Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright crew, Rusty here. Let’s get into it.

The next couple of days have some action, but it’s not all smooth sailing. We’ve got a solid swell running from the south, pushing in some decent energy, but the wind is going to be the main character in this story. The real standout sits right at the start, so don’t sleep on it.

Monday, August 10th kicks off with a solid 6ft south swell, packing a punch with a combined energy of 1443. That’s a lot of power in the water, but there's a catch—the wind is a cross-off from the southeast at 16 mph, and there's a risk of thunderstorms. It’s clean enough for those who can handle a bit of chop and a stormy sky. The swell drops a touch to 5ft in the afternoon but the energy is still strong at 1070. It’s a day for the keen ones.

Tuesday, August 11th is where it’s at. The morning shows 5ft of south swell with a period of 10 seconds, and the wind eases right back to a gentle cross-off from the southeast at just 9 mph. Combined energy sits at 648, so there’s plenty of push. This is the pick of the forecast—clean, powerful, and much more manageable conditions. The afternoon stays sweet with the wind dropping further to a light breeze. If you’re getting out, this is your window.

After Tuesday, things get a bit scrappy. Wednesday, August 12th sees the swell drop to 5ft and the wind swings around, killing the quality. By afternoon it’s onshore and the waves are pretty ordinary.

From Thursday 13th through to Sunday 17th, the swell slowly fades and the winds keep switching. There are a few windows with clean conditions, like Thursday morning with a light cross-off from the north-northeast and a 3ft south swell, or Saturday afternoon with glassy conditions and a 4ft south-southwest swell. But the energy is weak—combined energy readings are mostly between 155 and 177. You can get a wave, but it’s not going to blow your mind.

Monday, August 18th through Thursday, August 20th is a write-off. Strong onshore winds from the east-southeast and tiny swell mean it’s best to leave the board in the car. Combined energy drops as low as 51. Not worth the paddle.

Then we get a pulse on Friday, August 21st. The swell jumps back up to 7ft from the southeast, but the period is short at 8 seconds. Combined energy reads 484, so there’s some grunt, but the wind is still a cross-off at 12-16 mph. It’s a messy one—powerful but raw. Not for the faint-hearted.

The final days from Saturday 22nd through Tuesday 25th drop right off again, with poor conditions and tiny swell. The wind stays strong and the energy is low. Not much to get excited about.

So, if you’re picking a time to get wet, Tuesday morning, August 11th is your best bet. Clean, solid south swell, and light wind. That’s the one.

Rusty out.

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