Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right, gather round. Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Junkyards over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, so don’t go getting too excited just yet.

For the next few days, we’re looking at clean conditions thanks to a cross-offshore breeze, but honestly, the swell’s pretty weak. On Friday morning the 28th, there’s some waist-high, 4ft swell coming in from the west, with moderate wave energy (552). The water’s a pleasant 84°F, which is pretty much normal for this time of year. That afternoon it drops off to knee-high, and we see that trend continue right through Saturday and Sunday. The wind goes offshore on Sunday morning, the 30th, but the swell’s tiny and the energy’s low (118). It’s not worth suiting up for.

Monday the 31st is even smaller, with a fresh offshore wind but waves barely over ankle-snappers. The first week of September kicks off with some stormy weather and a similar story. By Wednesday the 2nd, we get a jump in size, but it’s messy. There’s a 10ft swell from the SSW with a short, 8-second period, and the energy is strong (1055). But the wind is cross-shore, and with that short period it’ll be a washing machine. Thursday and Friday offer nothing special. The only real chance for a surf might be Saturday afternoon the 5th, with a gentle offshore wind and clean 3ft surf, but it’s very ordinary.

Now, if you’ve got patience, the real highlight is hiding in the second week. Mark your calendars for Sunday, the 6th of September. We’re looking at a big jump in size. The morning brings a solid 10ft swell from the WNW, but it’s a short-period 8 seconds, combined energy is pumping at 1237. The afternoon, though... that’s the standout. A 15ft swell from the WNW, a period of 10 seconds, and the energy reading is a massive 3681. Keep in mind, Junkyards is a reef break and this is a big, powerful groundswell. It will be for experts only. The wind is cross-offshore, so it could be clean, but this is a heavy, serious wave. It stays big on Monday the 7th with 12ft surf, but the wind picks up to near gale-force on Monday afternoon, making it a complete mess. After that, it drops off quickly, with the rest of the week looking poor and tiny again.

So, the real call here is for the crew who can handle it. The afternoon of the 6th of September is the best on offer, but it’s for experienced surfers only. For everyone else, this 16-day run looks pretty bleak.

Rusty.

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