Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surfers, Rusty here. Let’s get into it. We’re looking at a strange run ahead. The ocean is going to be active, but it’s a real mixed bag of quality and size. We've got a couple of windows where the conditions all line up, and a whole lot of time where the wind and chop will make things messy.

First up, let's talk about the water. When you get in at Junkyards, the water temp is sitting at 84°F, which is just about normal for this time of year, so you won't need a thick suit. It's not an anomaly, just your standard warm water.

The immediate forecast is pretty flat and uninspiring. The first couple of days are only offering around 2ft of swell, with the combined energy being weak at 129. It's surfable for a log, but honestly, it's pretty ordinary. We'll see some thunderstorms around, but the bigger issue is the wind building from the east-southeast. By Sunday the 16th, we are looking at a 12 mph breeze making things messy and the energy drops. We're going to have a stretch of poor surf and no real recommendations from the 16th through the 20th. It's a real lull, guys. The swell stays small and the winds are just choppy. Just leave the board in the car.

Then things start to heat up. We see a pulse of new swell arriving on Friday the 21st. It jumps up to 6ft, with a period of 10 seconds, and the combined energy jumps into moderate/strong territory at 582. The wind will be blowing offshore from the NE, which is a big positive for getting some clean faces. It’s a bit of a fresh breeze though, so it’s going to be blown-out glass. By Friday afternoon, that NE wind cranks up to 31 mph which is getting close to a gale, and while it’s offshore, it will be hard to paddle out. This is more of a for experts only kind of day.

The swell builds through the weekend, with Saturday the 22nd seeing the biggest surf of the whole run. We're looking at 6ft to 6ft of south-southwest swell, and the energy is really pumping, with values in the 603-856 range. That's strong. However, the wind is going to be howling from the northeast at 28 mph. It's strong offshore and the surf report says it’s "clean but hard to paddle into." This is a raw, powerful day at Junkyards—definitely not for beginners. The swell is over 5ft so it's pushing it for anyone not comfortable in solid surf. This is the standout for size, but you've got to earn it.

On Sunday the 23rd, the swell is still up there at 6ft, but the wind swings around to the ESE and goes cross-off. The quality drops and it becomes a bit of a mess. By the middle of the following week, we are looking at onshore winds and cross-chop, so it’s back to poor conditions. We're now into the second week and the outlook gets less certain.

The swell fades out, and we get back down to that knee-high range for a few days. The 26th and 27th see the combined energy drop back down to around 140, with some light winds and a bit of a cleaner look to it, but the waves are still pretty meagre at 3ft. There's a brief chance for a clean one on Thursday the 27th with a gentle offshore, but it's not going to be anything special.

The final pulse in the forecast window shows up on Sunday the 30th. Again, it’s promising in size but conditions are suspect. We're looking at 5ft of southeast swell and a strong breeze from the east-southeast. It will be clean but with that cross-off wind at 25-28 mph, it’s going to be tough. It’s a promising sign for the end of the run, but it's a week and a half out, so treat that as a “keep an eye on it” scenario.

So, to wrap it up: the real standout for the more experienced surfer is the Saturday the 22nd, with the biggest swell and strong offshore winds, even if it's a battle. For a cleaner, easier session, the windows on the 27th look like the best bet, but you'll have to be happy with smaller waves. Everything in between is just a lot of waiting. The forecast can change, so keep the faith.

Stay stoked,
Rusty

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