Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, this is Rusty. Let me break down the next couple of weeks for you at Junkyards.

Right now, we are in a flat spell. For the next few days through to early next week, it’s just tiny, weak dribble. We’re talking ankle-snappers at best, with barely any energy in the water (combined swell energy around 13 to 21). Wind is criss-crossing, mostly onshore or cross-onshore, so don’t even bother paddling out. This stretch is a write-off, clear through to Tuesday morning, the 7th.

But then, hold onto your board. Tuesday afternoon, the 7th, we see a big pulse start to roll in. The swell jumps to 5ft, but the real story is the period hitting 17 seconds with massive energy (1062). That’s proper groundswell, and it’s just the appetizer.

The standouts are Wednesday the 8th and Thursday the 9th. Wednesday morning serves up a solid 10ft of clean, long-period SE groundswell (18 seconds, energy at 4969). The wind is a light cross-offshore breeze from the NNE, making for some really clean conditions. This is excellent surf for experienced surfers, but at 10ft, it’s getting mighty big for beginners. Thursday the 9th is the peak, with a 13ft swell in the morning, building to 15ft in the afternoon, coming from the SSE. The wind cranks offshore at 19 mph from the NE, keeping the faces clean. The energy readings are off the charts (over 10,000). This is serious, powerful stuff.

Now, a word of caution for the end of the week. By Friday the 10th and Saturday the 11th, the swell is just *huge*. We’re talking 31ft on Friday morning with an insane 91,951 energy. This wave is simply too big for this break, even with the clean cross-offshore wind. This is expert-only, big-wave territory, and realistically, it might be more of a spectacle than a session for most. The period drops a bit on the 11th (14 seconds), which helps, but it’s still massive.

After that peak, things ease off quickly. Saturday the 11th afternoon drops to 16ft, then Sunday the 12th we’re back to 10ft. The wind stays favorable, but the swell mixes up with shorter periods. The following week from Monday the 13th onward sees a steady drop-off, with clean conditions but fading size (6ft down to 2ft) and dropping energy (614 down to 74). It’s surfable for the keen on the longboards, but the magic from that mid-week window is gone.

The water temp here is 82°F, which is about 2 degrees cooler than usual for this time of year. Don’t let that put you off; it’s still warm.

So, to sum it up: you wait until Tuesday afternoon the 7th for the first proper sign of life. The absolute best on offer is the morning of Wednesday the 8th for that clean, long-period power, and the morning of Thursday the 9th for peak offshore conditions. But if you are not an expert surfer, be careful when the swell is over 10ft. The first few days of the forecast are a total dud.

Rusty.

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