Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let’s take a look at what’s cookin’ for the next couple of weeks at Irmas/Leftpoint. It’s a reef break, fairly consistent, and it likes an ESE swell. We’re in for a rocky start, but there might be a little window of clean waves if you’re patient.

Right off the bat, the surf is flat out ugly. Thursday the 3rd and Friday the 4th are a write-off: strong cross-shore wind from the ENE at 25 mph, whipping up a messy cross-chop. Swell is there, around 8 ft to 8 ft, but it’s short-period junk at 7 seconds, and the combined energy is moderate to strong (1070-1687), but it’s all for nothing with that wind. Don’t even bother.

Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th? Still a struggle. The wind drops a tad to 22 mph then 19 mph, but it’s still cross-shore and lumpy. The swell sizes hang around 8 ft to 8 ft, and the period stretches to 14 seconds on Saturday, which is proper groundswell. That long period (over 15 seconds is very long, so 14 seconds is significant) will make for better-shaped waves at this reef, but the lumpy cross-chop spoils it. The energy is strong (2654-3467), but the surf is just marginal at best. It’s a “maybe” for the die-hards, but not a standout.

Monday the 7th gets ugly again. We’ve got a risk of thunderstorms, cross-onshore wind, and a big jump in swell. The morning sees 10 ft from the SSW with a 14-second period, and the afternoon pumps up to 13 ft from the SSW with a 15-second period. That’s a massive groundswell, with combined energy roaring into the five-digit range (5650-10581). But with that fresh cross-onshore breeze, it’s just blown-out, lumpy chaos. This is expert-only, and even then, it’s not fun. For a reef break, the long-period SSW swell is a good direction match, but the wind kills it.

Tuesday the 8th starts to settle. The swell drops to 7 ft in the morning, still messy, but by the afternoon the wind swings to SSW at 12 mph, and it’s a cross-shore. The swell drops to 3 ft, but the period is 15 seconds – very long period groundswell. The energy is moderate (961). It’s marginal, but at least it’s not a total loss.

Now, here’s the standout. Wednesday morning, September 9th. This is the one to circle. The wind goes glassy – literally, “glass” – from the NE at 3 mph. The swell is 4 ft from the ENE with an 8-second period, which is short, but the combined energy is weak (261). But that glassy conditions? That’s surfing perfection on a small day. The reef will smooth it out, and you’ll have clean, peelable waves. It’s not big, but it’s the best quality on offer. Crowds are possible at this spot, especially on a day like this. After that, the afternoon gets a risk of thunderstorms and a cross-onshore wind, so make the most of the morning.

The rest of the outlook is a mixed bag. Thursday the 10th through Sunday the 13th sees moderate to fresh cross-shore winds, with swell sizes ranging from 4 ft to 8 ft. The period is long (12-14 seconds) on the 10th and 11th, so there’s energy (up to 1423), but the wind keeps it lumpy. Monday the 14th and Tuesday the 15th see a big spike in swell again – 12 ft to 16 ft from the ENE with 10-11 second periods. That’s heavy, with combined energy hitting 5938 and 6065. But the wind is cross-shore or cross-onshore, and at 16 ft, that’s massive, dangerous, and blown out. For experts only, and even then, it’s not quality. The long period (11 seconds) is good, but the size and wind make it a beast.

Wednesday the 16th to Friday the 18th is more of the same: strong cross-shore winds, ENE swell from 8 ft to 10 ft, short to moderate periods (8-9 seconds), and energy dropping from 2512 to 810. It’s poor to marginal at best.

So, for the whole 16-day window, the one true standout is Wednesday morning, September 9th. Glassy conditions and a clean 4 ft swell. It’s not a monster, but it’s the only time the stars align for a really good session. Everything else is blown out, lumpy, or too big and messy. If you’re a patient soul, or you’ve got a kiteboard, the bigger days mid-month might be more your speed for a tow, but for paddle surfing, that Wednesday morning glass-off is your best bet.

Be safe out there and keep your eyes on the horizon.

Rusty.

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