Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let me tell you how it’s looking for the next couple of weeks. It’s a real mixed bag, and to be honest, we’ve got a pretty grim start.

First up, the only spot on the radar is Junkyards. It’s a reef setup, fairly consistent, and it needs a good SW swell to really light up. The water temp is sitting right on 84°, which is dead average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The outlook kicks off on Tuesday, 18 August, but don’t get your hopes up. We’re looking at tiny 2ft swell from the SW, with a period of just 8 seconds. The wind is a cross-offshore breeze at 16 mph, but the energy is weak (60). It’s a total write-off – poor surf conditions. The rest of that week and into the next is a real drag. We’ve got a stretch from Tuesday right through to Tuesday, 25 August, where the swell barely cracks 3ft, and most days are plagued by cross-off winds and very low energy (often under 100). The wind is a constant moderate to fresh breeze, usually around 16 to 19 mph, and the quality is just not there.

Now, there’s a spark of hope on the morning of Thursday, 28 August. A new S swell pushes in, but it’s only 2ft with a long 12-second period – that’s groundswell, which is good for the reef. The energy jumps to 144 (moderate), but the wind is a cross-on shore at 16 mph, making it choppy. It’s still poor. Then that afternoon, the swell jumps to 12ft, but the onshore wind ruins it.

The real standout, and the only one worth getting excited about, is Saturday, 29 August, and Sunday, 30 August. The swell is massive – we’re talking 23ft to 28ft from the S and SSW, with a very long period of 12 to 14 seconds. The energy is insane (14,552 and 26,614). But here’s the kicker: it’s way too big for Junkyards. The forecast actually says it’s too big for the break. This is for experts only, and even then, it’s a beast. The wind on the Saturday morning is a fresh cross-shore with lumpy chop, but Sunday morning looks clean with a cross-off breeze. Even so, waves over 8ft are only for the very experienced.

After that, it stays huge. Monday, 31 August, still sees 26ft SSW swell, and Tuesday, 1 September, has a 30ft SW swell. The wind is finally light and cross-off on Tuesday, but it’s still massive. This is a serious, serious swell event.

The best of the best? If you’re a hardcore big-wave charger, Sunday, 30 August morning is your window. The swell is 28ft from the S, period of 14 seconds, and the wind is cross-off and clean. It’s the only day where the conditions are clean and the swell is at its peak. But it’s a real mission and not for the faint-hearted.

If you’re after something more manageable, there’s a faint chance on Wednesday, 2 September morning. The swell drops to 16ft from the W, period of 12 seconds, with a cross-off breeze. The energy is still strong (7,197), but it’s a marginal call. It’s the only day in the second week that might be surfable for a strong intermediate, but it’s still big.

For the rest of us, it’s a long wait. The first week is a complete dud, and the second week is a monster swell that’s too big for the reef. Honest truth: this setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing, given the size and wind.

Keep an eye on the forecasts, but don’t hold your breath.

Rusty.

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