Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s break it down for the next couple of weeks.

Starting now, it’s a total snoozefest. From the 14th through the 25th, Junkyards is basically flat. You’ve got a few little ripple pulses here and there – maybe ankle to shin high at best – with weak, short-period energy. The wind is mostly light and clean, which would be great if there was anything to surf, but there isn’t. We’re looking at a solid two-week drought before anything real shows up.

Then things get interesting at the very end of the month. On the 26th, a big 3.5m (12ft) southeast swell at 11 seconds shows up, with a combined energy of 2718 – that’s serious, powerful stuff. The wind is a moderate cross-offshore breeze, so there might be a little chop on it. This is real deal, hold on to your board territory.

The 27th keeps that energy going with another 3.5m (12ft) southeast swell, also 11 seconds, energy at 2686 in the morning. It eases a bit in the afternoon to 2.5m (8ft) from the south, still 11 seconds, energy at 1606. Wind picks up to a fresh cross-off, which will keep it from being glassy, but it’s big. Over 2.5m (8ft) is only for experienced surfers.

Now, Junkyards is exposed to southwest swell, and this is coming in from the SE to S. It’s not the ideal direction, and with an 11-second period, it might stand up and close out at a beach break. It’s got a lot of power, but it may not be pretty.

The 28th brings a 2.3m (8ft) southeast swell at 8 seconds in the morning, energy at 843. That’s still sizable, but the period has dropped, making it shorter and more jumbled. By the afternoon, it’s down to 1.8m (6ft) at 7 seconds, energy at 456. It’s fading fast and getting messier.

The 29th drops further to around 1.1m (4ft) to 1.0m (3ft) from the southwest,with periods around 10 seconds. The energy drops way down to under 260. It’s a small, fading leftover at that point.

So, to sum it up: a very long, flat stretch, then a late-month pulse of serious size. But the direction isn’t ideal, the period drops off quickly after the first two days, and the wind is a persistent cross-off. The 27th looks like the biggest, most powerful day, but it’s also the most demanding. The 28th morning might offer some size, but it’s going to be less clean. After that, it’s gone.

Not a classic stretch by any means. You want the big stuff, it’s there, but it’s raw and tricky. Don’t go out there expecting a smooth, easy ride.

Rusty

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