Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what Junkyards has got cooking for us over the next couple of weeks. It’s a bit of a mixed bag, but there are definitely a few windows to get excited about.

We kick off this Saturday, July 11th, with a major weather event. A severe gale is blowing from the southeast, and we've got a massive, very long-period groundswell from the SSE hitting the reef. We're talking 34 ft of raw energy. This is strictly for the pros. The wind is cross-off which keeps the face clean, but the sheer size and strength makes this a real life-or-death situation for anyone else. For the average punter, it’s a full-on spectator sport. This is way too big, so beginners need to stay well clear, and honestly, even for experts, caution is the word. The water temp is sitting at a very warm 84°, which is pretty much dead average for this time of year. That afternoon, the swell drops to a still-huge 28 ft with the same massive power. Still only for the brave.

Sunday the 12th is a massive comedown. The swell drops to 12 ft, but the wind goes cross-shore and lumpy, making for pretty ordinary conditions. It’s not really worth getting wet for. That trend continues right through most of the next week. From Monday the 13th through to Thursday the 16th, we’re stuck with small, weak, and cross-shore waves. Some glassy moments on Thursday afternoon and Friday morning with tiny 3 ft to 3 ft swell could give you a fun little longboard session, but nothing to write home about. The 17th and 18th are similarly small and weak.

Now, here’s where we get the first decent little window. Sunday the 19th into Monday the 20th of July. A new SE swell fills in, bringing 7 ft waves on Sunday, albeit with a short 8-second period. The wind is clean offshore from the east, which is great. Monday looks the pick of this little run, with a consistent 6 ft of groundswell and a clean, moderate offshore wind. It’s not pumping, but it’s a solid, surfable option.

The real standout, and the best on offer in this forecast, is Tuesday the 21st. The swell direction swings to the SW and the period jumps right up to 12 seconds. We’ve got a very long-period groundswell filling in. The morning shows 3 ft building to a clean 4 ft in the afternoon with a gentle offshore breeze from the ENE. This is the one to circle. A reef break like Junkyards will handle that long-period SW swell beautifully. It won’t be too big, the wind will be glassy-offshore, and it’s an intermediate-friendly size. Just keep in mind it’s a reef, so know your line and watch the tide. It can get a bit crowded here sometimes.

After that little peak, things go quiet again until a big finish. Thursday the 23rd is a write-off, but then Friday the 24th of July serves up another highlight. We’re looking at 8 ft of groundswell from the SSW with a 10-second period. The wind is due to be glassy. This is excellent surf, but that 8 ft threshold means it’s getting into expert-only territory again, especially on a reef. For the skilled crew, it’s going to be absolutely firing. The afternoon drops to a very clean 7 ft, which is still pumping.

The final weekend, the 25th and 26th, sees the swell ease but stay consistent at 5 ft to 6 ft with clean cross-off winds. It’s a solid way to end the run, but nothing will top that Tuesday the 21st or the big Friday the 24th.

So, in short: a massive, dangerous start is followed by a flat spell. Your two best bets are the clean, long-period swell on Tuesday the 21st for a fun, intermediate-friendly session, and the glassy, powerful swell on Friday the 24th for the experts. Get out there.

- Rusty

Read more