Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright, Rusty here. Let’s talk about the next 16 days.

Alright, mate, I’m looking at the crystal ball for Irmas/Leftpoint and it’s a bit of a rough stretch ahead. The water temp is sitting around 81°, which is pretty much bang on average for this time of year, so no surprises there.

The outlook kicks off on Friday, 28 August, but it’s not a pretty picture. We’ve got a small S swell pushing in around 3 ft to 3 ft, with a long period of 14 seconds, but the wind is smashing it from the ENE at 22 mph. That’s a fresh cross-shore breeze, and the wave comment flat out calls it poor surf conditions. The combined energy is moderate (527), but it’s lumpy, messy, and not worth paddling out for. Honestly, the first several days are a write-off. Saturday the 29th through to the end of the month, the swell bumps up to 5 ft to 8 ft, but it’s shifting to a short-period, wind-driven ENE swell (6-8 seconds), and the wind stays cross-shore and strong. The energy climbs into the moderate to strong range (484 to 829), but it’s all lumpy cross-chop. On Monday the 31st, the morning swell hits 8 ft, and that’s already getting too big for beginners, but the wind is still ruining it.

As we roll into September, the first week is just more of the same. Tuesday the 1st sees the strongest wave energy so far at 1130, with a 8 ft ENE swell, but it’s still cross-shore and messy. The wind doesn’t let up. Wednesday the 2nd has a brief moment where a 3 ft S swell with a very long 16-second period shows up, giving a marginal rating, but the wind is still a fresh cross-shore. That long period would be beautiful at a reef or point, but the wind kills it. By Thursday the 3rd, it’s back to the usual ENE windswell.

The real standouts – if you can call them that – are few and far between. The best chance for something decent appears to be the last few days of the second week. On Friday, 4 September, we see a 7 ft to 8 ft swell from the ENE with a period of 11-12 seconds, which is a proper groundswell. The energy is very strong (1442-1536), but the wind is still cross-shore and fresh. It’s marginal, but it’s the best on offer. However, that swell size is pushing into expert territory. On Saturday the 5th and Sunday the 6th, the swell stays around 8 ft, but the period drops back to 9-10 seconds, and the wind gets even stronger. The energy is still strong (1132-1335), but it’s messy.

Then things get big. From Monday the 7th to Wednesday the 9th, the swell jumps to 10 ft to 13 ft, with very strong energy (1733 to 2867). The wind is a strong cross-shore, and the wave comment is still poor. This is expert-only, big, messy, and dangerous. Thursday the 10th is a write-off with a severe gale and risk of thunderstorms. The wind is onshore and totally blown out.

Finally, the last few days settle down. Friday the 11th has a 5 ft to 4 ft NE swell, with a lighter cross-onshore wind at 12 mph in the morning, shifting to a gentle onshore in the afternoon. The energy is weak (410-434), but it’s the cleanest the wind has been in weeks. Still, the wave comment says poor. Saturday the 12th has a tiny 2 ft SSW swell with a very long 16-second period, and a fresh cross-shore wind. The energy is weak (396), and with that long period, it’s gonna be a bit slow and straight at a point break.

So, what’s the best? Honestly, the standout is the 4th of September. That 7 ft ENE swell with a 12-second period has the most potential, but the wind is still a problem. It’s a promising but uncertain call. For the rest of the run, it’s a tough stretch of messy, windy conditions. This setup looks more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing on most days.

Rusty, signing off.

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