Irmas/Leftpoint Surf Forecast and Surf Report

Alright folks, Rusty here. Let's have a look at what's on the table for the next couple of weeks. Gotta be straight with you, it’s a pretty rough patch for clean waves.

The outlook kicks off on Monday, September 7th, but honestly, it’s a write-off. The first real mention of surf is at Irmas/Leftpoint, but conditions are just ugly. We get a 6 ft east swell with a long 12-second period, and on paper, that 'ESE' swell direction is ideal for the break. But the wind is howling onshore from the east at 16 mph. The water sits at a warm 81°, which is pretty standard for this time of year, but the ocean is just blown-out, choppy, and messy. The combined wave energy is moderate, coming in at 1755, but it's all wasted energy with that wind. The forecast scores this one a zero.

Tuesday the 8th isn't much better. There's a bigger push of swell Tuesday morning with 8 ft from the SSW, but that's accompanied by a strong southerly cross-onshore wind at 22 mph. It's lumpy and poor. The afternoon cleans up a little with a lighter 12 mph cross-shore breeze and a different swell (6 ft from the ENE), but the forecast still only gives it a low score, calling it marginal.

And from there, it's a grim slide. From Wednesday the 9th all the way through the rest of the 16-day window, the wind is either a moderate to fresh onshore or cross-shore, never turning offshore. Swell sizes bounce around, but the quality never locks in. We see a 3 ft south groundswell on the 9th with a nice 14-second period, but the onshore wind ruins it. The combined energy is moderate at 695-743, but it’s all for nothing.

From the 10th to the 14th, the swell goes short and weak, with periods dropping to just 7-8 seconds and energy readings well under 500. It’s basically a flat spell of junk surf.

The second week has a bit more size but zero quality. By Wednesday the 16th, we get a 6 ft ENE swell, but the wind is a fresh 22 mph cross-shore. Then from Thursday the 17th through the weekend of the 20th, things actually get dangerous. Swell hits 8 ft and the ENE wind cranks up to a strong 25 mph. The combined energy spikes well into the four-digit range (1115-1408), but it's a full-on mess. Windswell with that kind of strength and period around 8 seconds is just brutal, creating lumpy, choppy, and messy conditions. Even for the gnarliest locals, this is a hard pass. It's the kind of setup that’s more interesting for kite surfing than paddle surfing.

So, what’s the standout? There isn't one. There’s no standout day, no single session to point you to. The entire 16-day forecast is a consistent run of poor or marginal conditions. I hate to say it, but you're better off doing something else for the next two weeks. The forecast can change, and sometimes these blanks don't last, but right now there is nothing good on offer.

Rusty.

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