Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, let’s get into it. The long-range picture for Irmas/Leftpoint is a bit of a grind, if I’m being honest. We’ve got a lot of days ahead where the wind is just gonna be messing things up. For the first week, the trade winds are cranking from the ENE and NE, blowing cross-shore and keeping the ocean lumpy and chopped up. The swell is there, but it’s short-period windswell, mostly in the 5 to 7 feet range, and it’s just not going to have any shape to it. The energy is moderate, in the 400 to 600 range, but it’s all for nothing with that wind. This stretch from Sunday the 9th through Friday the 14th is looking like a write-off for a proper surf. You’d be fighting bumpy, messy waves and paddling into a cross-breeze all session. Not worth the hassle.

Now, there is a bit of a pulse that tries to show up around the 15th and 16th. The swell size jumps up, with the 15th seeing 8 to 10 feet, and the energy really starts to build, hitting 1849 and then a big 2611 on the Saturday afternoon. That’s moderate to strong energy, but the wind is still howling cross-shore, so it’s going to be a mess. Sunday the 16th, we finally get a bit of relief, with the wind swinging to the NNE and going cross-offshore. The swell is a solid 12 feet, but the period is only 12-13 seconds, and the energy is strong at 5720. The wave comment calls it marginal, and the score is a 4 out of 10. That’s our best bet in the first week, but it’s still a heavy, powerful wave with a cross-off wind. It’s going to be big and powerful, and it’s not for the faint of heart. I’d say that Sunday the 16th is the standout, but it’s a qualified one. For a spot that’s exposed to the ESE, this ENE swell is okay, but it’s not the ideal direction.

After that, things get weird and small. The 17th drops off, and the 18th sees the swell collapse to 2 feet with a long-period S swell, but the scores are still poor. The rest of that week is just marginal, with small waves and cross-shore winds again. The energy is weak, and it’s just not going to be worth paddling out.

Looking further ahead, around the 22nd and 23rd, there’s another pulse of ENE windswell, pushing 8 to 10 feet, but the period is short and the wind is back to cross-shore. It’s a lot of water moving, but it’s going to be junky.

So, what’s the call? The only real window of opportunity is the morning of Sunday, August 16th. You’ve got a big 12 feet swell, clean conditions with that cross-offshore wind, and strong energy. But it’s going to be a handful. The water temp is 80°, which is about normal for this time of year, so no surprises there. The break is a reef, fairly consistent, and it can get crowded. If you’re an expert, that’s your window. For everyone else, it’s a long stretch of waiting. The first week is a total loss, and the second week is looking like a lottery. Keep an eye on the forecasts, because things can change, but right now, I’m not overly excited.

Rusty

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