Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s on the menu for the next couple of weeks.

Well, I’ll be honest with you – it’s a pretty grim stretch ahead. For the entire 16-day forecast window, there’s not a single standout session that I’d get excited about. The only break on the cards is Irmas/Leftpoint, a reef setup that’s fairly consistent but exposed to the open ocean. The conditions are just not cooperating.

The water temperature is sitting at 80°F which is bang on average for this time of year, so at least the water will feel nice on those long, frustrating paddles.

Starting from Saturday, August 22nd, right through the rest of the month, we’ve got a relentless ENE wind blowing at 19-25 mph. It’s a stiff cross-shore (or cross-on) that’s churning the ocean into a messy, lumpy cross-chop. The swell is coming in from the ENE at around 6 ft to 7 ft, but with a short, weak period of just 7 seconds, it’s pretty junky. The combined wave energy is moderate though, hitting the 395–662 mark. Still, the wind is ruining any chance of a clean face. The forecast calls it “poor surf conditions” and I’m not going to argue.

We get a bit of a change late in the month. Around August 26th through the 28th, the swell switches to the south with a much longer period – 14 to 18 seconds. That’s proper groundswell energy, and the combined energy jumps up to 1020 on the 27th morning. But here’s the kicker: the wind is still a fresh cross-shore from the ENE at 19-22 mph. That long-period swell will be breaking a bit too straight on this reef, and with the wind on it, it’s going to be a bumpy, frustrating mess. It’s not worth the drive.

The first week of September is more of the same. The wind eases a little on Wednesday, September 2nd, dropping to a gentle 9 mph cross-shore from the NE. The swell is still ENE at 6 ft, period 8 seconds, and the energy is strong at 862. The forecast only gives it a “marginal” 2 out of 10. It’s the best of a bad bunch, but I wouldn’t call it a standout. The face will be lumpy with a slight cross-chop. It’s just not clean.

After that, from September 3rd onward, the wind picks right back up to 22-25 mph, and we’re back to poor conditions. On September 4th, the energy hits 1029, but with a strong cross-shore and messy chop, it’s more of a kite-surfing setup than a paddle session.

Honestly, if you’ve got a kite, some of these days with strong cross-shore winds and moderate swell might look interesting. But for a surfer? There’s not a single day I’d call a winner. The only real glimmer is the morning of September 2nd, but even then, it’s a gamble. The wait for a clean, glassy day is going to be a long one.

Keep your board waxed and your eyes on the forecast. It can’t stay this bad forever.

Rusty.

Read more