Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the menu for Junkyards.

First up, the water temp is sitting at 87°, which is a touch warmer than normal for this time of year. That’s a little bonus for the skin.

Now, the truth is, for the next few days we’re in a holding pattern. Wednesday and Thursday are a total write-off – tiny swell, messy winds, and nothing worth paddling out for. The energy is weak (combined energy around 18 to 43), and the conditions are just poor. Friday is even worse with storm force winds, so don’t even think about it.

Then things get wild. Saturday, August 8th, we’ve got a monster groundswell from the south rolling in. We’re looking at 33ft to 36ft of swell with a period of 14 to 16 seconds. That’s a very long period groundswell. The combined energy is massive (42391 to 60631). But here’s the catch – this is way too big for Junkyards. It’s a reef break, and that size is only for the absolute top-tier experts. The wind is cross-offshore, so the waves would be clean, but the sheer power and size makes it dangerous. For anyone but the most experienced chargers, this is a hard pass. The wind and tide are favorable, but the swell is predicted to be too big for this break.

Sunday and Monday follow the same pattern: huge, dangerous swell (33ft to 25ft) with storm force and severe gale cross-onshore winds. It’s a blown-out, dangerous mess. The combined energy is still in the thousands (22411 to 47126). This is more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddle-surfing one.

Tuesday, August 11th, the swell starts to drop, but it’s still 10ft to 12ft from the SSW with a period of 11 seconds. The wind is cross-onshore, making it lumpy and choppy. The energy is still high (3238 to 4491), but the quality is poor. Just a marginal, messy day.

Wednesday, August 12th, is the first real chance for a normal surf. The swell has dropped to 8ft from the SSW with a 10-second period. The combined energy is moderate (1243). The morning has light offshore wind (WSW at 6 mph), which is a major positive. It’ll be clean, but the conditions are still marginal due to the tide. It’s a maybe, but not a standout.

From Thursday, August 13th, onwards, the swell fades rapidly. The rest of the week and into the second week is a slow, sad decline. We’re looking at 5ft down to 2ft, with periods of 8 to 10 seconds, and weak energy (100 to 572). The wind is mostly cross or cross-on, and the surf is “surfable but very ordinary.” The only bright spot is from Monday, August 17th, into Thursday, August 20th, where we get light offshore to cross-off winds (ENE to NE at 6 to 9 mph). The waves are tiny, just 2ft to 2ft, but with the clean conditions, it’s good for a longboard or a funboard. The combined energy is weak (35 to 125), so don’t expect much push.

The Verdict: There’s no standout session here. The only real highlight is the massive swell on August 8th, but it’s too big and dangerous for Junkyards. The best you can hope for is a small, clean session on Wednesday, August 12th, or the tiny but clean days from August 17th to 20th. It’s a lean period, but the forecasts can change.

Rusty.

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