Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

G’day, Rusty here. Look, I’ll level with ya—Junkyards is a reef setup that’s usually got some promise, but this 16-day run is a proper test of patience. The first week and a half is mostly a write-off. You’ve got tiny swell and messy wind keeping things flat or ordinary. It’s not until the very end of August and into early September that the place finally fires up, but even then, it’s only for the experienced crew.

Let’s start with the near term. Monday the 17th kicks off with a weak 2ft SW swell and 8-second period—barely a pulse. Combined energy is only 90, so it’s weak. Winds are cross-off from the east, meaning it’s rideable but nothing to write home about. The water temp is about average for the time of year. Tuesday and Wednesday are even worse, with swell dropping to 1–2ft and winds turning onshore or fresh, killing any chance of fun waves.

Then Thursday the 20th brings a spike—7ft SE swell on Thursday morning, but it’s cross-shore with a cross-chop, so the quality is average. Combined energy jumps to 785, so there’s some push, but it’s messy. Thursday afternoon sees 8ft SSE swell hitting 1067 energy, but again, cross-shore wind spoils it. Friday through Sunday the 23rd keep that 5–7ft range, but winds stay cross-on or cross-shore, leaving it choppy and poor. Not your day.

Monday the 24th is a little breather—glassy conditions with 3ft SSW swell and 10-second period (169 energy). It’s clean, but small. Tuesday the 25th similar, with 2–2ft and light cross-off wind. Still not worth paddling out for.

Then we hit a big gap. Wednesday the 26th through Saturday the 29th are tiny—0.6–2ft—with fresh winds and lumpy conditions. Dead period.

Now—the standout. Sunday the 30th of August. Junkyards lights up with a 23ft SW groundswell at 12 seconds, and combined energy is a massive 14541. That’s serious power. Winds are light cross-off in the morning and glassy by afternoon. But—and this is a big but—this is a reef break, and 23ft is way too big for most. Only experts should even think about it. The long period (12 seconds) means the swell will bend around the reef and wrap in, but at this size it’ll be a beast. Monday the 31st backs off to 15ft (6220 energy), still cross-off and clean, but again, only for the brave. Tuesday 1st September drops to 8ft (2266 energy) with clean cross-off wind—still solid, still for experienced surfers.

Bottom line: If you’re an expert, mark Sunday 30th August at Junkyards. Clean, massive, and glassy. For the rest of us, this is a waiting game. It tends to change quickly around here, but on paper, this is a long blank stretch with one big payday.

Rusty.

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