Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it.

The next couple of weeks are gonna test your patience, plain and simple. We’re looking at a long, empty stretch of tiny, messy waves before things finally switch on. The first real pulse of energy doesn’t show up until the 20th, and even then it’s a slow build. So, if you’re jonesing for a wave, you’re gonna have to wait it out.

Wednesday the 9th through Tuesday the 17th is essentially a write-off. We’re talking ankle-biters around 1ft with weak energy. There’s some clean conditions early on, but it’s just not enough to get excited about. The wind is mostly cross-off or light, but a 1ft wave with a 7-second period is a waste of a session. Thursday the 10th is flat, and the weekend brings a slight bump to around 3ft on the 12th, but the period is junk and the energy is still weak. It’s all chop and closeouts.

We finally get a bit of a pulse on the 15th and 16th, with some south-west groundswell. Tuesday the 15th is glassy with a 1ft wave at 9 seconds, and the 16th shows 1-2ft at 10-11 seconds with some clean windows. But honestly, we’re still talking about marginal, knee-high stuff. It’s surfable, but you’ll be fighting for every crumb. Then from the 18th to the 19th, it flat-lines again. No swell at all.

Now, here’s where it gets interesting. Sunday the 20th is the day the ocean wakes up. A proper south-east groundswell starts to roll in. The morning shows a clean 3ft at a very long 13 seconds, with light offshore winds. That’s a promising sign. The energy jumps, which is the first real muscle we’ve seen all week. By the afternoon, it’s already up to 6ft at 14 seconds and the energy is pumping. This is where your eyes should light up.

Monday the 21st is the big one. We’re looking at 7-8ft of south-east swell with that long 14-15 second period. Light offshore winds keep it clean. This is excellent, powerful surf for experienced surfers. The energy readings are massive. This is a proper session.

But the real standout, the one to circle on the calendar, is Tuesday the 22nd. This is the peak. The morning already has a solid 11ft at 16 seconds, but the afternoon is where it gets special: a 15ft south-east swell, 16-second period, and clean conditions. The combined energy is off the charts. This is an exceptional, expert-only day at Junkyards. The swell direction is a solid south-east, which is exactly what this reef loves. It’s going to be big, powerful, and perfect. If you’re not an expert, stay far away, because this is serious.

After that, it backs off quickly. Wednesday the 23rd looks like it’s gone, and Thursday the 24th is just a mess of strong, howling offshore wind and a weird, short-period northwest windswell.

So, the plan is simple: wait. Endure the flatness, get through the dribble, and be ready for that incredible window from the 20th to the 22nd. The 22nd afternoon is the crown jewel, but Sunday and Monday will have plenty of gems too. Trust me, it’ll be worth it.

Signing off,
Rusty

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