Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright mate, Rusty here. Let’s have a look at what’s on the cards for the next couple of weeks.

Honestly, it’s a tough stretch ahead. The first week is pretty much a write-off for any decent paddle surfing. We’ve got a lot of swell, but the wind is just relentless from the east-northeast, blowing cross and cross-onshore, and it’s dishing up lumpy, messy conditions. The water temp is sitting at 81°, which is spot on for this time of year, so at least it’ll be warm while you’re getting chopped up.

The only spot on the radar is Irmas/Leftpoint. It’s a reef break, fairly consistent, and likes an ESE swell. The problem is, for the first several days, the wind is a strong, fresh breeze, and the combined swell energy is moderate to strong—like 866 to 1795—but it’s all short-period, 7 to 8 seconds, which won’t help the shape when it’s already messy.

We don’t get a sniff of anything worth paddling out for until maybe Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th. The swell drops a touch, around 8 ft to 8 ft, but the period finally stretches out to 12 to 13 seconds. That’s a groundswell, so you’ll get better-shaped waves, more energy, and longer gaps between sets. The combined energy is still strong (1750 to 2507), but the wind is still a fresh cross-shore, so it’s not going to be glassy. It’s still marginal, but it’s the best we’ve got in that first week. Saturday (5th) might be your best bet here, with the longest period and the slightly lower wind speed of 19 mph.

The big standout, though, is looking at Saturday the 12th of September. That’s the one to circle on the calendar. The swell is cranking—15 ft from the ENE, with a 10-second period. The combined energy is massive at 4548, meaning very strong wave energy. A word of caution: 15 ft is big, big territory. This is expert-only stuff. The wind is a moderate cross-shore, which is still messy, but with that much juice, the reef might just hold it together. This is a long-range call, so there’s some uncertainty, but if it lines up, Irmas/Leftpoint could be absolutely pumping. Crowds are possible here, so expect some company.

After that, the swell backs right off. By the 15th and 16th, we’re looking at tiny, weak waves (1 ft to 2 ft) with weak energy (19 to 123), and the wind is still a problem. That’s a proper doldrum period.

So, to sum it up: the first week is a grind. The one bright spot in the near term is Saturday the 5th for a middling session. The real promise, if you’re a charger, is Saturday the 12th for some serious, heavy waves. The rest of the forecast is a write-off.

Rusty.

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