Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, folks, it’s been a quiet stretch here at Junkyards (reef). For the first week and a half of this outlook, we’re looking at a whole lot of nothing. There’s a long gap of poor surf and tiny windswell, so if you’re desperate for a paddle, you’re better off waiting. The water temp is sitting around 84°, which is about normal for this time of year, so at least it’s warm.

Things finally wake up around Saturday the 26th of September. That morning we see a small pulse of 2 ft swell coming from the SE with a period of 10 seconds, but the wind is light onshore from the W, making it choppy. The combined energy is still weak at 50, so not much to get excited about. By the afternoon, the swell picks up a bit to 2 ft, and the period jumps to a very long 16 seconds – classic groundswell potential. The energy climbs to moderate (220), but the wind shifts cross-onshore from the WNW, so it’s going to be a bit bumpy. Still, that long period means the shape could be there for a reef set-up like this, so if you’re an experienced surfer, it might be worth a look for a few clean ones between the chop.

Now, the real news – and I mean the standout of the entire 16-day window – hits on Monday the 28th of September. We’re talking a serious shot of swell. That morning, the Junkyards are forecast to see a solid 13 ft swell from the SE, with a very long period of 16 seconds. The combined energy is powerful (7411), and the wind is light offshore from the N, making a clean, cross-off breeze. This is big, powerful stuff. At 13 ft, this is strictly for experts. Beginners, stay on the beach. The wave quality could be exceptional, but the sheer size and power will demand respect. The afternoon pushes it even bigger to 15 ft, still with clean cross-off winds, though the energy is slightly higher (8630). This is the day to watch.

Tuesday the 29th of September keeps the run going, with a massive 16 ft swell from the SE, period at 15 seconds, and a combined energy of 12345 – that’s strong. The wind stays offshore from the NNE, but there is a risk of thunderstorms. Again, this is only for the most experienced chargers. By that afternoon, the swell drops back to zero, so the window is tight.

Wednesday the 30th is one for the history books if it verifies – but it’s a long way off. The morning shows a monster 21 ft swell from the SE, period of 14 seconds, and the combined energy is massive at 15726. The wind is cross-off from the NE, but the data suggests the swell might simply be too big for this break, even for experts. It’s a long-range forecast, so take it with a grain of salt, but the potential is there.

So, here’s the takeaway: The first week-plus is dead. The standout window is Monday the 28th through Tuesday the 29th, with big, powerful, clean groundswell for experts only. The 30th could be even bigger, but that’s a wait-and-see.

Stay safe out there.

- Rusty

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