Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Right then, let’s talk about Junkyards. This reef break is exposed to the swell, and it’s firing from the get-go, but you’ve got to know what you’re doing. The water’s sitting at a warm 83°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year.

We kick things off Wednesday morning, July 8th. There’s a solid 7 ft SE groundswell rolling in with a very long 17-second period. The wind is a glassy offshore from the ENE, keeping those faces clean. The combined energy is pumping at 2317, and it’s calling for experienced surfers only. That afternoon steps it up a notch to 8 ft and 16 seconds, still clean with offshore NE wind, and the energy jumps to 3059. This is proper, quality reef surfing.

Now, Thursday, July 9th, is where it gets serious. We’ve got a 13 ft SE swell with a 16-second period in the morning, and it’s blowing a fresh offshore from the ENE at 19 mph. That energy hits 8280. By the afternoon, it’s 16 ft from the SE, 17-second period, and the energy skyrockets to 13101. This is big, powerful, and only for the brave. It’s a standout for raw power, but if you’re not an expert, stay on the beach. The wind holds offshore all day.

Friday, July 10th, is just stupid. Swell heights hit 33 ft in the morning and 26 ft in the afternoon, with periods of 18 seconds. The energy figures are insane – 108599 and 41611. The wind swings cross-off, but the swell is simply too massive for this break. This is kite-surfing country for those who are keen, but for a paddle surfer, it’s a no-go. That same massive, oversized swell continues straight through Saturday, July 11th, with 26 ft and 20 ft swells and howling cross-off winds. Not for us.

Sunday, July 12th, the swell starts to drop, but it’s still a chunky 12 ft in the morning, dropping to 10 ft in the afternoon. The period shortens to 10-11 seconds, and the wind is a clean cross-off. The energy is down to 3339. Still big, but the quality starts to fade.

From Monday, July 13th, through the middle of the next week, we’re in a lull. Swell drops fast – 6 ft on Monday morning, then down to 3 ft by Tuesday morning. The periods drop to 8-9 seconds, and the wind is mostly cross-off. The energy sinks below 1000. It’s poor, and the scores reflect that. A bit of a flat spell.

But hang in there. Around Thursday, July 16th, there’s a glimmer. A 4 ft to 4 ft S swell comes in with periods of 9-10 seconds, and the wind goes gentle offshore from the ENE. Energy sits around 200-290. It’s clean and surfable.

The real shout for the second week is Friday, July 17th. A 6 ft S swell in the morning with a 10-second period, glassy offshore ENE wind at only 6 mph, and energy of 649. That’s a clean, fun morning. The afternoon drops a bit to 5 ft, but still clean.

After that, we return to small, average conditions with cross-off winds until we get to Wednesday, July 22nd. That morning, a 4 ft S swell arrives with a long 12-second period and a gentle offshore wind. The afternoon improves to 5 ft with an 11-second period and moderate offshore breeze. Energy climbs to over 500. It’s looking like a nice return to form for the reef. Thursday, July 23rd, holds at around 6 ft but the wind goes cross-off, making it a bit lumpy.

So, the standout is undeniably Thursday, July 9th, for the sheer power and clean conditions for experts. For the rest of us, focus on Wednesday, July 8th, for a great session, and then keep your eye on Friday, July 17th, and Wednesday, July 22nd, for the cleanest windows later on.

Rusty.

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