay well clear – 16 ft+ on a reef is a scary place.

Sunday the 6th September still has a big 10 ft-12 ft W swell, but the wind goes cross-offshore, and the energy drops a bit. It’s still a powerful wave, but the quality isn’t as pristine as the Saturday.

So, the plan? The first week is a write-off, with a big, ugly storm in the middle. The best of the best is clearly Saturday the 5th of September at Junkyards. A massive, clean, powerful groundswell with perfect offshore winds. It’s a long way out, so the forecast could shift, but right now, that’s the one to pin your hopes on.

Rusty.

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