Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Righto, surf’s up for the next couple weeks, but it's a tale of two halves. We’ve got a massive pulse of energy heading our way, but it comes with some serious size and a bit of a wild card on the winds. Let’s get into it.

The opening of the period is pretty underwhelming. Tuesday the 7th is a write-off with rubbish 2ft to 4ft cross-on slop from the southeast. The energy is weak, barely pushing 150 in the tank, and the wind is just messing it up. Forget it.

Things get interesting from Wednesday the 8th. Junkyards starts to wake up with a 7ft swell from the southeast, period pushing 17 seconds – that’s proper groundswell energy (2345). The wind is a clean cross-off, making for some nice, lined-up waves. This is for the experienced crew though; that size and power at a reef break isn't for the faint of heart. Thursday the 9th sees it jump – 13ft to 15ft from the southeast with clean offshore winds. The energy is now in the thousands (7700 to 9661). This is heavy, expert-only territory, but the quality is undeniable.

Now, the standout window is Friday the 10th through Saturday the 11th. Swell peaks at a monstrous 25ft from the south-southeast. We’re talking a combined energy reading of 34,999 to 36,323 – that’s a true beast. The wind is a cross-off, so it’s clean, but this is not a day for a paddle. The forecast literally says it's too big for this break. If you are a big-wave charger at an absolute elite level, this is your window, but for 100% of us, it’s a spectacle from the cliff. By Saturday afternoon, it eases to 16ft, still sizeable and powerful.

Sunday the 12th drops to a more manageable 7ft to 7ft from the south, but the wind swings and opens up a cross-chop. Monday the 13th has a 10ft swell with light winds, making for some cleaner afternoon waves, but the period has dropped to 9 seconds, so it’s less grunty.

After that, the energy fades fast. From Tuesday the 15th onwards, we’re looking at small 3ft to 5ft south swells. The wind is often offshore or cross-off, so it’ll be clean, but weak. The combined energy readings drop below 1000, sitting in the 200-800 range. It’s a long period of marginal, small surf with a few clean windows, but nothing exciting. Wednesday the 22nd looks like a total flat, onshore mess.

So, for the best of it: Thursday the 9th is your pick if you are an experienced surfer after big, clean, powerful waves. If you’re looking for a slightly less intense but still high-quality session, Wednesday the 8th morning is the cleaner, more manageable standout with that beautiful cross-off and solid groundswell. After that, it’s a waiting game for the next pulse.

Rusty.

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