Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, surfers, Rusty here. Let’s cut to the chase.

The straight truth is, the next couple of weeks look pretty poor for a proper paddle. The wind is just not on our side at all. We've got a long stretch of onshore and cross-shore breezes that are going to chop up whatever swell is out there. It’s a classic case of plenty of ocean energy, but none of it any good for us.

Looking at the first proper swell, things start to build on the 8th. The wave height jumps up to 5ft in the morning, but it’s coming from the ENE with a short, weak 6-second period. The wind is a fresh 35 km/h cross-shore, so it’s going to be lumpy and pretty much a write-off. This pattern of messy, cross-shore wind and junky short-period swell hangs around for days. By the 9th and 10th, we’ve got moderate wave energy (562-663), but that ENE swell is still short-period and the wind is still ruining any chance of a clean face.

The middle of the week, around the 12th and 13th, we finally see a change in the swell direction, with a proper S and SSW groundswell showing up. The swell period jumps up to a nice 16-18 seconds, which is a great sign for some real power. This is exactly the sort of long-period swell that a reef like Irmas/Leftpoint (Encyclopedia) would normally eat alive. On the 12th, we’re looking at 3ft of long-period S swell with a strong 888 energy reading. But here’s the kicker: the wind is still a strong, cross-shore 35-40 km/h from the ENE. It's a cruel tease. It's like a beautiful wave machine switched on, but the wind is pointing straight at it, making it a washing machine. Despite the promising groundswell, the score remains zero because of the wind.

The swell is still there on the 13th, with 4ft from the S at 16 seconds, but the wind just gets a bit stronger, up to 40 km/h. This is a day to watch from the beach, not one to surf. As we head into the 14th, the swell swings back around to the ENE and drops to a 7-second period. The size is up there, 7ft, but with that short period and a strong 40 km/h cross-breeze, it’s just going to be a big, lumpy, closed-out mess. Honestly, at this size and with that wind, the setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

By the 15th and 16th, the swell tops out at 8ft with strong energy readings (908-1012), but again, it’s that short-period ENE windswell, and the wind hasn’t let up. It’s a lot of water moving, but it’s not clean surfable waves. It's powerful and heavy. That’s pushing well past beginner territory and even for experts, the poor quality means it won't be enjoyable.

The final stretch into the 20th and 21st doesn't offer much hope. We see another pulse of long-period SSW groundswell on the 20th, with a 21-second period, but only 2ft of swell and still 35 km/h cross-shore winds. It’s the same story, just with less size.

So, to be straight with you, there are no good surf options in this entire 16-day window. Not a single standout day. This is a rough stretch where the wind direction is just against us the whole way through. I know it’s a downer, but it won't stay like this forever. Forecasts can change, and sometimes these blank runs don't last as long as they look. But for now, I’d leave the board in the car and maybe find something else to do until this wind sorts itself out.

Rusty, signing off.

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