Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, let's have a look at what Junkyards (Australia) has cookin' for us over this stretch. We're lookin' at a classic story here: a fair bit of ugly weather to sit through for a chance at a couple of real sweet moments.

It's a reef break, needs a good SW swell to get goin', and right now, it's pretty sleepy. The first few days are a write-off. Wednesday the 19th and Thursday the 20th are dominated by stormy winds and tiny, weak swell – you're talkin' swell energy barely breakin' 23 (combined energy), which is nothin' to write home about. The water temp is sittin' right on average for the time of year at 84°F, so no surprises there.

Friday the 21st shows a little pulse in the swell, up to 4ft from the SSW with moderate energy (222), but it's still messy with those storm clouds around. Saturday the 22nd is where the wheels come off, or on, dependin' on how you look at it. We get a massive jump in size – 13 to 15ft from the SSE – but the wind is a gale-force disaster in the morning. By Saturday afternoon, the wind drops right back to a gentle breeze, makin' it cross-off and clean. The swell energy is huge, over 2996, and the wave comment says it's excellent for experienced surfers. This is raw, powerful, heavy reef surf. It'll be too big for most, and with crowds possible, you'll be sharpshootin' for a bomb. That Saturday afternoon window is the standout for the gutsy crew.

Sunday the 23rd holds that big size, 12 to 15ft from the SSE, but the wind is back up to a strong breeze or worse, makin' it a battle. Monday the 24th is similar: big but battered by wind. Tuesday the 25th sees the swell back down to a more manageable 4-4ft from the S, with clean offshore winds from the ENE and NE. It’s a nice lookin' little window of moderate surf, but the energy is moderate too (418 and 295). A good day for a mid-length.

Then the forecast gets wild again. From the 26th through the 29th, it's just a mess of strong winds, storms, and weird, short-period swell. Not even worth paddlin' out.

But hold on. Look at Sunday the 30th. After all that chaos, the stars finally line up. There's no wind – a slight air, then a light offshore breeze. The swell is a solid 4 to 5ft from the WNW, with a good 10-second period and decent energy (627 and 484). The wave comment says "expect very good surf conditions." This is your session. It'll be clean, shapely, and have some real push to it. A perfect reef wave. Monday the 31st drops back down to average, and the rest of the first week of September is tiny and weak again, although Wednesday the 2nd afternoon has a moment with a glassy 4ft from the S (237).

So, the plan is simple: get your big-gun board ready for the Saturday 22nd afternoon, which is a serious, expert-only proposition. But the absolute best, most user-friendly good time is Sunday the 30th. Mark it in the calendar.

Rusty.

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