Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s talk about what’s shaping up for the next couple of weeks at Junkyards. Gotta be straight with you—this ain’t a classic stretch. There’s no run of firing days coming through. The pattern looks messy, with plenty of ordinary to poor conditions and a real lack of strong, clean swell.

We start off Monday the 10th with a pulse of moderate wave energy (1251) but the wind is a cross-off from the SE at 12 mph, and the water temp sits at 30°, which is pretty much average for this time of year. The swell is 6 ft from the south with an 11-second period—decent period, so there’s some shape and push there. But the report says it’s marginal, so don’t get your hopes up. Tuesday the 11th morning the swell drops to 5 ft, south, still 10 seconds, and the wind goes light at 6 mph. That cross-off wind keeps things clean-looking, but the energy drops to moderate (548) and the forecast says “very good” surf conditions. Might be the best of a rough bunch, but it’s still a 5 ft south swell on a reef, and those light winds will be a real treat if you’re out there early. But it’s also cross-off, so not glassy perfection, but workable.

Then, mate, it gets grim. From Wednesday the 12th through to at least Sunday the 17th, we’re looking at a long run of ordinary, poor, or just plain surfable-but-ugly conditions. The swell stays small to mid-range (around 3 ft to 4 ft), with short periods mostly around 8-9 seconds, and the wind is often moderate and cross or cross-onshore. Energy drops to weak most days, often under 200. There are a few windows of offshore wind on the 14th and 15th, but the swell’s tiny and weak. Honestly, it’s a dead patch. You’d be better off doing something else for nearly a week and a half.

Things start to look a little less hopeless heading into the second week. Monday the 24th of August morning shows a glimmer: swell from the SSW at 3 ft, 9-second period, gentle offshore wind from the ENE at 9 mph, and the energy climbs back to moderate (231). The report says “good surf conditions” and the wind is offshore—that’s clean, lined-up little waves for the reef. Nothing big, but for a Monday morning when the rest of the month has been a write-off, that’s your standout. The energy dips a bit by afternoon, but if you’ve got the morning free, that’s the pick of the whole outlook.

After that, Tuesday the 25th goes back to poor or marginal, so don’t sleep on that Monday window. Overall, this is a very lean spell. There’s no big groundswell, no epic window. The best chance is Tuesday the 11th morning if you’re desperate, or aim for Monday the 24th morning when the wind goes offshore and the conditions clean right up. Keep an eye on it, but don’t rearrange your life.

Rusty.

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