Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for Junkyards over the next couple of weeks.

Straight up, it’s a pretty flat and quiet period for this spot. We’ve got a long stretch of poor conditions ahead, so don’t expect much for the first week or so. The action doesn’t really kick off until Saturday the 12th of September, and even then, it’s nothing to write home about.

The first few days are a write-off. Thursday the 5th sees a stormy, cross-on shore, with a messy 5ft NW swell but the wind is all wrong, and the combined energy is a moderate 720. It’s just not worth paddling out. That sets the tone for the next several days: tiny, weak swells, mostly under 3ft, with average winds. There’s a brief moment on Sunday the 6th morning when the wind goes offshore ENE at 15 mph, and the swell is a clean 3ft from the SSW, but the energy is weak (142) and the waves are just ordinary. It’s surfable, but you’d be scraping for scraps.

The best of the lot – and I mean the only real standout – comes on Saturday the 12th of September. The morning session sees a 7ft swell from the SSE, with a period of 10 seconds, producing moderate to strong combined energy of 892. The wind is gentle and cross-shore, so it’ll be a bit bumpy, but not terrible. The afternoon holds similar 7ft SSE swell (817 energy). This is a solid, powerful groundswell. A word of caution: at 7ft, this is expert territory, especially at a reef break like Junkyards. The period is 10 seconds, so it’s a decent long-period swell, which will mean better shaped waves but longer waits between sets. That’s a trade-off you’ll have to live with. The break is fairly consistent, and crowds are sometimes an issue, so you might have some company. The optimum swell direction for Junkyards is SW, and this is coming from SSE, so it’s slightly off-angle, but it’s the only real pulse in the window.

After that, the energy drops off fast. Sunday the 13th has a much smaller 3ft S swell with offshore wind, but it’s weak (150 energy) and only ordinary. The rest of the second week is tiny, with swells under 2ft and very low energy. By the 20th of September, it’s glassy but flat.

So, to sum it up: if you’re an experienced surfer, keep your eyes on Saturday the 12th of September. It’s the only day with real size and power, but it’s not perfect. The rest of the period is a dud. Don’t hold your breath.

Rusty.

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