Junkyards Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what the next couple of weeks are shaping up like for the local reef.

Right off the bat, it’s a bit of a slow start. There’s some surfable swell around, but nothing that’s gonna have you calling in sick. The first real standout comes later on, so we’ve got a bit of a wait for the good stuff.

Starting things off on Wednesday the 12th, Junkyards sees a 4-foot SSW swell with an 8-second period. The water’s sitting at a warm 84°, which is about average for this time of year. With an easterly breeze keeping it clean, the wave energy is moderate at 217. It’s a start, but not the highlight of the forecast.

Thursday the 13th drops off a little. Morning brings a small 3-foot south swell, still clean, and the afternoon glassing off with a lighter 3-foot SW swell. Both are a bit ordinary for my liking. Friday and Saturday the 14th and 15th are pretty flat with small 2-foot waves and not much energy – you’re looking at energy readings in the low 100s to below 100. Conditions are a bit bumpy or just plain average. Sunday the 16th shows a small bump back to 3 feet, but that’s about it for that week. We really don’t see anything worth getting excited about until the following week.

Now, here’s where things get interesting. Keep your eyes on Friday the 21st of August. A bigger 6-foot swell from the SSE rolls in during the morning, with a solid 8-second period. The combined wave energy jumps right up to 492, which is strong. However, the wind is a light cross-onshore, so while it’s big and powerful, it won’t be as clean as we’d like. This one’s more for the experienced crew – that size over 5 feet is a bit much for beginners.

The true standout, the one I’d be circling on the calendar, is Saturday the 22nd of August. Junkyards gets a clean 5-foot SSE swell. The wind switches to a light offshore from the ENE, making for some clean, lined-up waves. The energy is still very strong at 298. This is your best bet for a proper session, but remember, at over 5 feet, it’s best suited for intermediate to expert surfers.

Sunday the 23rd drops back down to 3 feet, but the wind kicks up, so it gets messy. After that, the forecast turns nasty. Monday the 24th brings wild, gale-force winds from the west and SSW, with huge speeds over 68 mph. The surf is tiny, but the ocean will be a washing machine – definitely a day to stay on land and watch. The rest of that week stays blown out with messy, cross-onshore winds and small, poor-quality surf.

But don't give up hope. Looking way ahead now, on Thursday the 27th of August, the pattern flips. We get a beautiful, glassy morning with a 3-foot SSW swell and a longer 11-second period. The wave energy is moderate at 246. The wind goes dead calm, glassy. This looks like a winner for a clean, smooth session on the reef. The afternoon of the 27th holds similar promise with a 4-foot SW swell and glassy conditions. That’s the one to keep an eye on.

So, to sum it up: the next week is pretty slim pickings. The window for the best surf is Saturday the 22nd for a punchy, offshore swell for the experienced, and then that glassy Thursday the 27th for everyone who wants clean lines.

Stay stoked, and don't forget the wax.

Rusty

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