Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break down what’s coming for Junkyards. For most of the next two weeks, the surf is tiny and the conditions are pretty lackluster. There’s a long stretch of small, ordinary waves, and the energy is weak. The real highlight doesn’t show up until Saturday August 22nd, when things finally line up. Before that, expect a lot of days where the swell stays under 3 ft, with combined energy rarely above 200 (118–178 range), so it’s a quiet period.

Water temp is about average for this time of year, nothing special.

Let’s run through it. Thursday morning August 13th has a 3 ft S swell with period around 8 seconds and weak energy (178). Light E wind at 3 mph, so it’s clean but just ordinary. That afternoon the wind goes glassy from NNW, still tiny at 3 ft. Friday the 14th is a total loss with onshore wind and rain. Saturday the 15th has glassy morning conditions but only 2 ft S swell – longboard territory. Sunday the 16th morning is a little better with 3 ft from SSW and a clean cross-off breeze, but still small. Through the rest of the week the swell stays under 3 ft, and the wind picks up, making it look pretty average.

Now, Saturday August 22nd is the one to circle. That morning we get a 5 ft SSE swell with combined energy climbing to 333 – moderate at last. Wind is from SE at 9 mph, cross-off, so it’s clean. Then Saturday afternoon turns glassy with 4 ft from S, period 8 seconds, energy 239 – glassy conditions and fun little waves. This is the best part of the whole forecast. Junkyards is a reef break, so the S and SSE swell direction works nicely, and the wind is light. It’s not huge, but it’s clean and fun. The break is fairly consistent, and crowds are possible sometimes, so keep your eyes open.

After that, Sunday the 23rd drops back to 3 ft, and the rest of the forecast goes downhill with stronger winds and bigger but messy swell. The 21st actually sees a 7 ft SE swell but with strong cross-shore wind and lumpy conditions – that’s more for kite surfers than paddle surfers. The 26th through 28th has some bigger swell (5 ft to 5 ft) but gale-force winds and blown-out conditions, so no good for surfing.

So if you want the best waves, aim for Saturday August 22nd at Junkyards. The rest of the window is either too small or too blown out.

Rusty.

Read more