Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Hey, Rusty here. Let’s call it like it is – this is a tough run of surf for our area. The wind is a relentless bugger, and even when there’s size, it’s just getting blown to bits. You’re looking at a solid 10-day gap with nothing worth waxing up for. There’s a tiny flicker of hope at the very end, but it’s a long way off.

We’re talking about Irmas/Leftpoint. It’s a reef, usually breaks fairly consistently, and loves an ESE swell, but that’s where the good news ends. Water temp is about normal for this time of year.

Friday the 4th starts with a 8ft ENE swell at a short 7 seconds, but a strong 25 mph cross-wind from the ENE has it all messy. Afternoon drops to 5ft but the period jumps to 14 seconds – a nice groundswell – but the wind is still cross at 22 mph. Saturday the 5th, the swell pushes to 8ft in the morning, 13-second period, with a 19 mph cross-wind. The afternoon is a touch better with 8ft, 14-second swell, but the wind is 22 mph and cross. The energy is strong (3456), but it’s a waste. Sunday the 6th, 7ft, 12-second swell, but the wind goes cross-onshore and it’s lumpy. Storm risk is there.

Monday the 7th, the swell is 8ft, 12 seconds, but it’s cross-onshore with thunderstorms. Tuesday the 8th drops to 6ft then 5ft, wind backs off a bit but it’s still cross-onshore and choppy. Wednesday the 9th, the swell drops to 3ft, wind still up. Energy is weak. Thursday the 10th, a quick spike to 5ft in the morning with a short 7-second period, but the wind is fresh and cross. No good.

This pattern of solid swell and bad wind just keeps going. The 8ft stuff on the 7th and 15th is too big for beginners, and with that wind, it’s only for the hardcore. That 14-second period swell on the 5th afternoon would be magic at a point, but here with the cross-wind, it’s a blown-out flop.

The only real standout is right at the end. On Thursday the 17th, the swell drops to 3ft, but the direction swings to SSW with a very long 16-second period. That’s a proper groundswell. The wind is still cross at 22 mph, but the energy is low. Friday the 18th is similar, 3ft to 3ft with the same long period. Saturday the 19th, the swell goes back to a short 8-second ENE. This long-period SSW window is our best bet, but it’s tiny and the wind is a problem. It’s a long-range hope, so keep your expectations low.

For the next ten days, honestly, leave the board in the garage. The wind is too strong and too cross for this spot. If you’re really keen, maybe the 8th or 9th have the smallest window, but it’s marginal. This setup is more interesting for a kite surfer than a paddle surfer with that strong cross-shore wind. The long period SSW groundswell at the end is promising, but it’s a one-star show. Keep an eye on it, but don’t plan your life around it.

Rusty.

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