Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what Junkyards has got cookin' for us over the next couple of weeks.

Right off the bat, it’s a bit of a rough start. The first few days are mostly a write-off, with poor surf conditions and cross-onshore winds making a mess of things. The water temp is sitting at a pretty standard 84°F, so nothing unusual there for this time of year. We’ll see a bit of a swell on Thursday the 27th, around 6ft from the west, but with that SSW wind blowing cross-on, it’s gonna be choppy and ugly. Not worth paddling out for.

We get a slight reprieve on Friday the 28th with cleaner conditions as the wind goes cross-off from the southeast, but the swell is small – 4ft to 5ft and short period, so it’s pretty weak. The combined energy is only around 386 to 560, so no real power there. Saturday is similar, with clean but weak surf. Sunday the 30th actually sees some offshore winds from the ENE, but the swell drops off to under 3ft, with combined energy down to 90 to 113. It’s rideable but ordinary.

Then things get messy again. Monday and Tuesday are a write-off with strong winds and rain, and the swell is all over the place. There’s a big spike in energy on Wednesday the 2nd of September with an 8ft swell from the south, but that strong cross-onshore wind blows it out completely. Thursday the 3rd is a monster – 21ft from the southwest with combined energy over 7200 – but again, it’s cross-onshore and lumpy. That’s not for paddling; that’s kite territory if you’re keen.

The real standout, and the only time I’d point you to Junkyards, is Saturday the 5th of September. We’ve got a 4ft swell from the south, with a period of 9 seconds, and – get this – glassy conditions. The wind is near zero from the east, and it’s rated as “expect good surf conditions.” The combined energy is a modest 348, but with that clean, glassy surface, it’ll be a fun little session. That’s your best bet in the whole 16-day window.

Sunday the 6th is offshore from the ENE but the swell drops to 3ft, and it’s only ordinary. After that, we get a massive swell event on the 8th and 9th of September. Tuesday the 8th has a 13ft to 16ft swell from the SSE with combined energy over 5400, and it’s clean with cross-off winds. That’s a big, powerful groundswell – period of 12 to 13 seconds – so it’s gonna be heavy. Only for experts, and it’ll be breaking straight on the beach, so watch out. Wednesday the 9th has a 16ft swell from the WNW, but the wind goes cross-shore, making it choppy again. The later part of the second week drops off into small, weak surf again.

So, bottom line: the only clear standout is Saturday the 5th of September for a clean, glassy session on small south swell. The big swells in the second week are for experienced surfers only, and the wind is a gamble.

Rusty.

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