Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s break down what Junkyards has in store for us over the next couple of weeks.

The short story is this: a whole lot of waiting. We've got a long stretch of ankle-to-waist high slop, then a pulse of energy that gets messy, and finally, a beacon of light at the very end of the forecast. It's a long way out, so call it hopeful rather than a sure thing.

For the next few days, we're looking at tiny, weak surf with wave heights around 1-2 feet. The swell energy is weak, values in the 40s and 50s (52-64). Water temp is around 84°, which is about normal for this time of year. Wind is cross-off or offshore, so surfaces will be clean, but there's just no push. It's a longboard and chat-to-your-mates-in-the-lineup kind of surf, not one for performance.

Then, the swell shows up on the 20th, jumping to about 8 feet. But the energy is strong (1035) and the wind is a fresh cross-shore with lumpy cross-chop. On top of that, there's a thunderstorm risk. It's a messy, powerful mess, not for the faint of heart, and likely to be a battle. This size is also well past what a beginner wants to deal with. The swell eases a bit on the 21st and 22nd, but we're still dealing with moderate to fresh cross-shore winds and chop. For a paddle surfer, this looks like a skip, but for someone on a kite, this could be a whole different story.

By the 23rd and 24th, we're back down to 2-3 feet, and the wind goes light, with some glassy periods, especially on the 23rd afternoon and 24th morning. But the energy is weak, dropping into the 70s (74, 76), so it's small and soft. Might be okay for a gentle cruise.

The following week is pretty flat, with energy levels dropping to almost nothing (7-20). There’s not much to say except that the ocean is having a rest.

Now for the good part. Around the 29th, we see a new pulse. A 6-foot groundswell from the WNW, but with a short period (6 seconds). The wind is light and offshore, so it'll be clean. The 30th is similar, with clean conditions. But the 31st is the standout. We're looking at a solid 4-foot SSW swell, and the energy is building back into the 200s (206). The wind is offshore from the ENE, which should hold the waves open and clean. This looks like the best bet of the whole period, with some proper, rippable waves on the cards. Just remember, it’s a long-range call, so check back closer to the time.

Keep it salty.

Rusty

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